'95 F-150 track ready street beast

[Sbeck09]

andrewb70 has a pretty good write up in his 70 GTO thread. Pages 29 & 34 on that thread have some pictures and info.



Here's the shop info:

Since you have the IRS from the S550 Mustang it should be easy enough to tell them that and your trans type to get you set up. Not the cheapest option, but a good one. Otherwise, I'll ask my dad what shop he used for our cars driveshafts, I can't remember off the top of my head.

Awesome info! Thanks. This was fascinating to read. I had no clue that a CV on the drive shaft would have so many positive effects if setup correctly. I definitely want to find a way to use this to my advantage now. Looking at what he paid for a CF shaft, I suspect getting mine in aluminum would be fairly reasonable. Let me know when you find out who you guys used. I'd like to find a local place to deal with. This is pretty high on my agenda now that the mounts are set.

[Sbeck09]

I owe you all a weekend update as usual.

Nothing huge, but good progress. I will drive this thing before the summer!

First up was focusing on making a trans mount so the drive train could all finally support itself. After deciding not to run the tranny cross member to the frame last week I had to get some more boxing plate in and layout my main X brace for the chassis.



You can see that despite stopping and starting multiple time (super awkward position for me) I am finally getting my neighbor's welder working decent. Still not sold on the inverter tech for heavy stuff, but beggars can't be choosers. Seeing the boxing plate in ended up making the frame just look nicer too. Can't wait to see it all cleaned up and coated!

Got the X all trimmed and positioned. I'm already getting back to being decent at fitting tubes for this so the cage should go smoothly when we get there fairly soon.





Bricks still holding the trans in place but that was about the be no more...



That's some heavy duty steel holding it all up, but I wanted more side support and to also tie into the frame in more places. Plus we all know that triangles are the strongest shape.



Then when I stepped back with the wheels removed I realized that this frame looks pretty wild and wide. And I might have been glowing with a slight bit of pride in my work.



But out back I needed to remove a riveted factory cross member that just sits under the bed, but doesn't bolt to it. It won't be needed and is really kind of in the way. Have I mentioned how much I hate these ridiculously tough rivets?! They are grinding wheel killers! Look closely and you can just see the tail of the trans in there. Driveshaft will only be about 50" total length. Now I just have to find a local shop that I can trust to build me one. Once that is in I can layout the fuel cell mounts. That's right. The fuel cell is going just behind the cab and as low as I can safely mount it with the drive shaft there.



Since you guys are so sharp I'm sure a couple of you are already typing up replies to say that my X is in the way of the drive shaft. Yes, you are correct. I am putting a drive shaft loop there, but it was much easier for me to build it this way to line everything up better. It wasn't really any extra work. I'll just build the loop from 1/4" plate bent into a circle and cut the tubes to weld to the outside. It will make more sense when you see it.

Next task is to redo my upper control arm mounts. I know, real shocker, I have to change something on my front suspension design...again.

[Ddkeeler]

I owe you all a weekend update as usual.

Nothing huge, but good progress. I will drive this thing before the summer!

First up was focusing on making a trans mount so the drive train could all finally support itself. After deciding not to run the tranny cross member to the frame last week I had to get some more boxing plate in and layout my main X brace for the chassis.



You can see that despite stopping and starting multiple time (super awkward position for me) I am finally getting my neighbor's welder working decent. Still not sold on the inverter tech for heavy stuff, but beggars can't be choosers. Seeing the boxing plate in ended up making the frame just look nicer too. Can't wait to see it all cleaned up and coated!

Got the X all trimmed and positioned. I'm already getting back to being decent at fitting tubes for this so the cage should go smoothly when we get there fairly soon.





Bricks still holding the trans in place but that was about the be no more...



That's some heavy duty steel holding it all up, but I wanted more side support and to also tie into the frame in more places. Plus we all know that triangles are the strongest shape.



Then when I stepped back with the wheels removed I realized that this frame looks pretty wild and wide. And I might have been glowing with a slight bit of pride in my work.



But out back I needed to remove a riveted factory cross member that just sits under the bed, but doesn't bolt to it. It won't be needed and is really kind of in the way. Have I mentioned how much I hate these ridiculously tough rivets?! They are grinding wheel killers! Look closely and you can just see the tail of the trans in there. Driveshaft will only be about 50" total length. Now I just have to find a local shop that I can trust to build me one. Once that is in I can layout the fuel cell mounts. That's right. The fuel cell is going just behind the cab and as low as I can safely mount it with the drive shaft there.



Since you guys are so sharp I'm sure a couple of you are already typing up replies to say that my X is in the way of the drive shaft. Yes, you are correct. I am putting a drive shaft loop there, but it was much easier for me to build it this way to line everything up better. It wasn't really any extra work. I'll just build the loop from 1/4" plate bent into a circle and cut the tubes to weld to the outside. It will make more sense when you see it.

Next task is to redo my upper control arm mounts. I know, real shocker, I have to change something on my front suspension design...again.

Dude that rod end had to be super expensive. I’m trying to decide what ball joints to run. What are they?

[NorthFalcon]

After looking at your photo of your current upper control arms, I see a few issues. The biggest one is, if the bolts on the two heim joints come loose on the top of the spindle, the spindle will be able to flop forward and backwards. Another big issue is quick adjustments, currently if you make any one adjustment on either of the swedge tubes on the upper control arm you will effect caster and camber. Just because you have an open canvas, I think you could make better use of that space by going with a more stock car style upper control arm. That way you can quickly shim camber, or use pucks to change camber curve, as well as shim for caster. Something like this. https://pitstopusa.com/i-19425209-ho...RoCYSEQAvD_BwE

[cornfedbill]

After looking at your photo of your current upper control arms, I see a few issues. The biggest one is, if the bolts on the two heim joints come loose on the top of the spindle, the spindle will be able to flop forward and backwards. Another big issue is quick adjustments, currently if you make any one adjustment on either of the swedge tubes on the upper control arm you will effect caster and camber. Just because you have an open canvas, I think you could make better use of that space by going with a more stock car style upper control arm. That way you can quickly shim camber, or use pucks to change camber curve, as well as shim for caster. Something like this. https://pitstopusa.com/i-19425209-ho...RoCYSEQAvD_BwE

That is what I purchased for my upper control arm mounts on the Scope Creep Nova. I ordered them directly from Howe with some slugs for adjustment.

[Ddkeeler]

After looking at your photo of your current upper control arms, I see a few issues. The biggest one is, if the bolts on the two heim joints come loose on the top of the spindle, the spindle will be able to flop forward and backwards. Another big issue is quick adjustments, currently if you make any one adjustment on either of the swedge tubes on the upper control arm you will effect caster and camber. Just because you have an open canvas, I think you could make better use of that space by going with a more stock car style upper control arm. That way you can quickly shim camber, or use pucks to change camber curve, as well as shim for caster. Something like this. https://pitstopusa.com/i-19425209-ho...RoCYSEQAvD_BwE

When designing a suspension with those type of control arms, should a certain degree of camber or caster be designed into them? Or should they be left as close to 0 as possible err on the side of more caster and less camber?

Am I over thinking this?

[Sbeck09]

For some reason I have never seen the Racepak products. I have been looking into Hallteck but now going to dig deeper into Racepak now also. Thank you.
Your truck is looking good!

Glad to present a new brand then. They are owned by Holley, but seem to function pretty independently. If you are looking at PDMs in general I would HIGHLY recommend http://www.rywire.com/category-s/1930.htm to educate and see even more options. I specifically was going to run the Moristech P30 with Racegrade keypad which is literally half the cost, but you have to be more fluent in OpenCAN language. Even then, I wasn't guaranteed to be able to get it talking with my Dominator. So that's why I did what I did. All of these systems are really freaking cool and will become a staple of any future builds I do.

Dude that rod end had to be super expensive. I’m trying to decide what ball joints to run. What are they?

Ready to be surprised? https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/R1898.html is where I get them all. While it's not quite as high quality as maybe an FK or QA1, the bang for the buck is undeniable. RuffStuff has been amazing to deal with decent prices. My "ball joints" are actually 1" uniballs like you commonly find on an off-road truck. The idea was they are incredibly strong, easy to fabricate with, and a breeze to service. If you are building from scratch it is worth a consideration. But know that a ball joint seats more solid with it's tapered shaft. I would say to evaluate based on what spindle you use. I had no off-the-shelf options.

When designing a suspension with those type of control arms, should a certain degree of camber or caster be designed into them? Or should they be left as close to 0 as possible err on the side of more caster and less camber?

Am I over thinking this?

Don't worry, this entire project is an exercise in how much I can overthink stuff. Haha. I set everything right in the middle of the adjustment range I wanted. That way I could tune more or less from my base settings. That would be where you'd need to decide what you want your starting or "base" settings to be. But to be fair, I'm cutting these arms off in favor of a more simplified setup. Check back after this weekend and I'll have some pics up.

[Ddkeeler]

Glad to present a new brand then. They are owned by Holley, but seem to function pretty independently. If you are looking at PDMs in general I would HIGHLY recommend http://www.rywire.com/category-s/1930.htm to educate and see even more options. I specifically was going to run the Moristech P30 with Racegrade keypad which is literally half the cost, but you have to be more fluent in OpenCAN language. Even then, I wasn't guaranteed to be able to get it talking with my Dominator. So that's why I did what I did. All of these systems are really freaking cool and will become a staple of any future builds I do.



Ready to be surprised? https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/R1898.html is where I get them all. While it's not quite as high quality as maybe an FK or QA1, the bang for the buck is undeniable. RuffStuff has been amazing to deal with decent prices. My "ball joints" are actually 1" uniballs like you commonly find on an off-road truck. The idea was they are incredibly strong, easy to fabricate with, and a breeze to service. If you are building from scratch it is worth a consideration. But know that a ball joint seats more solid with it's tapered shaft. I would say to evaluate based on what spindle you use. I had no off-the-shelf options.



Don't worry, this entire project is an exercise in how much I can overthink stuff. Haha. I set everything right in the middle of the adjustment range I wanted. That way I could tune more or less from my base settings. That would be where you'd need to decide what you want your starting or "base" settings to be. But to be fair, I'm cutting these arms off in favor of a more simplified setup. Check back after this weekend and I'll have some pics up.

Is how you mounted the uniball technically in single sheer? I’m just curious, because I thought about doing something similar, but saw that it is recommended to run the the joint between two mounts in case a heim joint fails.

[Sbeck09]

Is how you mounted the uniball technically in single sheer? I’m just curious, because I thought about doing something similar, but saw that it is recommended to run the the joint between two mounts in case a heim joint fails.

Yeah you are kinda right. And with a standard heim joint I'd always go double sheer. I've seen these uniballs put on way heavier vehicles in way harsher environments so I don't really sweat it in this case. Uniballs are designed to take significantly higher loads than a normal heim joint.

Exhibit A:



Camburg has A LOT on the line if this fails. Yet you can clearly see they use it to directly replace the upper ball joint of a current production F150 that is expected to be used off road.

Exhibit B:



FJ Cruiser lower control arm from a different reputable company. You can plainly see it setup in single sheer. My mind says those are both way harsher scenarios. But if you know different or better, please say so now. I haven't figured out how to mount my lower in double sheer or it would already be done.

[RMMiller]

That truck is going to be awesome, hands down the best body style for the F150! Thanks for the motor mounts, I am ordering a set for my Maverick build so I don't have to worry about the stock style failing on me.

[Sbeck09]

After looking at your photo of your current upper control arms, I see a few issues. The biggest one is, if the bolts on the two heim joints come loose on the top of the spindle, the spindle will be able to flop forward and backwards. Another big issue is quick adjustments, currently if you make any one adjustment on either of the swedge tubes on the upper control arm you will effect caster and camber. Just because you have an open canvas, I think you could make better use of that space by going with a more stock car style upper control arm. That way you can quickly shim camber, or use pucks to change camber curve, as well as shim for caster. Something like this. https://pitstopusa.com/i-19425209-ho...RoCYSEQAvD_BwE

Thanks for the tips. I mainly liked that I could rapidly alter camber and/or caster by picking this design. Now I'm starting to wonder though. I like that bracket you linked since I can get off the shelf shims which would keep adjustments consistent from side to side. And to clarify, the two bolt design on the outside is not permanent. That would never work as it just folds up on itself. I have a solid thread to weld in one side just like the SPC arms all use.

Any tips on making those style of arms? Maybe I could design it to still work with inner heims for fine tuning initially, but let the shims be my track side adjustment. Then my lower arms would be my primary caster adjustment. You've got the gears turning...

That truck is going to be awesome, hands down the best body style for the F150! Thanks for the motor mounts, I am ordering a set for my Maverick build so I don't have to worry about the stock style failing on me.

Glad you like it and that the info helps. Stock mounts are way too soft even when new. I actually have wanted to build a Maverick for a while so I'm envious you are doing it.

[Sbeck09]

Thought I should update on what's going on. It's been a bit of a waiting game, but for good reasons. Plus I was distracted by the Good Guys spring nationals happening in my backyard last weekend so of course I was there to steal ideas and get inspired!

Against my better financial judgement, I picked the Racepak Smartwire Street kit for the chassis wiring. I've mentioned before that I really wanted to run a solid state PDM and this certainly covers that. Definitely not the cheapest option in that realm, but this is guaranteed to work with my Holley Dominator so that's what made me go this route.





I also want to give Woodward Steering a BIG thank you for dealing with a FedEx failure. I caved about a month ago and ordered a steering column kit from them. Somehow it was delivered, but I never saw a thing. They shipped an entire replacement out within 24 hours of me notifying them and while they had a blizzard. Genuinely nice people and I'd use them again in a heartbeat. They aren't a sponsor, just really happy with my treatment.



I can't wait to see that installed!

I want to thank NorthFalcon for pointing out an upper control arm solution that I wasn't aware I could get DIY parts for. Thanks to you and my incessant overthinking, I have a batch of parts due for delivery this Friday. I think you guys are gonna like it. That's this weekend's goal: finish that damn front suspension setup!

Wallace MFG thanks for the tip on the CV type driveshaft. I am in the process of getting a custom one ordered. They are about 4 weeks out.

Things are heating up boys!

[Project Bike Truck]

Thought I should update on what's going on. It's been a bit of a waiting game, but for good reasons. Plus I was distracted by the Good Guys spring nationals happening in my backyard last weekend so of course I was there to steal ideas and get inspired!

Against my better financial judgement, I picked the Racepak Smartwire Street kit for the chassis wiring. I've mentioned before that I really wanted to run a solid state PDM and this certainly covers that. Definitely not the cheapest option in that realm, but this is guaranteed to work with my Holley Dominator so that's what made me go this route.





I also want to give Woodward Steering a BIG thank you for dealing with a FedEx failure. I caved about a month ago and ordered a steering column kit from them. Somehow it was delivered, but I never saw a thing. They shipped an entire replacement out within 24 hours of me notifying them and while they had a blizzard. Genuinely nice people and I'd use them again in a heartbeat. They aren't a sponsor, just really happy with my treatment.



I can't wait to see that installed!

I want to thank NorthFalcon for pointing out an upper control arm solution that I wasn't aware I could get DIY parts for. Thanks to you and my incessant overthinking, I have a batch of parts due for delivery this Friday. I think you guys are gonna like it. That's this weekend's goal: finish that damn front suspension setup!

Wallace MFG thanks for the tip on the CV type driveshaft. I am in the process of getting a custom one ordered. They are about 4 weeks out.

Things are heating up boys!

Tell me more about the driveshaft? Congrats on buying the good stuff. It's well worth it.

[Sbeck09]

Tell me more about the driveshaft? Congrats on buying the good stuff. It's well worth it.

I can't stand electrical issues so when there is a way to eliminate potential issues I am all over it.

I had to work with Driveshaft Shop for a custom length setup. I was really hoping to find a local company, but they either couldn't/wouldn't source the CV end or more often just didn't have a clue about power levels vs material type. That concerned me greatly. So far my communication with Driveshaft Shop has been flawless and clear. I'm hoping to have my order completed in the next day or two depending on them.

[lightningcow]

To remove the rivets, center punch and drill through the head with a 1/2" drill. Then, punch the rest through the hole. I used this method on my '93 F-150 while building my crown vic ifs/3-link rear setup.

[Sbeck09]

To remove the rivets, center punch and drill through the head with a 1/2" drill. Then, punch the rest through the hole. I used this method on my '93 F-150 while building my crown vic ifs/3-link rear setup.

Interesting idea for making less mess. How many drill bits did you ruin during that project? Also, how did you like the handling after all that work?

[lightningcow]

The bit was fine as I recall, but I can re-sharpen a good drill. I seem to remember the rivets being soft, so they would eat up a grinding wheel for sure.

The truck is still a skateboard...paint and body next and then maybe I can start putting it together. Simple 351w with heads and probably a fitech controlled port injection setup, it's always been a manual...from the mazda 5-speed behind the 300 i6 to the 351w with T5 that I broke twice before switching to the tko-600. Maybe this will be the year!

[Sbeck09]

Yeah I'm burning up grinding wheels pretty fast even using an air chisel to help. I still have probably 20+ rivets to go.

Let me know if you are sharing build progress anywhere. I'd love to follow along. You are only the 4th person (including me) that I have seen changing out the entire suspension under this generation for street use.

[WallaceMFG]

Cut an "X" in the head of the rivet with a cut off wheel, then use the air chisel to knock the rest off. Gets the job done pretty well.

[Jaymzz]

For some reason I have never seen the Racepak products. I have been looking into Hallteck but now going to dig deeper into Racepak now also. Thank you.
Your truck is looking good!