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    Results 1 to 7 of 7
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Feb 2013
      Location
      South Carolina
      Posts
      935
      Country Flag: United States

      Screwed up with my 12 bolt order

      Was buttoning everything back up Saturday afternoon with the new rear axle, brakes were bled, all the bolts re-checked and torqued, exhaust cleared like it should.

      Then I went to bolt up the drive shaft. I ordered a rear end with a 1310 u-joint and already had a driveshaft and prior rear end with a 1350. Crap.

      I know I have 3 options:
      Install the conversion u-joint (safest for all the other parts although this is a 500 hp car)
      Install the 1350 yoke using the shade tree method (this worries me)
      Have someone else install the 1350 yoke with a new crush sleeve and pinion depth check (I really don't want to do this at the moment)

      Thoughts?

      Having made the mistake it the first place is kind of a bummer.



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Jun 2010
      Location
      Deployed
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      3,377
      Country Flag: United States
      Oh wow....how in the heck! So take this for what it’s worth...a member on Nastyz28 named Freddie aka biggearhead will tell you it’s ok to remove the nut and swap the yoke. There is a torque spec he recommends. Here’s the thing the crush sleeve is already set. As long as you don’t go tighter your ok, so the trick is to tighten the nut to a spec but not increase the pre-load. Hit him up.
      1970 Camaro/DSE build


      Are you driver enough? Maybe....come on blue!
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...71#post1147371

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Jun 2010
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      Deployed
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      3,377
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      1970 Camaro/DSE build


      Are you driver enough? Maybe....come on blue!
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...71#post1147371

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Feb 2013
      Location
      South Carolina
      Posts
      935
      Country Flag: United States
      Moser solved my problem for me. I called tech support and was told they build with a solid shim set. Zero risk - all I have to do is change the yoke and setup is not affected.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jun 2010
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      Is that common for them in all their rearends?
      1970 Camaro/DSE build


      Are you driver enough? Maybe....come on blue!
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...71#post1147371

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Feb 2013
      Location
      South Carolina
      Posts
      935
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by badazz81z28 View Post
      Is that common for them in all their rearends?
      I can only speak to their 12 bolt. All of those are solid shim sets. If its a burning question, they've been pretty good about being available on the phone.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      Central CA USA
      Posts
      6,114
      Country Flag: United States
      Put a dab of sealer on the splines before installing the new yoke and a dab of grease where the seal runs.

      If it had a crush sleeve, I'd mark the nut relative to the shaft, back it off and measure how much torque to line the nut back up with the mark, then you know how much torque to give the new yoke. I'd put some loctite on the threads if reusing the nut.
      67 Camaro RS that will be faster than anything Mary owns.




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