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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jun 2016
      Posts
      69

      Replacement Alternator - BBC

      Team,

      My alternator is not properly charging and I am looking to replace it? Currently it is a what appears to be incorrect 3 wire setup.



      My questions for you:
      1. Is there a good advantage to converting to a one wire vs a three?
      2. How many amps do you recommend? BBC, MSD Billet Ignition, A/C, HID lights, wanting to add stereo with amps and power windows/locks


      Thanks for the recommendations.


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Mar 2004
      Location
      Mid-Michigan
      Posts
      2,764
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by mtm87tx View Post
      Team,

      My alternator is not properly charging and I am looking to replace it? Currently it is a what appears to be incorrect 3 wire setup.

      My questions for you:
      1. Is there a good advantage to converting to a one wire vs a three?
      2. How many amps do you recommend? BBC, MSD Billet Ignition, A/C, HID lights, wanting to add stereo with amps and power windows/locks


      Thanks for the recommendations.

      No advantage going to a 1 wire. The 3 wire set-up uses a sense wire which connects to the main distribution block to "sense" how much current is going thru the block. This tells the alternator how much current to produce. Every time you turn on accessory the current demand goes up. Without this sense wire the alternator only sees higher current demand then what the battery is charged to. GM's 3 wire system works well and there is no valid reason to change from it.
      1 wire alternators are used on vehicles like tractors and stationary pumps, where there are no accessories, to simply keep the battery charged.

      You need to add up all of your accessories draw numbers to come up with a real number. Different units/manufacturers pull varying amounts of amps.
      Mark

      If you want to learn more about the 3 wire/ 1 wire debate go here:
      http://madelectrical.com/electricalt...hreewire.shtml
      Lots to read and learn here so bookmark it and read at your leisure.
      Mark:
      "Bad Ast" Astro Van. Just because I did it... Doesn't mean it's possible...
      This my Bad Ast thread...
      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...roject-Faze-II
      This is my Fotki album...
      http://astroracer.fotki.com/

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Southern Indiana
      Posts
      4,709
      Country Flag: United States
      Napa number 1N4605G, its new. 1N4523DHO. Second one is even higher amp unit, AND I recommend adding an 8ga charge wire in place of factory 10ga. OR MAY have to use drill bit to ream mounting hole but not much. some already fit bbc lower bolt. on plug use large wire looped to battery terminal.
      use either EC268 4 wire or 787128 from napa. on the one with 2 wire the open port, if I remember correctly, would go for a tach signal.
      I also have diagram attached, the critical wire is the 12 turn on from idiot light (if regulator sense no output that line goes to ground and turns on light. Forget older car colors off hand, been sorting Ford wiring lately and memory is all on ford crap wiring. I ran the AC Delco version on my BBC and sbc from 94 through 06 or 07. Still got it waiting to get it rebuilt or traded in.
      Pushed car, electric fans, stereo, etc easily. AND can be had at most parts stores.
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      Lee Abel
      AFTERMARKET PERFORMANCE

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    4. #4
      Join Date
      Jun 2016
      Posts
      69
      Ok just a quick update on this, found out the alternator I have is a PowerMaster 140AMP. I had it tested and both the diode and power regulator were bad so I replaced these. After additional inspection I noticed my charge wire was a 16ga so I changed this to a 4ga (wire I had)

      Question still, with a test 140AMPs out and the battery at 14.5v idling with no A/C when I turn this item on (fan and compressor clutch) I am dropping below 13v still.

      Any thoughts?




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