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    Results 1 to 20 of 36
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Feb 2017
      Posts
      99

      1976 Trans Am Pro-Touring Build

      Hello,

      Car: 1976 Trans Am 400 / 4-Speed Car / 38,000 original miles

      I'm in the process of building up my '76 T/A. Much of the work on the car has already been completed and I'm making this thread midst the second phase of the build. I'll do my best now to run down it's current state, what has been completed already, what's on the chopping block within the next few months and what's to come down the road.

      Current State (as of Feb 2017) -
      Quadralink Ladder Bar Rear Suspension
      Double Adjustable Rear Coil Overs
      Adjustable Panhard Bar
      Generic Mini Tub Kit
      8 point roll cage
      Strange 9 inch
      Rear draglite disk brakes from Strange

      Up next (2017+) -

      1) Detroit Speed Engineering Front Sub Frame - Hydroformed and Powder Coated / LS Series:
      http://www.detroitspeed.com/1970-1981-F-Body-products/032011-hydroformed-subframe.html

      2) Pro-Touring F-Body Solid body mounts:
      http://www.pro-touringf-body.com/chassis_components.html

      3) Detroit Speed Engineering Weld in Sub Frame Connectors:
      http://www.detroitspeed.com/1970-1981-F-Body-products/010103-subframe-connectors.html

      4) EFI Tank and In-Tank Pump from Tanks Inc. (650+ HP)

      5) Detroit Speed LS7 Engine mounts

      6) Detroit Speed Firewall Fill Panel

      7) Cut new Transmission Tunnel for Transzilla T56 / Use Holley T56 conversion Hump Panel

      8) Media Blasting undercarriage, interior pans, and trunk pans

      9) Putting undercarriage, interior pans, and trunk pans in primer

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Sep 2005
      Location
      Chit-ca-go
      Posts
      472
      Welcome!
      1971 Firebird
      2017 Slipstream SS

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Apr 2015
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      165
      Country Flag: United States
      I'm wrenching on our families 74'. Looking forward to seeing pics of this one.

      CAM-T Autocross Fox Mustang
      LX mustang autocross on the "cheap"...
      1953 PickEmUp
      1953 Chev Pickemup


    4. #4
      Join Date
      Oct 2013
      Location
      H-Town, TX
      Posts
      356
      Country Flag: United States
      Yes we need pics!

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Feb 2017
      Posts
      99
      Photos of the floor pans being modified to make room for the ladder bars sometime in 2008



      Strange Rear End getting hung:




      Trac bar/Rear End/Exhaust tucked:



      Rear seats and pans being modified:





      Mini tub install:

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Feb 2017
      Posts
      99
      These are the photos after the work of 2008 was finished -

      Trunk Finished:


      Interior Finished:






      Wrapped up:



    7. #7
      Join Date
      Feb 2017
      Posts
      99
      Decided to pick up the LS series engine mounts from Detroit Speed now instead of waiting for later. My builder has an LS1 laying around with a t56. While I have the interior ripped apart we're going to mock of a dummy t56 and cut the tunnel now rather than later.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Nov 2010
      Location
      orlando fl
      Posts
      419
      Looks so mean...love the color combo!

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Feb 2017
      Posts
      99
      This car is never going to be a world beater. With that I opted to steer clear from an ugly fuel cell and opted for a Tank Inc. tank. I also picked up there GPA-6 EFI pump (750-1000hp), sending unit, all mounting hardware, straps, strap pads. The pump is sump mounted.

      Everything out the door was roughly $650.00 shipped.

      The Easter Bunny came early this year:





      http://www.tanksinc.com/

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Feb 2017
      Posts
      99
      Typically solid body mounts are required when installing sub frame connectors. This is because poly or rubber mounts allow too much flex which can result in the welds between that of your sub frame to connector to sub frame weakening/or breaking completely.


      I was going to order a set of body mounts from Detroit Speed but they only produce them for 2nd gen Camaros and not Firebirds. This is because the core support mounts are taller on the Firebird versus that of the Camaro (to make space for the shaker scoop on the T/A) so I went with the only other option which are from pro-touring f body (http://www.pro-touringf-body.com/cha...omponents.html).


      They're pretty cool. They can be mounted at factory height to maintain stock appearance, adjusted to lower the body by a full inch or flipped to lower the body by a full 2 inches...essentially wedging the body. This will cause clearance issues with the inner fender walls and shaker scoop clearance (but I'm going EFI LS7 eventually so I'll have to rig something up when the time comes anyway) so I will likely go factory height or only lower the body by an inch. I am going to call D.S.E. before I decide. They are made of aluminum but I'll likely paint them black.


      They were $99 shipped, with the bolts included:


    11. #11
      Join Date
      Feb 2017
      Posts
      99
      In order to lower my expenses as much as possible I removed the hood, fenders, inner fenders, core support, bumper, bumper braces, upper headlight/grille assembly, wheel spoilers and lower spoiler myself. I've been storing the parts in a spare bedroom for safe keeping.

      My girlfriend loves this:



      These are the factory seats. They have never been re-upholstered.

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Feb 2017
      Posts
      99
      Last night I got around to removing the seats, the center console and lower back seats. I still have to remove the kick panels, carpet, seat belts and rear deck/speakers (I think).

      I may be able to keep the upper back seats in place. That would allow me to keep the speakers and rear deck in place too. However I was never happy with the way the rear deck came out. I know it must have been a pain with the roll cage there but I'm just not happy with it. I may look in to getting that replaced/re-done down the road.

      To clarify, I'm removing the carpet because the sub frame connectors from Detroit Speed are welded in to the floor pans, from both the bottom and inside of the car; so the carpet needs to come out. I'm also getting a t56 tunnel cut so the carpet has to be removed for that as well.

      I plan on keeping the interior out for a while even after I get the car back. I'd like to prep and paint the inside of those pans myself before the carpet gets laid back in. I'd also like to find another interior guy to lay the carpet again. As you can see from the photos below; the carpet was a custom job the last time the carpet was done. It was glued down so I'm assuming it's going to get trashed when I get around to removing it this weekend.





      So much room for activities now:

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,996
      Country Flag: United States
      Nice build. Looks like you are going to have a pretty nasty setup there with that parts list. I miss my pro-touring 76...


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD
      Follow me on Instagram: ryeguy2006a

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Feb 2017
      Posts
      99
      Spoke with D.S.E. today and was notified that my frame is in mid assembly at the moment. They will be calling me one week before it is shipped to my builder. It ships freight so it will likely take 4 business days to get from N.C. to N.Y. It's being shipped with the sub frame connectors too.

      I'm planning on getting the car to the builder one week before the frame gets there so the shop can drop the factory frame, motor, trans, driveshaft, rear suspension, all brakes, tank, and everything else under there, sand blast and/or wire brush what they can reach, prep, paint and POR15 the entire under side of the car.

      They can then hopefully get the tank mounted and have everything ready for the new frame.

      With that I have from now until mid April to get everything else off of the firewall, all wires labeled and accounted for, remove the rest of the interior and that's pretty much it.

      It's still pretty crappy outside in N.Y. so it's a pretty miserable experience doing anything in the garage.

      I was able to talk to a buddy's father who has a heated and de-humidified garage. Once I get the carcass back from the shop I'll be storing it there. Pretty excited about that.

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Feb 2017
      Posts
      99
      Quote Originally Posted by ryeguy2006a View Post
      Nice build. Looks like you are going to have a pretty nasty setup there with that parts list. I miss my pro-touring 76...
      One thing I'm worried about is that front lower spoiler and front wheel flares. I'm concerned that after hard braking, turning and 120+ mph pulls those wheel flares are going to separate off of the fender. I'm also worried that the front lower spoiler will crack.

      I don't know. Just speaking out loud; but did you ever run in to these issues? Maybe I'll try to rig up a Challenger T/A inspired sheet metal lower spoiler to replace the factory one.

      The factory one is weak and trashy anyway.

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,996
      Country Flag: United States
      Hey 76,

      Let's just say I was in that MPH range, and I didn't have any issues with my spoilers coming loose. If you are really worried about them, you could always add some metal reinforcements behind the spoilers to tighten them down more securely.

      Maybe I missed it, but what are you running for a motor and transmission? Is that the LS1 your builder has? If so, have you thought about how you are going to attach your shaker?


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD
      Follow me on Instagram: ryeguy2006a

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Feb 2017
      Posts
      99
      Motor and trans. are way down the line. I just can't afford it right now.

      I'm planning on picking up a Mast 427 (Ls7). It's a dry sumped supercharged motor w/ an aluminum Dart block (supposedly 760 crank hp and upwards of 610 ft. lbs.). It'll be matted with a built t56 I have laying around which is good for 900 crank hp.

      I'm just using the Ls1 to pull measurements for the t56 tunnel.

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Feb 2017
      Posts
      99
      Quote Originally Posted by ryeguy2006a View Post
      Hey 76,

      Let's just say I was in that MPH range, and I didn't have any issues with my spoilers coming loose. If you are really worried about them, you could always add some metal reinforcements behind the spoilers to tighten them down more securely.

      Maybe I missed it, but what are you running for a motor and transmission? Is that the LS1 your builder has? If so, have you thought about how you are going to attach your shaker?
      As for the shaker struggle: I have absolutely no idea haha. I'll likely buy some foam and shape up exactly what I need and make a mold in the form of a base and then find a welder to run off of the valve covers? I'll figure it out. But I'm keeping that damn thing shaking.

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Mar 2007
      Location
      Florida
      Posts
      2,391
      Country Flag: United States
      I've never had issues with the wheel flares but the center section of my '70 front spoiler flexed at high speeds (over 130 MPH) on track often enough to crack the paint. Different center section than yours though so YMMV. Yes, I'm adding supports to mine during the rebuild.

    20. #20
      Join Date
      Jun 2014
      Location
      Highland Village, TX
      Posts
      104
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 76TA View Post
      As for the shaker struggle: I have absolutely no idea haha. I'll likely buy some foam and shape up exactly what I need and make a mold in the form of a base and then find a welder to run off of the valve covers? I'll figure it out. But I'm keeping that damn thing shaking.
      Might check with Chichirone on IG...He may be on here as well...Jay Deluca...His klrbrd has an LS and the Shaker is Functional...
      Ron -
      1970 Mach1
      440 RWHP, 428 RWTQ
      Calypso Coral, 357W, T5Z 5-speed,
      Edelbrock 454 17x8 Wheels, 255x40x17 rear, 215x45x17 front, Bridgestone Potenza RE-71, TCP Coilovers Front, Global West Del-A-Lum Bushings,Global West Adj. Strut Rods, Wilwood Discs All around

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