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    Results 1 to 5 of 5
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jun 2012
      Posts
      11
      Country Flag: Australia

      Boosted or non boosted

      Hey all

      I know this question goes around alot and I've been researching this and it's starting to do my head in. As I'm trying to get info in Australia, there aren't any Wilwood reps here or enough people who have done the conversion. (when I say 'enough' not as much as the US).

      I am running a wilwood 1"bore master cylinder, 12.19" rotors with Wilwood 4 piston Dynapro Dust Boot callipers all round. (http://www.wilwood.com/Search/PartNo...px?q=120-11481)

      I want to know whether this manual setup, will give me a good responsive feel, that I could lock the front wheels (or close too) if I so intended. If not, how should I boost it if running a stock ZZ502 with average vacuum. If it doesn't come close to my Subaru, then I will ditch the master cylinder for a hydraboost setup as I fear the 1" bore the hyraullic assist may put me through the windscreen. I don't like them 'grabby' brakes. I want a good feel - the more pressure, the more you stop, without cramping your leg.



      Any help on this would be much appreciated.

      Cheers!


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      Orange County, CA
      Posts
      675
      My guess is that a 1" master is too large for those calipers, causing too hard of a pedal. You can either add a booster, or stay with manual brakes and reduce the size of the master cylinder bore. By using a smaller bore master you will increase clamping force and have a better pedal "feel" and be able to modulate the brakes better without being too "grabby".

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Aug 2015
      Location
      charlotte
      Posts
      929
      Country Flag: United States
      This doesn't help you now but I'm working on something to link Australia and the US in the Pro-touring Industry, at least to make parts more available or at least more known and we'll be able to assist with direct communication between all the top-end brands.
      It was a huge eye opener when I arrived in the states 18 months ago, I really hope we can grow a similar industry in AUS to at least a fraction of what it's like here in the states.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Jun 2012
      Posts
      11
      Country Flag: Australia
      Quote Originally Posted by slimjim View Post
      This doesn't help you now but I'm working on something to link Australia and the US in the Pro-touring Industry, at least to make parts more available or at least more known and we'll be able to assist with direct communication between all the top-end brands.
      It was a huge eye opener when I arrived in the states 18 months ago, I really hope we can grow a similar industry in AUS to at least a fraction of what it's like here in the states.
      Sounds good Jim. Yeah, I have found it difficult to find anyone here who is catching up with the times ;)

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jun 2012
      Posts
      11
      Country Flag: Australia
      Quote Originally Posted by 65 drop top View Post
      My guess is that a 1" master is too large for those calipers, causing too hard of a pedal. You can either add a booster, or stay with manual brakes and reduce the size of the master cylinder bore. By using a smaller bore master you will increase clamping force and have a better pedal "feel" and be able to modulate the brakes better without being too "grabby".
      Thanks, and yes. Research tells me that a 7/8 will give me a better feel, but without trying, I guess I wont know. As well as, I think it would come down to preference. The thing for me is cost as well, Everything costs more here and things to consider are correct length of brake lines without having to change them if the setup is wrong, swapping masters, etc. I guess 1" master with booster and vacuum pump if the engine doesn't pull enough vacuum. Not sure if that would be good for hard braking though and how many 'pushes' of the pedal that will give me before I run out of vacuum. There are so many variables. The best thing to find is if somebody has tried with similar setup to mine (callipers, rotor size). That will give me more proof.




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