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    Results 1 to 15 of 15
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Apr 2009
      Location
      wayne nj
      Posts
      42
      Country Flag: United States

      C5 booster swap into 72 cutlass

      I searched for the answer but didn't find anything specific to the booster install in regards to the brake rod. The factory dual 9" booster rod has a one piece rod with an loop built in does this just measure up an go right in? I'm using a RH drive s10 master cylinder and I understand I will need to get some reduced angle booster brackets from summit. Is there anything else I'm missing? All help appreciated. Thanks Mike.



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Dec 2008
      Location
      Detroit
      Posts
      2,664
      Country Flag: United States
      You will need to cut the rod to length and thread it to install a clevis and pin. The loop has nothing hold it to the pedal and the rod is too long.
      Big dreams, small pockets....

      Chris--
      '72 Cutlass S LSA/T56 Magnum
      Bowler Performance, Forgeline, Speedtech, ATS, Speartech, KORE3, Ridetech coilovers

      Project Motor City Madness

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Oct 2015
      Posts
      51
      Country Flag: United States

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Oct 2009
      Location
      Amherst, OH
      Posts
      524
      Country Flag: United States
      Do some test fit runs before anything, you might be pleasantly surprised!

      I just did the C5 master/booster swap in my '68 Firebird. On the instruction of some threads on here, I chopped the loop off the end, threaded it, and installed the factory clevis in the top hole on the brake pedal, the hole for manual brakes.



      After finding out I had a bad booster, I was test fitting the new one, and discovered the C5 rod would work, without modification, in the lower hole meant for power brakes. So, that saved me some time and effort!
      Josh

      1968 Firebird project thread - https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...41#post1180941

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Apr 2009
      Location
      wayne nj
      Posts
      42
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks for the input guys! This is one reason why this site is the best:D

      Josue, so your saying with the booster brackets and utilizing the factory C5 rod this is almost a bolt in mod?

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Oct 2009
      Location
      Amherst, OH
      Posts
      524
      Country Flag: United States
      On my F-body, yes, it was 100% bolt in...no modification necessary! I've got awesome stopping power, and the pedal feel is great, so I've got no complaints! Not sure if it will be the same on your Cutlass, but I would certainly do some dry runs before modifying anything just to be sure.

      I had a manual drum setup from the factory, so I had to get booster brackets as well. I used these...

      http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-760132-blk

      ...and I used a few nuts on the top 2 studs for spacers, put the booster pretty much level to the ground. I can't stand that old school setup where the thing is shooting up into the air for whatever reason?? haha




      Josh

      1968 Firebird project thread - https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...41#post1180941

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Apr 2009
      Location
      wayne nj
      Posts
      42
      Country Flag: United States

      C5 booster swap into 72 cutlass

      I ordered my parts. I'll let everyone know how it's goes. Thanks to Josue for the push. P.S nicely done on your install! I hope this helps people with this conversion.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Oct 2009
      Location
      Amherst, OH
      Posts
      524
      Country Flag: United States
      That's what these forums are for! Can't wait to see how yours goes!
      Josh

      1968 Firebird project thread - https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...41#post1180941

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Mar 2015
      Location
      Phx,AZ
      Posts
      25
      Country Flag: United States
      Now I will have to search for parts as well! Keep us posted.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Apr 2009
      Location
      wayne nj
      Posts
      42
      Country Flag: United States
      C5 booster install
      Attached Images Attached Images        

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Apr 2009
      Location
      wayne nj
      Posts
      42
      Country Flag: United States

      C5 booster swap into 72 cutlass

      Well it's done. Pretty straightforward. Total investment 62.00 dollars. Looks and performs perfect. There is some fab required but not to time consuming.

      First you will need to reuse your existing Clevis and hardware off your power booster and cut the c5 rod right at the rod end. Then thread the rod about 2 inches down..and install the nut and Clevis. Then get 8 nuts and 8 lock washers, and install the booster brackets on the firewall. . What I needed to do was install 4 lock washers and 4 nuts on the c5 booster to create a gap between the booster and brackets for clearance issues. Then install the booster on the car and find a level spot on my brake pedal . Drill and attach the rod.

      I found the rod was best suited right in between the power booster hole and the manual brake hole. In this spot I found no binding between the pedal and booster and pedal feel is good. I will post pics once I figure out how to do it from my phone. Thanks again to everyone for their help.

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Dec 2008
      Location
      Detroit
      Posts
      2,664
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by lt1cutlass View Post
      Well it's done. Pretty straightforward. Total investment 62.00 dollars. Looks and performs perfect. There is some fab required but not to time consuming.

      First you will need to reuse your existing Clevis and hardware off your power booster and cut the c5 rod right at the rod end. Then thread the rod about 2 inches down..and install the nut and Clevis. Then get 8 nuts and 8 lock washers, and install the booster brackets on the firewall. . What I needed to do was install 4 lock washers and 4 nuts on the c5 booster to create a gap between the booster and brackets for clearance issues. Then install the booster on the car and find a level spot on my brake pedal . Drill and attach the rod.

      I found the rod was best suited right in between the power booster hole and the manual brake hole. In this spot I found no binding between the pedal and booster and pedal feel is good. I will post pics once I figure out how to do it from my phone. Thanks again to everyone for their help.
      I used the DSE bracket because the Summit one did not have adequate spacing when I did my first fitting.
      Big dreams, small pockets....

      Chris--
      '72 Cutlass S LSA/T56 Magnum
      Bowler Performance, Forgeline, Speedtech, ATS, Speartech, KORE3, Ridetech coilovers

      Project Motor City Madness

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Apr 2009
      Location
      wayne nj
      Posts
      42
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks to your tip I went in knowing I may have to mod the booster rod. So thanks for the heads up.

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Oct 2009
      Location
      Amherst, OH
      Posts
      524
      Country Flag: United States
      Nice job!! Looks like it was made for there!
      Josh

      1968 Firebird project thread - https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...41#post1180941

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Apr 2009
      Location
      wayne nj
      Posts
      42
      Country Flag: United States

      This is where I got my booster.

      97-12 Corvette C5 and C6 Power Brake Booster

      Item Ends: Jun 15, 2016, 10:49:18 AM
      Attached Images Attached Images  




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