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    Results 1 to 3 of 3
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Mar 2015
      Posts
      25
      Country Flag: United States

      58 gmc front suspension help

      I just picked up my grandfathers 58 gmc 1 ton dump truck. I am on the hunt for a stock short bed frame. I need help deciding on a IFS setup. I dont want to Clip the frame. I am debating between the flat out engineering front cross member and no limit engineering. I dont plan on making this a racing only truck but i want it to handle well because i do want to get into the sport hopefully one day soon with this truck.

      plan on going with a twin turbo lq4 with a t56 magnum. (havent decided on a rear but will probably do the ford 9)

      flat out - price is a lot better than the alternative and parts are easier to obtain through any auto part store (no limit may use parts i can easily obtain as well). I am not sure how well the corvette suspension will handle with the truck as no one i know owns one of these trucks. I have ridden in plenty of c4 vettes and they do handle very well. i am not sure if they make crossmembers to use the c5-c7 vette suspensions or how different they are from the c4. i would plan on using the later version of the c4 if i went this route.

      No Limit - not much to say. everyone who uses them loves them. Price is almost double when all is said and done but has the results to back up the price tag.

      Scotts, heidts,porter all make great pieces as well and if i choose to go the no limit route im sure i will research all of them again.



      Not sure with my being as novice as i am will notice a difference. it will be mainly a street truck that i would like to take to some events when its complete.

      not sure how the stance is on either. I plan on coilovers in whichever setup i go with so dont want it slammed but dont want nose bleeds from elevation either. I am going to go with No Limits 4 link for the rear as ive heard nothing but good things about it. I want the ride to be comfortable but i also understand that performance suspension isnt like driving a caddy.

      im sure this is all scrambled and doesnt read well. this is my first project and will probably second guess myself until i die.

      thank you for any input.
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    2. #2
      Join Date
      Aug 2010
      Location
      now In Dandridge, Tn.
      Posts
      1,301
      Country Flag: United States
      Great project. 58/9 four headlight GMC's have a bolder look than the Chev version. I can't (or won't) knock any of the companies listed, as they are doing the best in their niche. We don't build the lowest or least expensive, we focus on ride quality, drive-ability, and handling performance. But, here are a few things to check out. The downside of the C4 (if there is one) is with the rack location. In a C4, the engine is completely behind the rack, so a rack mounted 'up' with the tie rod on top of the steering arm is no problem. But, in a truck or hot-rod, with the engine farther forward, this causes the engine to be lifted so that the oil pan clears the rack. Raising the center of mass in the truck. - Now, some companies have addressed this by lowering the rack and tie rod ends and re-working the steering geometry, so that the rack is mounted 'low' and the tie rod ends fit below the steering arm. This may be something you want to look into. When it comes to cost comparisons, make sure you compare apples to apples. Our WideRide IFS base price includes P/S rack, front sway bar, boxing plates, and 12" drilled and slotted brakes as standard items, not upgrades. Our WideRide - FatBar chassis pack will give you a 4"/5" front drop, and a 4"/7" rear drop with coil overs. A "C" notch is not really required, just remove the OE bumpstop and replace with a urethane 1/2" bump. - "c" notching these trucks is mostly a mistake, unless you are going to "step notch" or raise the rails, and raise the bed floor. With the stock rail, at the moment the axle tube hits the frame, the top of the third member housing smacks the bed floor. So, unless you are raising the floor, don't do it, just box in the kick section of the frame. Hope this info helps. Do your homework, use a tape measure and a level, and have fun.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Mar 2015
      Posts
      25
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks for the response rob.

      Your setup is ideally what I planned on using before I even had the truck in my possession. I wanted to just get the kit with the front and rear in that package deal. It really looks spectacular and the reviews and results people get are as well.

      If you guys ever do an event in the Chicago land area I'd like to know so I can go and talk to you guys and see some trucks up close. Hopefully some task force ones.


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