Hidden AC Hoses

[esenior]

Like many of you have done, I wanted to keep the AC hoses in the engine compartment as much out of sight as possible. However, I didn't like the idea of bringing them through the firewall only to turn the 90 degrees before running them behind the fender.

This is what I came up with instead :




In order to get the lines to the AC unit, I used 4 short tubes to connect the firewall bulkhead to the kick panel. You may notice that the large pipe is kinked beyond use. My plan is to take these down to a shop and have them made using mine as a model, but without the kinks.

Here is the view through the kick panel :



I'm sharing these in case anyone else out there wanted to do something similar. Also, I have not decided how I am going to run the hoses from the fender to the compressor. Anyone done this yet? Anyone have any ideas/suggestions on how to do this cleanly?

---Eric

[awr68]

Thanks for sharing, I too have been thinking of doing this!!

[paul67]

Would having them made out of the flex hose be easier to fit. This is not a critisum.

paul67

[BonzoHansen]

Is that line kinked?

[Jimmy Sean]

Eric stated.

My plan is to take these down to a shop and have them made using mine as a model, but without the kinks.

Not real sure how to do a quote.

I really like this idea for the lines. Flex hose may be better so you could get nice big sweeping arcs on the hoses.

[Jimmy Sean]

My plan is to take these down to a shop and have them made using mine as a model, but without the kinks.

---Eric

I missed that big quote button at the bottom.

[CAMAROBOY69]

Great idea. Thanks for posting.

[Stan W]

Thanks,great idea

[BRIAN]

I like hiding my heater and A/C set ups in a similar way. I run them under the fender. If you look into the street rod catalogs you will find that they sell the matching fittings in 90 and 45 degrees along with straight. They are available with and without o-rings for a/c use.


No kinks and easier to assemble. They are pretty cheap also. I think Vintage Air has them on their site

[DeepBlue68]

Would having them made out of the flex hose be easier to fit. This is not a critisum.

paul67

Where can you get flex hose to do that with? I guess it depends on what type of connections those are. Anyone know?

[esenior]

I actually considered using the stock Vintage Air rubber hose, but I had a problem with hiding a rubber hose away where I couldn't see it.

I also considered using Aeroquip braided hose and connectors, but the cost is rather high for something behind a kick panel. The decision to go with hard lines was partially for durability and partial for cost (even though a couple hundred bucks in the scope of this project is drop in the bucket )

Keep in mind that if you go with rubber or braided line, you need 4 90 degree connectors, 4 straight connectors, as well as another bulkhead (2 total). The hardline is easier to work with (if someone else bends it!) and is FAR cheaper, but just as durable (if not more so). The hardlines run just under $10 each where the Aeroquip fittings are $20-$25 each (and you need 8 fittings + hose)

Plus, by saving a few bucks...I think I can talk my wife into letting me buy a set of those Marquez tail lights now!

---Eric

[indyjps]

looks great, keep us updated, im gonna scam your fine idea for my car.

[Chevy Kid]

I routed mine the same way using rubber line. The a/c hoses were routed like the picture. The heater hoses were routed into the original heater box (which is now empty) and through the fan motor hole, joining up with the A/C hoses running behind the fender. I am running the Gen II Compact evaporator.

Tim

[BRIAN]

The Air fittings are under $10 each and are not just Pep Boys rubber hoses. They do require a crimp as will any A/C hoses.


Be carefull using all hard line as pieces flex, that is why there is always a flexible line used.


Sounds interesting though.

[Chevy Kid]

I agree with the hoses needing to flex. The barrier type A/C hose is pretty durable and the crimp fittings are only a few dollars apiece. I paid $5 per end to have them crimped. My hoses are 1 piece up to the evaporator. I wanted to have the smallest amount of connections as possible to prevent further leaks.

Tim

[69Myway]

I ran mine through without installing a bulkhead so there would be no sealing/leak issues. I installed aluminum/rubber insert grommits where they go through the wall. I installed the drier and heater valve in the plenum.

I then mounted a bulk head on the extreme lower front corner of the passenger inner fender. My hoses run along the top of the inner fender, out the bottom, then turn at a 90 and come out to the linear bulkhead on the inner fender. I am running an LS1 so this positions my hoses right where they come off the motor and onto the fender.

I ran the high pressure line off the a/c compressor INSIDE the passenger frame rail out to the condenser.

My battery is in the trunk. I built a filler panel for the inner fender to fender area where my air intake it plumbed hiding a cone filter behind sucking cold air behind the headlight.

It is a tight fit but works very well. Most of the people that see the car assumes it does not have air because they don't see any lines and on the LS1 the compressor is burried low on the engine.

Very trick and fun stuff!

[69Myway]

More shots of the hidden a/c:

http://www.mcspeed.homestead.com/fil..._cleaner_2.JPG


http://www.mcspeed.homestead.com/fil..._cleaner_1.JPG

http://www.mcspeed.homestead.com/files/ram_air_1.JPG

http://www.mcspeed.homestead.com/fil...ng_stripes.JPG