Is the Ride Tech Tiger Cage NHRA/IHRA or SCCA certified yet?

[uraceulose]

It seems as thought it's been "pending" certification for awhile now so just checking before I make a decision on this.

Does anyone happen to know?



Thanks so much,

Donnie

[HandOverFist]

For NHRA not likely...no seat back bar. With everything welded it would no longer be removable if that is what you seek. It can be made to conform, but you can accomplish it cheaper by other means.

Strike that earlier remark about conforming...stainless is not an accepted material per NHRA. You can however do as you please as long as the vehicle runs no quicker than 11.49 et...with a convertible you have no choice.

[uraceulose]

Thanks, I didn't realize stainless wasn't acceptable for NHRA :/


The problem is my car is already built and there's not anyone locally here that I trust enough to build a cage. Just ran 11.89 last night at 119 mph so it'll prolly break 11.49 with some good tires. My 60 ft was 2.01 in a 68 Camaro in pro touring trim. On DR's with 15 psi and front sway bar disconnected.

So the seat back bar CANNOT be bolted in and HAS to be welded to conform to NHRA for 11.49 or faster?

Thanks,

Donnie

[HandOverFist]

Hope you can expand these enough to see Donny -







Anything is possible, but I don't see NHRA changing the rule book for this particular cage. Not all tracks will scrutinize at these et levels, but there is always that possibility. I would guess the other sanctioning bodies might be easier to convince.

[uraceulose]

Thanks so much for posting those pages!!

Couple more questions...so obviously the stainless steel (on the tiger cage) isn't an approved material correct? Asking because if it would work as a material..could you then use it if you weld in the back seat brace bar? It says swing out door bars acceptable..?

The bar that goes behind the seat MUST be FULLY welded correct? I mean, basically to go to a 5 pt or 6 pt cage...there is no way to have a usable back seat correct?


Now my next question...do I need the 5 point at 10.99 or 11.49? I'm reading conflicting information..


Just as an example..check this photo out I screen shot out of a magazine article of all places.

[uraceulose]

I don't know if you can zoom in enough to read that but it says and I quote "Although geared toward the muscle car and street crowd, this kit is in fact NHRA-legal for cars running 10.99 and slower"

[HandOverFist]

Thanks so much for posting those pages!!

Couple more questions...so obviously the stainless steel (on the tiger cage) isn't an approved material correct? Asking because if it would work as a material..could you then use it if you weld in the back seat brace bar? It says swing out door bars acceptable..? .118 mild steel and .083 4130 chromoly are the only approved materials. Swing out door bars are legal, but must be of the same approved materials and a slightly larger diameter tubing.

The bar that goes behind the seat MUST be FULLY welded correct? I mean, basically to go to a 5 pt or 6 pt cage...there is no way to have a usable back seat correct? A usable back seat is doable with a roll bar, but a pita. Those bars must be welded within 5 inches of the top of the main hoop, be a minimum of 30 degrees and the tubes must be straight.


Now my next question...do I need the 5 point at 10.99 or 11.49? I'm reading conflicting information.. Mandatory in all convertibles regardless of et, all vehicles running 11.49 and quicker. Roll cage mandatory at 9.99 and quicker.


Just as an example..check this photo out I screen shot out of a magazine article of all places.

I don't know if you can zoom in enough to read that but it says and I quote "Although geared toward the muscle car and street crowd, this kit is in fact NHRA-legal for cars running 10.99 and slower"

It would appear they came up with their own facts lol.

[uraceulose]

No kidding! lol

[HandOverFist]

Donnie - I'd like to see some pictures of your car if you can post them. I'm guessing from what you have said previously it is producing 500hp as a low estimate...betting it too nice a car to be chasing ultimate et's on the drag strip. To do that would take away overall the great driving package you already have in place. I was in the same place with my current project which is a '67 El Camino. Originally had planned putting it on the strip, but the more I thought about it the less appealing it became. The roll bar was a big sticking point for me as well...could not bring myself to punch two bars out the back window into the bed with such a nice vehicle. It is currently under construction as a pro tour/daily driver which I am confident I will enjoy more over the years.

NHRA aside, that TigerCage would be a great addition to any vehicle...the rigidity it would provide would be dramatic in the handling department. Someone once told me the definition of compromise is where nobody is satisfied...I firmly believe that statement. Your car is plenty fast already...put your sway bar back on and keep the street tires in place. I have no doubt you could shave a couple of tenths off in it's current trim whenever you decided to take it back to the track. If you begin chasing the et game it will become a never ending rabbit hole.

[uraceulose]

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showth...61#post3319961 Check out post #10.. NHRA legal to 10.00

The 500 HP is probably a little low..maybe more like 540ish

Attachment 119444Attachment 119446

[uraceulose]

Drz

[HandOverFist]

Gorgeous car Donnie...about what I envisioned. As far as your pal "Fred" goes on that forum, I think both you and he both need to order a NHRA rule book before making any decisions. You have a decision to make regarding the ultimate use of your car...be glad to offer any advice where I have experience.

My '67 does 60' times as low as 1.45 with about 200 less hp than you have...then again it only weighs 3030 pounds with me aboard.

[uraceulose]

Nice car man! What size tires you running on the rear? What width wheels and how much backspacing? What rear leafs are those? Is your car gutted interior or fiberglass front end?

[HandOverFist]

Nice car man! What size tires you running on the rear? What width wheels and how much backspacing? What rear leafs are those? Is your car gutted interior or fiberglass front end?

It's all steel with factory interior minus the rear seat. Tires are typical Stock Eliminator fare being 30 x 9 radial Hoosiers. Wheels are 10" wide with 5"BS. Rear suspension uses the CalTrac split-leaf set-up.







Recently put a little more hp in the bay just for giggles (383) coupled to a powerglide. I've only ran it a couple of times thus far and only on a 1/8-mile track.

[uraceulose]

I thought these cars weighed closer to 3400 lbs..? But actually...my car has dynamat sound insulation..full stereo with subwoofer and box. Full interior. Steel leaf springs..

But your car has a roll cage, heavier tires..heavier seats..hmm. I'll just have to think here on this. There's prolly a way to reduce the weight in my car quite a bit but i'll just have to think. Thanks for all the pictures, your car is beautiful bro.

Donnie

[HandOverFist]

I thought these cars weighed closer to 3400 lbs..? But actually...my car has dynamat sound insulation..full stereo with subwoofer and box. Full interior. Steel leaf springs..

But your car has a roll cage, heavier tires..heavier seats..hmm. I'll just have to think here on this. There's prolly a way to reduce the weight in my car quite a bit but i'll just have to think. Thanks for all the pictures, your car is beautiful bro.

Donnie

Donnie - I could lose some more weight if I relented and took those heavy factory seats out, but I just can't stand the look of modern or aftermarket seats in these cars. That wheel/tire combo on my car probably weighs less than your rim alone hehe. Fred never answered your question about the back bar on the hoop...it does have to be welded in order to be legal. Are you using mono leaf or multi leaf springs? The factory mono leaf can be made to work almost as well as the Calverts with a simple slapper bar set-up. If you really want to go down this road I'll help you put it on the bumper lol.

Here is a video of my buddies '69...weight is about the same as mine, running a 302 with a four speed. Car runs around the 10.80 mark. http://vid434.photobucket.com/albums...psc5c634d7.mp4

[uraceulose]

LoL thanks so much man. In that same post on camaro forum..another poster posted the rule book where it sure looked to me like it stated that the bar needed to be welded. Fred did say that he runs with it that way but honestly if the seat bar has to be welded...I'm going to hold off for another couple of years I think.

The weld wheels will definitely save me some unsprung weight and I can't wait to try them.

[HandOverFist]

LoL thanks so much man. In that same post on camaro forum..another poster posted the rule book where it sure looked to me like it stated that the bar needed to be welded. Fred did say that he runs with it that way but honestly if the seat bar has to be welded...I'm going to hold off for another couple of years I think.

The weld wheels will definitely save me some unsprung weight and I can't wait to try them.

If you want to hit the strip again then by all means release that front sway bar. The wheels won't net you much...it's all about the convertor and getting the suspension unbound. Are you running the factory shackles out back? If so, chuck them in the trash and buy/make your own side plates. You don't want the shackles/bolts to rotate inside the bushings...the plates should swing freely on the bolts and only tighten them enough to retain, not bind. Bushing material makes no difference.

[uraceulose]

Right on! The springs are the hotchkis springs with the shackles they came with. No that you say that I'm going to try and see how tight those bolts are back there...the wheels won't net much but I just figured being unsprung weight...even 20 lbs should make a little difference. It'll be dark by the time I get off work tonight but will take a photo tomorrow of my shackles and see what you think.

[HandOverFist]

You should be able to muster at least a 1.60 60' with minimal changes if the suspension is working correctly. Have someone video or watch the car at the start line and observe if the rear fender is separating from the tire as you come up on the convertor and at launch...if it is then it is working properly. Actually, some old worn out shocks on the rear will work nearly as well as any. Cheap Lakewood 90/10's up front work well enough for most cars. 3 degree down pinion is good enough.