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    1. #11
      Join Date
      Aug 2015
      Location
      charlotte
      Posts
      929
      Country Flag: United States

      corona update #11

      I have finished with epoxy. as of this morning I have started removing the plastic and cleaning the incredibly dusty black overspray from EVERYTHING.

      I think overall, for the sake of not disturbing parts during the slow drying process It took 5 days to get everything epoxied, and it wasn't until the last piece of the last day did I perfect the process...
      fortunately however this may be due to the fact that it is probably the only part that will remain in epoxy only so I gave it added attention and an additional coat.
      I know powder coating is probably optimal but the rear housing already had an e-coat on it and figured this is reversible and will save it from rusting any further.
      I did some research and found a large number of people who have done this, and was ensured that with an extended induction process of the epoxy it can have relatively good UV protection.


      I really like this product and learnt a lot while using it. I made a LOT of mistakes, fish-eyes, a couple runs, mismatched results due to differing induction times. but overall the car may stay like this for several months before I sand it prior to being painted so these mistakes are no real issue. But at least for now my bodywork is sealed and protected.

      I have reassembled what I can and am very happy, the gloss of the primer has shown a low spot of the firewall and I am still trying to decide whether to address it or if the satin silver I want the engine bay will even show it. Also the rear bumper has never been body-worked so I will probably hit it with some filler and respray it once the epoxy has been given a little more curing time.






      The difference in gloss level between a 2 hour induction(body) and no induction time(trunk) with the likelihood of a thiner coat also.





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