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    Results 1 to 10 of 10
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      1,008

      Running brake lines

      I got some stainless lines from inline tube, and they're made to fit the stock subframe. I'm running the Chassisworks unit though, so I'm having to bend them to fit. This is the front passenger line that's running across the front crossmember under the engine. Should I use clips to secure this portion of the line to the crossmember? Is this the proper place to route the line?

      Next pic is of the m/c and proportioning valve. There was a nice bracket for the valve, but the m/c I got exits the passenger side instead of the driver's side, so it won't work. Can I leave the valve suspended by the brake lines?





      Thx,


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Mar 2003
      Location
      Boringville
      Posts
      1,987
      sorry to be mean, but that looks kinda hokey, i would scrap all those lines, get a good flare and tube bender, and just get the regular steel ine with the spring looking guard wrapped around it, and make your own lines, and use the bracket for the prop valve.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,716
      Country Flag: United States

      uhh whos line is it?

      don't mind Yoggi, he puts the"A" in Anole! Spelled wrong to avoid the xxxx's. Id just straighten them out a bit being mindfull not to kink em and make a bracket for the prop valve.A simple one can be made to connect it to the master stud out of steel.I'd make brackets to hold the line to the frame too. AME sells nice ones.
      If it bothers you as much as it does Yoda, then maybe a nice coat of black paint to match the frame and blend it in. ???
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε


    4. #4
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      341
      You can use a baseball bat or somthing of the sort to make the bends a little more uniform. Just my .02.
      Stuart Seitz

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      1,008
      Actually as I was doing it, I thought it would be easier with straight line so I wouldn't have to un-bend all the bends that were in there. I think I'll keep working on it, since the lines were kind of expensive. Plus you will not even see the part under the engine...

      Thanks

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Mar 2003
      Location
      Boringville
      Posts
      1,987
      I was mainly talking about the lines coming off the prop going to the front brakes, right when they come off the prop, they make these wild "o's" and go way off the side. you might be able to fix it, just work on it some.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      1,008
      Oh yeah, the lines came bent that way - seems like brake lines are always bent in circles near where they connect up to the prop valve, I guess it's so that they have some give there.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,716
      Country Flag: United States

      curly q's

      I've heard so many reasons for these:
      -so the left line has the same length as the right line.
      -having the turns acts as a dampner in the braking system.
      -to give slack when the car was assembled so lines weren't kinked.
      -by having more tube adds a safety factor if system developed a leak,more fluid capacity. Can any one add one?
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε


    9. #9
      Join Date
      Jul 2002
      Location
      Mesquite, TX
      Posts
      4,941
      Country Flag: United States
      I've only heard one reason:

      The loops act as a spring so that if the prop valve shifts or something else pulls on one of the lines, the lines are able to move to adjust instead of just tearing free.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Apr 2003
      Location
      Nyköping, Sweden
      Posts
      292
      Country Flag: Sweden
      Quote Originally Posted by derekf
      I've only heard one reason:

      The loops act as a spring so that if the prop valve shifts or something else pulls on one of the lines, the lines are able to move to adjust instead of just tearing free.

      Yes that is the correct reason, remember that the body is on rubber bushings. So there is a certain amount of flex between the body and the frame. The Master cylinder sits on the body and the brakelines on the frame. Somewhere we must have a bit of slack for the lines to move, if not they would crack.

      The high pressure in the lines will also create flex in the lines themselves, this is cured by the loop so that they don't crack from that.


      Jan
      Jan Suhr
      Nyköping, Sweden
      1969 Pro touring Camaro Z/28 LS1/T56
      Scandinavian Pro Touring Forum protouring.se




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