1994 Mustang GT Pro-Touring

[Peter R]

when u do have it running, your just going with 275 on 9" front with a humungus 345 on 12" rears, u might have some driveabilty problems, I know because I daily drive summer and part of spring still have em on now 295 on 10.5 with skinnies up front you know old school drag racing weld racing pro stars.

The plan is to run the 275s up front. It should drive fine, it will probably have some understeer if I push it hard but I will deal with that later. My wheels/tires are heavy SOBs. I would like to have an extra set of drag wheels but that all cost money.

[Peter R]

what about the lower control arms, are those in the way? are u going to relocate them? or make new ones in, in a new location?

Removing the spring from the control arm frees up some space and I could have reused the control arms but I have something better planned.

[drivefaster80]

the wide wheels look like they are sitting flush with the fenders, I thought they would be protruding hence the need for flares?

The shock travel is less with a shorter shock of course but it would have been easier to fit it in there. The shock mounts above the frame rails and is less than 1/2" from the wheel. I could have moved the shocks inward but it made more sense to me to have them as far outward as possible. I couldn't find the part number on the shocks. I'll measure them next time I'm crawling under neath it. I'm replacing the rear end flange with a strange unit and I haven't decided if I'm going to take a short cut or pull the rear end apart and replace the crush sleave. Either way I'll be under neath it again. I got it off blocks for the first time in forever! The car seems so little now.

One guess where I'm going to mount the ECU.
Attachment 145176

And after a hose down.

Attachment 145177

[drivefaster80]

you welded boxed in the serrated piece to the axle, how did you come to the conclusion to make it that length? and what is the length and or dimensions is it? and how would u get the nut on the inside did u have to cut out a slot?

I think the rod end bolt is 3/4" and the searated mount is 1", I will need a spacer. That little piece came with the serated mount when I bought mine. I didn't notice in your link that it was only one piece. I would keep looking for one that comes with both pieces so you don't have to fiddle with it. I did think about making some serated parts but I don't really have the equipment for it. Plus they can be found online for a decent price.

[drivefaster80]

I got my drags cheap years ago, used off ebay even my 295's discontinued goodyear eagle gt2"s were mostly bald when I got them and I still use them, got them on now

so is that correct you got a 10" wheel up front it looks flush with the bumper?

I would like to figure out how to fit a 315/30/18 up front with the mods involved and 345/30/18 using Michelin cups. something like this guys 2000 mustang
http://www.mustangandfords.com/featu...-ford-mustang/

The plan is to run the 275s up front. It should drive fine, it will probably have some understeer if I push it hard but I will deal with that later. My wheels/tires are heavy SOBs. I would like to have an extra set of drag wheels but that all cost money.

[drivefaster80]

I cant find anywhere where they sell both

I think the rod end bolt is 3/4" and the searated mount is 1", I will need a spacer. That little piece came with the serated mount when I bought mine. I didn't notice in your link that it was only one piece. I would keep looking for one that comes with both pieces so you don't have to fiddle with it. I did think about making some serated parts but I don't really have the equipment for it. Plus they can be found online for a decent price.

[Peter R]

the wide wheels look like they are sitting flush with the fenders, I thought they would be protruding hence the need for fares?

The front and back tires should both be inside the wheel wells. The back will be very tight but after the fender lip is cut and rolled it should fit.

[Peter R]

you welded boxed in the serrated piece to the axle, how did you come to the conclusion to make it that length? and what is the length and or dimensions is it? and how would u get the nut on the inside did u have to cut out a slot?

I wanted the mount as far out as possible. The longer the bar the less side to side movement the axle will have. The panhard bar needed to clear the rear end cover so i just made sure it stuck out further then the cover did. The mount is open at the bottom so i can get a wrench on the nut.

[Peter R]

I got my drags cheap years ago, used off ebay even my 295's discontinued goodyear eagle gt2"s were mostly bald when I got them and I still use them, got them on now

so is that correct you got a 10" wheel up front it looks flush with the bumper?

I would like to figure out how to fit a 315/30/18 up front with the mods involved and 345/30/18 using Michelin cups. something like this guys 2000 mustang
http://www.mustangandfords.com/featu...-ford-mustang/

Adding the fender flares might be the easiest way to do it if your not afraid of a little body work.
I have a 9” wheel in the front. Before i had my 10” wheels widened i put them on the front and they stuck out way to far. The backspacing probably was as much to blame for them sticking out. I decided to use something i knew would fit in the front for now. I have enough other changes to try and finish.

[drivefaster80]

ok I see, whats the backspacing of your front 9" wheel and your 10" wheels widened to I guess it was 12 inches? I'm asking because I want mine to stick out and I want flares, for the front and rear but I want ones that l think look good, but nobody makes them, so I was thinking of modifying a pair of universal 3" flares for the rear. I have rendering but I cant seem to copy and paste it here, I will try somewhere else.

Adding the fender flares might be the easiest way to do it if your not afraid of a little body work.
I have a 9” wheel in the front. Before i had my 10” wheels widened i put them on the front and they stuck out way to far. The backspacing probably was as much to blame for them sticking out. I decided to use something i knew would fit in the front for now. I have enough other changes to try and finish.

[drivefaster80]

I wanted the mount as far out as possible. The longer the bar the less side to side movement the axle will have. The panhard bar needed to clear the rear end cover so i just made sure it stuck out further then the cover did. The mount is open at the bottom so i can get a wrench on the nut.

to box it in(serrated mount) did u use a template cut out of paper or card board then trace it to steel, what tools did u use to cut it out? hand held tools or stationary?

[drivefaster80]

The serrated mount I found by searching "NASCAR panhard mount" It wasn't very expensive. The rod ends are aluminum QA1. The panhard bar is also aluminum, I can't remember if it was also QA1 or someone else. The rod comes in different lengths. I just measured what Length I needed after I had the mounts made.

right but with the shiny aluminum panhard bar(swaged tubes) QA1 3/4" when the rod ends and jam nuts are tightened, installed whats the length from rod end eye to eye? wouldn't it be different from what one would choose from qa1 choices of length's? for example say I measure from mount to mount and get 24" so I order a 24" swaged tube but after adding the rod ends won't it be longer and not fit?

[Peter R]

to box it in(serrated mount) did u use a template cut out of paper or card board then trace it to steel, what tools did u use to cut it out? hand held tools or stationary?

I use a think paper to make templates then trace onto metal. I use an electric craftsman angle grinder with a metal cut off wheel for almost all my cutting. I also have a metal chop saw that works good for some cuts. Nothing to fancey. Its noisy and messy but it works.

[Peter R]

right but with the shiny aluminum panhard bar(swaged tubes) QA1 3/4" when the rod ends and jam nuts are tightened, installed whats the length from rod end eye to eye? wouldn't it be different from what one would choose from qa1 choices of length's? for example say I measure from mount to mount and get 24" so I order a 24" swaged tube but after adding the rod ends won't it be longer and not fit?

You need to figure in the length of the rod end and figure out how to long the bar will need to be. QA1 has all the dimensions in their catalog. There is probably an 1” of adjustment so you don’t have to be perfect.

[Peter R]

This engine has 200k on it but they must have took care of it. I pulled a valve cover just to see how bad it looked. I was surprised how good it looked! I am not going to touch a thing on the engine for now. Just trying to get it on the road next summer.

[Peter R]

The outside of the engine was worse than the inside so I cleaned it a bit and hit it with some spray paint.





Painted the coils

[Peter R]

I have enjoyed every part of this build so far but I was really excited to rebuild the transmission. Installing a shift kit was the most I have done with a transmission before now. I got a good book and took my time and it went pretty good. I installed a trans go shift kit and HD sprag otherwise mostly a stock rebuild. I won’t know if i did it right until it get this running so I will keep my fingers crossed.
After rebuild before paint

Painted

[Peter R]

I was looking some used exhaust manifolds since the truck manifold will not clear the steering shaft and I found what I hope is a good deal on a Yank 3600 stall converter. I didn’t have the money for the converter I wanted to buy and was thinking of buying a cheap converter until I could afford a better one, but that felt like a waste of money. Then i saw this converter for sale. The guy said it was for an LS and TH400 and stall is what I wanted. Sure enough it bolts right up without any adapters or spacer. I have 1/8” between the converter and flexplate with the transmission installed which is about perfect.




I did some measuring while the engine was still in the car and it looked like it would be correct. I have heard to many different opions about which flywheel to use or what spacer is needed so I just measured what I had.

[Josh@Ridetech]

Looks good man. I've been contemplating an LS swap in one of my foxes. I may have missed it in the thread, what wiring/computer setup are you planning on using?

[Peter R]

Looks good man. I've been contemplating an LS swap in one of my foxes. I may have missed it in the thread, what wiring/computer setup are you planning on using?

I am going to run the stock PCM and wire harness to save money. I would love to go with Holley EFI but I don’t have the extra money. Plus you can make a ton of power with the stock computer.