Thoughts on Ladder Bars/Wishbone location/coilovers

[Wildthing]

So I did a mini-tub to my first-Gen. Now, faced with the expense of a narrowed tank to enable moving the leafs in-board I am questioning the legitimacy of keeping the leafs at all.

Here is my proposed setup:
Ladder bars to square the rear-end, a weld in wishbone (QuarterMax) to locate the pumpkin, and single adjust QA1 coilovers with progressive 100-200lb springs.

also, at $190 more are double adjust shocks worth it even though I do not plan for any serious track time?

the progressives should provide some cush to the ride (Mostly streetcar) and the ability to crank them to 200lbs should provide stiffness where necessary. (My current estimate is the leaf springs provide 130lbs of 'spring').

Any thoughts/input/experience with this setup?




Nice...thought I'd put the Kiss smilies in for the heckuvit...

[Ricoch3T]

I questioned mine also. Thats why I went with a 4bar setup and new frame rails!

[parsonsj]

WT,

If you wanna kno-ow for sure (sorry, but I do like that song), do a quick search on "ladder bars". Lots of good information there. Bottom line: they are not suitable for street or track use if you want to turn corners.

jp

[astroracer]

I have to ask where you are getting your fuel tank narrowed that it would cost more then tearing up your car even more and building a brand new suspension...???? A good fuel cell is only a couple hundred bucks so I fail to see the reasoning here... Sorry but I have to make the point.
Mark

[Wildthing]

Thanks for the feed back! I have research to do on four-link suspensions.

Astrovan, I am at the point where I need to move the leaf springs in board. A new, narrowed tank is 400-700 bucks. Then I still have to fab the parts to re-hang the springs inside. The setup I quoted above costs about $600 and retains the existing fuel tank. About '...tearing up my car even more...' hmmmm....

Parsonsj, sage advice. I did some searching, got the point. The axle isn't able to resolve for axle rotation beyond vertical...thus not worthy for cornering/streetability.

Ricoch3T, What setup did you decide to use?

[Ricoch3T]

I actually made the rails myself from 2x3 ret tubing. The 4 bar brackets came from I think it was the S & W catalog (i think it was there, AM and the other suspension people also sell the brackets or as a kit with the bars you need). I pretty much built it up myself, it is similar to the DS&E kit. (do a search on here.. you'll see some other setups similar to mine, I came here to get an idea of what suspension I wanted to use)
For what its worth, I decided not to use the ladder bar setup also If you do some more research on here you'll prolly find more answers as to why the ladderbars arn't good for the street/cornering. BUT you can use them on the street, I know a few guys that do, but their cars are mainly straight line cars with limited street time.

Thanks for the feed back! I have research to do on four-link suspensions.

Astrovan, I am at the point where I need to move the leaf springs in board. A new, narrowed tank is 400-700 bucks. Then I still have to fab the parts to re-hang the springs inside. The setup I quoted above costs about $600 and retains the existing fuel tank. About '...tearing up my car even more...' hmmmm....

Parsonsj, sage advice. I did some searching, got the point. The axle isn't able to resolve for axle rotation beyond vertical...thus not worthy for cornering/streetability.

Ricoch3T, What setup did you decide to use?

[gchandler]

Give Hotrods to Hell CenterDrive a look, it allows you to retain you stock gas tank and it works really well.

yes I am biased, but I do run it on both of my chevelles and simply love the ride and performance.

[Wildthing]

gchandler...I have been drooling over the HRTH setup, just too expensive. Pplus there is some cutting into the floorpans in the car I am not too wild about. It is probably the best choice out there, but that's 1/3 of the way to a Wayne Due front end. The original intent behind the Ladder bar arrangement was to fab most of the parts myself and keep the cost way down.

Ricoch3T - Well. Plan 2. After much research and discussion with 'friends' the Art Morrison 'Tri-4 Bar' suspension seems to have pretty positive reviews and is in the $3XX range. It is the same rear they put into the 'Tri-Five' Frame. Haven't researched it here but that is next...

http://www.artmorrison.com/tri4bar.htm

Anyone out there have this rear setup???

Wildthing

[Ricoch3T]

Oh yea, I've seen those.. I like them and probably would have went with something like that instead if I had known a little more about it. I think with the triangulated setup like that the panhard\diagonal link isn't needed. I think that type of setup looks good also. By the way, are you still going to get a narrowed tank or go with a fuel cell? I hadn't made the decision yet b/c i'm not at that point in the build, but I'm leaning towards a narrowed setup. Cost more I know but I dunno if i like fuel cells in the truck.

[Wildthing]

Ricoch3t,

The only reason I have to get a narrowed tank would be to accommodate moving the leaf springs inboard. Since I am moving to the Art Morrison triangulated 4-Bar I shouldn't have any suspension pieces that will interfere with the stock fuel tank.

Wildthing

[parsonsj]

WT,

If you call the AM guys, ask for Kevin Kosir (ext. 222). He's a good guy and easy to talk with. He'll get you set up right.

jp

[tharber]

Wildthing,

You will not be able to use your stock GM housing with the AM set-up. It will require a Ford rear due to the mounting locations of their bars.

Tim

[BRIAN]

Also the mtg is close as if memory serves me right you need about 36"? bewteen the rails. I did quick measuer and it does require a bit of the rear pan to come out for full movement. It has been a while so double check with them.

I have used the S&W 4 bar (not 4 link)kit and for the $ it isn't worth fab'ing yourself. They use very short arms which may help fitment. OK quaility. Do not use their cheap spring package.