1970 Mustang Suspension

[Bryansgarage]

Hi guys, I am looking for some feedback on a decent suspension kits for my wife's 1970 Fastback. I have a Hotchkis Stage 2 kit on my Chevelle and really like it. I already have the car dropped down about 2 inches with lowering blocks and have cut the front coils, none of which helps the performance but the stance looks great. I am looking for some improvements that will improve handling and comfort. Any thoughts?

[Mo's1969]

Cost is everything.

I went with

Welded up frame connectors in rear
Heavy Duty Export brace and Boss 302 frame/shock tower stiffeners
Shelby lowering front end
Heavy duty rear leaf springs
Sway bars front and rear.
Koni adjustable shocks

It handles well now. Frame is real stiff which is probably 60% of original problem

You will need new front springs if you go this route.

Other than this spend big bucks and get drop in great suspension for front and rear

[DarkBuddha]

I've been working on my '70 Mach 1's suspension for 25 years, and the stock suspension certainly leaves A LOT to be desired and is somewhat limited in terms of ultimate ride and handling. There are so many options now for our cars that it's overwhelming to try to pick the definitively right combination. So it would help to narrow your choices down a bit with an idea of your budget and goals for driving the car. Think about budget, whether you're looking to keep the stock suspension design with bolt-in stuff, or are willing to replace the front towers, or go full frame.

[Red67Mustang]

Check out www.streetortrack.com

I have their suspension bits and can tell you they take a car that was scary to drive and turned it into a car I look forward to driving. Night and day.

[6fastback7]

Check out www.streetortrack.com

I have their suspension bits and can tell you they take a car that was scary to drive and turned it into a car I look forward to driving. Night and day.

ditto...i have the full front and rear coilover setup with a Borgeson power steering box

[Mach1_Ron]

I have a 70 Mach and went with the Total Control Bolt in Coilovers up front and am putting in the Rod and Custom Triangualated 4-Link out back. Main reason was Budget. I want the stance I had without the harsheness. I was running 750lb coils , cut 1.5 coils so they were about 1100 lbs.. and I run the 5 1/2 mid-eye rear leaf springs, but want to soften that up also. The guys at Rod and Custom are very easy and willing to talk to you and the kit is the best bang for the bucks. Comes with everything up front...Adjustable Coilovers and swaybar. But these guys are right, stiffen up the chassis as well. I run the MPG Heads (I think) Export Brace and Monte Carlo Bar stuff. Heim joint, adjustable..nice stuff. Sub Frame Connectors and stuff.. Let us know what you decide.

[esrinfo]

building 68 mustang for a friend, thought you might like some details. installed new front suspension arms and modified the lower control arm to accept a adjustable nissan rear shock and spring arrangement that fits into stock perch. lower mount is ride hieght adjustable. also, dropped upper mount location 1 inch. rack and pinion steering kit and export brace. the rear has been modified to accept skyline (nissan) irs with custom fitted coilover from a 240 sx drift car. the front and rear brake system is also skyline 4 piston calipers and rotors. total parts costs are under $2800. post some pictures if i can figure out how.

[esrinfo]

some pictures

[esrinfo]

photos

[Bryansgarage]

Wow, guys, this is some great info and has opened my eyes to some new possibilities. You are all totally correct that budget is everything, where do you stop spending....
Thanks to everyone, I will hit a new post once I get closer to decision time.

[Interceptor5588]

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[Red67Mustang]

esrifno; you might want to make sure and use a lower control arm ball joint that was designed to be in tension. The factory Mustang LCA ball joint was never expected to support the weight of the vehicle in tension. I'd hate for that factory joint to come apart while you're cruising down the highway.

[esrinfo]

esrifno; you might want to make sure and use a lower control arm ball joint that was designed to be in tension. The factory Mustang LCA ball joint was never expected to support the weight of the vehicle in tension. I'd hate for that factory joint to come apart while you're cruising down the highway.

will look into it thanks-sean

[esrinfo]

about the front ball joint question,I believe it should be strong enough as it is a tension style. cut this old one to see the strenght it has looks good. what do you guys think?

[Restomod]

Great info guys!!
Esrinfo very interested to know what Nissan the strut and spring are from

Red67mustang how does a tension differ from a compression ball joint?

Thanks in advance!

[Josh@Ridetech]

Depending on what you're looking to do with the car, our bolt on kit will improve the car's ride quality and handling, tremendously. If you're just looking for a great riding, street car, I would suggest looking into our level 1 or 2 coilover package. The kit makes the car alot more solid.

http://www.ridetech.com/store/1967-1...er-system.html

[esrinfo]

thanks for the interest. the front strut shock i used is a kyb adjustable from the rear of a 240sx-s13 and i believe the spring is mazda rx7 2nd gen which has the correct wind size on the bottom and is wound to the same as a stock mustang coil on top. the adjustable lower mount is a old ferrari lower control arm frame mount(s) i just had laying around(lol) the stock upper control arm balljoint in a mustang was choosen for its strenght in compresion. the stock lower appears to be the same or similar to a mustang 2 lower both of which are for tension loading , although early mustangs see very little loading in normal use, but the m2 has the spring on the lower arm so the same joint see's all the load.

[Restomod]

Great Esrinfo thanks for the info!! Keep up up on how it works out.