Wheel studs to use?

[strangler]

Put 02 z28 brakes on my 12 bolt but the holes in the rotor are too large. Did you guys drill out the axle flange and wheel for larger studs?

[MrQuick]

you can use coleman pn 330 160, dorman 610-323, napa 6411581 they are 12mm so you will have to replace all along with nuts.

[68BNUT]

I think he may be talking about the rotor holes arent tight on the wheel studs? If thats it, unless there WAY bigger I wouldnt worry about it. When I did my swap I didnt see a problem I just had to get longer studs.

[MrQuick]

Yeah, the stock studs neck down quite abit. They go from .610 knurl to a 7/16" or .437. The bigger studs have the same knurl but a larger diameter thread size to make up the gap.

It might be a problem if the rotor center is too large to be hub centric. I seen to remember the hub fitting fine. Not too sure in STRANGLER's situation.

[strangler]

Hub pilot fits great, but as 68BNUT said the 5 lug holes are too big. I tend to believe that this has to be tight or else the rotor will have play radially (sp?). I guess the brakes are only going to pull the rotor in one direction, so I guess they will only move once, but I just wanted to check. I'm running C5's though, so it would be possiable to have the adapter drilled for 1/2" studs on the flange half, and the stock 7/16 studs on the wheel half. I forget... is there enough meat on the axle flange to drill the holes out to 1/2? Thanks guys- Scott

[68BNUT]

I just had my back wheels off yesterday and I see what your talking about, The hubs are turned in one direction if you know what i mean,,, Ive not had any trouble with them.

[MrQuick]

If your hub is tight and your lugs are torqued properly the rotor should not rotate.

[70 LS1]

The first time I stopped the car with the C5 rotors I heard a slight clunk. It was the rotor turning to meet the studs. I have over 500 miles and some pretty good stops with the new setup and have had no problems. I do torque the wheels every so often, but that is because I am running spacers.

[LTorres]

If your hub is tight and your lugs are torqued properly the rotor should not rotate.

I agree there should be no rotation at all. As long as 1 of the 2 is centered (either the studs in the holes) or (hub centric on the hub bore center) you should be fine. This comes up quite a bit here because every Wilwood kit utilizes 1/2X20 studs.....yeah, big problemo since alot of GM products use 7/16 studs. We supply different studs like the ones "Mr.Quick" mentioned to solve the problem, in other cases when the axles come from Strange or Moser they get drilled and Screw in studs are used. Just my 2 cents.

[strangler]

Cool, thanks guys. I think Im gonna try and use 1/2" studs through the axle flange, and then C5 sized studs from the adapter to the wheel.