Aftermarket proportioning valves

[BigBlockOlds]

Has anyone ever had one of these go bad?


Mine is brand new, looks like this:





Was pulling my car onto a trailer today and the pedal went to the floor. Rolled back down off the trailer with no brakes which was a scary moment.


Saw where the fluid was dripping from and new right a way that it was at the proportioning valve.




I've spent the afternoon going over all of the connections of the brake system making sure everything is exceptionally tight but I still have a leak on top of the valve itself. Can that little plastic connector piece go bad/crack from too much pressure? I don't have the electrical connector hooked up as I'm not using that light on my dash but surely that doesn't need to be hooked up to keep it from leaking? Doesn't seem that it would do anything other than provide an electrical signal but stranger things have happened.

Car has 12" front rotors with C5 calipers, rear 12" LS1 rotors and calipers, Hydratech hydroboost setup and an adjustable proportioning valve inline to the rear brakes. It's been so long since I've done this I forget exactly what I removed but I remember having to remove a spring or something inside the valve that goes to the rear brakes so that I would get full pressure so that I could then adjust that down with the adjustable proportioning valve. If that makes any sense at all.


Any ideas?

Thanks,

[83hurstguy]

I think SicMonte on here went through 3 of the brass ones (check his build thread).

I deleted mine after hearing horrid feedback about them everywhere, put an adjustable prop valve for the rear brakes and teed the fronts. It wasn't the most fun project in the world but wasn't totally horrible either. I've got a list of parts I used somewhere, meant to put a thread up here and never did.

[BigBlockOlds]

Doesn't that get rid of the shuttle valve that helps keep pressure in at least half of the system as a backup?

The more I'm reading about this the more I'm finding people having issues with the brass valves. :(

[83hurstguy]

Doesn't that get rid of the shuttle valve that helps keep pressure in at least half of the system as a backup?

The more I'm reading about this the more I'm finding people having issues with the brass valves. :(

Yes, but with a dual pot master you should at least be able to get the car stopped. I figured I was better off without the shuttle valve and less chance of leakage...

[MCB Matt]

Honestly, for the amount of the brass valves we all sell, there are few failures.

Another solution with similar plumbing is the new Wilwood valve they made for us after we begged enough!! It has the adjustable rear valve built in.

It installs the same way, in the same location but, of course, the quality is much higher.

It looks like this:


The exit lines are similar, not the same, it will take some tweaking and adapters to connect but its a VERY popular valve now!

Matt