1967 Cougar build (over 700 pictures and videos)

[DCx]

Andrew, I may have missed it in your thread, but where did you install your MAT sensor? i unboxed my holley HP system and see i need a manifold air temp sensor. also i take it i need the seperate input/output harness to run my fans?



my car is a ways away before it will start and run. Im sure i will be bugging you for advice.

[andrewb70]

Andrew, I may have missed it in your thread, but where did you install your MAT sensor? i unboxed my holley HP system and see i need a manifold air temp sensor. also i take it i need the seperate input/output harness to run my fans?

my car is a ways away before it will start and run. Im sure i will be bugging you for advice.

My MAT screws into the back of the Hi-Ram.

Remind me again what intake you are going to use. There are a variety os sensors that will work the the HP, it's just a matter of how you want to install it.

Yes, to run the fans you need the 558-400 harness. It has 4 inputs and outputs. I highly recommend using pwm for fan control, as I have done. It is the cat's meow!

Glad to help.

Andrew

[andrewb70]

A couple of weeks ago Holley release the v4 software for it's HP and Dominator ECUs. One of the updates in this software release is the ability to alter injector end angle based on load and RPM. Previous versions of the Holley software only allowed for a single value to be inputted for the entire load and RPM range. Here is a link that can explain this much better:

http://www.hiredgunracecars.com/injector-end-angle.html

The Holley software builds a table based on the information that is found in the cam card. After tracking that information down, I ended up with the following table.



However, as the link above explains, this table is optimized for performance, and not so much for eliminating that raw gas smell at idle, which was my goal. In order to eliminate the smell the timing of the injectors must be such that the fuel is being sprayed on a closed intake valve. This improves atomization and also eliminates raw fuel from going out the exhaust during the time when both the intake and exhaust valves are open simultaneously (overlap).

As you can see from the table, the overlap on my cam is fairly significant (11 degrees), which no doubt wasn't helping the raw gas smell. So I needed to alter the injector end angle in the area of the table where the engine is starting and where it is idling. With the help of various people that are more knowledgable than I am, in the thread below:

http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh....php?t=1643338

I was able to determine that the needed angle was -187 degrees. So here is the final table that I ended up with:



The engine starts quicker, the idles is smoother, and the raw gas smell is all but eliminated. This is still a work in progress and I need a test drive, but there is salt on the roads here in WI, so it will be a minute...

Thanks Holley for making my hot rod easier to live with!

Andrew

[carbuff]

Andrew,

I read that same thread and the linked article on EOIT. I installed V4 the week before the holidays, but I haven't had time to do much with it yet. I have significantly more cam overlap than you do, so I have the same interest in correcting the fuel smell at idle and cruise.

It looks like you manually adjusted the cruise area of the table, but left a lot of the cruise areas (depending on what your cruise RPM is anyway). Mine is 2200-2600 depending on speed.

I also noticed you changed the Injector Placement from 6 to 4". I have mine set at 6" currently (Vic Jr intake, which should have similar placement to your setup I believe). Did you notice anything when you changed this, or were you able to drive/experiment with the number?

Are you also going to experiment with the 1D table to adjust EOIT based on CTS?

I'm traveling this week, so I won't get to mess with mine more until next weekend unfortunately. But Holley gave us some nice features with this update! Enough to get me in trouble too... ;)

[DCx]

My MAT screws into the back of the Hi-Ram.

Remind me again what intake you are going to use. There are a variety os sensors that will work the the HP, it's just a matter of how you want to install it.

Yes, to run the fans you need the 558-400 harness. It has 4 inputs and outputs. I highly recommend using pwm for fan control, as I have done. It is the cat's meow!

Glad to help.

Andrew

I am running a corvette LS6 intake manifold. I saw a few guys drill out what would be the egr location on a LS1 intake and place the MAT there. i dont want to damae this manifold. I was thinking i would just place it in the intake tube before the throttle body. the holley sensor is threaded and the OEM LS1 sensor from 98-01 fits into a rubber grommet. not quite sure how i will set up my intake piping as i cannot tig aluminum and would rather not use mild steel.... unless it was ceramic coated? i will figure it out.

i am going to use a set of 4th gen F body cooling fans. i need to buy two relays to run them. i was going to buy the painless 3 bank relay setup (have one on my carbbed ls1 camaro) but since the HP harness it pre-wired for a fuel pump i only need two more additional relays.

the car will get a 20 circuit universal chassis harness from speedway. Should be rather easy to wire. all i will really need to do is adapt my headlight and tail light harness to it and wire the turn signal switch accordingly. I used a painless muscle car harness in my camaro and it was $500! the speedway kit is $164 and comes with a headlight and dimmer switch.

alternator will charge via holley pig tail. <--- wish i had one of these years ago. i ended up having a self exciting regulator put in my ls1 camaro alternator for my carbbed swap. soldering in the resistor to the b terminal never worked right for me.

[PhillipM]

Project is looking great Andrew!

[andrewb70]

I am running a corvette LS6 intake manifold. I saw a few guys drill out what would be the egr location on a LS1 intake and place the MAT there. i dont want to damae this manifold. I was thinking i would just place it in the intake tube before the throttle body. the holley sensor is threaded and the OEM LS1 sensor from 98-01 fits into a rubber grommet. not quite sure how i will set up my intake piping as i cannot tig aluminum and would rather not use mild steel.... unless it was ceramic coated? i will figure it out.

i am going to use a set of 4th gen F body cooling fans. i need to buy two relays to run them. i was going to buy the painless 3 bank relay setup (have one on my carbbed ls1 camaro) but since the HP harness it pre-wired for a fuel pump i only need two more additional relays.

the car will get a 20 circuit universal chassis harness from speedway. Should be rather easy to wire. all i will really need to do is adapt my headlight and tail light harness to it and wire the turn signal switch accordingly. I used a painless muscle car harness in my camaro and it was $500! the speedway kit is $164 and comes with a headlight and dimmer switch.

alternator will charge via holley pig tail. <--- wish i had one of these years ago. i ended up having a self exciting regulator put in my ls1 camaro alternator for my carbbed swap. soldering in the resistor to the b terminal never worked right for me.

There is no issue with putting the AIT sensor in the intake pipe. You can use the LS1 style push in style, just drill a hole, use a grommet and off you go.

Doing the fans pwm is really awesome. You won't even know when they kick on as opposed to having them blowing 100%. You can use the C6 fan controller for both fans and run them simultaneously.

The Holley fuel pump wire still needs to trigger a relay for the pump.

When you wire the alternator, add an extra pin at the S terminal on the Holley pigtail and run that to the main power distribution point. This will adjust alternator output based on load. I did this and it works better than the set-up in my GTO...LOL

Andrew

[andrewb70]

Project is looking great Andrew!

Thanks Phillip!

I wish I was in AZ right now. It's supped to be a high of 5 degrees on Sunday here. More cold start tuning! LOL

Andrew

[arcane73]

Thanks Phillip!

I wish I was in AZ right now. It's supped to be a high of 5 degrees on Sunday here. More cold start tuning! LOL

Andrew

Yeah, you can keep that temp. We've got a cloudy, dreary 57*.

[DCx]

There is no issue with putting the AIT sensor in the intake pipe. You can use the LS1 style push in style, just drill a hole, use a grommet and off you go.

Doing the fans pwm is really awesome. You won't even know when they kick on as opposed to having them blowing 100%. You can use the C6 fan controller for both fans and run them simultaneously.

The Holley fuel pump wire still needs to trigger a relay for the pump.

When you wire the alternator, add an extra pin at the S terminal on the Holley pigtail and run that to the main power distribution point. This will adjust alternator output based on load. I did this and it works better than the set-up in my GTO...LOL

Andrew

i still need to add a relay for a fuel pump? i was looking at the HP harness and the green fuel pump wire is already wired to a relay. or am i mistaken?

do you have any objections to running an aluminum throttle body spacer and drilling that out for the AIT sensor? i didn't really want to have an intake tube, just a filter on the throttle body for simplicity.

[andrewb70]

i still need to add a relay for a fuel pump? i was looking at the HP harness and the green fuel pump wire is already wired to a relay. or am i mistaken?

do you have any objections to running an aluminum throttle body spacer and drilling that out for the AIT sensor? i didn't really want to have an intake tube, just a filter on the throttle body for simplicity.

The green wire needs to trigger a relay for the fuel pump. That circuit is only good for a 2A load.

I see no issues with using a spacer and tapping it for the air temp sensor.

Andrew

[andrewb70]

For anyone that wants to implement pwm fan control using the Holley ECU and the C6 Corvette fan controller, here is some critical information:

https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...dule-Connector

The hardest part has been finding the connector for the C6 fan controller, but now this has been figured out and the information posted in the link above.

Andrew

[andrewb70]

In the never ending effort to improve various aspects of this build, I have decided to add some real tunes to compliment the awesome engine and transmission noises. The current stereo was state of the art in 1972, but it hardly qualifies as being even adequate today. Currently the stereo consists of an ancient 8-track player and AM/FM radio, some speakers in behind the kick panels and 6x9s in the rear deck.

The plan is to retain the 8-track head unit, strictly for looks (it also makes for a nice phone holder), and add a couple of amps, better speakers in the front, and add a small subwoofer. The front speaker amp that I have chosen is the Kenwood KAC-M1824BT. It is a Bluetooth amp that will allow me to use my phone directly, without having a head unit. I made a short video to show some of the features:





Stay tunes (no pun intended) to more info...

Andrew

[Crestronwizard]

That's an interesting piece. Look forward to "hearing" how it goes

[andrewb70]

That's an interesting piece. Look forward to "hearing" how it goes

I see what you did there ;-)

Andrew

[Dave B]

I like that!

[andrewb70]

Today was warm enough that I could go out to the garage and do a little tinkering without freezing my balls off. My original plan was to retain the 8-track head unit for visual purposes, but after seeing how big it is, it just had to go. I gave a lot of thought as to where to mount the little amps and I decided that the best place for them was under the dash in the space where the old head unit used to live. The problem was that in order to mount the 8-track, the previous owner hacked up the original stock radio bezel. So I went on the WCCC website and found a really nice used bezel. It was listed as "grade B" but for my pile it was perfect.



After eyeballing the space now left where the head unit used to occupy, I decided to make a plate to mount both amps. I had some 1/4" plastic left over from a summer project (I made custom window well covers) so I hacked off a piece and made a little plate.



These were some holes already in the bottom of the dash and I used a couple of them to hold the plate in place.



I was going to start on the wiring, but I realized that I didn't have the right terminals on hand, so I called it a day.



Now, if I can only figure out how to mount my giant MB Quart 8" components in the kick panels, I would be all set! LOL

Andrew

[Crestronwizard]

Don't you just love getting some time to work on your car, laying everything out..............just to realize you're missing something. Happens.Every.Time.

[andrewb70]

Don't you just love getting some time to work on your car, laying everything out..............just to realize you're missing something. Happens.Every.Time.

Indeed!

Geoff,

Maybe you have some ideas on how I make the 8" speakers I have fit in the kick panels.

I got some reproduction kick panels with built in speaker pods, but they are super small, not even big enough for 6.5" speakers. I have an old pair of MB Quart 8" components that I would love to use, but they are big...Since the stock kick panels are basically flat I was thinking about using a piece of wood on the backside then making speaker pods using the fleece and fiberglass method.

Any ideas are welcome!

Andrew

[130fe]

Andrew, which Holley harness/system did you use for your swap in this car? I am currently using the GMPP harness (like you have in the your GTO) on my crate L92 (similar to yours) and just wondering if the Holley is a better/worse system to go with. I would like to be able to use the pwm setting and similar stuff with having to refresh my GM PCM. I recently bought HP tuners because I want to be able to adjust my PCM settings without going to a tuner. I have not found very many tuners in my area so I am considering switching over to something like that Holley system. Any feedback would be appreciated.