Ideas for hidden water temp sender

[65 drop top]

Hi, I'm trying to hide the water temp sending unit on my bbc. I was thinking about making a stainless upper radiator hose and adding a bung on the bottom side for the sender. Any problem with doing this? Any other ideas as to where I can hide it? Thanks.

[camrat68]

Here http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedw...Neck,9013.html is one option but I don;t know that it's any better than a visible sender. You're not using a port in the heads?

My Dart heads weren't drilled for that option and we didn't catch it until after installation so the Speedway filler neck is the way to go for me.

-Jim

[65 drop top]

Thanks for the reply. I have AFR heads so they don't have any ports on them. I am really trying to hide all of the wiring on the engine so I was hoping to find somewhere hidden or at least down low to put it. The engine is already installed in the car so that limits some of my options. I had thought about just using a port on the intake manifold and making a cover for the sender but I just think it'll look out of place on the engine.

[LS1-IROC]

Coolant drain right above the pan rail.

[65 drop top]

That would be perfect, do you know which ones specifically? I just went to the garage and looked, I saw several plugs but I think some of those are oil. It's a mark IV bow tie block.

[speED]

The small 1/8" plugs directly above the pain rail are oil galleries. The 1/4" plug is for the water jackets.

[65 drop top]

Thanks that'll work perfect

[Ron]

A quick note - From the radiator, cooled coolant enters the block around the cylinders then flows up through the heads picking up heat then out to the radiator. That is why coolant temperature is usually taken at or near the thermostat housing when the coolant is at it's highest temperature.

Ron Davis

[65 drop top]

Thanks Ron. So by mounting the sender down low on the block then the temp is going to read low, but would it at least give me a good reference point if I was to have cooling problems? How much of a difference would there be by mounting it low? I want to have an accurate reading but I'm really trying to hide all the wires/ senders as I'm going for a "show car" look. Thanks.

[Ron]

Hi 65 Drop Top

As far as hiding the wires, the back of the intake can be tapped into. Covers can be made to cover and house them. We have done radiators placing the sending unit so the sender and wires can be hidden. The OEM’s take the engine coolant temp at or just after the heads at or near the thermostat. From my perspective with the sender in the cool part of the engine, if something goes wrong, the gauge will be reading temperature changes late or behind the event. As far as coolant temperature difference, we do not like to see more than a 20 degree difference in and out of the radiator. So the engine should be in line with that.

There is a lot to this, I tried keep it short but, if you would like more info give me a call at 800-842-5166.

Ron Davis

[CampbellshotrodsAZ]

Ron pretty much hit all of my concerns, but then again with that name and location I'm guessing he knows cooling systems. I'd do some research on the temperature differences for sure, probably dual senders while you're getting it going, then you'll know your reference points. The other thing I don't know if I'd like with a low mounted sender, versus one at the high point is that with a higher mounted sending unit, if you have low coolant or air in the system you will get erratic readings, and know to check the level. A lower point will not give you adequate warning.

Me personally, I like the functional look. On my Mustang I neatly wrapped my sending unit wire with tight black braided sleeves, and heat shrinked the ends. It looks OEM, and super clean, yet is super functional and easy to service still.

[MonzaRacer]

Ive seen some taped into the rear of the intake into water ports, makes them easy to hide and tuck wires away behind engine.

[bryant]

how about in the bottom of the front coolant passage under the t-stat housing.
you could remove the t-stat housing and drill through the floor into the air gap. the hardest part will be taping it with a pipe thread tap. i can think of several ways to do this.
you could tap it for an over sized pipe plug to go in from the top down. then drill and tap the pipe plug from its bottom up for the sensor.
you could try to cut a tap down to fit in the air gap.
you may be able to use a standard tap from the top and then depend on the sensors taper to seal in the straight threads. you could use some lock tite to help ensure the seal.

then just run the sensor wire through the air gap to the sensor.