The Steel Beast Project!

[1980steelbeast]

Hey whats up guys?
I'm sure most of you may know of me and have seen my member introduction thread, so I'm updating everything here on my 1980 El Camino as I venture into the unknown with my first Pro Touring style build.
If anyone has advice, please feel free to input as I'm still learning from mistakes. Lol

Well since the last update, a lot has been done to my 1980 El Camino aka The Beast to get it ready to pound the streets and get close to show ready.

First, the BluePrint 385 Stroker had to be painted, so I went back with the original red orange color as before, but I've added a little chrome to bling up the engine bay.









I was stumped on an ignition system, so I had to do research on what's available and reliable for street/strip use and I can depend on for years to come.

After weeks of research, I went with MSD Ignition's Digital 6AL with the built in rev limiter and Pro-Billet distributor.




Since were trying to vehicle as a sleeper, I had to contact Race Ready Performance here in Texas for some of their electric cutouts to not only increase exhaust flow, but to get a few horses.


Fast forward to the drivetrain install, we ran into a problem.
The stock crossmember wouldn't work with the 700-r4 transmission, so it had to be modified & moved back a few inches.
(Due to budget, it was fabricated.)



NOW, shes in!

[1980steelbeast]

The ceramic coated headers needed to be cleaned up since they've been sitting for a while.
Also, filing down the flange helps reduce gasket leaks.




Got the Race Ready Performance Electric Cutouts installed.




This is a pic of the BPE 385 installed. This shows the old HEI distributor.



And THIS is the final stage of getting the engine bay done!

[1980steelbeast]

Hey guys, I still need help with suspension.
Currently its stock with work out springs but I did install KYB gas shocks in the rear to replace the worn out cheap Gabriels.
I would like to eventually upgrade to something different but I'm on a tight budget.
Although thi is a sponsor driven vehicle, I'm stumped at what suspension companies offer good 2 inch lowering springs for an El Camino due to it being a truck with no weight in the back.
Does anyone have a solution to how to bring thos car down a bit?

[driveit]

Liking it so far. Here is a rendering I did. This is what I would do if I had one to build.

[1980steelbeast]

Liking it so far. Here is a rendering I did. This is what I would do if I had one to build.

Thats the same lowering scheme I'd like to do. I'm a huge fan of the exhaust exiting the the body.

[carguykeith]

As far as the front suspension, since your building a G-body I don't think you can beat my setup for the price. Just take a look at my build thread in my signature for the details.

[oldtinsmith]

What happened to the video's Beast?

Doug

[1980steelbeast]

As far as the front suspension, since your building a G-body I don't think you can beat my setup for the price. Just take a look at my build thread in my signature for the details.

Thats the same set-up set up I like. I'm taking notes for sure!

What happened to the video's Beast?

Doug

Here's a couple links to some video!

Testing the new BluePrint Engines 385: http://youtu.be/CifaqWVR784
BluePrint Engines 385: http://youtu.be/avIMSq3BFZE

[1980steelbeast]

Big Front Pro Touring sway bar and adjustable rear sway bar.

[1980steelbeast]

Are s10 spindles the way to go?

[jlcustomz]

Brandon,if you're referring to drop spindles over shorter front springs for lowering, yes. Doesn't worsen factory geometry like shorter springs.

If you want exhaust to exit that high up into the body, the pipes will need to come through the floor of the smugglers box & then out. Could be done. would need a metal cover over the area for heat & sound control.

[1980steelbeast]

Brandon,if you're referring to drop spindles over shorter front springs for lowering, yes. Doesn't worsen factory geometry like shorter springs.


If you want exhaust to exit that high up into the body, the pipes will need to come through the floor of the smugglers box & then out. Could be done. would need a metal cover over the area for heat & sound control.

How's the ride with S10 drop spindles? Is there anywhere to find them besides a junkyard?

As for the exhaust, If you lived in Tx, I'd let you guinea pig those pipes for me. Lol

[jlcustomz]

The whole point of a drop spindle change only is just the front ride height changes, so ride stays the same , except for possible rubbing or scraping issues from the lowered height.

As far as pipes go ,gots all I need.

[1980steelbeast]

The whole point of a drop spindle change only is just the front ride height changes, so ride stays the same , except for possible rubbing or scraping issues from the lowered height.

As far as pipes go ,gots all I need.

Oh, I see. So are you saying to just go ahead with drop spindles and then use a 2 or 3 inch drop for the rear?
Also, does anyone have fiberglass parts they're not using?
Looking for bumpers and and air dam.

[1980steelbeast]

It's been a while since I've been on, so here's the updates.
I've finally gotten the engine bay halfway decent with the engine and MSD Digital 6AL dialed in exactly where I want it.



It took some beating and fabrication with a BFH to get my seats mounted be my buddy and I got them in.



I've also decided to remove the old school rallies and replace them with my black 17 inch Cragars.. Fronts are 17x8(246/46/17), Rear are 17x9(245/45/17).
This picture is from a photoshoot I did for my sponsors BluePrint Engines and BOOSTane.

[1980steelbeast]

I do have a few questions regarding suspension. I need as much input as possible because I'm looking to do the suspension on a budget.
I'm wanting to lower the El Camino to compliment the 17s, but I don't know how many inches to go.
Would 2 inches be too much? I'm not looking to go so low that it affects the ride quality on city streets.

[1980steelbeast]

Also, what brand springs have the best spring rate for a muscle truck such as the G body El Camino?

[jlcustomz]

Hey Brandon, glad to see you're still at it. Had almost zero time myself this year for doing anything I wanted. Not missing much on ECC these days. They are getting a whole level of stricter on ethnics, off topic stuff, joking & what not, so that may be a good thing for you.

Up front, I'd say it's just dying stance wise for 2" drop spindles. As stated before, ride quality should be pretty much the same except for possible rubbing issues. As a temporary measure till I make custom inner fenders, I cut the outer approx. 2" out of the plastic & metal inner fenders & rolled the fender bolt holes flat against the fenders. The outer inner fender area bolts would rub my tires on hard bumps. Look at my current pics in my thread, those 18's with tall tires don't rub. Early 80's s-10 drop spindles are the same,I found some new at a show for $150, which I may not even use with my planned ridetech air ride. Also up front, an air dam of some sort will help you look lower.

Out back, lowering springs are the best method, but it is possible to cut the springs shorter with a grinder & quickie thin disc. I'd do the front first, you might even like the look of a slight rake.

You can drop lower & ride ok without spending much, but like me right now, all the old suspension stuff needs to be updated or at least rebuilt eventually for a proper ride. I really didn't have too bad of a complaint with my old suspension rubber & original front shocks till I put these heavier 18" wheels on here.

[1980steelbeast]

Hey Brandon, glad to see you're still at it. Had almost zero time myself this year for doing anything I wanted. Not missing much on ECC these days. They are getting a whole level of stricter on ethnics, off topic stuff, joking & what not, so that may be a good thing for you.

Up front, I'd say it's just dying stance wise for 2" drop spindles. As stated before, ride quality should be pretty much the same except for possible rubbing issues. As a temporary measure till I make custom inner fenders, I cut the outer approx. 2" out of the plastic & metal inner fenders & rolled the fender bolt holes flat against the fenders. The outer inner fender area bolts would rub my tires on hard bumps. Look at my current pics in my thread, those 18's with tall tires don't rub. Early 80's s-10 drop spindles are the same,I found some new at a show for $150, which I may not even use with my planned ridetech air ride. Also up front, an air dam of some sort will help you look lower.

Out back, lowering springs are the best method, but it is possible to cut the springs shorter with a grinder & quickie thin disc. I'd do the front first, you might even like the look of a slight rake.

You can drop lower & ride ok without spending much, but like me right now, all the old suspension stuff needs to be updated or at least rebuilt eventually for a proper ride. I really didn't have too bad of a complaint with my old suspension rubber & original front shocks till I put these heavier 18" wheels on here.

I'm looking into the S10 drop spindles but haven't had extra cash to get them. I'm wanting to know what everyone is using because I'm ready to start pulling the triggers on getting this muscle truck to stick like an asphalt snake! I can't afford to mess up on buying and returning parts. Lol
I'd like a little rake. Just enough to give off a mean stance with the 17s., but not too much to where I'm having clearance issues. I'm already having that on the passenger rear with a 17x9 wheel. I've heard of that side having a tighter clearance, but haven't found out why..
I'm turning The Beast aka Fugly Duckling into the farm truck of Pro Touring. Lol
As for ECC, those guys are the reasons forums are dying. They lack knowledge of what keeps members coming back for more! Eventually they'll die off and good forums like this will continue to prevail.

[jlcustomz]

What most others on this forum are using for suspension isn't in our low budget. Other low budget upgrades, such as boxing the factory rear control arms requires cutting & welding in metal, only low budget if you already have these kinds of tools. otherwise best to just save up & buy. If you later get into just swapping new front & rear control arm bushings into your existing, upgraded rubber will give you less street harshness than urethane or delrin. Better handling stuff does get expensive. Good aftermarket front control arms , such as ridetech, eliminate bumpsteer (wheels changing direction when hitting a bump) along with the improved geometry that gives better tire contact, but I'm looking at $1300 for a set. You can subtract out the cost & time of improved bushings & ball joints from the extra amount this would cost you over re-doing your stockers. I've been saving up for these.

On rear wheel clearance, either side can be tighter. Mine is driver side. The area in the upper rear of wheel well fender lip is the tightest. You can't completely cut off the lip since the quarter panel is spot welded to the fenderwell, but you can sure trim some of the worst area back a little bit. You're likely getting the most rubbing when turning on an incline & bouncing.

I just gave you the lowest cost advice first. I swapped front & rear springs approx 11-12 years ago, which I would have did drop spindles had I known better at the time. Now you know what time frame can be called temporary if you have to
PS be careful where you park that thing. I might sneak up & buff a shiny circle in one of you panels.