My wife's old car. '66 Mustang

[I_make_oil]

Dash is painted. Ordered bumpers and gauges today.

[Crestronwizard]

I went with a 295/35/18 (in my 68 Cougar) which is only 1/2" narrower than the 315 and it's still a big tire . I also went with the TCI kit up front .

Same tire size I'm running. Michelin Pilot Sports. They seemed to be one of the best street tires out , of course that was three years ago and I might have one mile on them, lol.

I think the 351W would fit the stock hood. My coyote would have cleared if I wasn't running a blower and body dropped it. Prob would have cleared without the body drop.

Nice to see more coupes being done. Keep up the good work and the updates!

[I_make_oil]

Thanks. I really don't think we could have fit a stock hood with the intake I have on the engine. This is my first big build and I've learned lots along the way. I have a long list of lessons learned for my next project.

The hood, front fenders, doors, stone guard and front apron are on. Had some questions on the hood but Mr. Charles Maier himself was good enough to work us through them. I'm very impressed with the level of support we've received from the industry as we've built this car. I hope to have some pictures of the car with all the panels in place before its disassembled again for final paint. I know it won't be ready for cruising the coast but I am planning on doing the power tour with it this summer.

[I_make_oil]

Body work is continuing. This has been the most frustrating part of the project for me. So near yet so far. All the comments I've read about paint jail are so true.

That said the guys working on my car really are going the distance to make sure the car is 100% before paint. The door gaps were terrible as well as the fender gaps and where the head light buckets met and they transitioned to the cowl. We ended up buying new head light buckets which weren't much better. The hood to fender gap also fought us. The previous time the car was painted the front fenders and all the rest of the car had been welded together and the seams filled. When the car was disassembled everything had to be cut apart. I guess filling all of the seams is easier than fixing the gaps the correct way. I used to think that ''smoothing'' the seams was a custom touch. I'm now learning it is a short cut to making things actually fit.

[langleylad]

Body work is continuing. This has been the most frustrating part of the project for me. So near yet so far. All the comments I've read about paint jail are so true.


oh ya , tell me about it brother . I'm in the same jail as you .

[Crestronwizard]

That was a long and excruciating part of the build for me. The amount of time it took me after it came back from paint was more surprising though. Keep at it, it will be done one day!

[rhurley]

What hood is that?? how was the quality?

[I_make_oil]

Thank you guys for the encouraging words. It goes a long way towards keeping me motivated and moving forward.

The hood is a Maier cowl hood. I'd say it is well made compared to the other fiberglass hoods I've seen out there for classic mustangs. It did require about 5 hours of work to get it flat and smooth. The hinges matched up well. The drivers side edge needed work as you can see in the pictures. The hood has a smooth bottom attached on the edges that had me concerned at first. It appeared to me to be delaminating. I contacted Maier and Charles Maier himself responded to me. He explained that their 65/66 mustangs have a second "skin" attached on the bottom to give them a more finished appearance. They don't bond this skin all the way across to prevent it from acquiring the same texture of the rough surface below it. It makes sense to me. I was very impressed that he responded to me himself about an issue like this.

[I_make_oil]

Getting ready to order my gauges and accessory controls and I'd appreciate some input from the forum members.

I'm am leaning towards Dakota Digital gauges with a GPS speedometer. I have an Ididit steering column that is set up with a GM style cruise control buttons built into the turn signal. I think I will go with the Dakota Digital cruise vice the Ididit as I think it would fit with the gauge package more easily. It is supposed to plug right into the Ididit column with no poblems. Any opinions/experience with Dakota Digital cruise vs. Ididit? Also thinking of installing the digital compass, outside temp, tire pressure monitoring system and convenience package. The convenience package keeps the accessories and lights on for a preset amount of time after stopping the car like a modern car does.

Here is where I am. I am torn between the gauge styles that Dakota Digital sells. Anyone have any experience with any of them?

1965 66 Ford Mustang VHX Dakota Digital | eBay

1965 1966 Ford Mustang Billet Dash Gauges Instruments Dakota Digital Black VHX | eBay

DAKOTA DIGITAL 64 65 Ford Falcon & Mustang Analog Dash Gauge System VHX-64F-FAL

I am leaning towards the 6 gauge system with a the separate Tach. that I linked in the middle. I also like that it has two separate digital information read outs. The interior I am going after is what I call an updated classic style. I want it to look like a high end '66 Mustang. Leather wrapped dash, 1 piece MTF head liner covered in vinyl, Pony style door panels. Nice Leather wrapped center console with a double DIN stereo installed. AC vents are billet. My seats will be Distinctive Industries Touring II in black leather pony style with head rests. The rear seat will be covered to match the front. I have a flaming river waterfall steering wheel. The dash, doors, steering column and any exposed hard surfaces are all painted body color. What do ya'll think would be the best choice for the gauges?

[rhurley]

Thank you guys for the encouraging words. It goes a long way towards keeping me motivated and moving forward.

The hood is a Maier cowl hood. I'd say it is well made compared to the other fiberglass hoods I've seen out there for classic mustangs. It did require about 5 hours of work to get it flat and smooth. The hinges matched up well. The drivers side edge needed work as you can see in the pictures. The hood has a smooth bottom attached on the edges that had me concerned at first. It appeared to me to be delaminating. I contacted Maier and Charles Maier himself responded to me. He explained that their 65/66 mustangs have a second "skin" attached on the bottom to give them a more finished appearance. They don't bond this skin all the way across to prevent it from acquiring the same texture of the rough surface below it. It makes sense to me. I was very impressed that he responded to me himself about an issue like this.

Hmmm good to know. I have been on the hunt for a cowl hood. But Cant decide on which one. Would you buy another? or from someone else?

[I_make_oil]

Hmmm good to know. I have been on the hunt for a cowl hood. But Cant decide on which one. Would you buy another? or from someone else?

If I was to buy another fiberglass cowl hood this is the one I would go with again. Whatever hood you do buy it will require work to make it ''right''. Don't think it will be a bolt on and paint proposition. None of them will be. At least this one is finished on the underside in some fashion and not raw fiberglass. This hood has about 15 hours in it to get it to what I consider acceptable. I asked Charles about producing a steel cowl hood for classic Mustangs and he doesn't think there would be enough demand to support the expenses of making them. I also considered buying a steel cowl and grafting it to a stock hood but after metal work and body work figured I'd come out cheaper with a fiberglass hood. I estimated between 20 and 30 hour at a minimum to get a steel hood right and then I had concerns about the strength after cutting out the braces for the cowl. There are trade offs in all the choices. Good luck with your decision.

[rhurley]

If I was to buy another fiberglass cowl hood this is the one I would go with again. Whatever hood you do buy it will require work to make it ''right''. Don't think it will be a bolt on and paint proposition. None of them will be. At least this one is finished on the underside in some fashion and not raw fiberglass. This hood has about 15 hours in it to get it to what I consider acceptable. I asked Charles about producing a steel cowl hood for classic Mustangs and he doesn't think there would be enough demand to support the expenses of making them. I also considered buying a steel cowl and grafting it to a stock hood but after metal work and body work figured I'd come out cheaper with a fiberglass hood. I estimated between 20 and 30 hour at a minimum to get a steel hood right and then I had concerns about the strength after cutting out the braces for the cowl. There are trade offs in all the choices. Good luck with your decision.

Thank you so much for the great input. I know maier does a good job, and also understand nothing will just bolt on. I am just trying to find one that doesn't require like you said 20 hours of work.

[I_make_oil]

More paint is finally going on. Interior is done. Door jabs are done, under the hood is done. The car should be headed to the booth for the rest of the paint soon and it's on to assembly. Corey is going to paint all the exterior at once to ensure the paint is a perfect match. I hate to say it's going to be painted soon because every time I do another problem crops up and delays it.

[xsboost90]

Looking good! Cant wait till im at the painting stage.

[I_make_oil]

Still not fully painted. The shop got busy. Hopefully soon. Here are a few updates.

Fuel cell in. Beginning to plan the trunk layout. Spoke to my interior guy and parts collection has begun. Should be able to get busy as soon as Corey hands it over.

Steering column is installed. The wheel on it was only supposed to be a temporary thing until final assembly but it's kind of growing on me. My intention is to install a Flaming river waterfall but I'm not so sure now.

[I_make_oil]

Spoke with my builder Corey and my interior guy again yesterday. The car should be painted ANY DAY! Corey found a few spots on the rear passenger fender he was not happy with. They are fixed now and the primer is curing again. Once it's done it will be final block and paint. Finally.

The interior guy is going to put together the time schedule for going forward. He will do what he can without getting in the way of the other work. Corey has gotten with the mechanic on the drive train install and wiring. I have an AAW wiring kit so hopefully that will not be too big of a deal. There is a Ride Tech distributor in Baton Rouge who wants to go through the suspension and will install the control system. They want to use the car as a display once it's complete and for a few trade shows. I am soooooo ready for this to be finished. The hardest part is doing all this from so far away. I'm very thankful to have Corey to work with as I have been out of the country for the majority of the build.

[I_make_oil]

These are a few pics I received, I will hopefully get to go see the car in the next week or so. Time to begin assembly.

[I_make_oil]

A few more. Still need to cut and buff.

[wfo guy]

Almost out of paint jail!

[Godbolt]

Looks great! What colour is that?
James