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    Page 24 of 80 FirstFirst ... 14 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 34 74 ... LastLast
    Results 461 to 480 of 1589
    1. #461
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      sw Kansas
      Posts
      1,661
      Country Flag: United States
      Cool. Have you counted how many holes you have to fill yet? I think my record is 62. I try to forget the pita stuff.



    2. #462
      Join Date
      Apr 2014
      Posts
      803
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by wfo guy View Post
      Cool. Have you counted how many holes you have to fill yet? I think my record is 62. I try to forget the pita stuff.
      Wow, hopefully not 62. I think the fire wall has about 25 holes to be filled and I'm sure there are a few more on the inter fender wells. I think I'm getting closer to the bodywork and painting stage of this project, I hope? ;-)
      Thanks
      Pat

    3. #463
      Join Date
      Apr 2014
      Posts
      803
      Country Flag: United States
      The RMS suspension requires a few holes drill through the frame and they tell you not to over tighten these bolts so you don’t collapse the frame. So I welded in 2 reinforcements to help prevent that from happening. The 1/8” plate is welded on both sides.
      Thanks
      Pat












    4. #464
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Ma.
      Posts
      5,560
      Country Flag: United States
      Nice! That should keep it straight.
      Wayne
      Car FINALLY home !!!!!! lol
      Project FNQUIK https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=FNQUIK

    5. #465
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      sw Kansas
      Posts
      1,661
      Country Flag: United States
      That was quicker than sleeves.

    6. #466
      Join Date
      May 2010
      Location
      British Columbia
      Posts
      509
      Damb , you are one smart fella ! That driveshaft loop/crossmember ...... wow ! . Do you actually sleep at night ? Your brain must be working overtime .

    7. #467
      Join Date
      Dec 2015
      Posts
      198
      Country Flag: United States
      Great idea! Love the build.

    8. #468
      Join Date
      Apr 2014
      Posts
      803
      Country Flag: United States
      I started filling all of the unused holes in the engine well and have the left inner fender and core support finished, so far over 50 holes.
      Thanks
      Pat












    9. #469
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      sw Kansas
      Posts
      1,661
      Country Flag: United States
      I was wondering if something had happened to you! I'm guessing 50 is a beginning.
      It's all part of it but not my favorite.

    10. #470
      Join Date
      Apr 2014
      Posts
      803
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by wfo guy View Post
      I was wondering if something had happened to you! I'm guessing 50 is a beginning.
      It's all part of it but not my favorite.
      I was out of town working at the Miami boat show, still got pay for this hobby ;-)
      Thanks
      Pat

    11. #471
      Join Date
      Apr 2014
      Posts
      803
      Country Flag: United States
      I’ve had a few people ask how I remove the paint, clean the metal and finish off the welds, so I thought I do little right up and some pictures on what has worked for me.









      In the engine bay I have found a heat gun and wirewheel on a drill works great removing the paint and original primer from all the nooks and crannies. I like using a 12” quick change extension to hold the wire wheels. The advantage of the drill over a grinder is you can change the direction of the drill which allows the wirewheel to work more aggressively remove the paint and primer. With the heat gun I blister about 6”x6” of paint and while it is still hot I use the wirewheel to remove that section of paint, it goes quick and no fine dust.








      Here is a before and after of the firewall using only the heat gun and wirewheel.












      Here I’m welding over the wire harness plug hole. After tack welding the cover in place I grind down most of the welds before finishing the welding, this helps keep the heat down and make it easier to connect the weld as thickness of the metal is similar to the welds.









      I like to use a 90 degree Die grinder with 2” 36 grit disc to take the welds down. Keep it moving and always use new disc when working small areas as worn disc will just heat the metal instead of cutting the weld down. When the welds are mostly cut down you can hammer and dolly the panel flat and then finish off the leftover weld with a 60 grit disc.





      Note before hammer and dolly the panel you will need to grind down the weld on the back side!







      The last thing I do is use a 6” random orbital sander with a ¾” foam pad and 100 grit paper to clean the metal.
      Thanks
      Pat

    12. #472
      Join Date
      Sep 2012
      Location
      London, Ontario
      Posts
      294
      Awesome! Love your work.

      73 Maverick Grabber Project

      My never ending project:
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...hlight=grabber

    13. #473
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      sw Kansas
      Posts
      1,661
      Country Flag: United States
      Pat, am I correct in thinking you were trying to save some of the original paint rather than blasting the whole car? Firewall is coming along nicely.

    14. #474
      Join Date
      Apr 2014
      Posts
      803
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by wfo guy View Post
      Pat, am I correct in thinking you were trying to save some of the original paint rather than blasting the whole car? Firewall is coming along nicely.
      All the paint will be coming off, but as this car didn't have much rust I chose not to blast the car only the big parts that came off like the fenders, hood, and doors. Unibody car hold so much media and it is a pain to get it all out.
      Thanks
      Pat

    15. #475
      Join Date
      Apr 2014
      Posts
      803
      Country Flag: United States
      The paint is removed and all the unused holes are welded up in the engine bay and ready for epoxy primer.
      Thanks
      Pat















    16. #476
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      sw Kansas
      Posts
      1,661
      Country Flag: United States
      I'm reminded again that that is a large car. Some things we count square inches. I'm counting square feet for you.

    17. #477
      Join Date
      Apr 2014
      Posts
      803
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by wfo guy View Post
      I'm reminded again that that is a large car. Some things we count square inches. I'm counting square feet for you.
      Yes there is a lot of real estate to cover on this car and I haven't even started the real body work yet :-(
      Pat

    18. #478
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      SF Bay Area
      Posts
      463
      It's a work of art. You should just clear coat that.
      chunger

      '68 Ranchero 500
      '70 Cougar XR-7 Convertible
      '98 Mustang GT Convertible

    19. #479
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Ma.
      Posts
      5,560
      Country Flag: United States
      Wow that's a lot of work done right there! Nice job.
      Wayne
      Car FINALLY home !!!!!! lol
      Project FNQUIK https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=FNQUIK

    20. #480
      Join Date
      Apr 2014
      Posts
      803
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by chunger View Post
      It's a work of art. You should just clear coat that.
      clear would be cool but it will be black ;-)
      Thanks
      Pat

      - - - Updated - - -

      Quote Originally Posted by Motown 454 View Post
      Wow that's a lot of work done right there! Nice job.
      Yes I'm happy it is done!!
      Thanks!
      Pat

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