Where to get stereo wiring?

[rockdogz]

Anyone know a good place online to get stereo wiring supplies? I need to get some RCA wiring to go from head unit to amps, speaker wire, thicker 4 and 8 gauge wire, inline fuses, junction blocks, etc.

Also need opinion on wiring for the amps. I have 2 amps that I'm going to be running, and I was thinking of running 1 gauge wire from the battery to a junction block that will split it off into two 4 gauge wires to feed each amp. Would that be a good plan? Where can I get such a junction block? Do I need an inline fuse on the 1 gauge wire or on each 4 gauge wire?



Next I'm wondering about caps - do I need to run one? I'll have a JL Audio 500/1 amp feeding a single 10W7 sub.

Thanks,

[LowBuckX]

Here is about the cheapest and some nice product too. http://knukonceptz.com/

[68BNUT]

Sounds like you got a pretty good plan on how to run your amps. You could try and find a "fused Terminal block". As far as running a cap, I used to have a vette with a 12w6 running off of a JL 300/1 started out without a cap but eventually with the type of music my wife was listening to and the amp draw it was putting on the car we installed one. Worked like a champ and really helped out on keeping the sub clean sounding.

You could also look at www.onlinecarstereo.com

[Radlark]

Rockdogz shoot me an email! I can help you out!

[rockdogz]

Radlark, email sent... thanks everyone, keep the ideas coming..

[Radlark]

Disregard I think it went thru

[third base]

I would definitly run a 1 farad cap. I have installed some serious sound systems for friends and I tend to "over do it" just in case. I would recomend a 1 farad cap from Pheonix Gold with a remote LCD voltage gauge. I have one in my car (daily driver) because my amp was drawing too uch current and I fried an alternator. The LCD looks awsome at night. not to mention, it tells you what is going on with your system at all times. Another pro with using a cap is that the amplifiers "Should" never struggle for current. this helps with sound quality, amplifier maintenence, no dimming lights when base hits or peak current draws, etc.. What i did with my friends systems is I ran a 0/1 wire - breaker(because he kept blowing fuses) - wire - cap/s - wire - amp/s. If you want pictures of the pheonix gold cap / LCD just let me know. I might be able to get my buddy over here and shoot some pictures of his trucks system if you want those to. hope this helps. any more questions shoot me a pm.

[third base]

oh ya, I like to go with sounddomain.com for wiring. they have a pretty good selection.

[Pro-touring towncar]

Also check Ebay. I have gotten more all my wiring need for the last 3 systems I have build from Ebay. Knukoncepts are really good and great prices too.

Tim

[Richiec77]

I have forgone Capacitors when I started using Bat Caps. They work better, less ESR, and more storage. They only cost a slight bit more, but work better. Not pretty looking, but work quite well.

That set-up sounds Good-to-go for the + side of you PWR. Make sure to treat the ground the same or better than the + side. If you spilt the power like that, a fused block is a good idea if one 4 ga wire could short out, and the main fuse is so big that it won't pop. Fusing is good for show, and is also a safety piece, but sometimes it can be overkill.

For RCA's, you can get Pre-Made or you can make a custom set yourself. Just need Coaxial cable, RCA ends and a soldering iron. And please don't use CAT 5 cable. Regular RCA's work better, and all the hype about the Noise rejection of CAT 5 over RCA Coaxial is unsubstantiated, and has been proven to be the reverse of the claim.

Tim. Got any pics of your ride? I'm very interested in the system. The most unique town car I saw once, had a set of 6" Focal subs glassed in where the Passenger air bag was.