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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Nov 2009
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      250
      Country Flag: Argentina

      Anyone using the - Hobart Handler 140 Welder

      So I am in the market of getting a welder for the first time. actually 1st time using a welder too. Had some schooling done here at work at the machine shop.

      Been looking around and found the Hobart Handler 140 Welder. From the reviews I have found for example here...

      http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...6073_200306073



      Brand: Hobart
      Process Type: MIG, Flux Core
      Welding Amperage Range: 25-140 A
      Input Voltage: 115 VAC
      Weld Thickness: 24 ga. - 1/4 inch - Single Pass
      Duty Cycle: 20% @ 90 A, 19VDC
      Width: 10-3/4 in.
      Length: 19-1/2 in.
      Height: 12-1/2 in.
      Weight: 66 lb.
      Warranty: 5-Year/3-Year/1-Year, Parts & Labor





      It seems to be a very good all day small welding jobs. All I will be doing with it will be replacing the floor pans and maybe adding a mini-tub to the car. Then a few extra things here and there, but nothing major.

      Would this be enough for that?
      Thanx for the help.

      Sebastian



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Nov 2005
      Location
      Little Rock, Arkansas
      Posts
      945
      It will be perfectly adequate for that use. I have one and so does my brother in law. As a matter of fact, it's his welder of choice in the shop for his body work. You'll want to spend the money to go ahead and set it up for gas use when doing the body panels. The flux core stuff just doesn't work well for thin metals and, besides, you'll get a much prettier weld with a gas shielded puddle.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Nov 2009
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      250
      Country Flag: Argentina
      Yes I was reading about the gas, and that is why i was looking at this one as it comes with the option for the gas. Which i will get here when the time comes.

      Haha! I feel like going now and putting this on a CC, but no, rather wait till I have the $$$

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Nov 2007
      Location
      Dayton, Ohio
      Posts
      443
      Country Flag: United States
      I have one, no complaints. It does what I need it to do. Works fine on .120 wall tube and sheetmetal. Thicker stuff will require chamfering and/or multiple passes. I tend to chamfer most anything thicker than sheetmetal anyhow.
      Roger

      69 Mustang coupe, under construction
      2011 Mustang - DD
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...ang-SuperCoupe

      Freedom Of Speed!




    5. #5
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Posts
      1,869
      i love mine! check tractor supply they sell them cheap i paid 400.00 for mine off eaby (New)

      AND BTW if you get it they ship it ready for Flux core.. you will need to swap polarity for Gas.. which is the only way to go..
      From a place you will not see comes a sound you will not hear....

      67 Camaro In progress

      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...-Tap-67-camaro

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      Jonesboro, Arkansas
      Posts
      2,506
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by XLexusTech View Post
      i love mine! check tractor supply they sell them cheap i paid 400.00 for mine off eaby (New)

      AND BTW if you get it they ship it ready for Flux core.. you will need to swap polarity for Gas.. which is the only way to go..
      OK, I have one of these too. I was using the flux core wire then went and bought the bottle and using solid wire. I've as of yet to get this thing to weld correctly. I have used every setting I can think of and nothing seems to work right. Then I come across this (above) "you will need to swap polarity for gas..." What is this? I haven't swapped polarity on anything. Anyone got any insight on this, or how to do it?

      thanks,
      Carl

      Carl Wilson
      1968 Camaro - T-56 6 speed - 383 Stroker, 2014 Mustang GT seats. FiTech EFI, Tanks Inc. Tank with Deutschwerks fuel pump.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Nov 2009
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      250
      Country Flag: Argentina
      You need to switch the cable inside. Lift the side cover where the table of thicknesses and the suggested settings is, there you will see (as well) what and where to change polarity.

      Any questions keep asking

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      Jonesboro, Arkansas
      Posts
      2,506
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by sebtarta View Post
      You need to switch the cable inside. Lift the side cover where the table of thicknesses and the suggested settings is, there you will see (as well) what and where to change polarity.

      Any questions keep asking
      Well I'll be...There it is! After I change and try again I'll post results. Probably this weekend..

      thank you

      Carl Wilson
      1968 Camaro - T-56 6 speed - 383 Stroker, 2014 Mustang GT seats. FiTech EFI, Tanks Inc. Tank with Deutschwerks fuel pump.

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Nov 2009
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      250
      Country Flag: Argentina
      Thank you, yes Tractor supply here close to home have them. I might have to order online and pick up at the store.

      I will order the gas from there too.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      I have an older version of that welder...the Handler 135


      Great lil machine for what it is....a little machine.

      If ya need mo powah, get a larger machine, but for most things car related it does fine. rarely do you run into heavy materials on a car....although if you need to weld thick aluminum you might want to swap up to the next model and get the 185 or larger....for mild steel, it does great.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    11. #11
      Join Date
      Nov 2009
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      250
      Country Flag: Argentina
      honestly all i might be doing is a mini tub and maybe the firewall delete.

      I might do a few more things like the exhaust etc....but nothing crazy.

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Nov 2007
      Location
      Dayton, Ohio
      Posts
      443
      Country Flag: United States
      Here's mine, got it locally at Weiler Welding 4 years ago for just under 500 with a bottle, a spool of flux core and a spool of .020 wire which I just recently ran out of and replaced.
      Roger

      69 Mustang coupe, under construction
      2011 Mustang - DD
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...ang-SuperCoupe

      Freedom Of Speed!




    13. #13
      Join Date
      Nov 2009
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      250
      Country Flag: Argentina
      Quick question. Yesterday I was trying to fix my friends chassis.

      But every time we went to weld we found our selves melting the metal chassis.

      I lowered the voltage to 1 and the wire speed to 10. This is with flux core wire .30mm, and manage to more or less cover a small hole.

      Would it be recommended to use the gas with the solid wire .20mm for welding on the chassis?
      Last edited by sebtarta; 09-27-2010 at 03:39 AM. Reason: mixed up the wires

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Oct 2005
      Location
      Odessa mo.
      Posts
      925
      Country Flag: United States
      Never use the flux core with gas. It's hard to say exactly what dia. wire to use without knowing the thickness of the metal your'e welding. I have the miller version of this at home and mostly use .023 wire in it I do have .030 for thicker materials though.

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Nov 2009
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      250
      Country Flag: Argentina
      Quote Originally Posted by mikey View Post
      Never use the flux core with gas. It's hard to say exactly what dia. wire to use without knowing the thickness of the metal your'e welding. I have the miller version of this at home and mostly use .023 wire in it I do have .030 for thicker materials though.
      Yes, made a mistake on my post. I mixed up the wires. I meant to say solid not flux.

      Going to try with the solid .23mm The gauge of the chassis is about 20-18 gauge

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      I welded in my floor pans with .030" E71-T11(self shielded flux cored wire)...and it did great...ran the voltage on 3 and the WFS somewhere around 45-50...the trick was to let it blow a hole then keep feeding the puddle so that it filled the hole as you travelled along....the resulting bead was full penetration with a slight reinforced bead on the bottom side and fairly flush on top.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    17. #17
      Join Date
      Nov 2009
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      250
      Country Flag: Argentina
      Thank you will try that too then.

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Dec 2009
      Posts
      34
      I have that welder, it's a good work horse.turn it on and go with minimum drama.

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Jul 2012
      Location
      eden ga
      Posts
      679
      Country Flag: United States
      I like mine also

    20. #20
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Dunwoody, GA
      Posts
      4,984
      Country Flag: United States
      What a timely thread. I was coming here to search for info on these as the local ACE has started caring them, but I didn't know anything about them. Sounds like they could really be an economical option for me. I, like most of you, only want to do simple car related stuff like panel replacements or fabbing some sheet metal components. I would want to be able to weld in sub frame connectors and maybe even headers but that wouldn't be often. Anyone tried that with the 140? I think it might be pushing the limits welding in SFC's to the car.

      Thanks
      Trey

      "The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese."
      ~ Jon Hammond

      1979 WS6 Trans Am stock LT1/T56 drive train out of my Formula. BMW M-parallel rims. C5/C6 brakes

      build thread https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=begins

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