Welding improvement

[parsonsj]

Hey guys, here's a welding sample (stainless steel exhaust) from this past weekend. I want to give some credit to Matt@RFR, because his posts about heat, color, correct rod, etc. have been useful for me. My welding has really improved recently, and I appreciate the help.

jp

[Nine Ball]

lol, your welding improved AFTER you completed the fab work on the car? hehe

I think you got a LOT of practice there, bud.

Tony

[parsonsj]

LOL.

I'm mostly talking about aluminum and stainless. Low carbon and 4130 steel is a lot easier to get high quality welds, at least for me. But I do look at my cage and wish I could re-do it. It's only the paint that stops me.

jp

[Matt@RFR]

Thanks John. Hopefully you're not the only one progressing. Settings?

And I have to ask...what's the inside look like?

[parsonsj]

Settings: 35A, 11 CFH Argon on torch, 4-5 CFH Argon back purge (as low as my regulator will go and still flow something), .040 tungsten, .040 filler, 3/8" stickout, gas lens.

Inside of tube looks like the outside, though the original edges are visible in places and the stacking effect is less prevalent.

jp

[Matt@RFR]

Why so low on the torch argon? Whatever the reason, it seems to work.

Most of the time when you have inconsistent penetration on something like this, if you feel amperage was consistent, it's because you start out with a travel angle near perpendicular to the work, and as you go arond the tube, travel angle increases to a point that the arc (penetration) is almost tangent with the tube if you let it go that far. It's a bitch.

It may help you to stand the tube up vertically. That lets you kind of walk around the tube as you weld, keeping travel angle consistent. Unfortunately, most of the time header tubes won't work in a positioner due to their odd shapes.

[parsonsj]

You're right about the angle of the tube. I try to roll my wrist as I work up the tube so that the arc is perpendicular, but that's difficult at best and often impossible.

Torch argon comes come my handy-dandy Lincoln welding calculator. What value do you use when welding stainless tube (.049 or .065)?

jp

[Matt@RFR]

Yep. Small tube welding is definetely an aquired skill, no matter what process is used. Stick is the worst.

I flow 15cfh at the torch, but that's with a #8-#10 cup. Cup size makes a difference here. (My girlfriend taught me that. )

For back gas, I generally flow 5cfh. The way I do it is set my regulator to like 30-40cfh, and I have a ball valve at the end of my purge hose. That way you can go WOT with the ball valve and fill the weldment quickly, then back it off and watch the regulator until it hits 5cfh.

[68protouring454]

man you really are the hero welding guru.
KUDOS TO YOU MATT, for being so handy with a welder

[Matt@RFR]

Thanks for teaching me everything I need to know.

[Nine Ball]

A local shop closed their doors a couple weeks ago. I'll be picking up a 1-year old Miller Econo-TIG setup from him for $1K with rods and accessories. Yeah, its a barebones system without any fancy controls, but it should be okay for doing exhaust, turbo piping, and rollcages. I really want an inverter type that runs on 120V, but those are over $2500. At least I can give this Miller a shot and see if it works for me, and I could always sell it for what I paid for it later I suppose.

Anyone with experience using the Econo-TIG Miller?

[Matt@RFR]

In reality, that should do everything you need on an automotive project. It'll be able to weld 1/8" aluminum...possibly 3/16" butt welds.

I've never used that particular model, but I can tell you two things up front: 1) The fixed duration post flow will eat up a bunch of gas. My old Synchro 180SD was set at 15 or 18 seconds! The most you would ever need is around 6-8 seconds for steel and aluminum. 2) If you get stuck with an air cooled torch, you'll soon want to throw it off your roof (highly recommended!). Invest in a water cooled torch if you have the resources, and you'll never look back. Plus, the torch can stay with you as (if) you move to a bigger machine.

[parsonsj]

Tony,
Are you sure that model has AC? If not, you won't be able to weld aluminum.

jp

[Matt@RFR]

Econo TIG

[parsonsj]

LOL. Shows how well I know the Miller line. I thought the Synchrowave was their bottom of the line AC machine.

Tony, looks like a good bargain.

jp

[68protouring454]

i have seen those for 5-700 a bunch of times used, that is getting up there, you can buy a used miller 180sd or a lincoln 175 tig for 1,000-1,400 used and will be way more machine although it will need 220, 50 amps
jake

[Nine Ball]

One good thing is that I know the seller, and he takes care of his stuff. He is also including everything but the bottle, plus spare rods and torch parts etc...

[HotRod4PaPa]

Hey Matt. I have a 180SD, and yes, it does eat up gas! Can the post flow be reset to 6-8 seconds on this machine? Also, would it be very difficult and expensive to switch this machine over to water cooled? Thanks for any help you guys can give me.

[parsonsj]

I can't recommend a water-cooled torch enough, especially if you're welding aluminum. My Johnny Cheapass solution was to buy a water solenoid from Lincoln and connect it to the gas solenoid. So when there is gas flow, I have water flow. I tapped in to my house cold water supply and stuck a ball valve in between it and the welder and put the output back into the waste plumbing. No expensive chiller or fluid required.

Before a welding session, I open the ball valve to let cold water flow to the solenoid, then while welding the water flows (when gas is flowing) through the torch and on to the drain. I've done a lot of welding since then and haven't noticed any difference in my water bill (even when my power bill goes up from a lot of welding). When my welding session is done, I close the ball valve. It's no big deal: when I open the main bottle valve, I open the water valve. When I close the main bottle valve, I close the water valve.

The advantage is a cheap water-cooled torch, the downside is that I'm using tap water. Eventually it will put deposits in the torch and I'll have to clean them out with vinegar or something. Also, it limits where the welder can go: it can't be moved any farther than the length of the water lines.

But still: recommended.

jp

[Matt@RFR]

I believe that the 2003 and newer 180SD's have adjustable post flow, but don't hold me to that year.

Water cooled torches not only let you weld longer at higher amps, they are WAY smaller too. You can manuever them much more easily, and they just look cool.

Another, slightly more expensive, way to go about a home brew water system is this:

Buy this pump.
Build a water tank. 4-5 gallons.
Plumb torch to pump and tank.
Fill tank with distilled water and add a gallon of Miller's additive.
No valves are needed.

Or, if you have the money, the Coolmate 3 is the real deal, and really does work much better than most home brew setups. However, you wouldn't notice the difference unless you used it for a few hours straight.