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    Results 1 to 9 of 9
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Nov 2013
      Posts
      10
      Country Flag: United States

      Evercoat polyester primer??

      Doing my Charger very soon and I've heard good things out of the slick sand and super build primers by Evercoat but I have no experience with them. They're both very thick primers that should greatly speed up the blocking process. Just like anything else they sound like the best way to go but I want to do some home work first. Has anyone out there every used the stuff? Did it work well? Did it hold up down the road?



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Oct 2005
      Location
      Odessa mo.
      Posts
      925
      Country Flag: United States
      Slick dries like concrete it's nice if you like polishing concrete........ nobody I know likes it

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Nov 2011
      Location
      Riverton, Wyo,
      Posts
      330
      Country Flag: United States
      I research this a while back, I met the original feather fill back 20 years ago. The stuff was curing in the gun as I sprayed it. They say the new stuff is easier sanding. I skipped out on this product and went with regular k38 urethane. My personal opinion is that your bodywork should be good enough that you should be able to use a regular high build urethane primer and just block it out a couple of times. Maybe just take a piece of 80 grit and go sand the garage floor then make your final decision.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,826
      Country Flag: United States
      I like Z-Chrome Rust Defender. Costs more but Ring Brothers uses it if that makes you feel better....

      http://www.ebay.com/itm/111244052104...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      Cypress, TX
      Posts
      330
      Country Flag: United States
      Is Epoxy still required with the Z-Chrome Rust Defender?
      A day late and a dollar short!

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Aug 2009
      Location
      Charlotte, NC
      Posts
      171
      Country Flag: United States
      Call SPI. Southern Polyurethanes- I'm using some of there products but he give tons of info on what and why and doesn't discuss brands..

      He has limited lines on colors but has superior products in primer and clear...
      Eric

      67-GTO project in process
      Charlotte, NC

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,826
      Country Flag: United States
      It is intended to be applied over bare metal since it has rust inhibitors in it. I applied it over bare metal on my 57 Belair and it adhered well. It can be applied over epoxy too.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Location
      Li,Ny
      Posts
      64
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by dhutton View Post
      It is intended to be applied over bare metal since it has rust inhibitors in it. I applied it over bare metal on my 57 Belair and it adhered well. It can be applied over epoxy too.

      Don
      Spies Hecker makes a great spray poly very easy to sand

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Location
      jacksonville,fl
      Posts
      972
      Country Flag: United States
      So far I've only used the evercoat G-2 on my fiberglass hood, underhood cover, & on top of the skimcoat of filler on my handmade aluminum bedcover. These types of product require a 2.2 or larger tip to be sprayed. I modified the tip of a cheap harbor freight traditional gun & also use their plastic can liners for easier cleanup. Product does add a little strength over basic body filler, very minimal shrinkage & the as sprayed texture makes it work as a guidecoat when sanding. I used self etching primer in spots where I had aluminum showing, would do the same on steel. Product must have 2k or other primer over it to seal it. I still have it raw on my underhood cover, which I ran out of time on & never got back to. In a mad rush to get the underhood cover decent for an upcoming show, it paid for itself timewise over many additional applications of regular fillers.

      There are several other brands such as the claussins z-chrome, & the high end basf stuff. I'd say there all a great help for a block sanding when used correctly. A local shop to me ,Elite auto body, which is a member here, uses it with great lasting results.
      My custom hood pictured below ,was torn to pcs when the top came unglued from the base at highway speeds. As with all fiberglass repairs things are slightly starting to show through in spots after 4 years of heat cycles, but the g-2 has kept in pretty minimal compared to previous repair work I,ve done.




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