champion radiators

[chpr1972]

does any one have a 4 core champion radiator in their 64 67 chevelle does it run cool Does a 4 core slow air flow too much at an idle that itcan cause overheating or is that a griffin old wifes tale to sell their radiators

[SparkyRnD]

Not sure about Griffin, but our radiators are the same thickness as a 4-core and don't have problems cooling at idle, even without a shroud.

[real57vetteguy]

I am running a champion 3 core in my 65 Olds 442. Champion guaranteed me that it would cool 750 HP.........BS. They answered my calls and even called me when I was looking to buy one, after I bought it I sent 5 emails and left 4 voice mails and never got a response. It does not cool my .30 over 455 at all. I am running a shroud and dual 12" fans, I now am buying a flowkooler water pump and stronger fans to see if it helps if not I'm going to throw the POS POS POS POS in the trash

[MonzaRacer]

Most people over expect and get under performance of their cooling system. Take this from a guy who kept a solid lifter 327 cool with a 3 row Monza radiator and also kept a mild 350 cool with a single non air 4 cyl radiator from an 86 Ranger, read that as VERY small radiator.
Cooling has more to do with water flow, air flow and heat control/movement.
My Range was my second 350 powered 86 Ranger. The first one had a 2 or 3 row nova radiator and sort of stayed cool.
Heck it was even running a 4 blade 62 Chevy 235 stovebolt 6 solid fan, ie not lot of air movement.
I could run in summer heat or winter cold, no issues.

Hey real57vetteguy, again Ill post up some suggestions:
1: First HOW hot is it getting is the actual question as most people dont understand thermal dynamics and panic at 210 or 220, which in Earth terms the system is just getting efficient (hence another reason most new cars run that hot and it helps emissions).
2: Moving air or water at the wrong speed, not letting it function as a heat exchange medium also makes cars overheat. Air too fast, water too slow OR too fast and improper thermostat design. The older flat 'stats are nearly junk for performance, look for the thicker design Robert Shaw design like Autozone used to carry. I think Mr Gasket has them. And those are pressure balanced against water pump pressure, which affects opening temp.
3: www.evanscooling.com get some NPG+ and since you already use E/G and water you will need some flush too, boiling point with no pressure is 375deg never really freezes at -40deg and nearly never needs to be flushed/changed as it never goes bad like E/G and water.

Good Luck, oh and the flowkooler pump is pretty good piece and has MUCH more efficient impeller and flow design. As for fans I have seen some run real fast, move lots of air and never help. Look for a low noise fan that literally acts like its gonna suck you car forward over a super fast speed. CFM means much more than RPM.

[MonzaRacer]

OK forgot to equate copper/brass over aluminum rads.
Copper/Brass are stiffer, more resilient to vibration,expansion,corrosion from water or other components. One caveat they use lead based solder, some make mistake in bashing this. Also one GOOD thing is they use lead solder so easy to patch holes.
Another mistake on radiator shop repairs,,,they must be painted. This supports and dampen any vibration/other issues from expansion/contraction.
Solid, efficient and sturdy.

Aluminum rads came into vogue after copper/brass became more expensive AND manufacturers started looking for lighter materials. Biggest issue was attaching tanks yet still allowing dis-assembly for repair or cleaning. Hence the start of plastic(nylon 66) tanks that are crimped on.
I have seen couple of the older ones with crimped on tanks in aluminum.
But weight savings on plastic over aluminum sold OE on them.
Repairing aluminum calls for different methods. I use a product called Stick-tite from Bar-Bee radiator supply to fix pin holes/damage.
Now all aluminum with welded tanks you need either a rod like durafix.com or a tig welder on tanks or seams, or the Stick-tite for core repairs.
Also aluminum does work very well for a heat exchanger and current welding/soldering/joining methods the last 30yrs of aluminum rads have nearly perfected production.
And aluminum is more cost effective, works well if maintained.
NOW the biggest issue was when GM/Havoline started making Dex-Cool, its two organic acids are used to inhibit corrosion that take place of silicates are sebbacate (sp) and 2EHA. Mixed wrong, they made Dex-crud that gray slime early Dex treated cars got.
AND 2EHA is a plasticizer used in production of uhmmm PLASTIC. so under heat and pressure it degrades the plastic parts in engines (VW 2.0 4 cyl has/had plastic impeller water pumps completely disintegrate impellers in new bugs, trashing engines, as they got Dex-cool designed coolant) also it sludges if car gets air in system as coolant ages.
Ford uses a hybrid organic acid technology their coolant has no issues over Dex-crud and is designated Ford gold G-05 and is Ford extended life coolant with better results over Dex.

Some systems actually cool better on copper/brass rads, they are more damage resistant, but smaller tubes DO resist air flow and makes much more than a 4 row rad air flow negative.
Some systems work better with aluminum, they are lighter, cheaper due too copper/brass prices being super high. Bad thing is the plastic tanks, good thing is that they restrict air flow less as heat rejection due to fin design, only needing 1,2 or 3, 3/4 or 1 in tubes (more area/less thickness) to perform as good or better.
Finding the issue causing a system to NOT function properly is first and foremost. THEN replace the part/s required.

Again the best coolant around www.evanscooling.com order NPG+.