66 Chevelle 18x8 fronts won't fit after install of SC&C AFX package????

[jamier2]

My car is a 66 Malibu Coupe. SC&C AFX kit.

I researched for weeks, and read through multiple threads to decide which wheels and tires to put on my car. I ended up with:

Ridler 695 wheels and Hankook Ventus EVO V12 tires
18x8, 0 offset/4.5" BS and 245/45/18 front
18x9.5, 6offset/5.5" BS and 275/40/18 rear

They fit and looked awesome, just like everyone said they would….. until I put on my suspension kit.

Took the car for alignment today so I can drive the dang thing and it is not even close to right!!??!?!? Top of the tire is tucked but literally you can't put your pinky between the tire and the fender (I do have inner fenders, and I have fairly small pinky fingers).

I'm kind of stumped at this since I have read multiple people saying they fit 18x8, 4.5" BS wheels on lowered 66s, but mine will not fit. I do have C6 disc brakes from KORE3 but I doubt that makes much difference on how the wheels sit - the disc seems to be similar thickness to the old drum hat.

Any ideas as to why mine won't fit when so many others have had success would be great.

If I can't figure out how to make them fit I am guessing I have two options:



1. Buy matching 18x7 or 17x7 front wheels and just accept much smaller front tires.

2. All new wheels and new front tires. I have been using a calculator and I can use a 18x9 front with 30 offset (6.2 BS) and matching tire to what I have on the rear and it will bring the tire away from the fender about 1.1" from where it is now. These are the new AmericanRacing BLVD wheels and I love them but apparently they aren't in stock sometimes. I really hate to eat $1200 on my old wheel/tire setup too.

[kevmurray]

My car is a 66 Malibu Coupe. SC&C AFX kit...

When you say the fender clearance is tighter than your pinky finger do you mean...

1) ...on the outside? If so this may be due to positive camber and will be corrected with the adjustable UCA's during the alignment.

2) ...on the inside? If so this may be due to excessive negative camber and will be corrected with the adjustable UCA's during the alignment.

3) ...on top? If so how much spacing did you install in the LCA's? The SPC arms were meant to use spacers to get the correct height in all but the most extreme lowering scenarios.

[jamier2]

When you say the fender clearance is tighter than your pinky finger do you mean...

1) ...on the outside? If so this may be due to positive camber and will be corrected with the adjustable UCA's during the alignment.

2) ...on the inside? If so this may be due to excessive negative camber and will be corrected with the adjustable UCA's during the alignment.

3) ...on top? If so how much spacing did you install in the LCA's? The SPC arms were meant to use spacers to get the correct height in all but the most extreme lowering scenarios.

1 - yes, on the outside, and this is after the alignment to Mark's specs.

3 - I have spacers I could use but if anything I'd like the front a bit lower so I'm hoping to keep the height as it is.

I have read that the drum front has a more narrow track width and that would explain the issue I'm having. The alignment shop is going to make the camber more negative so I can at least get it home and I will have to see what the next step will be. I'm just about certain I'm going to get new wheels 18x9 with +30 offset (6.2 BS) and use a small spacer if needed to get it right. I used an online wheel comparison tool and they should move the face inboard about 1.1-1.2 inches - I think 0.75-1 inch would get them back to where they need to be.

[MrQuick]

what are your camber number at now?

Do you trust your alignment guy? I have seen a few shops fake the readings cause they don't want to do the work adding shims.

You maybe able to have the wheel centers machined a bit? 1/4" might help.

[jamier2]

what are your camber number at now?

Do you trust your alignment guy? I have seen a few shops fake the readings cause they don't want to do the work adding shims.

You maybe able to have the wheel centers machined a bit? 1/4" might help.

Both good things to check. The camber numbers are right, I looked at it on the alignment machine, one side was set at Mark's "Street" 0 camber and one was at the "Performance" -1/2 degrees camber. The awesome thing about the UCAs I have is there are no shims needed, easy as pie to adjust to any specs. They are going to really crank the camber to get the tires tilted in (like I had them when I put them on, but not on purpose) so I can drive it home until I get my wheels figured out.

I would consider the wheel center machining, but they don't have that much clearance from the C6 brakes as they are and I think they would hit before I got enough clearance to use them. I think I'd need an inch of clearance between the fender and outside of the tire to make it safe? The new wheel set up should put me at about 1.5" clearance if I don't space them any. I think I will try them as is and add spacer if needed later.

My lesson is learned. Mark at SC&C told me I would probably need at least 5" maybe 5.5" backspacing to clear...

[1989GTA]

On my 1965 Buick Skylark I have Nitto 245/45ZR17's up front with 5" of backspacing. I still have a little rubbing under certain situations. I should have gone with 5.25" of backspacing and used a spacer if need be. My alignment is 1/16" toe in, 1 degree camber and 5 degree castor.

[jamier2]

On my 1965 Buick Skylark I have Nitto 245/45ZR17's up front with 5" of backspacing. I still have a little rubbing under certain situations. I should have gone with 5.25" of backspacing and used a spacer if need be. My alignment is 1/16" toe in, 1 degree camber and 5 degree castor.

How wide are your wheels? I'm glad to hear since I'm expecting to be set up similar. Is there any chance you know how far the tire/wheel is from the fender?