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    Thread: Tri-Mode Amp

    1. #21
      Join Date
      Feb 2009
      Location
      Laramie, WY
      Posts
      552
      Country Flag: United States
      IIRC the first Orion HCCAs where 25x2 and needed a bridging module. the later where 50x2, 50x4, 100x2 and 100x4. They where the cheater amps of the day. still great amps. I currently have PPI 2025am ( purchased new in 1990) PPI 2050m, PPI A200, A300, and a old school PPI 2150m. and my US Amps USA150x

      Tim

      1971 Buick Sportwagon pro-touring project.
      1985 Ford Crown Victoria 2 door next project.


    2. #22
      Join Date
      Jul 2013
      Posts
      71
      Country Flag: United States
      Nothing wrong with going for a show look. I did the same thing.


    3. #23
      Join Date
      Jul 2006
      Location
      beaverton oregon
      Posts
      392
      Country Flag: United States
      i have only seen a couple amps run in tri mode well a few times. along with the orion hcca's, there was the phoenix gold mps series. not the ms, but the mps. i have been looking for used ones for a long time, super rare, but was about the best of the best for the old school cheater amps. i miss the old days.
      Scott R. (vinny)

      misha widebody SL55 highly modded
      -67 camaro ttls/viper t56, 350z irs, full frame, in the works
      -porsche cayenne turbo 175hp added over stock
      -other crap that just hauls me around!

    4. #24
      Join Date
      Feb 2009
      Location
      Laramie, WY
      Posts
      552
      Country Flag: United States
      Scott R I would look on Ebay for Phoenix Gold MPS. I have seen them on there every once in a while. may take time to find just the one you want.

      Tim
      1971 Buick Sportwagon pro-touring project.
      1985 Ford Crown Victoria 2 door next project.

    5. #25
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Southern Indiana
      Posts
      4,709
      Country Flag: United States
      I wound up with a rare Marantz amp.
      Turns out only 1500 were made. But I agree, bridging sucks for sound quality.
      I use Madisound right now for parts. Proper first order crossing is best way to get good sound for best price and lack of complexity.
      Figure most 10" sub's operate best at under 100 hz so order up between 6.4 and 7 Mh coils in positive side and mount them solidly.
      Using caps and crossing any decent 6x9 above 100 hz is plenty of protection.
      I had a great book I got at Radio Shack of all places on building boxes and doing math for stereo setup many moons ago. Guess need to go dig it up, might still be in print.
      I have built HUGE systems and never used more than caps and coils.
      My 71 Monte had 2 10" Blaupunkt pro components sub's ran free air, RMS input 100w @ 4 ohms, Marantz made 90@4ohms but is 1 ohm stable.
      Had 4 out of possible 5 amp blocks, see power supply for amp blocks is made separate. Certainly kept parts cooler than regular amp.
      I do have a Kenwood exelon (sp) sub amp, supposedly like 600w, or so. But previous owner was idiot who THOUGHT he was pro installer. Blew something up. Did find two resistors blown off board. Really guess I should get it in shop as soon as I can afford it. Then I'll probably sell it.
      Lee Abel
      AFTERMARKET PERFORMANCE

      1977 Chevy Monza 2+2:Project "Cheap Trick"
      1978 C10 Long bed , On air and trailer puller
      2006 Buell Blast ,Just a bike to ride and for mileage
      1966 Caprice 4dr Sports Roof fact.327/now 350/SOON 454???? Project "II Old,,,ZERO BUDGET OR LESS CAPRICE!"

    6. #26
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Posts
      448
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by MonzaRacer View Post
      I have built HUGE systems and never used more than caps and coils..
      With the cost of modern processors (mini-dsp or the awesome pioneer prs80's native processing) you really can't match the sq of them by just using caps and coils. You'll have greater adjustability with your slopes, proper eq'ing and time alignment... all per channel in an active setup. the pioneer head unit is ~$260 and is an all in one package, the mini dsp will cost you ~$160 and can be added to any system. Passive was king 10 years ago maybe. But the cost of watts per dollar now adays and the relatively inexpensive processors, you can't come close to it. You could build a hard to beat; fully active, sq set up for $800-$1000
      Scott
      '66 Chevelle

    7. #27
      Join Date
      Mar 2006
      Location
      California City Ca.
      Posts
      398
      Quote Originally Posted by overZealous1 View Post
      i have only seen a couple amps run in tri mode well a few times. along with the orion hcca's, there was the phoenix gold mps series. not the ms, but the mps. i have been looking for used ones for a long time, super rare, but was about the best of the best for the old school cheater amps. i miss the old days.
      yup i had an mps2220 running the old mb quarts in the doors and dash and 2 8 inch polk subs back in the day. my buddy chis tuned it all in my hoda and it sounded really good.
      Dale Hayes
      87 turbo t
      turbonetics t60, pet stock location intercooler, ride tech coilovers, rjc exhaust, 60lb injectors with tt chip, ported heads and intake, ported tb, baer brakes, roh 17 inch wheels....now need to finish paint and get it put back together.

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