1970 Trans Am Project

[jtwoods4]

Sweet! Do you have a time frame on that build? Ive thought seriously about staying with a 400 and doing almost the same thing. I had Dave@ SD performance spec me a 400 build a year or so ago. It used his stump puller hydraulic roller and 290cfm KRE D ports and an RPM intake. He was claiming they usually end up in the 500-525hp range and 525-550 ft lbs of tq with a long flat curve.

the time frame on my build is about six to eight months. jim lehart at Central Virginia machine services is building the engine for me. he is a very popular pontiac builder and there is a little bit of a wait but he does a great job.last year he built a 461 stroker for my 69 GTO and it is insane.



I am sure SD performance would also build a very nice engine. I have those kre heads on my 461. we went with the 246/248 can and ported the heads to 330 CFM and used the Torker 2 intake.

[ks71z28]

sorry I haven't posted in a few days. took a little break while waiting on parts to come in. front disc brakes should arrive this Wednesday. install the subframe connectors last week here's a picture.

Subframe connector Video link



Attachment 82801

John,

It was my pleasure to put the brake kit together for you. What you forgot to mention is the kit cost $400 plus less than Wilwood and uses better parts where it really counts!

Keith
www.customworksperformance.net

[jtwoods4]

Control Arms Sandblasted and painted. New Afco bushings and balljoint pressed in. Came out nice.



And here is the new upper balljoint installed. I actually removed it and installed it though the top instead of through the bottom like in the picture. I wasn't sure about the torque on the bolts that hold the ball joint in and after doing a little research people are doing between 10 and 20 lbs so I torqued them down to 15 lbs. I hope that's ok :-?



And the final Install

[ks71z28]

John,

that is incorrect on the balljoint. it goes in the top, torque is more like 8#, Please swap those around asap

Keith
Custom Works

Control Arms Sandblasted and painted. New Afco bushings and balljoint pressed in. Came out nice.



And here is the new upper balljoint installed. I actually removed it and installed it though the top instead of through the bottom like in the picture. I wasn't sure about the torque on the bolts that hold the ball joint in and after doing a little research people are doing between 10 and 20 lbs so I torqued them down to 15 lbs. I hope that's ok :-?



And the final Install

[jtwoods4]

Thanks Keith. Since I have already torqued the ball joints to 15 pounds I'm a little concerned about un torquing and retorquing them to 8 pounds.

By the way I will be calling you soon to order that manual brake dual master cylinder.....

[ks71z28]

Thanks Keith. Since I have already torqued the ball joints to 15 pounds I'm a little concerned about un torquing and retorquing them to 8 pounds.

By the way I will be calling you soon to order that manual brake dual master cylinder.....

I would then replace the bolts as you need to move them anyhow, they are so little anyway

[jtwoods4]

Front passenger disc brake installed

[mattyvogt]

awesome build! its funny this week i have been looking for new front brakes for my 67 beaumont i really wanted to keep the 15x8 inch Rally II on the car but looks like the wheels wont clear the wilwood 12.19 inch rotors with the dynapro6 . so then i decided i might as well order some of the year one 17x9 inch Pontiac Rally II this winter, i figured then i can run the forged narrow superlite 6r front brakes. then i just started reading your thread and all my questions you already figured out ! do you mind me asking for a rough ballpark of what the FSL4 front brake kit cost you? also whats the chance a 15x7 Rally II fits over your rear 12.19 rotors ? awesome build cant wait to see the finish product

[jtwoods4]

awesome build! its funny this week i have been looking for new front brakes for my 67 beaumont i really wanted to keep the 15x8 inch Rally II on the car but looks like the wheels wont clear the wilwood 12.19 inch rotors with the dynapro6 . so then i decided i might as well order some of the year one 17x9 inch Pontiac Rally II this winter, i figured then i can run the forged narrow superlite 6r front brakes. then i just started reading your thread and all my questions you already figured out ! do you mind me asking for a rough ballpark of what the FSL4 front brake kit cost you? also whats the chance a 15x7 Rally II fits over your rear 12.19 rotors ? awesome build cant wait to see the finish product

Matt,

I took some pictures for you to show that the 15x8 Rally II will not work with a 12.19 Rotor and the D52 Caliper. These pictures show the test fit on the rear of the car. The wheel will go on but the caliper is just touching the wheel. If you had a 12 inch rotor and the caliper mounting brackets were shortened to match the .19 inch smaller rotor then it would work. However, if the balancing weights on the wheel were in the same area as the caliper then it would not work.

The custom front disc setup from Keith over at Custom Works was $2200 bucks. This is for the completed assembly that just bolts onto the car. Safety wire, spindle mods, custom bracket, etc. Price includes everything completed and ready to go. He also cleaned the spindles and painted them.

Here are your 15x8 and 12.19 rotor pictures. Wilwood says you need at least .080 clearance. With some sort of modification you would be able to make it work. 12 inch Custom Rotor and Custom Caliper mounting bracket.

[mattyvogt]

thanks a bunch that just made my life so much easir!

[jtwoods4]

thanks a bunch that just made my life so much easir!

no problem call kieth over at custom works he is actually running afco brakes now and may recommend that setup he is very knowledgeable and has a quick turnaround time.

[jtwoods4]

FRONT END DONE!!!! SHE IS BACK ON THE GROUND!!!

[jtwoods4]

This weekend I pulled the original engine with 87,000 miles on it. Replacing with period correct 400 setup for road race performance and a tremec 5 speed.

[Roger Poirier]

Me like this car and project. Keep up the good work!

[72BBSwinger]

FRONT END DONE!!!! SHE IS BACK ON THE GROUND!!!

Great build! Love the early T/A's. Also love those swaybar endlinks, infinite adjustments...

[jtwoods4]

Thanks for the kind words 72BBSwinger. Yeah the 70 TA is my dream car

Latest Update. Installed original gauges that were restored by auto instruments and converted to work with MSD distributor.

Also modified the frame the accepts solid bushings in the front. The bushing video has 3 different sections. Before the modification, during, and after.

[Airflow]

This is the first thread I read, here on pro-touring, and wow what a start!
Love your build, it looks awsome. Those swaybar endlinks are way cool

RJ

[jtwoods4]

This is the first thread I read, here on pro-touring, and wow what a start!
Love your build, it looks awsome. Those swaybar endlinks are way cool

RJ

Thank you Airflow. The endlinks are from Pro Touring F-Body, they make a lot of cool aftermarket parts for Camaros and Firebirds. I have also been working with Keith over at Custom Works in California. He has helped me design the brake system. I decided on a Manual Brake setup so I would have more "feel" on track days. Here is the Dual Master cylinder we selected with 3/4 inch bores and 3/16 lines. That size will help lower the amount of pressure required by my leg on the Manual Brake setup.

[Airflow]

That's real cool! So you've got 3/16 lines for both front and rear brakes?

Thank you Airflow. The endlinks are from Pro Touring F-Body, they make a lot of cool aftermarket parts for Camaros and Firebirds. I have also been working with Keith over at Custom Works in California. He has helped me design the brake system. I decided on a Manual Brake setup so I would have more "feel" on track days. Here is the Dual Master cylinder we selected with 3/4 inch bores and 3/16 lines. That size will help lower the amount of pressure required by my leg on the Manual Brake setup.

[jtwoods4]

That's real cool! So you've got 3/16 lines for both front and rear brakes?

Yes that is correct. You can read endless debates online about fluid dynamics and the physics of fluid as applied to brake line sizes. People argue back and forth if the 3/16 th's line actually makes a difference instead of 1/4 inch line that normally runs to the rear.

almost all European race cars used a 3/16 line to the rear. The idea is that with the smaller diameter line there will be more compression and more braking power with a manual setup. people smarter than me recommended the smaller lines I don't really know the physics of it.