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    Results 1 to 13 of 13
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jul 2013
      Posts
      14
      Country Flag: United States

      Building/setting up a watts link

      Anybody have any pointers or links on how to build a watts link and or how it's set up? I've done some searching but it all turns up very vague. Thanks ahead of time



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      New York, NY
      Posts
      458
      Country Flag: United States
      Is your question how to determine roll center height desired or how to fabricate it?

      If it is how to find the height you desire, more details on what type of rear suspension you are running are required.

      If it is how to fabricate it, I would look at the FAYS2 watts link for ideas.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Apr 2009
      Location
      san diego
      Posts
      5,101
      Country Flag: United States
      I built my own you can read through my build thread for ideas and ask specific questions.

      There is a chassis mount pivot and a axle housing mounted swivel. Both have pros and cons. Packaging will probably be your determining factor for your watts link. I chose a chassis mounted pivot point.

      I made mine from aluminum and it weighs 8.4lbs.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Oct 2012
      Posts
      434
      Country Flag: United States
      I think one of the main things I've always wondered is where to get the bearings and link ends, etc etc. I'll jump to your thread and check it out, but I'm always hoping someone throws me a bone on how to choose, bushings or roller bearings, etc etc.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Apr 2009
      Location
      san diego
      Posts
      5,101
      Country Flag: United States
      I am using bronze bearings from McMaster carr. My end links are aluminum rod ends from aurora. my center bell crank is a bolt together design I made. Works great.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jul 2013
      Posts
      14
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Bryce View Post
      I am using bronze bearings from McMaster carr. My end links are aluminum rod ends from aurora. my center bell crank is a bolt together design I made. Works great.
      Which build thread are you talking about and around what page?

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Apr 2009
      Location
      san diego
      Posts
      5,101
      Country Flag: United States

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Apr 2009
      Location
      san diego
      Posts
      5,101
      Country Flag: United States
      it starts on post 282 and ends at 882

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Sep 2012
      Posts
      28
      Country Flag: Finland
      Have you checked Street or Track´s new watts link. I installed one to work with my own design 3-link. I only have one track event, which was finally ruined by failed Toploader, but until then, the suspension worked better than I could ecpect. Shaun is great guy to deal with. Best service I have recieved...

      Antti

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Apr 2007
      Posts
      193
      you can even build a watts link horizontally below the axle pumpkin. Google "modernbeat watts link" for pics of that.
      Also Google Mumford link

      http://www.usa7s.com/forum/uploads/s...t/DSCF1321.jpg

      http://www.usa7s.com/forum/uploads/s...t/DSCF1322.jpg

      http://www.usa7s.com/forum/uploads/s...t/DSCF1323.jpg
      Last edited by iadr; 07-25-2013 at 05:23 AM. Reason: spelling, add image links

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Oct 2012
      Posts
      434
      Country Flag: United States
      The modernbeat watts link seems like it would be limited in overall travel before the link ends would bind, but it is a very neat concept! I could be wrong, it happened once...

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Apr 2007
      Posts
      193
      Quote Originally Posted by mitch_04 View Post
      The modernbeat watts link seems like it would be limited in overall travel before the link ends would bind, but it is a very neat concept! I could be wrong, it happened once...
      You know I re-googled it myself and have to say I forgot a little how it was designed. But as far as how it works...It looks like suspension travel also rotates the propeller just like any other design? Both ends attach to the frame.
      Now one thing with that car it's on- a Lotus 7 replica with motorcycle engine - I think there was a need for a very low roll center, as the car has such a low center of gravity, you want an extreme low roll center so there is some roll, to allow the driver to feel what it's doing and also to allow some degree of tunability. It would be too easy to set that car up and end up with almost no roll.

      http://bossmustangsonline.com/index.php?topic=3140.0 is a good thread with some photos and links.
      I'm surprised how short they make the "propeller" as I call it. I used to have a bit of enthusiasm for Euro rally cars (Volvo's mainly) and they had very long propellers, I guess for extreme suspension travel? Actually (EDIT) the rpropellor turns less than you'd think:
      http://fays2.net/fays2_watts_link_22_.html

      Again, do look into Mumford links. They allow setting the roll center even lower (below ground if you wanted).
      Last edited by iadr; 07-25-2013 at 05:42 AM. Reason: added fays link, corrrected musing on propellor length

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Oct 2012
      Posts
      434
      Country Flag: United States
      There is a great thread on Mumford links that Exwestracer started. Would have to dig a little, but it's interesting.




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