pad knock back issues

[rrelco]

So i went to the RTTC4 and had fun but the pad knock back issue seems to be getting worse, i called my local rear-end shop Coast Driveline and asked about converting the axle tubes to ford style with there tapper bearing, he did say it would be about 2k to do it and i would need to get Ford backing plate for my Wilwood brakes.

He also said he could save me money if he just welds material to the axles itself then grind to make each axle touch the center pin on the carrier, by eliminating the end play he said he has done this many times.

anybody in pro touring have done this or heard of it?

[rsk68]

The only true fix I have seen is full floating rear axles or floating calipers, I went with floating calipers.

[TheJDMan]

I went with the full floating rear axle. Moser sells this 9" floater minus the center section and brakes for $879. It can be ordered in any width and you weld on any brackets you need for your suspension.

http://www.moserengineering.com/circle-track-packages-and-parts/moser-9-full-floater-9.html

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[icemanrd19]

what if you just want to switch to the floater setup using your existing 9" with the dse brackets already connected?

[Jay@GMR]

what if you just want to switch to the floater setup using your existing 9" with the dse brackets already connected?

Here is how it is done. http://thegmr.com/?page_id=1539

[TheJDMan]

what if you just want to switch to the floater setup using your existing 9" with the dse brackets already connected?

Any competent machine shop can cut off the old ends and weld on the new snouts. The real secret is to use an alignment tool to make sure the snouts are welded into your housing straight. You would need these items.

http://www.moserengineering.com/circle-track-packages-and-parts/moser-dbp-hub-packages.html

http://www.moserengineering.com/circle-track-packages-and-parts/5bp-dbp-snout-lh-thread.html

http://www.moserengineering.com/circle-track-packages-and-parts/moser-ct-axles.html

Just for the record, my Moser 9" CT floater now has a little over 5000 street miles on it without a single problem.

Just a piece of advice should you decide to go with a floater setup, DO NOT use the optional inboard axle seals that seem to be very popular. They tend to leak and trap gear oil out in the axle tubes away from the ring and pinion not to mention that hand packing the wheel bearings with grease is messy. These inboard seals are popular in circle track racing where the car is in a constant left turn condition to keep the gear lube in the center section. These same race cars also see much more frequent PM routines. The seals are unnecessary on the street or other application with both left and right turns.

[AutoX_a_Truck?]

I never really had severe pad knock back issues autocrossing. Then I switched to Hawk HP+ pads, which wear pretty quickly. I ran a few autocrosses on them and then went up to Mid-America and had pretty pad knock back. At the next autocross the brakes would hardly even work, which was scary. Turned out the combination of end play and the pads being worn down (but still usable material) was partially to blame. Can't even begin to afford a floater setup so the end play was removed with hardened valve spring shims machined to act a thicker c-clips. Sounds similar to what your shop is suggesting. It helped a lot in my case, but it's only a partial fix because like the posts above say, a floater is the real solution to the problem.

[dontlifttoshift]

Bucks down easiest way out is a floating caliper. While tightening up the axles, with whatever method you may choose, will help it won't cure it all the way. I will admit that the idea of welding the end of an axle to tighten up clearances doesn't sound like a great idea to me, but if it works it works. There was a guy selling thicker c clips in .002" increments.

Me personally, I am partial to the floating hub set up.