View Full Version : LSx 1967 Mustang
After finishing my carbed ls1/t56 1969 camaro i took a break and decided to start a new project.
call me crazy but i am going to swap a 5.3/th400 into this 1967 mustang and keep its rear steering. plan is to run a front sump pan and weld up some custom mounts. it will be a complete budget build... so i think lol. i am still gathering parts for the swap but i dont think i did to bad on the chassis.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/49d7aa84-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/8c0d3e91-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/866fce11-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/07f622b4-1.jpg
the previous owner started the body work on it. It is amazingly straight, very little bondo. the car still sports the original doors and fenders. it was originally an A-code 4bbl small block car and has deluxe interior. The front floor pans are shot from carpet and being stored outside. I am going to perfect my welding and replace them from the seat mounts to the toe boards. more pictures to come.
mikes70
05-19-2012, 08:42 PM
Well this will be a fun one to watch....suspension and brakes too? Love that bodystyle
all on a budget. i lucked out and got a factory 4 piston front disk car. rears will be form a sn95 mustang via 8.8 axle swap. i am trying to sell off all the crap i am not using from this car. so far i am in the hole $1800. we will see how long that lasts!
Sold the crusty old 289 2bbl engine and c4 trans today for $350. glad its gone, now i have room in the corner of the shop for my 5.3 or 6.0 engine.
Car costs so far $1450
No new updates other than pressure washing the front end and taking off the window stainless. man what a bitch that was. the previous owner must have had a leak in his windshield because all of the stainless was packed full of RTV! i couldent get the clips to bend to release the trim. had to muscle most of it out. its not too mangled.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/27d394b9-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/0d12791a-1.jpg
MSTSFabbed
05-24-2012, 06:06 AM
Nice! You don't have to win LS fans on this site haha! I'm excited to watch!
Nice! You don't have to win LS fans on this site haha! I'm excited to watch!
i like your attitude. i got some flack back in the day about my carbed ls1 in my 69 camaro. it was simple and flawless.
Canton makes a new front sump oil pan that uses the stock gto pick up, i will need one of these and possibly a remote oil filter unless there screw on filter adapter will work. I plan to keep this car FI and run a drive by wire throttle body and silverado/corvette gas pedal along with an ebay PSI stand alone harness. I would love a 4L60E if i can find one cheap, i was promised a th400 from a friend but i doubt he will come through now... more costs for me i guess.
The engine bay is pretty skinny i am most likely going to attempt to run the truck exhaust manifolds but if they wont fit i will switch to LS3 camaro manifolds. they have a more traditional rear exit to them like hookers new swap manifolds but at a fraction of the price.
*ryno*
05-24-2012, 12:22 PM
id be intersted in those slot front wheels if you want to part with those?
id be intersted in those slot front wheels if you want to part with those?
those are my dads old school mags off of his 67 fastback. the matching rears are huge and stick out of the wheel wells. i used to think they were the coolest thing when i was a kid seeing the old mustang jacked up on air shocks lol. i doubt he will sell them at the moment. they are the only 4.5 lug pattern wheels we have.
my car came with a set of 16'' 5 lug v6 mustang wheels from an early 90s model. they look like 5 spoke pony wheels from a 5.0. i have no idea what to do with them? scrap them. craigslist for like $100? they are still mounted on some wasted old tires.
Drewhelm
05-25-2012, 12:07 PM
Very interested in this build as I will be doing something very similar. Building a 67 coupe with a 6.0L and 4L80e and possibly a turbo for my wife.
Very interested in this build as I will be doing something very similar. Building a 67 coupe with a 6.0L and 4L80e and possibly a turbo for my wife.
Nice! I plan on going to a few local yards and looking for a decent 5.3 with lower miles on it.. all on a budget of course!
As far as engine mounts go i will attempt to used the factory 289 frame/control arm mounts and used a plate with ford mounts on it, much like the adapter plates i have in my 69 camaro. looks like ford mounts there engines more towards the middle of the block and chevy mounts them closer to the front. I am assuming i can make the canton front sump pan work mounting it this way. I have 10'' of space between the engine x-member and the stock sway bar. my fathers 67 mustang is getting a 390 FE swap so i have his engine mounts and sway bar i can fiddle with too.
i need a TH400, 5.3, and the oil pan before i attempt mock up.
Z06killinSBF
05-26-2012, 08:21 AM
I'm digging this!! I hear the gto pan and headers will get you close to fitting. I've been knocking the idea around as well!!
malbright
05-26-2012, 09:08 AM
:twothumbsI have to say love the project idea....
But I think I'm more jealous of that garage :twothumbs
I'm digging this!! I hear the gto pan and headers will get you close to fitting. I've been knocking the idea around as well!!
The GTO pans sump is pretty long around 11'' and is has a lot of material in the rear where it bolts to the back of the block. it almost looks like a flipped camaro pan. the canton pan looks exactly like my autokraft pan in my 69 but flipped around. it is supposed to be a budget pan for a nissan 240 swap. summit has the canton for $320. it needs either a remote oil filter or a bolt on adapter that allows you to screw on a filter. all in all parts will be around $500 for everything. pretty steep but its the only option i have unless i want to spend thousands on installing a rack in the car. which i do not want to do.
Im thinking i should just look for a 4l60e. Im going to keep the FI and it would be easier to get the trans to work with a modded pcm. problem is engine and trans combos are like $2000 but an engine and trans seperate is $500. crazy craigslist and junkyard people, i swear.
fordsbyjay
05-27-2012, 11:55 PM
What a waste of a nice Ford. Why don't you just build a bowtie????
What a waste of a nice Ford. Why don't you just build a bowtie????
Have you not seen my "nice" ls1/t56 69 camaro... Been there, done that. Time to move on. Maybe Ill do a mopar next!
E-Vukets
05-28-2012, 12:32 PM
What a waste of a nice Ford. Why don't you just build a bowtie????
I do not get people like this that stress over cars being restored. I thought hot rodding was trying to get the best engine for your car and making it go faster than it did before? Sure it is not the same manufacturer but it makes the car faster and it would have just rotted without him working on it... It was only an A code coupe as well, if it was a boss, Shelby, or even a GT fatback or convert I could see your point.
...if it was a boss, Shelby, or even a GT fatback or convert I could see your point.
exactly. my camaro was a 327/powerglide car. My dads orange 67 fastback is a real 390 GT 4 speed car according to the marty report. its has an aluminum head 390, top loader, and 9'' going in it. pretty nice car, has deluxe interior and a roof console.
anyway! a guy answered my craigslist reply just as i went to lunch today. i picked up a fresh TH400 out of this hot rod. The guy ended up going with a larger 500 big block and needed a more built TH400.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/da2d1349-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/c08bf422-1.jpg
its alot of RED but i can handle it.
scored a 5.3 today! paid $648 for the complete pullout with the gas pedal and the tac module.
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ace_xp2
05-29-2012, 02:53 PM
Nice, 5.3 is definitely where it's at. I always wanted to build an aluminum dart block sbf, but I can pick up two all aluminum l33s (aluminum 5.3s) for the price of the block alone! LS it is.
For the rear axle, just thought I'd mention the explorer option as an alternate to the sn95 axle. It's already set up for leafs (you'll still have to move the mounts),has disc brakes with a easy to work with internal parking drum, and is 31 spline and usually 3.55/3.73 with limited slip. Plus they're everywhere/cheap. Oh, and it's about the right width for a 67 too.
Pressure washed the block and tore it down. I'm going to leave it as is, I don't want to spend the money on gaskets and bolts.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/05/8f1460d1-1.jpg
Z06killinSBF
05-30-2012, 02:47 PM
I'm tuned in to see how the exhaust works out!!
evostilo
05-30-2012, 03:48 PM
Mustang with LS 5.3 = Angry ford fans LOL i love it
rustomatic
05-30-2012, 09:02 PM
I like the idea. I've been considering putting my 302/T5 in my '73 Dodge 4x4, and doing something else in the Falcon. I'll look forward to seeing your progress--it may encourage me to waste more money and time, especially since I'd love to dump my 318 boat anchor. I am partial to the old Ford small block however...
I ordered a complete GTO oil pan set up from improved racing. pan, gasket, bolts, dip stick, windage tray, and pickup tube all came out at the cost of the canton pan. we shall see how it fits in the chassis. after looking at my fathers car, i may have to switch to a big block sway bar for more room.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
the canton pan has some funky dimensions with a huge 14'' kicked out sump.
6.5 system oil capacity
5 5/8 deep by 6 ¾ long by 14” wide front sump
I have a budget mount idea. I ordered some standard chevy ls1 plates with 3 mounting locations. I have a brand new set of energy tall skinny chevy mounts and a repo set of 69 camaro 350 short frame stands. Plan is to cut those up and weld them to the mustang frame. If that fails ill just get a hot rod weld in ls1 mount set. It would take a ton of fab work to make ford mounts work.
Big Eddie
06-03-2012, 06:26 PM
interested to see this one finished!
rickpaw
06-05-2012, 07:19 PM
Just bought a 68 mustang for my new project, and planning to do the same thing. Will be watching this thread.
im waiting on UPS to deliver my mounts and my GTO setup. I only work on the car once a week (Wednesdays) so looks like i will be starting in on more cleaning, destruction, and replacing partial floor pans.
andrewb70
06-06-2012, 11:00 AM
Here is an idea. Many guys on LS1tech that convert Fox body Mustangs to LSx engines end up using the stock Ford modular engine, engine mounts. The Mod Motor engine mounts have almost identical bolt spacing as the LS engine mounts that bolt to the block. You might be able to do the same thing and then use these adapters for older Mustangs:
http://www.davestriblingrestorations.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=11&Itemid=9
Just an idea...
Andrew
started in on my passenger floor pan. man what a pain in the ass to cut the spot welds. i got frustrated and just used an air chisel to peel back the rusty floors. i was amazed o find the galvanized frame rails and rockers in perfect shape. after wrestling with my $30 partial floor i had it screwed in place. I ended up adding a strip of metal between the seat riser and the floor pan. I used spray galv on the frame and pan. I practiced on some scrap with it and it seemed top weld just fine. It started giving me problems in some areas afterward. I have a hefty amount of frame tacks and lap tacks. I need to figure out how im going to shape the metal around the reliefs in the firewall.
what do you all think for a first timer.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/c478e66f-1.jpg
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in the last picture the floors are only screwed in place. i was running out of light and needed to pack it in. ill take more pictures when i finish the job.
my oil pan was mis-delivered today due to a signature requirement... itll be here tomorrow long with my motor mounts.
Here is an idea. Many guys on LS1tech that convert Fox body Mustangs to LSx engines end up using the stock Ford modular engine, engine mounts. The Mod Motor engine mounts have almost identical bolt spacing as the LS engine mounts that bolt to the block. You might be able to do the same thing and then use these adapters for older Mustangs:
http://www.davestriblingrestorations.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=11&Itemid=9
Just an idea...
Andrew
thanks for the heads up andrew. i was going with a similar idea. i was going to use the original frame mounts that bolt in and lay flat plate on top then weld what ever mount i need in. the 4.6 mounts you mentioned are shaped how i wanted to cut up my originals.
all my parts came today! this GTO oil pan is a thing of beauty! its so friggin heavy and solid, i love it.
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https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/305347c0-1.jpg
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here are my block mounting plates i got some an ebay seller. they allow 1'' forward and 1'' back mounting of a standard SBC mount.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/5fb5fc4d-1.jpg
and lastly i ordered a weld up set of SBC street rod style mounts.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/7d09220e-1.jpg
i am going to attempt to cut the tabs down to size and weld them to the old ford mounts that straddle the frame.
85coupe50
06-09-2012, 06:50 PM
Good job on the build so far...
LeighP
06-10-2012, 12:08 AM
I like watching projects that are a little unusual....back in the 80's, a local guy built a hot 69 Mustang fastback with a 427 BBC in it. He did it because he enjoyed the reaction of the faithful to it.
I like watching projects that are a little unusual....back in the 80's, a local guy built a hot 69 Mustang fastback with a 427 BBC in it. He did it because he enjoyed the reaction of the faithful to it.
Exactly! Itll be fun to take it to a car show and have people scratch their heads looking at it. Majority of the pubilc dont know jack about LS engines to begin with.
Looks like the mounts will be a sinch! The ford subframe has two drilled holes per side that hold the factory mounts. If i drill the speedway gussets and sandwitch them to the frame they are damn near the same width of the busing in my mounts. I have plenty of material to position the gussets how i want them.
I also laid under the car and held the oil pan where it should sit in the frame. The front sump is perfect and the rear section clears the steering ram. As long as i can get the engine mounts to line up with the frame the oil pan will work.
Now im wondering if ill be lucky enough to have the th400 line up with the trans x member.
number98
06-10-2012, 05:14 PM
Sacrilege....
SickSpeedMonte
06-12-2012, 12:34 PM
Nice work. I just got done doing the floor on my Monte. I started trying to fab a patch panel and then just bought a repro pan that ended up fitting very well. To put those ribs in the strip you need will be pretty easy. Rig up some 1/8" flat bar stock on the vice, two pieces on one jaw with a space b/w them, and one piece on the other jaw that will fill that space. Clamp down on your sheet, and there you go. Don't trim it to fit until you are done, as the width will shrink when you put the ribs in it.
I used that spray galvanizing too, cold galvanizing compound from Rustoleum. It worked pretty well, especially if you scratch through it with the wire on the MIG right before pulling the trigger. Then you get an immediate puddle instead of letting it pop and spatter until it burns through. I also found that you have to let that stuff dry for a good hour or two if you are going to lap weld, otherwise it all scrapes off as you position and weld the panel on. I've also got seam sealer too, don't want water getting between the lapped areas.
HUGE UPDATE!
the engine found its way between the shock towers! it took about 2 days work and countless attempts pulling the engine and trans combo in and out of the car.
looks like i wasted a bunch of money on parts. i ended up using the 69 camaro 350 short/narrow frame stands to mount the engine. i was originally going to use the speedway mounts but fond out that they were actually too wide and would not allow the engine to do low enough. i then attempted to cut the factory ford mounts apart and try to make a set of short wide chevy energy suspension mounts work. those mounts were a $80 trip to autozone and wasted.
my father and i managed to retain the factory power steering with the placement of the engine. only drawback is i need to fabricate a drop crossmember to support the chassis and protect the oil pan from being the lowest part of the vehicle.
the th400 is pretty huge for the trans tunnel as well. i ended up slicing and 1'' section from the frame rail where the original cross member bolts too. the shape of the trans pan kicked out toward the passenger side and would not allow the engine to square up.
among other things. the factory 5.3 exhaust manifolds will not work. the passenger side has an egr valve casting in it that wont clear the shock tower. the drivers side is pretty tight as well. i will need to get creative with the exhaust or fabricate some sort of log style manifold for it.
also the vortec intake manifold is way too tall and sticks up above the cowl about an 1'' i will need to run a car intake to make the flat hood fit. i am in lock because the front accessory drive for the truck will still work.
here are the pics.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/c4e8a9cb-1.jpg
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Z06killinSBF
06-14-2012, 08:37 PM
Sweet!!!!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/8a38acdb-1.jpg
I scored a set of ls3 vette manifolds. I hope they will fit. They are very short and dump close to the rear exhaust port. The mustang stering gear box will be a pain to work around as well. If not i may have to notch the shock towers a bit for manifolds to clear.
Also for hood clearance issues what do i do? Fork out the money for vette or camaro intake set up or just buy a glass cowl hood? If i go the hood route i doubt i can run the tower braces or montecarlo bar. Carb intake would be too tall as well....
There goes my budget! Lol
Z06killinSBF
06-17-2012, 09:32 AM
Find an LS6 intake. Same flow as the truck intake, LS1 flows a little less.
I will most likely go that route along with a car waterpump with spacers. I have a ls6 fuel rail in my garage i will need new injectors and possibly the ls6 valley tray for pcv. I cut my ls1 block for the mod before i swithd to a carb on my 69 camaro.
Prices sure have changed. Older ls1 induction parts are $$ square port stuff seems way cheaper. But then again ive only searched ebay for parts.
Z06killinSBF
06-18-2012, 11:48 AM
I know a lot of the S10 guys are running the Corvette accy as they fit the narrow engine bays better
nitroracer
06-19-2012, 05:33 PM
If you want to find some headers I hear the windsor and LS have very similar exhaust port spacing, just weld on a new flange. I would double check the measurements though.
not much to report. i got 90% of the passenger side floor in. i am NEVER using that spray galv ever again. for some reason i keep blowing thru the metal when i weld from inside the car. i started stitching from underneath and got beautiful welds.
as for the dimples in the toe boards, i ordered that section of metal. cost me $19. here is the result.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/962ce9fa-1.jpg
i am going to seal all of the seams with por-15 POR-patch. I used it on the seams in my 69s floors, stuff is amazing.
hookemdevils22
06-20-2012, 09:16 AM
Do the LS6 intake with truck accessories. Here's a write-up (http://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/gm-engine-exhaust-performance-21/ls6-intake-swap-359987/) I followed for my LQ4/LS3 build. Dirty Dingo makes the spacer for cheap if you don't want to fab one. Otherwise it's pretty straight-forward.
Nice build, btw. I just don't think I could go LS in my '67. A Coy would be nice (to keep it all Ford), though you really can't beat the power/$ the GM Gen III/IV family offers.
Do the LS6 intake with truck accessories. Here's a write-up (http://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/gm-engine-exhaust-performance-21/ls6-intake-swap-359987/) I followed for my LQ4/LS3 build. Dirty Dingo makes the spacer for cheap if you don't want to fab one. Otherwise it's pretty straight-forward.
Nice build, btw. I just don't think I could go LS in my '67. A Coy would be nice (to keep it all Ford), though you really can't beat the power/$ the GM Gen III/IV family offers.
thanks for the heads up. i am really rusty when it comes to the fuel injection game with LS engines. i almost popped for an LS2 intake today until i realized that i would be out even more money after buying a throttle body spacer, ls2 fuel rail, and injectors. i am reading that just about every single LS based engine got its own style of injectors? thats just nuts!
to ease my mind i finished up my frankenstein patchwork floor board and started in on my rusty passenger door. this was my first attempt at ever doing a flush welded patch panel. i think i spent a goog hour grinding down the edges of my patch so it would fit flush.
what do you think? pass or fail?
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/92adf870-1.jpg
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I also picked up a harbor freight 14'' chop saw. i plan on getting some square or rectangle 1/8 steel and fabbing up a transmission and front frame crossmember.
baggins
06-21-2012, 04:08 AM
i just finished the mock up part of my aje install on my 65 mustang and set in my 6.0l, it will also be getting a turbo. glad to see more people running the ls in classic stangs
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/20120620_182732-1.jpg
Zachalanche
06-21-2012, 08:28 AM
i just finished the mock up part of my aje install on my 65 mustang and set in my 6.0l, it will also be getting a turbo. glad to see more people running the ls in classic stangs
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/20120620_182732-1.jpg
if everyone keeps putting ls engines in mustangs I might have to switch mine back to ford.
LSxChevelle
06-21-2012, 09:10 AM
My fiance likes the look ofthe old stangs so I told her she can have one if I put a LS in it.
Ratty 46
06-21-2012, 04:56 PM
I'm in on this build ... I'm contemplating running a LS2/6 speed from a '06 gto in my '64 fairlane C-dan.
R46
I'm in on this build ... I'm contemplating running a LS2/6 speed from a '06 gto in my '64 fairlane C-dan.
R46
Get ready for surgery. The th400 is maxing out the space in the trans tunnel. I had to notch the frame so the pan would clear. I had to use hammer to massage my 69 camaro to accept the t56. Its a monster.
Well i went the cheap route. I scored an ls1 intake and a ls1 waterpump for a 1/3 of the price of an ls6 intake. Im not really concerned with horsepower on this build. It will actually be my first car without some crazy engine combo.
Next on the list are ls1 injectors, a idler pulley relocation bracket, 85mm maf, and water pump spacers with a steam line tapped. I still pan on using the truck throttle body and pedal.
85coupe50
06-26-2012, 07:48 AM
You are progressing nicely...
I'm in on this build ... I'm contemplating running a LS2/6 speed from a '06 gto in my '64 fairlane C-dan.
R46
R46, I would certainly like to watch your 64 fairlane build. I have a 64 fairlane 2 door post that I am installing a Griggs GR350 suspension in as well as a 408 backed by a TKO600.
we kicked my dads car off the lift and i got more welding done today. I managed to finish welding all the seams for the floor pans from underneath and sealed all of the seams with Por-15s porpatch. I also boxed in my frame rail notch. tomorrow i will stuff the engine and trans back in so i can test fit the exhaust manifolds and fab up a new trans crossmember.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/1d5ae193-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/51c440fb-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/959fbb22-1.jpg
been a while since i have updated this thread.
after attempting to fit the vette manifolds i can only make them work by trimming the shock towers and removing the stock steering box in favor of a rack. looking at many rack systems i need to stay with one that bolts to the idler arm and steering box locations on the frame. The only systems that allow this are steeroids or aeroform. most other kits bolt to the engine crossmember location which will interfere with my GTO oil pan.
i really didnt want to go this route but feel it is my only option unless i attempt to build my own headers or log style manifolds.
The LS1 is 20'' wide leaving me less than 3'' per side in the engine bay. shocktower to shocktower is a little over 25'' wide.
GrabberGT
07-13-2012, 06:13 AM
been a while since i have updated this thread.
after attempting to fit the vette manifolds i can only make them work by trimming the shock towers and removing the stock steering box in favor of a rack. looking at many rack systems i need to stay with one that bolts to the idler arm and steering box locations on the floor. The only systems that allow this are steeroids or aeroform. most other kits bolt to the engine crossmember location which will interfere with my GTO oil pan.
i really didnt want to go this route but feel it is my only option unless i attempt to build my own headers or log style manifolds.
The LS1 is 20'' wide leaving me less than 3'' per side in the engine bay. shocktower to shocktower is a little over 25'' wide.
Not cheap but look into Total Control Products and also Gateway Performance. Both offer steering racks like you are looking for.
Z06killinSBF
07-13-2012, 09:20 AM
Ya, the LS1 is almost the same size as a 351W so that leaves the thought of modifying a set of 351w swap headers. Maybe get LS flanges and go from there.
lsx80monte
07-13-2012, 10:05 AM
I feel your pain. I am installing a 4.8l/4l65e into a 73 maverick and that I am having to build my own set of headers. I had to notch the shock towers cause it just wasnt gonna work other wise. For steering I yanked most of the original stuff out including the steering column and box. That gave a little extra room on the drivers side.
Ya, the LS1 is almost the same size as a 351W so that leaves the thought of modifying a set of 351w swap headers. Maybe get LS flanges and go from there.
the FOX body and RX7 guys do the 351 header swap all the time. I can get a set of 351w 1-5/8 headman swap headers in long tube or mid length from summit for under $200. correct size flanges arent that expensive either. i am almost tempted to try it... all that is needed is a torch and a tool to round out the square 351w primary tubes. the headers work in 65/66 stangs with an even more cramped engine bay.
well i fiddled with the exhaust again today. came to my final conclusion. I am going to run the 5.3 truck exhaust manifolds with the ends cut off, v bands welded on, and a aeroform/steeroids power rack setup.
i cut the egr port off of the passenger manifold and also cut off the huge triangle flange. the manifold slipped right in and bolted to the head with room to spare. the drivers side would be that easy as well except the steering box is in the way. its got to go.
reading up on ls1tech these manifolds weld super easy with a mig and no preheating. im going to give it a try.
rickpaw
07-23-2012, 06:39 PM
well i fiddled with the exhaust again today. came to my final conclusion. I am going to run the 5.3 truck exhaust manifolds with the ends cut off, v bands welded on, and a aeroform/steeroids power rack setup.
Have you thought about building your own rack/pinion steering? I have read over vintage mustang forum that a couple of guys had built their own R&P using GM's J-car racks (berretta/cavalier/sunfire). Might as well keep everything GM under the hood. :)
I may have to copy your motor mount idea.
boostedtorino
07-23-2012, 10:38 PM
wow what a waste of a good mustang whether its rare or not im DEF NOT an LS fan. cant stand the way they sound and im not a ba$tard swap fan anyways whether it be mopar ford Chevy etc..... if you cant build what came in your car or another engine of that brand then get a diff car dont ruin it by sticking something else in it. the whole chevy in a ford thing is plaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyeeeddddddddddd out man. Hell there are even a lot of ppl round here where i live that go eehh its an ls, sbc, etc... whatever and keep walking just because its so cookie cutter.
i mean nice build and nice fab work just not a fan of the engine choice
rickpaw
07-24-2012, 03:32 AM
This is hotrodding at its best, man. Use what works. I'm no purist so I'd use what I think works best. Dcx is not doing a correct restoration by any means. Heck, even the Ford guys over vintage-mustang are using GM racks in their R/P conversions.
andrewb70
07-24-2012, 03:45 AM
wow what a waste of a good mustang whether its rare or not im DEF NOT an LS fan. cant stand the way they sound and im not a ba$tard swap fan anyways whether it be mopar ford Chevy etc..... if you cant build what came in your car or another engine of that brand then get a diff car dont ruin it by sticking something else in it. the whole chevy in a ford thing is plaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyeeeddddddddddd out man. Hell there are even a lot of ppl round here where i live that go eehh its an ls, sbc, etc... whatever and keep walking just because its so cookie cutter.
i mean nice build and nice fab work just not a fan of the engine choice
Wait....don't tell me.....I know! HE RIPPED THE SOUL out!!!
Lmao...
Andrew
dontlifttoshift
07-24-2012, 04:33 AM
[QUOTE]wow what a waste of a good mustang
It could be argued that you ruined your torino when you painted creamed corn yellow
cant stand the way they sound
You mean like a Windsor only better?
the whole chevy in a ford thing is plaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyeeeddddddddddd out man. Hell there are even a lot of ppl round here where i live that go eehh its an ls, sbc, etc... whatever and keep walking just because its so cookie cutter.
What is plaaaaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyyyyeeeeeeeeeeeeeedddddddd ddd out even more is complaining about it. Smart people have been using Chevy motors in Fords since 1955. You have had nearly 60 years to deal with it so please do.
lsx80monte
07-24-2012, 05:02 AM
What is plaaaaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyyyyeeeeeeeeeeeeeedddddddd ddd out even more is complaining about it. Smart people have been using Chevy motors in Fords since 1955. You have had nearly 60 years to deal with it so please do.[/QUOTE]
2x that. Hotrodders been doin it for decades. This is definitely not a forum for the purist as most people here love to see projects with modern engines. It just so happens that the ls is the easiest one to get into without alot of money and has the most support while being fairly simple to work on.
lsx80monte
07-24-2012, 05:16 AM
What a waist of a perfectly good maverick!!!lol:lmao: I guess he would hate my project as well.
zombiekiller
07-24-2012, 10:31 AM
meh- i'm not particularly a fan of the ls in a ford thing, BUT, it isn't like this is a 390 fastback car that is being butchered. Its one of millions just like it, so who really gives a crap? Put whatever motor that you want in it.
For $650, its not a bad deal. I doubt you'd be getting a 4.6 or even a foxbody take out for that price.
What sucks is, if you ever go to sell it, no ford guy will want it with a chevy motor and no chevy guy will want a ford, so your market shrinks exponentially, as does the range of asking price.
andrewb70
07-24-2012, 11:22 AM
.....
What sucks is, if you ever go to sell it, no ford guy will want it with a chevy motor and no chevy guy will want a ford, so your market shrinks exponentially, as does the range of asking price.
Dave, I actually think you may have that wrong. In fact, I think by doing this swap and making the car user friendly and driveable, he may actually increase the odds of a sale. The younger car guys are not nearly as brand loyal as the 45+ crowd. I think there is a certain young car guy demographic, which I suspect this builder is a part of, appreciated old metal, but wants the functionality, power, and reliability of a modern power plant, regardless of brands...
Andrew
rickpaw
07-24-2012, 11:34 AM
I'm fairly young (under 40) so I don't have the brand loyalty thing going (Chevy vs. Ford vs. Mopar). As Andrew mentioned, I'm all about old looks with modern performance/reliability, as maybe with the OP. I just don't get it where people gets upset when someone puts a chevy engine in a mustang; but goes out and buys an aftermarket rack/pion steering rack that based off of GM veh.
I think we've had enough discussions about Ford vs. Chevy, let's get back on topic.
lsx80monte
07-24-2012, 01:30 PM
Im using a reman grand am rack. Well at least thats what Im attempting to do as Ive seen another guy put one in his mav.
zombiekiller
07-24-2012, 01:37 PM
Dave, I actually think you may have that wrong. In fact, I think by doing this swap and making the car user friendly and driveable, he may actually increase the odds of a sale. The younger car guys are not nearly as brand loyal as the 45+ crowd. I think there is a certain young car guy demographic, which I suspect this builder is a part of, appreciated old metal, but wants the functionality, power, and reliability of a modern power plant, regardless of brands...
Andrew
That may be true. you're certainly not wrong. I guess it'll boil down to personal preference. At the end of the day , i'm a ford guy, but even I can see that it's EXTREMELY hard to beat what you get for your money when you go LSx. the mod ford motors all sort of suck and are expensive. The coyotes are still exponentially more expensive than LS motors. in the modern technology motor bang for the buck, chevy has ford beat hands down.
boostedtorino
07-24-2012, 02:14 PM
Dave, I actually think you may have that wrong. In fact, I think by doing this swap and making the car user friendly and driveable, he may actually increase the odds of a sale. The younger car guys are not nearly as brand loyal as the 45+ crowd. I think there is a certain young car guy demographic, which I suspect this builder is a part of, appreciated old metal, but wants the functionality, power, and reliability of a modern power plant, regardless of brands...
Youve got that a lil wrong im only 30 and im pretty brand loyal I am a FORD and MOPAR guy mainly. The only thing is i like a few cars from a lot of brands would i own most of them probably not would i ruin one by sticking a different brand engine in one?? Certainly not most of the car guys i know are around my age and most feel the same way. like i said it really isnt a ford vs chevy vs mopar issue .... its more of a put what belongs in it no matter the brand issue.
But like i said props on the fab skills
dontlifttoshift
07-24-2012, 05:24 PM
.... its more of a put what belongs in it no matter the brand issue.
And what belongs in it is the powerplant that the owner decides to install for whatever reason he wants. If its a flux capacitor, electric motor, turbine, vtec, or a slant 6, it is his car and his money and whatever he puts in it is what belongs in it.
DC, Sorry for crapping up your build thread aren't you due for an update?
DC, Sorry for crapping up your build thread aren't you due for an update?
why yes i am. I received my Vbands in the mail. they are amazingly machined and only cost $25 a set from ebay.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/4483fd56-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/7dd48423-1.jpg
i also won some LS1 fuel injectors for $50 shipped and a 85mm mass air flow for $50 as well.
Fabrication of the exhaust will start tomorrow, i started working graveyard again 12-8am so my schedule is all screwed up.
and for the record. I am 29, what does age have to do with being brand loyal? i agree, this isnt the site for a purist. everyone mods the hell out of their cars on here. my father and I are keeping it REAL with his S code 390 fastback so no need to have a tissy @BOOSTEDTORINO.
66larkgs
07-25-2012, 07:16 PM
Youve got that a lil wrong im only 30 and im pretty brand loyal I am a FORD and MOPAR guy mainly. The only thing is i like a few cars from a lot of brands would i own most of them probably not would i ruin one by sticking a different brand engine in one?? Certainly not most of the car guys i know are around my age and most feel the same way. like i said it really isnt a ford vs chevy vs mopar issue .... its more of a put what belongs in it no matter the brand issue.
But like i said props on the fab skills
No offense but you clearly havent built enough stuff yet and dont understand hotrodding. hotrodding is taking what you have and making it better with the resources you have. that includes money,skill set,available work area. Thier was buick nailheads in fords in the 50-60's and it was cool than why not now??..i have built a bunch of different things including cars,trucks, jeeps,hotrods.. what you said keep all the same brand nomatter what. thats crazy and why not do if different. i put a ninja motor in a 250fourtrax, thats off brand and it was 100mph plus quad!!(had a blown up quad and a ninja that was wrecked) gm 5.7 vortec in a jeep cj.. that thing was insane.. amc 360 in a jeep wrangler yj, off brand but went well.. 406 sbc in a 53 international..off brand went 11.50's, and currently putting a turbo on my nailhead in my pro-touring skylark gs(ohh 1 of 2900)but why not i think it cool .. i am 29 years old and a gm guy but i would love to build anything that is different and technical. It is harder to put that gm in a ford so keep up that ls swap.. i would swap a ride with you for a gm powered mustang for a ride in my protouring 600hp 800 lbs tq buick!! (ohh yellow and a blk top was a 80's thing!!)
Paul
66larkgs
Ridetech shockwaves
tubular controls arms all around
Big sway bars
c5/c6 front and rear brakes
9" detroit locker
billet specialties wheels
and the best part a
Buick Nailhead with a Turbo!!
andrewb70
07-26-2012, 07:16 AM
Let's not hi-jack this thread people. I realize that I jumped on the bandwagon as well, but this is not the place to discuss the pros and cons of stuffing xyz engine into abs car....
Those V-band clamps are great! Mild steel or stainless?
Andrew
tazzz25906112
07-26-2012, 07:43 AM
Let's not hi-jack this thread people. I realize that I jumped on the bandwagon as well, but this is not the place to discuss the pros and cons of stuffing xyz engine into abs car....
Those V-band clamps are great! Mild steel or stainless?
Andrew
X2 guys this about someones build not the your personal beliefs.... ^5 to the owner and building another cool Pro-toured car period....
zombiekiller
07-26-2012, 08:05 AM
back on topic!
I feel your pain on the wasted motor mount money. I think i have 3 extra sets of mounts for SBF now. It was SUCH a pain getting your basic SBF into my galaxie with a canton road race oil pan! I ended up not only notching the crossmember, but also doing trial and error with frame stand and motor mounts in order to get the motor as low as I could and set back as far as I could. I'd have been done my motor swap in a weekend had I just used a standard pan! I ended up using some poly mounts on the block and building the frame stands.
I'm interested in the use of the vbands. I've never used em before.
anyway, I'm a bit envious of the mustang. I've always wanted one. and now that i see you have a S code as well, I'm doubly jealous.
I'm sure i'll get crap about it, but I've been wanting to build a 65/66 fastback with a 3.5 TT ecoboost in it ever since i bought my f-150 with one. If only i had the time/space , a clone and 6 extra hands, then I could build one!
66larkgs
07-26-2012, 12:31 PM
make sure not to overtighten and you can put a little neverseize on those threads of your v band in you are still in mock up stage. i bought some of thise cx ones off ebay and had a few pull the threads. i put just a dap of neversieze now and havent had a issue. i will never use a regular clamp again.
What are you using for a ecu. are you using a factory ecu with a different harness and a flash? \
Great build!!
Paul
66lark gs
Turbo401 Nailhead
What are you using for a ecu. are you using a factory ecu with a different harness and a flash? \
Great build!!
im going to use a truck pcm that will operate the pedal and throttle body. I plan on using a harness made by PSI, they sell on ebay but everyone on LS1tech uses them for simplicity and price.
well back to my exhaust... I hate to go back on my word but looks like i will be using the LS3 vette manifolds after all. I wasted the Vbands by welding them to my truck manifolds. After i got them all welded up I then gutted the steering column and pulled the steering box out of the car. The truck manifolds fix excellent except the drivers side drops down right on top of where the box was almost covering the frame rail. I dont think i will be able to run the manifold even if i switch to a rack because it might interfere with the steering shaft. So I decided to use the Vette manifolds. The drivers side fits amazing. The passenger side required that i put a notch in the shock tower frame. other than the small notch they bolt up.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/b8e58fff-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/5333ff5f-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/c6102c2c-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/487989f4-1.jpg
I was very impressed at how well the truck manifolds welded. All i did was wire wheel them clean, set my lincoln 175HD to the highest setting (E-10) with .025 wire and C25 gas, and went to work on the cold manifolds. After the manifolds were welded in one stitching pass i placed them in the gas BBQ on high for 10 minutes then let them cool with the flame off. Came out nice!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/5868ac29-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/07/460db79f-1.jpg
I welded up the EGR port on the passenger side with some 1/8 steel scrap.
Next week i will box in my frame notch and attempt to extract TWO BROKEN BOLTS from my driver side cylinder head. not very happy about that. I totally missed it when buying my motor.
Sixt5
07-30-2012, 01:49 PM
< this guy just bought an lq4 today for his 65. im getting hate everywhere but its gonna be worth it!
Z06killinSBF
07-31-2012, 06:47 AM
Damn, now I need one
Z06killinSBF
07-31-2012, 06:48 AM
DCx, can you do me a HUGE favor and flip those manifolds forward and see how they fit?
andrewb70
07-31-2012, 06:58 AM
DCx, can you do me a HUGE favor and flip those manifolds forward and see how they fit?
Yes, Please....
Andrew
DCx, can you do me a HUGE favor and flip those manifolds forward and see how they fit?
no doubt. it was on my mind as well.
sorry to report back that both the LS3 and the truck manifolds will not bolt to the heads flipped forward due to shock tower clearance issues. you would need to do away with them completely for the manifolds to fit.
GOOD NEWS! I WAS ABLE TO EXTRACT BOTH BROKEN BOLTS BY WELDING NUTS TO THE STUDS IN THE HEAD.
I fit up the passenger side manifold. Here are some pics of just how tight it fits. It actually rests on the upper control arm bolt so that will need to be replaced with a shorter one. I really had to cut and grind the hell out of the manifolds original mounting flanges so they would clear. I still have plenty of meat left to weld on V bands.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/08/b3ca214e-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/08/25a5d547-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/08/b2fabf32-1.jpg
Drivers side
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/08/75083224-1.jpg
The previous owner installed the upper control arm cross shafts all wrong and ended up blowing holes in the shock towers to get to the grease fittings. I will need to remove the suspension and weld these back up. my father tells me that he prefers to run the moog rubber bushings in the cross shafts rather than the factory spin on metal bushings.
passenger
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/08/0ad182ec-1.jpg
driver
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/08/7ac9f6f0-1.jpg
I also welded up the notch i made in the shock tower frame for my exhaust clearance.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/08/2639282f-1.jpg
rickpaw
08-03-2012, 04:14 AM
Quick question. In looking at the motor mount, do you think you can lower the motor down some more by triming the chevy mounts, or did the oil pan interfere with the cross member?
Thanks for documenting the swap. It will help me out greatly when I do mine later this year.
Tu
Z06killinSBF
08-03-2012, 07:44 AM
I was curious about those big holes!!
GT500KR_Vert
08-03-2012, 08:55 AM
I don't think it will matter, because the headers couldn't go any lower without hitting the shock towers.
Quick question. In looking at the motor mount, do you think you can lower the motor down some more by triming the chevy mounts, or did the oil pan interfere with the cross member?
Thanks for documenting the swap. It will help me out greatly when I do mine later this year.
Tu
Quick question. In looking at the motor mount, do you think you can lower the motor down some more by triming the chevy mounts, or did the oil pan interfere with the cross member?
the tubular crossmember will not fit because of the depth of the sump on the gto pan. i cut a notch in the crossmember but it wanst enough to clear. i ended up cutting off the ends of it and welding them to some 1.25 square tubing. its a crude square shape but it protects the oil pan. i need to gusset the 90* angles on it still. when i put the engine in the car again i will post pictures of it.
this is the reason why i need a steeroids rack kit. a majority of the other brands bolt to the original cross member location, which would hit my oil pan.
Jetfixr320
08-03-2012, 01:36 PM
If your keeping the stock front suspension. Check out http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/products/, Then you can do away with the rubber bushings.
andrewb70
08-04-2012, 07:40 AM
I wonder how well the new Hooker cast exhaust manifolds would fit...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Andrew
I wonder how well the new Hooker cast exhaust manifolds would fit...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Andrew
andrew to answer your old question... the Vbands on the truck manifolds are mild steel.
I had my eye on a set of those hookers i may order up a set and see how they fit. summit has a nice return policy if they dont work out. Now that i know the stock steering box has got to go i have more options for manifolds i suppose. The trucks bolt up beautifully but i have no idea what the steering linkage angle will be.
i decided to take a few weeks off from working on the car to catch up with my girlfriend. lol. we ended up buying her a new car last week. she settled on a 2012 VW Jetta GLI. essentially a GTI but in a Jetta body. we call it our "poor mans audi". Im very impressed with the interior quality.
as for the exhaust dilemma.... I came up on my some 98 camaro manifolds for very very cheap. i have no plans on using them though. lol. i am going to have a manifold sale here soon to make up some lost money. I ended up buying a set of Headman 351W swap mid length headers and a set of LS1 header flanges. Figured i would give it a shot to see if i can salvage the stock steering in the car.
stay tuned. they are in the mail and i officially turn 30 and start a two week vacation on the 27th!
bikefreak600
08-20-2012, 03:40 PM
i am a purist when it comes to matching engine & car brands. however, with the amount of fabrication you are doing i respect the fact that you put a LS in your car. self built/fab'd cars are kick ass no matter what combinations are in them ! good work so far !
more parts have arrived! my girlfriend gave me an early birthday present and put up the funds for this craigslist gem.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/08/1444606F256A46C199063BB532BE292469450000-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/08/5A0FAD19D1D94973BE96EF9DBA2A278769450000-1.jpg
its an 8.8 rear from a fox body, 31 spline explorer dif, 3.73 gear, 31 spline superior axles, carbon fiber clutch packs, arp wheel studs, and SN95 disc brakes. I looks like the calipers are kinda rigged on there with some odd washers serving as spacers for the missing dust shields. I will have to go to the pull a part and finish up the setup.
among other things, I received my 351w headers and flanges. man these are some CHEAP headers! they are feather light, the coating is terrible with runs and bubbles, and they are very thin wall tubing. I hope i do not destroy them when i weld them to the flanges i bought. my flanges are 5/16 thick.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/08/3407396F7CCD4EC99C94A0DD2686BE1769450000-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/08/7B2C0BE8C02F42BBA1719DA16B68E55969450000-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/08/4C0A523E799B4C72BFEB0030185DF0E969450000-1.jpg
oops the flange is upside down...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/08/B87E656A0FDB409FB7C272680CAD87DE69450000-1.jpg
i am going to vegas for a few days. when i return i will start in on some of these projects!
85coupe50
08-23-2012, 08:36 AM
Are all the tubes pretty well centered on the LS flange? Looks like it might be a good fab job and have some hybrid 351W/LS headers. Hope the steering clearance is good. Have fun in Vegas.
Are all the tubes pretty well centered on the LS flange? Looks like it might be a good fab job and have some hybrid 351W/LS headers. Hope the steering clearance is good. Have fun in Vegas.
take a look at this thread. it has helped me out so much. i ordered a dynomax exhaust pipe shaper to round out the tubes on the primaries.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1566221-cutting-primary-tubes-off-header-flange.html
Z06killinSBF
08-23-2012, 11:49 AM
What's the difference with swap headers and regular headers? The angle of the flange correct because the 351w is wider. I wonder is 289/302 headers would work too.
What's the difference with swap headers and regular headers? The angle of the flange correct because the 351w is wider. I wonder is 289/302 headers would work too.
Im sure they would work too. When it comes to long tubes the 351 headers are longer and taller to make up the added deck spacing. 289/302 long tubes dont clear the floor pans.
Z06killinSBF
08-23-2012, 05:09 PM
Ok, makes sense I guess. I'm really itching to do this swap on mine, just curious if it's more cost effective to do this or do a re-ring and alum heads on the sbf.
Ls1velle
08-28-2012, 09:02 AM
I'm doing a 66 and had the 4.6 sohc motor in and ready to go but last week pulled it out put it under the bench and dropped in an LS1 auto I had in my Chevelle. It's going to be ten times the car with the LS compared to the 4.6.
85coupe50
08-29-2012, 05:44 AM
Ok, makes sense I guess. I'm really itching to do this swap on mine, just curious if it's more cost effective to do this or do a re-ring and alum heads on the sbf.
I can get a 2000 model 5.3 from a truck with high mileage for $400.00 with the ECU around Houston.
If you are going to buy NEW aluminum heads ($700.00 minimum) and then re-ring the shortblock, you might come out WAY ahead on the 5.3 LS swap.
well i started in on the headers today. what a royal pain in the butt. After I cut the flanges off of the Headmans I bought I realized that the tubes were so swedged into the flanges that it would be impossible to fit them into the ls1 flanges. Not to fear, i bought some 1-3/4 OD tubing from auto zone and made some 1/4 spacers that i welded to the 351 tubes. I ended up rounding them out with a ball peen hammer and a huge brass pipe i found that rolled them into shape. Now that I had a reasonable amount of tube to slide into the flanges i tacked them in two places and tested them on the car. I ended up needing to heat the #3 tube and bend it in two places just so i could add dents to clear the steering box. after all that was said and done i have the clearance i need around the steering box, but the header touches the floor pan. I gave up after needing 1/4 more space.
The floor will get the BFH tomorrow and i will fully weld the headers from inside the flanges.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/E8D85F4953B34E0C866A104F0969A20E12058000-1.jpg
only pic i took today. i will take more tomorrow.
the header project failed miserably. I made sure to weld in very short tacks so the flange would not heat up too much. after taking 3 hours to weld up the drivers side header i find that the flange is warped by about a 1/4.
the headers are now in the scrap pile. Im having a "yard" sale soon with all my left over parts so i can fund the steering rack.
Anyone interested in a like new FAST dual wide band unit with rpm module and software? $400
Z06killinSBF
09-03-2012, 01:23 PM
Can you not get another set of flanges?
Can you not get another set of flanges?
yea i could. i have seen some with 1/2 thick flanges that would most likely stand up better to the heat of mig welding. I pretty much sold the FAST wide band kit already. I will most likely press on towards the steering rack. all my factory steering stuff is shot. I need a new steering ram and control valve. add in inner and outer tie rods and idler arm. its money either way. lol
to occupy my time i replaced my drivers side floor pan, dropped the gas tank, and cleaned up most of the surface rust on the floors and trunk floor. I removed almost all of the factory seam sealer. I will replace it with new stuff and coat the floors with some roll on bed liner.
I am about to head to the garage to cut the brackets off of the 8.8
Trans
09-03-2012, 06:20 PM
yea i could. i have seen some with 1/2 thick flanges that would most likely stand up better to the heat of mig welding. I pretty much sold the FAST wide band kit already. I will most likely press on towards the steering rack. all my factory steering stuff is shot. I need a new steering ram and control valve. add in inner and outer tie rods and idler arm. its money either way. lol
to occupy my time i replaced my drivers side floor pan, dropped the gas tank, and cleaned up most of the surface rust on the floors and truck floor. I removed almost all of the factory seam sealer. I will replace it with new stuff and coat the floors with some roll on bed liner.
I am about to head to the garage to cut the brackets off of the 8.8
what kind of mpg are you getting on your caamaro carbed ls1 setup?
what kind of mpg are you getting on your caamaro carbed ls1 setup?
I couldn't give you a correct answer. I very rarely drive the car more than a mile or two around the block before it gets parked. I am always hauling ass in it lol. the t56 with 4.11s out back still suck down the gas pretty fast.
Spent three hours cutting, grinding, and hammering on the 8.8, my ears are still ringing. it turned out nice tho.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/F3259C92CCB2422D8B256EE5DC38236512836000-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/157FD4D481CB4EF8B819A5258DD24A5912836000-1.jpg
Z06killinSBF
09-04-2012, 09:21 AM
I am running the Randall's rack on my car and am more than pleased with it. My only concern is that you'll spend all that money on replacing old parts and still be with out dated technology.
spent some more time on the car the weekend. my dad tore the entire front suspension out of the car while i welded up a transmission cross member. it looks pretty crude but it is strong as hell. I used 1/4 plate and 1/8 wall 1.25 square tubing. it sets the tail shaft at -5*. I plan on welding the 8.8 at +5*
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/B219BB482DA44E25A57DD9F615AA150C18969000-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/357A19060CFF47B4B3A2C9124EDDCE1D18969000-1.jpg
not sure about the emergency brake now. all the linkage movement will interfere with my crossmember. maybe i will install one of those fancy lokar handbrakes.
im also kinda screwed on my suspension. i bought new moog lower control arms, moog 4 bolt upper ball joints, and moog upper control arm shafts with rubber bushings. after removing the upper control arms we found out that they are completely shot. the holes for the upper shafts are ovaled and they just wont work.
heres my delema. seems like all the repo arms out there only come complete with shafts and 3 bolt ball joints. i have searched high and low for bare 4 bolt control arm frames. mustang plus has them but they are $110 each! and there grab a trak complete arms are $75. seems odd to me that you get less and you pay more. mustang parts piss me off. the camaro was so much more easy to shop for.
among other things i welded up the holes in the shock towers.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/24B7722E4CFF4D55BAA90C11CF1833E418969000-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/B414904F87114645860608270FEE891618969000-1.jpg
i got the drivers side welded in from behind but ran out of time and gas. ill need a refill on my C25 for next week.
solved my control arm issues. i called colorado mustang salvage and picked up a used set for $65. my dad is visiting my uncle today, hopefully i can score a set of coil springs and spring perches off of him.
i am also picking up a U-Pol Raptor bed liner kit soon. planning on spraying the inside of the car and the trunk area.
chunger
09-17-2012, 12:56 PM
Just sprayed the Raptor lining in the bed of my Ranchero. Great stuff, you'll like it.
Just sprayed the Raptor lining in the bed of my Ranchero. Great stuff, you'll like it.
sweet! i saw it on an episode of xtreme 4x4 on spike. cant beat the price!
Jetfixr320
09-17-2012, 02:18 PM
You should look into making the spring perches rollerized. Bearings instead of rubber bushings. Will be easy for you to do with everything else your doing. Look for a thread under Dazecars.
Steve
LowFast
09-17-2012, 02:47 PM
I am in to check out your results with the Raptor Lining as I was considering doing the same on my Falcon. I have to admit two things, the LS in a Ford hurts, but I can't argue it is a great powerplant. It is what the SBF could have become had Ford never gone Modular. In this case though I can get behind the effort going into it, no matter the engine choice to me the effort we put into these things is more important than if it fits others tastes.:twothumbs
howehot
09-17-2012, 05:51 PM
sweet! i saw it on an episode of xtreme 4x4 on spike. cant beat the price!
Raptor works great. Used it on the underside of my Monte Carlo cleans easy, smooth texture, and the ceramic in it helps control heat. Very easy to apply also.
You should look into making the spring perches rollerized. Bearings instead of rubber bushings. Will be easy for you to do with everything else your doing. Look for a thread under Dazecars.
Steve
funny you said that. i emailed open tracker racing about a set of upper control arms and ended up selling him my junk cores. if budget permits i will look into roller perches.
Jetfixr320
09-19-2012, 06:45 AM
Opentracker and Daze are both good to work with. I got the spring perch kit from Daze. And lower control arm kit from Opentracker when I rollerized the Falcon. Those upper arms are nice! I didn't go that far though.
Steve
i ended up just going back to american made stock suspension. im using all moog parts. I got my second hand set of upper control arms last week. they are in great shape and just need to be sand blasted. I ended up ordering a set of 1'' drop coils, stock perches, and moog strut rod bushings.
looks like i need to replace the entire front brakes. the pistons in the kelsey hayes calipers are stuck and all rusted up, also the rotors that were on the car are shot. looks like im going with pep boys rebuilds on the calipers, they offer the best over the counter core charge and im going to use a CJ pony parts gift certificate for some new rotors. that used up all the money i had made from the sale of my FAST wide band.
pics to come shortly.
Z06killinSBF
12-14-2012, 10:56 AM
Any update on this project?
Sorry to leave you all hanging I made some updates to the car but havnt touched it since early November. I managed to get the front suspension replaced and finally got a set of NEW and proper 4 piston calipers. My old man was kind enough to install it all for me.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/E534277D806442C5891FC3546D8A4E0D93700000-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/DCDBFF41D9204AC5A427E61E491B2CAB93700000-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/38A4308DD88240A3975A3022E66E2AB893700000-1.jpg
I also ordered another set of header flanges, this time in 1/2 mild steel. i have my fingers crossed i can "rig" these to work and not warp them with the mig. I also need to gather some steel to make a jig for the rear axle swap. plan to set it up like this picture.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/12/perch3-1.jpg
sorry for the delay. the car has taken a back seat for the moment. I have had some health issues, changed work schedules, had to move the girlfriends sister in... just life...
I ordered up some new HD shackles and poly bushings for the rear. once the mounts are welded to the 8.8 i can install the whole mess. Im going to retain the stock 4 leaf springs. I came up on a free set of 245/50/17 tires. im planning on running those on the rear with a 9'' wide steel rim. The 50 series sidewall should take up some fender well space.
Installed the 8.8 today, it was pretty easy. I removed the old 8" rear and leaf springs and installed the new energy suspension poly bushings and HD shackles then reinstalled the leafs. I tack welded the spring perches to the leaf springs to center them then muscled the 8.8 into place. I used two different reference points to center the axle. After that I used a screw jack to set the pinion angle 5* up and fully welded the perches. The new spring perches are thicker than the old 8" I will need 1'' shock extenders to make my new shocks work. For now i just used washers to space out the bushings.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/4305CA60BDE64705BA151C9C7CFCB68510976000-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/75E762BE869C4CD2AAC8E9EBABB3258510976000-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/A3B1EED4B0534B3D82A5326A0E91967510976000-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/61C92D78ACE2417185875BE8A5D0812010976000-1.jpg
Z06killinSBF
04-12-2013, 05:13 AM
Did you set the pinion with weight on the suspension?
Did you set the pinion with weight on the suspension?
no i didnt put any weight on the suspension. i followed this article. They set the pinion angle then welded the perches out of the vehicle.
http://www.fordification.com/tech/leafspring-perches.htm
the initial plan was to make a jig to space out the perches but i used the leafs springs as the jig.
Got some work done on the mustangs exhaust today. I had a set of 98 camaro Z28 manifolds laying around so i figured i would give them a shot since they are mild steel instead of cast iron. After cutting off the huge triangle flange i realized the manifold would fit if i rerouted one tube and made a tri-y design. I used some scrap 1 3/4 tube bends i had and made a fancy connector pipe. I blew a hole in the manifold with a torch and welded it all up. I ran out of wire before i could finish though.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/011D36922AF849DBAB31ABB4EA54834C26460000-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/49CB75842FA740E591D67BE29381592A26460000-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/A5FBA1FFAA444B76A2310F2DD50CF6EE26460000-1.jpg
I made room for the spark plugs and made a small notch in the manifold to clear the steering box. Now that its all fitted im not sure if i will convert the car to manual steering or replace the power stuff. If i go power i need a new ram, control valve, and tie rods.
andrewb70
04-16-2013, 07:44 PM
Looking at the pictures makes me wonder if the LS2/3 Corvette manifolds would have worked...
Andrew
Looking at the pictures makes me wonder if the LS2/3 Corvette manifolds would have worked...
Andrew
the ls3 manifolds barely fit without the steering box.
i test fitted one of the rear calipers on my rear axle. the guy i bought it from told me that the rear brakes were converted to sn95 rear discs. looking at his funky setup i see he was too lazy to pull the axles and sliced the factory caliper bracket to fit over the axle tubes. its all spaced out with some odd washers and spacers. After bolting a caliper on the emergency brake coil spring rests on the leaf spring. im at a cross road right now. do i keep messing with his crappy set up or spend the $170 on some proper brackets for the swap along with a new master, prop valve, hoses, ect. or do i just go to the junk yard and nab me some stock drums off of another 5.0 mustang. i would save a buncha cash that way keeping my existing power brake system.
rickpaw
04-22-2013, 05:53 PM
....do i keep messing with his crappy set up or spend the $170 on some proper brackets for the swap along with a new master, prop valve, hoses, ect. or do i just go to the junk yard and nab me some stock drums off of another 5.0 mustang. i would save a buncha cash that way keeping my existing power brake system.
I'll say do it right and get proper bracket. Brakes are one of the things I would not take short cuts on.
Z06killinSBF
04-24-2013, 08:57 AM
I have a set of Explorer caliper brackets you can have
andrewb70
04-24-2013, 03:13 PM
i test fitted one of the rear calipers on my rear axle. the guy i bought it from told me that the rear brakes were converted to sn95 rear discs. looking at his funky setup i see he was too lazy to pull the axles and sliced the factory caliper bracket to fit over the axle tubes. its all spaced out with some odd washers and spacers. After bolting a caliper on the emergency brake coil spring rests on the leaf spring. im at a cross road right now. do i keep messing with his crappy set up or spend the $170 on some proper brackets for the swap along with a new master, prop valve, hoses, ect. or do i just go to the junk yard and nab me some stock drums off of another 5.0 mustang. i would save a buncha cash that way keeping my existing power brake system.
I see nothing wrong with running drums in the rear. Most of the braking is done at the front.
Andrew
i chickened out on going to the bone yard today for a set of drums. by the time i rebuild them and buy some ranger 5 lug drums ill be into the brakes for about as much as the discs cost. i found an old post on stangnet that shows how to cut the stock sn95 bracket and install it on a fox axle. it looks like the previous owner cut the brackets and installed them sorta correct. im sure i could space it out correctly if i play around with it. if not some $160 north racecars brackets may be in order. Im only missing dust shields. I have calipers, pads, rotors, and brake lines. I was thinking of running a fox body mustang hand brake along with sn95 rear parking cables if i stick to the sn95 discs.
aside from the rear end i have started stripping some of the body panels with my grinder and a paint stripping wheel. I found out that the car has two paint jobs and healthy coat of 2k primer. the thickness takes away from the lines of the car. I will be ordering some epoxy primer (spi), u-pol raptor bed liner, and some rage gold filler soon. For now the door and trunk lid i stripped are waring a very light coat of rattle can primer.
I also discovered that i can run the stock mustang shifter! all i need to make it work is the shift linkage from a Nova.
here is a pic of the layers of paint.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/EE4FA99592354F5E96B3AB6640ECD69565740000-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/EA95166DDB8C41AF9D5B931016CA5FAA65740000-1.jpg
I now have a full functional emergency brake set up using the existing 67 mustang drum brake cables. I fabricated some brackets out of 1/8 flat stock and attached them using one of the caliper bolts. I had to make a bracket and weld it to my crossmember for the equalizer rod. I can lock the rear wheels with just 2 clicks of the brake handle. works flawlessly!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/09158C6156A6466FBCE5E995A19B4DCC10878000-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/59B11D26A66B41E0B7BF5670EAE0686F10878000-1.jpg
man stripping paint is a real pain. i broke my grinder and had to get a new one. I attacked the trunk deck tonight with a paint stripping wheel, aircraft remover, and 40 grit on an electric orbital sander.
this paint is invincible! while i was letting the grinder cool off i would go at it with sand paper. didnt get very far before it got dark out.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/9B8AF3EB45A94CC98D9AAD4E37B6C81E13269000-1.jpg
found a skim coat of bondo on the drivers side. the bare metal parts of the panel feel smooth and i havnt found a single dent or ding yet. the yellow primer that was covering the panel was some tough stuff to get through.
just like the trunk deck the doors had just as many layers of paint. after removing it all the metal is slick, virtually dent free, and not scratched at all. why they used so much bondo, primer, paint is beyond me.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/6C03AEA7AF2448CC9B71FAD76193032813685000-1.jpg
i picked up some dura blocks and a gallon of rage gold. i still need some epoxy primer, high build primer, and some slick sand poly. my driver side quarter has some dings in it and my roof also has dings. i dont think i need to slick sand the entire car. the doors are proof that a regular 2k will get the job done.
Z06killinSBF
05-07-2013, 06:45 PM
Taking it down to bare metal is a wise move.
no go nova
05-08-2013, 04:17 AM
Nice project keep up the good work
Taking it down to bare metal is a wise move.
seriously! i found bondo directly over the factory gold paint. the bondo that was on bare steel had zero sand scratches.
Jetfixr320
05-09-2013, 09:39 PM
I've been using Matrix paint products on my Falcon. I'm new to paint and bodywork, but happy with the results so far. And cheaper then PPG Deltron except for the Basecoat.
Used Evercoat Rage extreme filler and their tow part finish filler.
Try the 3M Roloc wheels. The Green ones. I used them on parts of my car after getting tired of paint stripper. Kinda wish I used them the whole time. Except for the dust all over my garage. They also have bigger ones for a angle grinder.
I've been using Matrix paint products on my Falcon. I'm new to paint and bodywork, but happy with the results so far. And cheaper then PPG Deltron except for the Basecoat.
Used Evercoat Rage extreme filler and their tow part finish filler.
Try the 3M Roloc wheels. The Green ones. I used them on parts of my car after getting tired of paint stripper. Kinda wish I used them the whole time. Except for the dust all over my garage. They also have bigger ones for a angle grinder.
thanks for the tip. i have been using poly carbide abrasive wheels on my 4.5" grinder and 2''on my die grinder. they tear through the bondo easily but kinda mar up the metal at bit when you really dig in.
here is a before and after of my trunk lid.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/CBE2FB72F0DF44BF83A2964993CC81E813279000-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/05/2427130F49194EBFB2BB362D6D00032515345000-1.jpg
the leopard spots look worse in the photo than they really are. I used chemical stripper to take down the blue/purple/grey paint. then DA sanded the rest down to the factory red oxide primer. from there i coated it in paint stripper and scrubbed it clean using a scotch bright pad. i will go over it again with 80 grit in a DA before i primer it. The trunk deck is now sleeping in my parents spare bed room.
Jetfixr320
05-10-2013, 08:02 PM
Before I tried the 3M Rolocs, I was using paint stripper from Lowes to get through two layers of paint, but it wouldn't do much to the factory red primer. I used 80G on a DA to remove the primer.
The Rolocs go through all of it. And not worse then 80g on the steel.
Used a varied selection of sanders and wheels to get into the tight radius of doors and jams.
Not much to update on. Ive been an ebay junky lately. Ive purchased all the rare early 67 manual steering parts need to switch over from power. I found out my 67 steering box has the spear of death long shaft and a unique 1" sector shaft like the 65/66 cars used. My year used a unique manual pitman arm. I scored a manual long shaft gear box with pitman from ebay along with a new manual idler and original manual center link. Also scored a master body bolt kit for about 1/2 retail price.
I labored away today and stripped one of the fenders to metal. It had the same amount of unecessary filler and layers of paint. I used my electric orbital sander with 60 and 40 paper to blast through the layers of paint. I will most likely hang the fenders and door before I do my filler work.
I also found out I cannot run the truck alternator bracket. It put the alternator up about an inch above the finder. Lol. I'm going to buy an F body style low alternator only bracket and idler setup from LSbrackets. Bummer it's $150 but it's spaced out correctly for the truck crank and around the same price for used F body parts on eBay.
More pics to come soon.
MSTSFabbed
05-30-2013, 06:13 AM
Just went through all the same crap with early year 67 long shaft box. I replaced the drag link and inner and outer tie rods a few years back. Just recently realized my pitman arm ball joint is a huge contributor to slop in the wheel. I had just assumed it was wear in the gear mesh. Went through a minor ordeal to source a replacement and now it's tighter but sticks. The steering will "pop" and suddenly make a small turn in or out on corner entry and exit. Seriously annoying and maybe a little dangerous.
I know you just bought all the stuff, but it's honestly one of the worst combos of parts you can keep on these cars! It's unsafe, worn out, hard to find good replacements for, and near impossible to find new stuff. I don't mean to be a Debby downer, but swap to the rag joint later year style, swap the column and get all new stuff if you really want to stick with manual. Or for about less than double that cost say screw it and get a manual rack. This is just my opinion from somebody that wishes they didn't have that system!!
hookemdevils22
06-03-2013, 12:35 PM
Amen. Terrible, terrible system. Ford really did like to make things difficult for hot rodders.
its been months since i have touched the car. Found out my girlfriend was pregnant a few months back and have been spending alllllllll of my money fixing things around the house and getting ready for the baby.
i have since put the car on hold. in the meantime i have added over 500sqft of concrete to my backyard and side of house, added new electrical fixtures and ceiling fans, installed new laminate floors, trim, and paint in the kids room, and bought a crib and dresser.
hope that keeps her happy for a while!
i did score some cheap ls1 water pump spacers so i can run the ls1 pump with a truck crank pulley. they have a drilled fitting to run the steam like into them.
Z06killinSBF
08-30-2013, 06:38 AM
Congrats on the upcoming baby! They tend to put less important things (car hobbies) on hold.
Feeling very left out lately I decided to order a few parts for the car. I have a new 6.0 style truck flexplate coming in the mail. It includes the flexplate, crank spacer, and bolts all for $65 new. It cost less then the gm spacer and bolts! It will allow me to run a th400 converter with the 11.5 bolt spacing without any modifications. Aside from that I'm going to hit up the junk yard for a 2000+ v6 mustang master cylinder and I need to score the drive shaft companion flange for my 8.8 rear. I have an old th400 drive shaft in my garage from my 69 camaro about 10 years ago. Pretty sure the shaft is too short for my mustang tho, but the u joints are new and the slip yolk is correct for the th400.
got the flexplate in the mail today
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/830D1F77761E446E81E5E67146357E1112052000-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/9760B48618124087B6A52F2DC9F5D33512052000-1.jpg
andrewb70
09-25-2013, 05:23 AM
How does the stock starter engage the flexplate with the spacer?
Andrew
How does the stock starter engage the flexplate with the spacer?
Andrew
no difference. when you use a flat flex plate like above the spacer goes directly on the crank. with a stock ls1 of 5.3 curved flex plate the spacer goes on after the flex plate. the spacer provides support for the converter hub. if you lay a flat flex plate with the spacer next to a curved one the starter ring gear is at the same height.
i opted to go this route because the curved flex plates are set up for the smaller 10.75 th350 torque converter bolt circle and require ovaling the holes to make the converter bolt up. this is a direct bolt on for a large bolt circle th400 converter.
im looking at a mild 2500 stall 10'' converter from jegs.
andrewb70
09-25-2013, 12:48 PM
no difference. when you use a flat flex plate like above the spacer goes directly on the crank. with a stock ls1 of 5.3 curved flex plate the spacer goes on after the flex plate. the spacer provides support for the converter hub. if you lay a flat flex plate with the spacer next to a curved one the starter ring gear is at the same height.
i opted to go this route because the curved flex plates are set up for the smaller 10.75 th350 torque converter bolt circle and require ovaling the holes to make the converter bolt up. this is a direct bolt on for a large bolt circle th400 converter.
im looking at a mild 2500 stall 10'' converter from jegs.
Gotcha...so the flex plate is specifically designed to keep the ring gear at the same plane...
Andrew
i found a great deal on a ls6 vented valley cover and the proper hose that connects to the throttle body. from what i understand the part number for the valley cover i have it an 04+ design that does not require an external pcv valve like most used when hacking up their stock ls1 pcv system. I may order a catch can for it.
other than that i am waiting to hear back from dirty dingo motor sports on the development of an alternator bracket that mimics the ls1 camaros but is spaced for the 5.3 balancer. i am also considering power steering again... lol
decided to see just how bad my power steering control valve was... disassembly was a total pain in the ass. with the guidance of a youtube video i accomplished the task. i think my valve is shot! its most likely only good for parts. The previous owner really neglected the poor car. Every inch of the valve is pitted and rusty. the original seals were rock hard and everything was seized. i had to pry the bronze ball stud bushing out, it was stuck, and my spool valve needed to be tapped out with a screw driver and hammer. after a very long soak in super clean then purple power i scrubbed the hell out of everything with a wire brush only to find pitted and rusty springs, spacers, and bolts. even the aluminum flare tube seats are smashed and grooved. I can get a complete rebuild kit, new spool valve, and tube seats but then i would have over $120 invested in the damn thing. I contacted a reputable rebuilder from ebay and other mustang forums and he wanted $190 to exchange mine out, thats with the core deducted.. so a new control valve and ram less the hoses will set me back $300... or i could just bolt on that manual pitman arm and center link and call it a day!!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/D5D8B9B46EDA494DBFBF07ACF35C0C7017612000-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/D5D8B9B4-6EDA-494D-BFBF-07ACF35C0C70-17612-000014D28BD68540_zpsda9c556f.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/8FDE69458FA64F69886E96A53289732417612000-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/8FDE6945-8FA6-4F69-886E-96A532897324-17612-000014D2A6F974AD_zps546a6ac8.jpg.html)
here is some good new tho. i received my ls6 vented valley and pcv hose! it even came with a new gasket and bolts. here it is next to my ls1 intake (previous owner painted it) and my brand new fresh from the box cable operated truck throttle body. i got it super ultra dirt cheap on ebay. its the same size as a camaros.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/5996220F4BEB429BA1661BB89934EED517612000-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/5996220F-4BEB-429B-A166-1BB89934EED5-17612-000014D2C2EFF799_zpsc6f60c18.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/76913B37E2264C98899F01AF65A3513817612000-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/76913B37-E226-4C98-899F-01AF65A35138-17612-000014D2DCD99A59_zpse0d045c8.jpg.html)
andrewb70
10-04-2013, 06:06 AM
I would go manual steering and call it a day...LOL
Andrew
Bossed
10-06-2013, 06:50 AM
Mustang with LS 5.3 = Angry ford fans LOL i love it
What do you love about angry Ford fans?
Bossed
10-06-2013, 07:08 AM
Some people make it sound like you just buy a $300 LS motor an throw it in there and it makes 700 hp. Looks like it just falls right in, lmao.
Some people make it sound like you just buy a $300 LS motor an throw it in there and it makes 700 hp. Looks like it just falls right in, lmao.
all the little odds and ends make these motors not that cost effective. the mustang is a horrible platform that requires either a very expensive front clip and suspension or pricey oem parts like the gto oil pan and car intake swap to make work. since i am running rear steering and no power steering now i need to get a custom alternator only bracket now. more money, more LS problems!
if this was a chevy all i would have needed was a new oil pan for most applications.
andrewb70
10-07-2013, 03:01 PM
....since i am running rear steering and no power steering now i need to get a custom alternator only bracket now. more money, more LS problems!
if this was a chevy all i would have needed was a new oil pan for most applications.
Look at the Holley bracket. It puts the alternator up high on the driver's side and can be used without the power steering. You can also shim it and use it with the truck balancer spacing. It isn't super expensive.
Andrew
i will most likely get this bracket. i held my alternator in the same position and it will clear the shock tower.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
things have been slow, no progress on the car but my parts pile is growing. i have been a ebay junky lately. finding all sorts of deals.
i picked up these parts over the past month,
LS Brackets - powersteering delete front accessory drive (5.3/6.0 crank spacing) it mimics the F body set up and uses an idler where the power steering pump should be. $165
LS1 automatic radiator - $65
LS1 radiator hoses - $15
69 mustang throttle pedal - cable operated - $20
2001 v6 mustang master cylender - 1" bore - $20
98-2002 camaro fuel pump module - $58
67 mustang new gas tank - $60
plan is to modify the new gas tank with the LS1 fuel pump bucket. vetteworks sells a weld ring that will adopt this to any tank.
http://vetteworksonline.net/ls1_conversion_fuel.htm
Z06killinSBF
11-20-2013, 05:16 PM
I hear your pain! I'm glad progress is being made.
reedld
11-20-2013, 06:05 PM
First off...love the build! I'd like to do exactly what you are doing someday!
I did the vetteworks kit into my 78 this past spring.....I used a 4th gen pump....works great! I bought a used fuel bucket, but bought a new pump for piece of mind. When I put the new pump in the bucket, I shortened the hoses so I could compress the bucket to the max. My pump mount is recessed almost 2 inches so I did not need to notch/cut the trunk.
First off...love the build! I'd like to do exactly what you are doing someday!
I did the vetteworks kit into my 78 this past spring.....I used a 4th gen pump....works great! I bought a used fuel bucket, but bought a new pump for piece of mind. When I put the new pump in the bucket, I shortened the hoses so I could compress the bucket to the max. My pump mount is recessed almost 2 inches so I did not need to notch/cut the trunk.
i think i found your post about that in nastyz28.... inspiration for sure!
Got my radiator today! Man it's clean. Can't wait to mock it up.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/54F39D9CFF09423FBDFB47E9C837ABF8-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/54F39D9C-FF09-423F-BDFB-47E9C837ABF8.jpg.html)
went to my folks house on thanksgivig and laid the radiator in the car. its a tad bit too wide, i will have to cut the frame rails and weld in some angle to make it fit. i ordered a set of radiator isolators from a 93-02 camaro so hopefully i can use those to mount it.
among other things, the camaro fuel pump bucket is too tall to fit in my 67 mustang tank. i will have to cut down the bucket, tubes, and springs to compress it enough to make it fit. It should be easy to mount though. there is a flat strip down the center of the tank wide enough to drill the 3 7/8 hold needed to drop in the pump.
and lastly i was going to order my PSI harness for the engine with my holiday bonus when the thought of a 4l60e popped into my head. I checked with the same yard i got my 5.3 pull out from and they wanted $700 for a 2wd trans. i might get the overdrive i donno yet.
Things have been very hectic around here! nothing to report on about the mustang but i would like to share my fathers xmas gift with you all.
Long ago he was given a junked holley 4150 that was said to be from a big block ford. well i unearthed it from the depths of the garage and looked up its list number. turns out its a service replacement for a 1969 428 cobra jet! SCORE! i attempted to clean and rebuild the carb myself as a gift to my father but i ruined the finish of the carb using some berrymans carb dip. i thought it was a total loss. the original finish melted away and left a sticky mess inside the fuel blows an metering blocks. I ended up taking it to a local carb shop and having it re-dichromed in the original Holley finish, rebuild, base plate resurfaced, new linkage, show quality stage 1 rebuild.
it turned out awesome!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/12/D58BD04F27834A5FA7AEBC64F9E8E138-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/D58BD04F-2783-4A5F-A7AE-BC64F9E8E138.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/12/D2FE40EE06704DE2A4CEC3716461FBBD-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/D2FE40EE-0670-4DE2-A4CE-C3716461FBBD.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/12/1794539E738B4A77BC2B6BD020F9E21E-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/1794539E-738B-4A77-BC2B-6BD020F9E21E.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/12/89746675183D444BAD6A74ADBA7CD41E-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/89746675-183D-444B-AD6A-74ADBA7CD41E.jpg.html)
730cf built to stock 428 CJ specs. I opted to have the automatic choke and choke plate removed. it should run nicely on top of his aluminum head/intake 390 big block.
got some time away from the girl friend and the new baby today.
I mocked up the booster (which is broken) and the 2000 V6 mustang master cylinder. It fits like a glove. Just need to make some metric to SAE lines to plumb to the distribution block.
Also found out i can run a curved montecarlo bar. I just have to install it after the throttle body is installed.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/12/D31E02C6C131449FB91022A3CDFF499C-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/D31E02C6-C131-449F-B910-22A3CDFF499C.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/12/EA6A12498CBF44C3BAD6FE078AA24B21-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/EA6A1249-8CBF-44C3-BAD6-FE078AA24B21.jpg.html)
I spent the rest of the day notching the frame rails so i could lower the F body radiator into place. what a chore that was making room for the plastic radiator tanks. getting air tools in there to make the cut was a real pain in the butt. I ended up making a rough cut with the blow torch then cleaned them up. I used an old 4x4 1/8 steel tube to box it back in.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/12/FEAEC940243D4E488A1CF1AA14860053-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/FEAEC940-243D-4E48-8A1C-F1AA14860053.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/12/408AA6F947F0475DADCF10C7019E3F84-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/408AA6F9-47F0-475D-ADCF-10C7019E3F84.jpg.html)
I still need to dress the welds a bit and box in the passenger side. after that i need to make some bent steel clamps for the top tank rubber isolators. Found out the F body fans will clear the water pump and i can also run the upper radiator hose with no issues. I need to buy a straight thermostat housing, it will allow me to run the stock F body lower hose.
The stock fuel rail will need the inlet bent upward to clear the coil packs. Forgot that I am using truck coils which sit higher than the car units. I think i will flip the rail 180* and run the fuel line down the passenger side. The drivers side is a bit busy with the master cylinder, throttle cable, and other things craping that area up.
GrabberGT
12-30-2013, 08:55 AM
I hate to say it but it looks like it was made to fit in there. Nice job.
nitroracer
12-30-2013, 06:51 PM
Does the LS sit further forward than a windsor V8 where you have it mounted? I have manual brakes that I would really like to upgrade in my 68' Fairlane and I bet that same booster and master would bolt into my car.
Does the LS sit further forward than a windsor V8 where you have it mounted? I have manual brakes that I would really like to upgrade in my 68' Fairlane and I bet that same booster and master would bolt into my car.
I can move my motor the way it sits right now. I got s set of motor mount plates with 3 positions. I also know a company that sells slider motor mounts. As far as I can tell my ls1 sits in the hole just as a factory engine would.
My car has a midland booster (almost impossible to get a new one) I plan on having it rebuilt. It provides excellent clearance to the coil packs.
1970 TT Rustang
01-01-2014, 04:04 PM
Got some work done on the mustangs exhaust today. I had a set of 98 camaro Z28 manifolds laying around so i figured i would give them a shot since they are mild steel instead of cast iron. After cutting off the huge triangle flange i realized the manifold would fit if i rerouted one tube and made a tri-y design. I used some scrap 1 3/4 tube bends i had and made a fancy connector pipe. I blew a hole in the manifold with a torch and welded it all up. I ran out of wire before i could finish though.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/011D36922AF849DBAB31ABB4EA54834C26460000-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/49CB75842FA740E591D67BE29381592A26460000-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/04/A5FBA1FFAA444B76A2310F2DD50CF6EE26460000-1.jpg
I made room for the spark plugs and made a small notch in the manifold to clear the steering box. Now that its all fitted im not sure if i will convert the car to manual steering or replace the power stuff. If i go power i need a new ram, control valve, and tie rods.
I would worry about exhaust pressure on the valve . The way you cut the header. It will work now but not for long in my opinion. Just a thought
I stopped by my folks house today and quickly mocked up the radiator in the car. I have roughly 6" or so between the apron and the radiator tank. The optima yellow top (D51R) i was researching is only 9-5/16" x 5-1/16" x 8-15/16". it should work perfect for a front mount. I really don't want to trunk mount the battery because the fuel pump will be in the trunk floor. gotta love those mustang gas tanks.
I also got the idea to use a FE big block upper radiator mount to secure the radiator. I will need to sand down some plastic fins on the radiator fans and cut and shorten the bracket but i think i can make it work. Im not going to cut up my dads original bracket, i ordered a repo along with some new rubber mounts.
here is the rough mock up. the bracket sticks out too far. needs to be shortened by an inch or so. i will most likey cut the mounting bracket and flip the part that bolts to the core support upside down to lower the brackets clamps.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/BCEBF571A7BD415F9B3D791CCE9C4616-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/BCEBF571-A7BD-415F-9B3D-791CCE9C4616.jpg.html)
here are a few pics of the lower mounts for the radiator. the driver side has a thick rubber pad it rests on and the passenger side has a spike with a rubber bushing. I will weld in some metal tabs drill a hole in one and box the other so the radiator is secure from the bottom.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/88AC1417110941559B3E46E76FA3CB57-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/88AC1417-1109-4155-9B3E-46E76FA3CB57.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/2C51F41432E4404E8A821B8EC22D1CE5-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/2C51F414-32E4-404E-8A82-1B8EC22D1CE5.jpg.html)
more pics will come saturday. i hope to at least drill the hole in the fuel tank and get that setup mocked up. I got my hands dirty on way too many side projects. LOL
ALSO! WHAT COLOR SHOULD I PAINT THE ENGINE? FORD BLUE? CHEVY ORANGE? my intake is gray, and i will most likely do the oil pan and the timing cover in the same cast gray color.
I_make_oil
01-03-2014, 03:01 AM
I've enjoyed your thread. Excellent work. I have a question. Why didn't you just install a Heidt or some other brand of Mustang 2 front suspension? It would remove the shock towers, have all new suspension and steering components and come with motor mounts? Wouldn't that have been much easier? I'm getting ready to do my '66 and that is what I'm looking at.
andrewb70
01-03-2014, 06:35 AM
I've enjoyed your thread. Excellent work. I have a question. Why didn't you just install a Heidt or some other brand of Mustang 2 front suspension? It would remove the shock towers, have all new suspension and steering components and come with motor mounts? Wouldn't that have been much easier? I'm getting ready to do my '66 and that is what I'm looking at.
Because the cost of that is much more than keeping the stock suspension.
Andrew
I_make_oil
01-04-2014, 02:31 AM
For the money he has had to spend on engine mounts, repairing stock suspension, exhaust issues and steering? The price of a complete Heidt kit with steering disc brakes and manual steering starts at $2155. He could then add power steering, engine mounts, upgraded brakes etc. How is that more expensive that what he has already done? I'm getting ready to start on my project and this is the way I'm looking to go just because it's all there for much cheaper than if I try to piece it all together not to mention it gets the shock towers out of the engine bay making tons of room. I've seen other brands going on ebay for even cheaper. Am I missing something here?
http://www.heidts.com/part/ifs-for-64-70-mustang-and-67-70-cougar-and-60-65-falcon-and-64-65-comet/
Jetfixr320
01-04-2014, 04:30 AM
Make something like this to cover and protect the tank. Then mount the battery in the trunk.
http://tankarmor.com/index.php?
lets start over again...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/9A82C91D2C1F46BFA6BAC6028BF3F84F-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/9A82C91D-2C1F-46BF-A6BA-C6028BF3F84F.jpg.html)
after ordering a set of summit racing block hugger headers i realized i was unable to install them due to my motor mount placement. they weren't going to work any way... but that sparked an idea to cut off my existing motor mounts and start over with a new motor placement that would retain the stock steering box and rear steer. what i cam up with was building some motor mount platforms since the mustang is lacking them. here is what i came up with...
first to move the engine forward to clear the steering box i needed to add some width to the shock towers. I hollowed out the inner sections and cut down the bolts for the upper control arms. I also trimmed the support structure ends and grinder them smooth. i did not disturb the factory spot welds. as you can tell the inner structure was just sheet metal. no spot welds. i will box it all in with some new metal.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/2387475EBA55466382E73FAADEF2762A-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/2387475E-BA55-4663-82E7-3FAADEF2762A.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/2420C6436FAA427C879D39B7165DF5BD-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/2420C643-6FAA-427C-879D-39B7165DF5BD.jpg.html)
next up were the new motor mount platforms. I used 3/16 plates and made support structures that will be welded to the frame rails.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/348C700D679040908F8975B1C655E6CC-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/348C700D-6790-4090-8F89-75B1C655E6CC.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/9028B26B404F467A986FFCD249738B88-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/9028B26B-404F-467A-986F-FCD249738B88.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/81363518EAD14C8B8B30332E84DA5643-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/81363518-EAD1-4C8B-8B30-332E84DA5643.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/6831425D280E40AEB23852E0B6EE6A68-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/6831425D-280E-40AE-B238-52E0B6EE6A68.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/557D4BAC31324EC1ABB3E7647C78AB6E-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/557D4BAC-3132-4EC1-ABB3-E7647C78AB6E.jpg.html)
thick plate is a blast to weld.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/4BAB0B82498541479DC330F9BB3AAB40-1.png (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/4BAB0B82-4985-4147-9DC3-30F9BB3AAB40.png.html)
I then set the motor down on the plates tacking in the old camaro frame stands.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/142F6CC4C6A44558B7A9F9A2E4AE722B-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/142F6CC4-C6A4-4558-B7A9-F9A2E4AE722B.jpg.html)
Using the LS3 Corvette manifolds i had kicking around i was able to have a pinky width around the steering box. it looks really awkward in the photos but the engine is centered over the springs and the passenger side head is 3.5" away from the firewall. I actually have access to the bell housing bolts and can run a heater now. the previous engine placement was pretty much up against the firewall. I checked my dads 390 and its about 3 fingers distance from the firewall. his big block has a similar placement as my 5.3.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/BD46AFF911F24FACAA47D8BA64137E6E-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/BD46AFF9-11F2-4FAC-AA47-D8BA64137E6E.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/BDEAC97B79B34558B86F2DBEB496EEF2-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/BDEAC97B-79B3-4558-B86F-2DBEB496EEF2.jpg.html)
and some mock up photos.
The radiator should work.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/0A54441C6B064DC894EDEFAA75DFA88E-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/0A54441C-6B06-4DC8-94ED-EFAA75DFA88E.jpg.html)
my low mount alternator also works
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/6EF69D0A539042AAA6CF60A28CD43744-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/6EF69D0A-5390-42AA-A6CF-60A28CD43744.jpg.html)
I will most likely make some new motor mounts out of plate and tubing. the camaro mounts got pretty mangled when i cut them off. also i need to center up my trans in the tunnel a bit more. all in all it was a productive day.
GrabberGT
01-13-2014, 08:20 AM
While your in the mood for cutting, you should go ahead and notch your shock towers and do the upper control arm drop.
i only needed room in the control arm bolt area. I should be okay with all the tower cutting.
I am not happy with the engine placement at all. i can place the engine in a much better location while hooked to the hoist but the camaro frame stands just dangle and won't sit on the plates. I ordered some 2.5" long 3/16 thick weld tabs i plan in making some new frame mounts out of. if i can lift the engine up another 1/4" i can slide it back more. I tacked in the camaro frame stands as a temporary fix.
andrewb70
01-14-2014, 06:06 AM
i only needed room in the control arm bolt area. I should be okay with all the tower cutting.
I am not happy with the engine placement at all. i can place the engine in a much better location while hooked to the hoist but the camaro frame stands just dangle and won't sit on the plates. I ordered some 2.5" long 3/16 thick weld tabs i plan in making some new frame mounts out of. if i can lift the engine up another 1/4" i can slide it back more. I tacked in the camaro frame stands as a temporary fix.
I am not a huge fan of the early style Chevrolet mounts. The 1970 and later mounts are a much better design. If I was making mounts from scratch, I would start with the Holley mounts: http://holley.com/12613HKR.asp
Then on the frame side, get the 2nd gen Camaro shells and use commonly available rubber inserts; they are like 4 bucks each from RockAuto.com.
Andrew
MichaelUser
01-14-2014, 11:01 AM
Looking really good. By the looks of the room at the rear of the motor/bellhousing area could you move the engine back say 1"-1-1/2"? Are you planning to use the Ford steering box or going for an aftermarket set-up?
Thanks
Looking really good. By the looks of the room at the rear of the motor/bellhousing area could you move the engine back say 1"-1-1/2"? Are you planning to use the Ford steering box or going for an aftermarket set-up?
Thanks
The plan is to use the stock steering box and suspension set up. Im going to build new motor mounts this weekend and try to position the engine back more. Its hard to find off the shelf headers or manifolds that work with the mustangs steering box.
If i was to switch to an aftermarket rack i would go with steeroids. Their rack frame bracket bolts up to the idler arm and steering box locations and the kit uses billet tie rods with adjustable bump steer. The downer is the rack and steering column is nearly $1500. But it would allow me ro run pretty much any rear dumb manifold, shorty header, or possibly a long tube design that would fit a nova or camaro.
Got my weld tabs from tab zone. $2 each, I ordered 8 to fill the 5 piece minimum order. I also got some steel tubing from home depot. Will see how these pan out.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/1021DE0C73374CA69A3C96B51E8DD068-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/1021DE0C-7337-4CA6-9A3C-96B51E8DD068.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/3FF197C369D942C4ABB2C55724F3BB7E-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/3FF197C3-69D9-42C4-ABB2-C55724F3BB7E.jpg.html)
well the engine mount idea never happened. I just could not get he engine to sit how i wanted it to with the steering box in the way. I have decided to just man up and buy a steeroids or aeroform (same thing) power rack and pinion setup to relieve myself of all this exhaust manifold madness.
i ordered a new billet bracket setup from LS brackets, it utilizes the 5.3s power steering pump but tucks it in towards the block and also lowers the alternator down to the height of the ls1 intake. the alt will be level with the cylinder head but will clear the shock tower.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
i also scored a great deal on a used 4L60E trans on craigslist! it came complete with the converter, lines, and dip stick. I decoded it, its from a 2002 4.8l silverado. i used my stock curved flex plate and it bolted up fine. i even found converter bolts that work in the autozone help section. i need to source more bell housing bolts now. the 4l60 uses 8 but i only need 7. the bell has one broken tab, no biggie tho.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/02/0F54626939474FEB944ACA65D5F141AE-1.png (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/0F546269-3947-4FEB-944A-CA65D5F141AE.png.html)
i attached it to the motor and dropped her back in along with the camaro frame stands. with the tail shaft supported by a chain i got it all to fit in there. the head is 2.5" from the firewall and the trans fits in the hole. i will fit it in better once i get the steering rack.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/02/EF61B87FC5B3475A8D211FA7975F52BE-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/EF61B87F-C5B3-475A-8D21-1FA7975F52BE.jpg.html)
the pan on this trans is a beast! i might have to further notch the old trains cross member/floor brace. you can see in this pic i cut the center section out of my old welded up th400 trans mount.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/02/771960FF0B674E7DB64C96418C6D3890-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/771960FF-0B67-4E7D-B64C-96418C6D3890.jpg.html)
since the rack and piñon will give me all the room i need for exhaust i was wondering what would fit in the car. LS3 camaro manifolds come to mind and can be had for pretty cheap but then again headers are always welcome. its far too costly to order and test fit blindly and shortys are such a waste.
now that i have a 4l60e i can finally order the correct harness from PSI. since the top end of the motor is all LS1/6 i was just going to get a harness and computer for an LS1. the trucks cam should run fine on the LS1 tune. i don't want to hassle with a truck PCM since the fuel tables and injectors for a truck are way different than a LS1.
ochohill
02-01-2014, 08:22 AM
For the money he has had to spend on engine mounts, repairing stock suspension, exhaust issues and steering? The price of a complete Heidt kit with steering disc brakes and manual steering starts at $2155. He could then add power steering, engine mounts, upgraded brakes etc. How is that more expensive that what he has already done? I'm getting ready to start on my project and this is the way I'm looking to go just because it's all there for much cheaper than if I try to piece it all together not to mention it gets the shock towers out of the engine bay making tons of room. I've seen other brands going on ebay for even cheaper. Am I missing something here?
http://www.heidts.com/part/ifs-for-64-70-mustang-and-67-70-cougar-and-60-65-falcon-and-64-65-comet/
Some people think removing the shock towers decreases chassis rigidity.
andrewb70
02-02-2014, 08:04 AM
You can get the correct style bellhousing to block bolts from McMaster Carr.
Andrew
I received my new front accessory drive yesterday. I just posted the old one for sale in the classifieds. I was unable to return it due to the sellers 14 day ebay return policy. my loss, someones gain.
aside from that i was looking to get a kilduff console shifter for the car. it would be a lot cheaper than getting the shift works 4l60e conversion for the 69 camaro shifter i have and buying a repo console.
found a pic of one installed in a mustang! check out the video on the shifter. its pretty cool if you have never seen one.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/02/0061-1.jpg
http://youtu.be/YJ7P7wE5fTo
finally pulled the trigger on a compete LS6 intake only to find out it was dropped during shipping! knowing how much of a pain in the ass ebay and pay pal can be i decided to just fit it myself.
The crack wasn't too bad. it looks like the intake took a hit to the gasket flange. The gasket saved it from completely breaking off.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/02/0FE30577466A48BCA02598E6EBCA8535-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/0FE30577-466A-48BC-A025-98E6EBCA8535.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/02/6B56687E0221471EA3A41781C5F83AFF-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/6B56687E-0221-471E-A3A4-1781C5F83AFF.jpg.html)
I then removed the gasket, heated the area up with a hair dryer and gently lifted the cracked piece back into position. This picture was take after i lightly sanded the area.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/02/3268A7A9D859408C8EE71BFED285C187-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/3268A7A9-D859-408C-8EE7-1BFED285C187.jpg.html)
I then mixed up some loctite abs/plastic 2part epoxy and filled in the entire crack area. I let it sit for 12 hours then lightly sanded the area again.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/02/F71CB4489DD7479995FDFB4DFB9ECB00-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/F71CB448-9DD7-4799-95FD-FB4DFB9ECB00.jpg.html)
I am going to replace the gasket since it has a very tiny tear in it. just as a precaution i might apply a tiny bit of black permatex RTV in the gasket flange where the crack was before fitting the new gasket.
Im just glad the rear vacuum fitting survived shipping. It still Crappy that i had to fix an expensive low mileage part!
The addition of a child drastically changes a budget so drastic times call for drastic measures! lol
here is what i have been up to...
decided the engine and ls3 manifolds would work if it were set back and lifted a bit. so out went the old firewall.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/1C22915E6B5A4D52B1D33496FEC351D3-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/1C22915E-6B5A-4D52-B1D3-3496FEC351D3.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/44651D0934454EA98272B463B4211162-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/44651D09-3445-4EA9-8272-B463B4211162.jpg.html)
and the tunnel and floors...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/EAE4988941314D418EAEBF79F6A4E33F-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/EAE49889-4131-4D41-8EAE-BF79F6A4E33F.jpg.html)
busted the green connector on my trans :(
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/08A2BC8FAD744504B8356CC4CDDD5185-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/08A2BC8F-AD74-4504-B835-6CC4CDDD5185.jpg.html)
welded my tabs to the existing frame and ditched those nasty plates i made before.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/679DF3C0DE4441F1BE71B73051A66F93-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/679DF3C0-DE44-41F1-BE71-B73051A66F93.jpg.html)
made a simple trans mount out some extra tabs i ordered and some square tubing
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/41052CE6C5094EBBB413DE2BF6B08CE5-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/41052CE6-C509-4EBB-B413-DE2BF6B08CE5.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/8C236E90A73F4A4A9E6A168D632364CA-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/8C236E90-A73F-4A4A-9E6A-168D632364CA.jpg.html)
with some ebay flanges and some elbows i have the exhaust clearance i need with the stock box.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/7C402FB7035940DB923562CBD0DBCF04-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/7C402FB7-0359-40DB-9235-62CBD0DBCF04.jpg.html)
also added some tin man fab frame connectors before i cut up the car
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/9A70ECBB40C64878A3C03056053E6023-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/9A70ECBB-40C6-4878-A3C0-3056053E6023.jpg.html)
back from the dead! i have been busy with firewall fab. butt welding sheet metal is such a pain in the butt. check out my handy work. I decided to weld in a flat 18g firewall and use existing trans tunnel by splitting it in two and lifting it up. lots of small patches to go but this is as far as i got so far.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/E4A5B40FCD68416C825E625BD9C2F928-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/E4A5B40F-CD68-416C-825E-625BD9C2F928.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/FF19F24B27CB4D50B38C272F60823E41-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/FF19F24B-27CB-4D50-B38C-272F60823E41.jpg.html)
this was loads of fun to make.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/37C5CFEA10FB48D7BD5F31B50AEB9191-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/37C5CFEA-10FB-48D7-BD5F-31B50AEB9191.jpg.html)
transition to the tunnel went better than expected.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/3B4E84C84B134873BC0A9A44AF32EB12-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/3B4E84C8-4B13-4873-BC0A-9A44AF32EB12.jpg.html)
the choppy floor... im so glad this will be out of sight. its so ugly. plan to cover it all in a thick coating of u-pol raptor.
I_make_oil
08-22-2014, 05:48 AM
Nice work. Looking good.
thank you. after seeing Andrews 67 cougar i realize i could have changed a few things to make a cleaner install.
Blue70
01-14-2015, 12:31 PM
Very cool! I have been tossing around the idea of going LS power in my 66 once I reach that point. I'll be taking notes :D
andrewb70
01-14-2015, 01:00 PM
I really hope that I don't have to do all that work to make the T56 fit in the tunnel! Ugh...
Andrew
langleylad
01-14-2015, 04:04 PM
I really hope that I don't have to do all that work to make the T56 fit in the tunnel! Ugh...
Andrew
oh , you will
langleylad
01-14-2015, 04:09 PM
Some people think removing the shock towers decreases chassis rigidity.
I installed a TCI front suspension kit in my Cougar , which means bye bye shock towers . No strength lost at all .
digitalsolo
01-14-2015, 05:12 PM
I installed a TCI front suspension kit in my Cougar , which means bye bye shock towers . No strength lost at all .
Honest question, how do you know that? Just curious.
Nice build sir! I strongly considered an LS for my build. I haven't really ruled it out yet, as I know the motors well (built some high HP setups). They are great little engines.
langleylad
01-14-2015, 05:34 PM
Honest question, how do you know that? Just curious.
Nice build sir! I strongly considered an LS for my build. I haven't really ruled it out yet, as I know the motors well (built some high HP setups). They are great little engines.
True be told , I guess I won't truly know until the car is a driver . I'm basing my statement on the fact that the frame rails have been re-enforced on 4 sides with welded in 1/8" plate 18" in length. Tied together with a stout welded in crossmember as apposed to the stock bolted in pipe crossmember .
Its been ages since i worked on the car. Just ordered a gallon of spi epoxy and waterborn wax/grease removed. Time to prime!
no go nova
01-20-2015, 09:12 PM
Lets get back to it keep us updated.
Hornet LSX
01-23-2015, 10:14 AM
Just out of curiosity what is the measurement between the shock towers? The reason I'm asking is AMC cars share a similar suspension and always looking at exhaust options to make LS motor work in AMCs. Hornets in particular. I'm thinking you might be onto something with the 351 headers with LS flanges added. I realize it's a moot point now but did you mount the LS flange to a strong flat surface? I have seen the warping problem in other project post and the solution was to strap the flange to a thick flat bar stock or spare cylinder head to keep it from warping when welding. Just a though if you decide to salvage the 351 headers for your build.
Concerning the LS1 VS LS6 intake. The advantage is from 5,500 Rpm + for added HP. Long tube exhaust over LS manifolds will potentially move the torque to lower RPM levels. So some gain in power in the lower RPMs will be a little gain in MPG potential.
Looks like you are getting things worked out. Enjoying following along with your progress.
andrewb70
01-23-2015, 10:39 AM
I don't have answers, but I do have a few comments. Hooker makes some really nice, stainless, investment cast flanges:
https://holley.com/products/exhaust/builder_components/exhaust_components/parts/11876HKR
Also, in all the dyno testing that I have seen, it seems that long tube headers add very little power to any given combination, maybe 4-8%. This of course isn't trivial, but when you consider the hassle of headers, a good set of manifolds makes a lot of sense when space is at a premium.
Andrew
worked on the stang some today. i think it took me longer to find all my tools and organize things than it did to work on the car!
Nothing too fantastic happened. i painstakingly made patches for the drivers side trans tunnel and butt welded them all in place. I also removed the pedals from the car, did some random clean up in the engine compartment, and installed just the trans so i can build the passenger side of the tunnel next time.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/01/50F458D2EE6C4165BD591A4646DADB4C-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/50F458D2-EE6C-4165-BD59-1A4646DADB4C.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/01/35925FE0B2034BBEBBF56D2829094A88-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/35925FE0-B203-4BBE-BBF5-6D2829094A88.jpg.html)
i took my car off the lift today and stole my dads old rolling stock. how do you like these old mag wheels? 215's up front and 275's out back.
andrewb70
01-24-2015, 06:24 AM
Those wheels look terrible. Sell them to me now!
Andrew
Those wheels look terrible. Sell them to me now!
Andrew
my father adores those wheels! lol
nothing major to report on. I decided to pull the trigger on a DBW setup for my car. i didnt feel like messing with a cable throttle or buying an expensive lokar pedal so i found a 5.3 DBW throttle body, pedal, and tac for a really good deal on ebay. it just got delivered today. i will most likely weld up all the remaining holes in my firewall and install a reinforcement plate to mount the DBW truck pedal to. i am glad the pedal is metal. i will have to cut it and weld it to be even with my brake pedal.
i will post pictures soon. I stated school and have even less time to work on it. all i have been doing is buying parts for it daily.
I really hope that I don't have to do all that work to make the T56 fit in the tunnel! Ugh...
Andrew
andrew, the biggest issue i had the was floor cross brace. it takes up too much room and makes the tunnel narrow. i just chopped my right out after adding some subframe connectors.
Decided to go a different direction with my car yet again. So i started toying with the idea of a turbo and found a way to make it work out. Im going to just buy a cheap ebay 76mm turbo and use higher quality parts for the blow off valve and waste gate. here is what i came up with.
I moved my engine forward a bit and was able to use my LS-brackets billet alternator and power steering set up.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/03/75844D9CAB404588B6A045BF86E2FE26-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/75844D9C-AB40-4588-B6A0-45BF86E2FE26.jpg.html)
Decided to hack up my LS3 manifolds. I bought some 2.5" long radius mild steel schedule 40 elbows from a local pipe supply. cant beat $7 each! i also ordered some mild steel 2.5" v bands and miged my manifolds with .035 wire and a heavy heat setting. My dad and i preheated everything with a torch. Here are the results.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/03/B1E3495C0E9E4871B6D554646407CBDD-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/B1E3495C-0E9E-4871-B6D5-54646407CBDD.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/03/5DEBB408BE6F4A3E83BE609A92DF1D9B-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/5DEBB408-BE6F-4A3E-83BE-609A92DF1D9B.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/03/B17D1708D5064E7CB1AC31A6E959D0B3-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/B17D1708-D506-4E7C-B1AC-31A6E959D0B3.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/03/807B31A2F1F343EDA39B1D23E90FDE84-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/807B31A2-F1F3-43ED-A39B-1D23E90FDE84.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/03/44AAC8D171F746D88954EDDF9DC67C92-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/44AAC8D1-71F7-46D8-8954-EDDF9DC67C92.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/03/4F5E0778A9D8451EA9CB17D44DF23014-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/4F5E0778-A9D8-451E-A9CB-17D44DF23014.jpg.html)
i can also run the manifolds the other way and they will clear the stock steering box if i choose to not run a turbo. Spark plug clearance is awesome with the manifolds facing forward and backward. I plan to run a simple cross over 2-1 pipe and mount the turbo on the pasenger side. Running a 3'' exhaust out of the turbo along side the passenger side valve cover and down behind the motor.
andrewb70
04-30-2015, 09:18 AM
Any updates? Looks like you are going turbo now?
Andrew
Any updates? Looks like you are going turbo now?
Andrew
yup single turbo. I haven't done much to the car lately. I went back to college to work on a second degree and that has been taking up a lot of my time. I have acquired the turbo. i went with a cheap turbo used a lot on LS1 tech. its a 76mm/68mm ON3 performance turbo with t4 housing. I went cheap on it but splurged on the waste gate and blow off. all the accessory parts are turbo smart products.
to make room for the down pipe which will go over the top of the passenger valve cover i had to ditch the factory shock tower braces. Instead i am going to make a "shock bar" much like a strut bar would be like on a modern mustang. i had some 6" steel discs cut with holes in the middle and plan on installing them under the shock caps. I will weld tabs to the circles and run tubing between the shock caps. i will then run tubes with heim joints from the main support to the cowl. i have all the heim joints, i just need the radius tabs and tabs for the main support. im running 3/4" tubing.
other than that, my old man got a champion radiator for his 67 390 fastback. its much more narrow than the Fbody rad i have. I am going to get a similar radiator with LS1 sized outlets and used the factory saddle mounts. it will allow the turbo to sit cocked towards the battery location and still clear the hood.
I acquired a built TH400 for the car that came with a host of problems. it had the wrong tail shaft on it and would not allow my large diameter slip yolk. after removing the tail housing i noticed it was missing the speedo drive gear! among other things the builder and i are not on good terms. i traded him my 4l60e for this piece. lets hope it has what he says it has in it. super hold trans go and and red alto clutches.
just been harvesting parts for the car. i found an old 5'' autometer phantom mechanical speedo from my 69 camaro build and decided to stuff it into an old 67 mustang dash bezel. i used a mustang depot support and a dremel to clearance the back side. turned out great! i won a 5'' phantom tach and 2-1/16 fuel gauge on ebay for super cheap. I still need to buy the temp and oil pressure gauges. Since these are older around the dial lighting i will get some 360* LED bulbs in either green or red for the dash.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/201A5CB5993445CFBB9F885E57277CCC-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/201A5CB5-9934-45CF-BB9F-885E57277CCC.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/52EE477998AD45A2B142209DF289DC3F-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/52EE4779-98AD-45A2-B142-209DF289DC3F.jpg.html)
1bad68cat
05-29-2015, 07:41 AM
just been harvesting parts for the car. i found an old 5'' autometer phantom mechanical speedo from my 69 camaro build and decided to stuff it into an old 67 mustang dash bezel. i used a mustang depot support and a dremel to clearance the back side. turned out great! i won a 5'' phantom tach and 2-1/16 fuel gauge on ebay for super cheap. I still need to buy the temp and oil pressure gauges. Since these are older around the dial lighting i will get some 360* LED bulbs in either green or red for the dash.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/201A5CB5993445CFBB9F885E57277CCC-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/201A5CB5-9934-45CF-BB9F-885E57277CCC.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/52EE477998AD45A2B142209DF289DC3F-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/52EE4779-98AD-45A2-B142-209DF289DC3F.jpg.html)
DCx, when did you purchase your gauge support? The last time I bought one from Mustang Depot, it was a plastic POS that did not fit that I had to return. Are they selling aluminum ones now?
Robert
DCx, when did you purchase your gauge support? The last time I bought one from Mustang Depot, it was a plastic POS that did not fit that I had to return. Are they selling aluminum ones now?
Robert
They sure are. This piece fits really nice. All of the screw holes line up perfectly after some of the platic was trimmed. They supply some PVC pipe spacers that slide over the body of the large gauges so the aluminum panel fits snug. The smaller gauges have abs cutouts that help center them. I am waiting on the tach and a 2-1/6 fuel gauge i won on ebay to arrive. i will document the install of the smaller gauges soon. I wanted to have the entire dash bezel mocked up before i order a new one.
got the rest of the gauges in! here are some build up photos of the dash.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/06/B44B65BFDD02492FBCDC6CDC6370C6B4-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/B44B65BF-DD02-492F-BCDC-6CDC6370C6B4.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/06/DD7C93FFD94C4B87906C3AF5AD642838-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/DD7C93FF-D94C-4B87-906C-3AF5AD642838.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/06/92EAF10853FA438BAE8D62FE801E4288-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/92EAF108-53FA-438B-AE8D-62FE801E4288.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/06/344CFB92E75940CBA5D6BA46752499F3_1-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/344CFB92-E759-40CB-A5D6-BA46752499F3_1.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/06/DDDF262C0AB2480BB6BB5480DA96F4C6-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/DDDF262C-0AB2-480B-B6BB-5480DA96F4C6.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/06/70BFA738C7934A23B4F642353002FA4D-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/70BFA738-C793-4A23-B4F6-42353002FA4D.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/06/4654C1AFB75342A4B0E77FEFAB96BDF0-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/4654C1AF-B753-42A4-B0E7-7FEFAB96BDF0.jpg.html)
all in all pretty straight forward. i cut the top off of the original dash and screwed it behind the aluminum support. it will allow me to use smaller screwes to secure the bezel to the dash pad. the only gripe i have about the way the gauges fit are the depth of the autometer brackets. they leave very little thread for the thumb screws. i will have to cut them down at least 1/2 inch to secure the gauges better. unless i want to hog out the holes, the original bulb sockets for the turn signal bulb sockets will be reused from the factory harness. i will have to ground the gauge support to make them function.
jaybee
06-06-2015, 12:04 PM
I love the "make it work" approach you're taking to this project.
langleylad
06-06-2015, 04:29 PM
Can I ask for a favour ? could you please measure the center to center distance between the speedo and tach . I'm building a 68 Cougar and the Mustang bezel and Cougar are almost identical .
Can I ask for a favour ? could you please measure the center to center distance between the speedo and tach . I'm building a 68 Cougar and the Mustang bezel and Cougar are almost identical .
the center to center is roughly 8" for the speedo and tach.
langleylad
06-11-2015, 02:58 PM
Thanks , it's approx. 7 1/2" on the Cougar bezel so I'm sure the Mustang is the same . The Cougar bezel only has locations for the speedo , tach and one small area between the two . Thanks again .
Thanks , it's approx. 7 1/2" on the Cougar bezel so I'm sure the Mustang is the same . The Cougar bezel only has locations for the speedo , tach and one small area between the two . Thanks again .
i measured the aluminum gauge support so it is most likely has a larger opening than the plastic bezel. i think with a little cutting you could possibly use it on the cougar dash.
I decided to go cheap and mod my gas tank myself. I went to a local pick a part and got a 2000 mustang gas tank for $20. I cut the fuel pump ring off the top and drilled the fuel pump basket spot welds out. I bought a 98 cobra fuel pump module (has 3/8 feed, 5/16 return) with a walbro 255 pump installed. all in all i have in tank efi for under $200.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/D5D80F17CCE14311B06759AE333E50C6-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/D5D80F17-CCE1-4311-B067-59AE333E50C6.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/A5AECA589ECA48F8AED7602D59BCF10D-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/A5AECA58-9ECA-48F8-AED7-602D59BCF10D.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/FFD6E6A370B542EF91D5A1850D1EF858-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/FFD6E6A3-70B5-42EF-91D5-A1850D1EF858.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/611F5C83781A4C02B8451AF3E35E3441-1.png (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/611F5C83-781A-4C02-B845-1AF3E35E3441.png.html)
the mustang fuel pump module is pretty unique, the pump assembly snaps into the welded basket and the hat is separate and connected by the feed hoses. The 98 mustang gt and cobra were the only year that used this basket setup with a feed and a return line in the hat, the previous years used the pump on a stick setup like a fox body. all years above 98 used a PWM fuel pump with only a single feed line.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/D35E8ADD5F90453C9482D1F0233C10BF-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/D35E8ADD-5F90-453C-9482-D1F0233C10BF.jpg.html)
running a vette filter regulator
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/16D15C26FD8F4ACDBB271CA3974FBC34-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/16D15C26-FD8F-4ACD-BB27-1CA3974FBC34.jpg.html)
also picked up a Holley HP LS1 kit.
I ditched the GTO pan and went with a canton front sump. Gives loads of room for the factory cross brace and steering. Im going with manual for now, but power will be an easy upgrade.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/706F1D1E7FE44E3D8CA9E8E7CDBE4CD9-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/706F1D1E-7FE4-4E3D-8CA9-E8E7CDBE4CD9.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/17012B1F9124429A967AF8D3BD836AC8-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/17012B1F-9124-429A-967A-F8D3BD836AC8.jpg.html)
ditched the power steering pump and re located the idler pulley. easy swap back to power if needed.
andrewb70
01-02-2016, 08:36 PM
That alternator may hit the fender. I have the Holley alternator bracket and it's very close. That bracket looks like it's even farther out.
Here is a decent picture to show how close it is...
https://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/cougar/489.jpg
Andrew
*edit* Or not....I see in a previous post you already had it mocked up...LOL
Protour_Pinto
01-03-2016, 12:28 AM
Just went through the thread. Scope Creep has been crazy on this one!
It funny, mess with a Mustang and the purists get their pantys in a wad. I didnt have one person give me crap about putting a Caddy in a Pinto.
Jimbo1367
01-03-2016, 09:52 AM
. I didnt have one person give me crap about putting a Caddy in a Pinto.
Huh. Go figure.
progress has been very slow. I went back to school, who would have thought a Masters Degree would stall my progress... lol
I had major issues with my th400 trans i picked up back in April. The guy i got it from was super sketchy and i got screwed on the deal. I had to replace the tail shaft on it. he some how threw on a th375 tail, thankfully the trans is a TH400 and had the larger main shaft. found out the filter tube was wrong, governor was missing, speedo drive gear and driven gear missing. mixed bolts on the pan, greasy case was painted over. thankfully the inside looks good and has new gaskets and seals. I have my fingers crossed it runs okay.
I had a Champion 24" core 67 mustang big block radiator made for the car. I had the outlet and inlet sized appropriately for an LS motor. I need to adapt my F body fans to it.
I will photograph more of my goodies as i get time. I am about to take a load of sandblasted parts to get powdercoated.
xsboost90
01-06-2016, 12:50 PM
Cant wait to see this running.
did a little work on my hacked up trans tunnel. i used sheet metal screws to form the patch to the floor then i cut it out with body saw and welded it in.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/54938CF2AEA842F09D2595C0C95F7EBE-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/54938CF2-AEA8-42F0-9D25-95C0C95F7EBE.jpg.html)
Pt109
01-29-2016, 10:03 PM
cool project. I likw the ls in the car but my brother, however would bite his tongue off screaming about this. For those moments i just tell him it is cuz you want to win a race. LOL. I hope you are saving money for lots of tires tho.
That alternator may hit the fender. I have the Holley alternator bracket and it's very close. That bracket looks like it's even farther out.
Here is a decent picture to show how close it is...
https://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/cougar/489.jpg
Andrew
*edit* Or not....I see in a previous post you already had it mocked up...LOL
looking at this again it looks like you duplicated the same wiring as a 10/12SI alternator? i just watched a youtube video on a 10si to cs130 conversion and the guy used a gm harness pigtail that has a resistor in line and the additional wire for the "bat" stud.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/61yd8v3IjrL_SX355_-1.jpg
thanks again Andrew!
andrewb70
02-11-2016, 07:57 AM
looking at this again it looks like you duplicated the same wiring as a 10/12SI alternator? i just watched a youtube video on a 10si to cs130 conversion and the guy used a gm harness pigtail that has a resistor in line and the additional wire for the "bat" stud.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/61yd8v3IjrL_SX355_-1.jpg
thanks again Andrew!
I don't have a wire from the 4 pin plug going to the Batt terminal. I have the L terminal going to the Dominator through a resistor and I have the S terminal going to the hot side of the starter relay, which is what I'm using for most of my additional power feeds.
Andrew
I don't have a wire from the 4 pin plug going to the Batt terminal. I have the L terminal going to the Dominator through a resistor and I have the S terminal going to the hot side of the starter relay, which is what I'm using for most of my additional power feeds.
Andrew
im just going to use the holley alternator plug i have with the resistor already installed and call it a day!
andrew, i ordered a painless (3) relay bank (pn:30107) to trigger the fuel pump and my fans. looking at the holley hp diagram the harness already has a fuel pump relay that can handle 12 amps, i saw in a holley forum that you can use the large green wire to trigger an additional relay if you have a large amp draw on the pump. is that what you did, run a separate relay from the green power wire? the fuel pump is powered by the ecu already so it isn't a separate programmable output like the fans correct?
i will have a week off from work and school here shortly. expect lots of progress.
************* never mind! did more digging and discovered this!
I've never used the ECU's fuel pump trigger wire to directly power the pump (even if it is less than 10 amps).
I've always used a separate relay (2nd relay) because that green wire is still only 14 AWG.
The 2nd fuel pump relay is used so the fuel injectors aren't subjected to the pump's amp draw.
It's only a 20 amp fuse and it also feeds power to the fuel injectors (& ignition coils - LSx).
I prefer to use 10 gauge wire due to its long length, especially for high output race pumps.
You'd simply use the green fuel pump wire to trigger the primary fuel pump relay.
andrewb70
02-18-2016, 09:00 AM
Here is what I did for the fuel pump relay:
http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1743605-1967-cougar-build-over-500-pictures-videos-12.html#post18833535
Andrew
I spent most of the day figuring out a way to mount my champion 3 core radiator I had made. I chose a big block mustang radiator but had the outlet and inlet swapped and sized for an LS motor. I originally wanted to use the factory saddle brackets for a big block but quickly realized that the way the radiator was made the tank sat on the frame rather than the repo saddles I purchased. Also the core is too thick and the top bracket would not fit. I moved to plan B and got some 1/4 inch thick aluminum bar stock off ebay and made my own radiator mounts. I drilled and tapped it to mount the radiator 1/8 of an inch from touching the frame rails. To top it all off I butchered a set of 2000 Camaro SS fans I had laying around and mounted them to the fan shroud brackets. All in all, I am please with the way it turned out.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/FD00B67AD03F4E03B3430564BB619A26-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/FD00B67A-D03F-4E03-B343-0564BB619A26.jpg.html)
I marked the aluminum, i still need to cut out the overlap.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/C07169F3C3DE4788B17FF7A03A40F04A-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/C07169F3-C3DE-4788-B17F-F7A03A40F04A.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/E7A3B0E0A38B4F78BA3408ABDCAEF5A1-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/E7A3B0E0-A38B-4F78-BA34-08ABDCAEF5A1.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/474C546252114E08AF08D3AEF5371DED-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/474C5462-5211-4E08-AF08-D3AEF5371DED.jpg.html)
I also pulled out the parking brake from under the dash. My pull handle was broken and I could not get the pin out of the handle for the life of me. I ended up cutting off the old handle with the grinder and pulling the knurled pin out with vise grips. I will replace it with a billet handle in the future.
I test fitted my 10" speedway torque converter. plugged into the trans just fine. what do you all think of this gap? its about .20, i stacked all the washers from the ARP bolts i have and its a perfect fit. do you think i should use all 3 washers or just 2 washers and pull the converter forward a bit?
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/03/7FBC094CCAA0473293B5A474EBB3E943-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/7FBC094C-CAA0-4732-93B5-A474EBB3E943.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/03/BC545DCB12F74E7E9A2D24D1B90C63EF-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/BC545DCB-12F7-4E7E-9A2D-24D1B90C63EF.jpg.html)
I also cut up a cheap-o TH400 flex plate shield from ebay and made it work on my 5.3.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/03/29B4026CE5BB497F8142C6DA72EB6A1C-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/29B4026C-E5BB-497F-8142-C6DA72EB6A1C.jpg.html)
yes, i cut the "ears" off my trans case. i drilled and tapped the case to accept the shield.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/03/FD12A5D02C7F40A094F39307FC07A1DA-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/FD12A5D0-2C7F-40A0-94F3-9307FC07A1DA.jpg.html)
I took a load of parts to the powder coaters last week. they turned out better than expected. I use all of the original parts off of the car. since the vent and quarter window frames had some heavy pits and peeling chrome i just had them blasted and coated. some of the large pits are still visible, but that doesn't bother me much.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/7311220C678347E0859DBE6BF59ACA50-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/7311220C-6783-47E0-859D-BE6BF59ACA50.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/C18EB8DD20364E0DB5CE585D3FEC2D92-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/C18EB8DD-2036-4E0D-B5CE-585D3FEC2D92.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/2E55F38DD832402FB4323BAE5F2B4F5D-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/2E55F38D-D832-402F-B432-3BAE5F2B4F5D.jpg.html)
this is the worst area of pitting on the drivers vent frame. its only noticeable when you look for it.
I just dropped off a pop open gas cap, tail light buckets, and all of the front and rear glass window trim. next after that the bumpers and my choice of rims will get the same gloss black.
chunger
05-19-2016, 04:35 PM
If you don't mind me asking, what did it run you to get all that powercoated?
It looks great, btw!
If you don't mind me asking, what did it run you to get all that powercoated?
It looks great, btw!
not at all! everything pictured plus the door glass surround stainless (not pictured) was $280. that price included:
Vent window frames
vent glass frames
quarter window frames
door glass trim
door handles and buttons
reverse light housings
parking light housings and brackets
tail light trim bezels (6 total, 4 pictured)
headlight retaining rings
all these parts were original ford pieces, removed from the car and boxed up. they were dirty, pitted, and peeling. the shop baked, blasted, and acid stripped most of them. i cant wait to see how the gas cap and window stainless turns out!
the powder coat is far less thick than expected. the glass channels are .33 and the glass is .22 thick. leaves me with roughly .055 thickness for setting tape. i can use the recommended 1/16 tape or chance using 3/64 tape for the difference. i may try both and see what fits the best.
what do you think i should do about mirrors for the car? mine came equipped with a drivers remote mirror only. after taking it apart i just gave up and realized that it would be a pain in the butt to disassemble completely to have powder coated. I am going to roll the dice on this one and buy two 67 square manual mirrors and have them powder coated. I was reading on some other forums that i can heat the mirror with a propane torch and wait for the glass to fall out. I have searched high and low for replacement glass for a mustang mirror but cannot find any! if this method does not work i will have to use drastic measures and go with some 67 camaro manual mirrors. They had vent windows so they are angled right for a mustang and THEY MAKE REPLACEMENT GLASS FOR THEM! that way i can just bust it out and reinstall it afterwards.
I want zero exterior stainless and chrome. I might have to have the door and trunk locks coated with a key inserted in them so just the fronts get powder coated.
I am missing one side of thin grill trim and my center joint is all mangled. i got a replacement center joint coming in the mail from ebay for $10. i hope its shape is usable. I need to also get a replacement hood lip molding, mine has a heavy dent right in the middle. it amazes me that the front clip or my car was perfect and both headlight buckets are immaculate but the hood trim is banged up.
as far as the grill goes, mine got mangled. im sure i could hammer the frame straight, cut out the center and weld in some diamond mesh but i think i am just going to get an ebay billet piece and have it coated.
I bought a wheel works wheel fit 45 kit and tested multiple combinations with a new set of 275/35/18 bridgestone pole position tires. I finally settled on a 9.5" rim with 5.5" back spacing. I really like the results! I unbolted the U bolts on the axle and supported it on jack stands and lowered the car body to simulate ride height. I will let the pics show the results.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/EBC2B51F51F940D0AA560A30386D3C76-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/EBC2B51F-51F9-40D0-AA56-0A30386D3C76.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/7737436E75F54A69BD7F6EDEB2A5BAE7-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/7737436E-75F5-4A69-BD7F-6EDEB2A5BAE7.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/CDB8AD377FA749FA8D536A2C0E37B5AA-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/CDB8AD37-7FA7-49FA-8D53-6A2C0E37B5AA.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/4E93671E81D042FF889FF22D5526297E-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/4E93671E-81D0-42FF-889F-F22D5526297E.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/D8D72FD59FDC4103AD68988450DC7E0B-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/D8D72FD5-9FDC-4103-AD68-988450DC7E0B.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/87A288E22BF74C3A90F7437C0701969C-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/87A288E2-2BF7-4C3A-90F7-437C0701969C.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/148F0677185540F7A0C79709878E4540-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/148F0677-1855-40F7-A0C7-9709878E4540.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/EC13F3C2A0B148ABB6E22DA0933573CE-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/EC13F3C2-A0B1-48AB-B6E2-2DA0933573CE.jpg.html)
I also put the wheel fit into some 225/40/18 and tested them up front with a simulated 8" wheel with 4.5 back space. It was perfect, no contact at all lock to lock and it fit nicely in the fender.
i picked up some Ridler 695's from ebay for $535 shipped... they are a generic 5 spoke coys/troque thrust knock off but i couldn't beat the price for the correct 18x9.5/5.5BS and 18x8/4.5BS wheels.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/96B2972F7DA3438B8C80C7B39D00F795-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/96B2972F-7DA3-438B-8C80-C7B39D00F795.jpg.html)
LowFast
05-31-2016, 12:38 PM
Run the axle up to the bump stops to make certain it does not rub on full compression. To me it looks like it will rub unless you have very limited axle travel.
I wonder if the addition of caltracs would make the axle travel less. i have DSE 3" drop springs and caltracs on my 69 camaro, it too has 275/35/18s that are tucked into the wheel well and it doesn't rub at all with 2 adults in the back seat at car shows.
Forgot to post this... I love the way the gas cap turned out! it was a really cruddy original $50 ebay piece with scratches and a missing emblem. I took a dremel and cut the brass button off the inside and removed the self sealing cap. the gasket was shot on it and it needed to go in order to have it coated. i will just run a screw on cap behind this.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/06/46D469CF4CAA44DB960B19207F8CC62E-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/46D469CF-4CAA-44DB-960B-19207F8CC62E.jpg.html)
In less than 48 hours my wheels showed up unannounced! I got an email from the ebay seller after they were delivered! I was at work and they sat on my porch all day. Thank goodness no one took them.
I don't know why people knock cast wheels, i know they are heavy and just not as cool as some 3 piece forged wheels but in my opinion these are beautiful and only cost about $130 a wheel! The only cons i have about them are the plastic center caps. The are a little cheesy so they will be swapped out for some flat 2.5" Black aluminum pieces from american muscle.
The gray is growing on me... too bad it wont last long. These guys are getting coated in the same gloss black as the rest of the car.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/06/9A00D6200A6C433894858B6BA3B9CFFA-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/9A00D620-0A6C-4338-9485-8B6BA3B9CFFA.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/06/E87EF9B269D3444495C3F77CF7C20F0E-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/E87EF9B2-69D3-4444-95C3-F77CF7C20F0E.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/06/497D219970F94F6080DE259236CD67B5-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/497D2199-70F9-4F60-80DE-259236CD67B5.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/06/013D3059D44940F5B67A77138F6C7C47-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/013D3059-D449-40F5-B67A-77138F6C7C47.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/06/05C7827328174C6B862816706B9D8A37-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/05C78273-2817-4C6B-8628-16706B9D8A37.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/06/BEAD933A56464C5697DBE120740D3580-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/BEAD933A-5646-4C56-97DB-E120740D3580.jpg.html)
injcted
06-02-2016, 08:19 AM
Great work! Cant wait to see the finished product!!!!
I took the wheels to powder coat yesterday. They should be ready in a week. I went to a different shop so i hope the color of their gloss black matches the rest of the parts. The previous shop lost a piece of my windshield stainless, which i promptly replaced with another original from ebay at my cost... i am yet to receive the trim or have it coated.
Its always 2 steps forward and 1 back for me...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/06/ACF605651D6D46858DBE2049163C4245-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/ACF60565-1D6D-4685-8DBE-2049163C4245.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/06/80C80AAC9A334E8AAC546284C3D3ACBE-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/80C80AAC-9A33-4E8A-AC54-6284C3D3ACBE.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/06/DB3E016B41ED4447A15054FDE5C0129A-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/DB3E016B-41ED-4447-A150-54FDE5C0129A.jpg.html)
I only had time to throw one wheel on the car. After i had the rims powder coated the tire installer put one of my rear tires on the wrong way and chipped up my rim pretty good getting the tire off. I have 3 mounted wheels now and a rim that needs a re-do. Not at all happy about that. As soon as i can get the rim fixed and the tire mounted I will let it down on its suspension or mount the wheels on my dads fastback since it sits pretty low with its 4.5 mid eye leafs.
among other things, I added a Mustang steve cobra front brake kit. Still waiting on my calipers.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/07/CA0CFDDD50124051B23B93C6754720F3-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/CA0CFDDD-5012-4051-B23B-93C6754720F3.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/07/0ECE2D133BFA46D09DA2358BA0FE6926-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/0ECE2D13-3BFA-46D0-9DA2-358BA0FE6926.jpg.html)
- - - Updated - - -
I am still waiting on the rim to get re-coated. in the meantime I tossed in some 4.5 leaf grab-a-trak leafs and ordered up a boss 302 style cross member from Pacific Thunder Performance Engineering. What a beautiful piece of craftsmanship and a great company to deal with. It came with eccentric lockout plates and all the hardware (not pictured) necessary.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/07/EEC6537EAFC74E6D88A118FBA0ADE85D-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/EEC6537E-AFC7-4E6D-88A1-18FBA0ADE85D.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/07/761CA93747724C1BA5BF42010DCE3ED8-1.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/user/justingiese/media/761CA937-4772-4C1B-A5BF-42010DCE3ED8.jpg.html)
Angelo
07-09-2016, 02:29 AM
These are 295/35 ZR CONTINENTALS on 18x 9.5's as well probably the same backspace but I dont recall. Shortened 8.8 and a simple sway bar took care of the rubbing. I like your blacked out rims and gas cap. Gloss is definitely the way to go.
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