Brake lines

[DButler]

I am currently upgrading to c5 brakes on my 67 camaro. I am running a 1" bore wilwood master cylinder. I have wilwood proportioning valve. I am wanting to redo my brake lines, so my question is what is the best size to run in front and rear and alsofrom front to rear. Does it need to be bigger? Where is the best source to get aluminum or steel lines. Is everyone running straight lengths from front to back or using rolls? I would like to have one piece from front to rear lines. Any help is greater appreciated. Thanks

[dontlifttoshift]

3/16" is the size to run. AN (if running stainless) is -3

Aluminum line is not the way to go. Some people very strongly recommend against even aluminum fitting but I have never had a problem. Either use steel line with a 45 degree double flare or stainless with a 37 degree single flare.

One piece frotn to back will be hard to do without buying a coil of line. I prefer to buy straight lengths and bend from there. Steel line can be sourced from the local parts store. Stainless line you can get from many sources but i get mine from McMaster.com Stainless line must be seamless.

[Apogee]

Another option for tubing material is 90/10 Copper/Nickel tubing...all the pros but with none of the cons associated with steel Bundy tubing or stainless IMO.

Tobin
KORE3

[cheapthrillz]

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Nickel-Copper-Alloy-Brake-Line-Coil---3-16%22-x-25-NiCopp_16190029-P_N3106A_A%7CGRP2037_____

[TheJDMan]

I'm in the process of replacing my entire brake system. I purchased a pre-bent line kit from Inline Tube.

http://www.inlinetube.com/

I also ordered a complete FlexKORE hose kit from Kore3.

[The WidowMaker]

i like the idea of the copper nickel tubing being easy to run. does it look like stainless? cost seems more reasonable than stainless as well.

[LSxChevelle]

Many different kits on inlinetube.com So I have manual drums now...I plan to put the $300 non-power disc brake kit on for about a year or 2...then will upgrade to C6 Z06 w/ power.

Body will come off in spring so I can powder coat frame, install new suspension, and would like to run new lines. What would make the best purchase? Buy the non-power disc kit and modify later for power when I do the C6 Z06 setup?

http://www.inlinetube.com/Preformed%20Lines/Chevrolet%20A-body%2068-72/Brake%20Lines/CHB7004.htm

Sorry to hijack....

[Apogee]

i like the idea of the copper nickel tubing being easy to run. does it look like stainless? cost seems more reasonable than stainless as well.

It has a much deeper copper-gold tint or hue to it as you might expect, but it will polish up almost as bright as stainless if you want.

Tobin
KORE3

[DirtShark]

I vote bend your own as it give you the freedom to place everything were you like.


52669

[CFster]

Another option for tubing material is 90/10 Copper/Nickel tubing...all the pros but with none of the cons associated with steel Bundy tubing or stainless IMO.

Tobin
KORE3

+1. I did the entire car with cunifer (copper/nickel). They've been using it Europe or years.

[MonzaRacer]

The copper/nickel stuff would be ok but every time I try to use roll tubing I have a bitch of a time getting it straight so it looks good. If I am doing a quick and dirty repair its ok but I still prefer using regular inverted flare or iso flare and new tube nuts and unions to build it from different lengths of line.
Sonce getting my hand bender that can do 180 bends and my hydraulic flaring tool Ihave had zero issues doing near perfect copies of stock line or custom lines.
But thats me.

http://catalog.fmsiinc.com/plp/viewitems.aspx?cid=4885&categoryname=brake-lines&productname=cupro-nickel-brake-lines
http://www.agscompany.com/automotive/brake-fuel-transmission-lines/nicopp

Havent used any but will look for some straight lines to try!

[MonzaRacer]

More brake line and other stuff I found:
http://catalog.fmsiinc.com/plp/viewitems.aspx?cid=4885&categoryname=brake-lines&productname=cupro-nickel-brake-lines
http://catalog.fmsiinc.com/viewitems/master-cylinder-repair-lines/er-a-b-s-stainless-steel-hose-section-repair-lines?&bc=100|1001|1010|1038
http://catalog.fmsiinc.com/category/tube-nuts
http://catalog.fmsiinc.com/category/brake-line-adapters
http://catalog.fmsiinc.com/category/flex-line-gaskets-bolts
http://catalog.fmsiinc.com/viewitems/hardware/steel-and-nylon-tubing-retainer-clips?&bc=100|1001|1010|1122
http://catalog.fmsiinc.com/viewitems/hardware/steel-tubing-armor?&bc=100|1001|1010|1121
http://catalog.fmsiinc.com/viewitems/hardware/union-tees?&bc=100|1001|1010|1127
http://catalog.fmsiinc.com/viewitems/bleeder-screws-rubber-caps/bleeder-screws?
http://catalog.fmsiinc.com/viewitems/brass-unions/hi-flow-heavy-wall-brake-line-union?&bc=100|1001|1010|1044
http://catalog.fmsiinc.com/viewitems/brake-system/brake-kits-assortments?&bc=100|1001
http://catalog.fmsiinc.com/category/fuel-system?
http://catalog.fmsiinc.com/category/air-conditioning-system
http://catalog.fmsiinc.com/category/transmission-oil-system?
http://catalog.fmsiinc.com/category/original-equipment-terminals

[DButler]

So for the line going to the back do I need to couple it or can I buy one straigth length that will be long enough to go front master cylinder to rear lines after making bends? This is the reason i mentioned using a coil and 3/16" is plenty to supply rear lines as well?

[DButler]

and also is the c5 lines a different flare type?

[Apogee]

I believe the straight lengths of pre-flared tubing are limited to 72" for shipping purposes. Most of the custom tubing suppliers can provide single-piece rear lines with a shipping bend or two such that it will comply with normal parcel shipping sizes and limitations.

I'm not sure that I understand why you're asking about the C5 hard lines...or did I misunderstand your question? You may be using C5 calipers, however you're going to need a flexible caliper hose to connect the M10x1.0 inlet port on the caliper to the hard lines. What fittings you decide to use at the hard line connection with the caliper hose can be anything, however most people choose to stick with the standard 3/8-24 double-inverted flare fittings as originally supplied on your '67 Camaro. If you're flaring everything yourself and running custom hoses, you can actually pick anything you want, but "standard" is usually easiest in my experience.

Tobin
KORE3

[MonzaRacer]

Did anyone see the flexible stainless line with steel on each end in list I posted.

[DButler]

I meant the flex line connection. I know the felxible line attaches to caliper, but is the connection on flexible line where it attaches to metal line just a stanard double flare? Also on the rear flanges of the axles to make them fit the c5 rotors I know some needs to be machined off. After looking it seems to be a very smal amount. Is it necessary to pull axle and machine or can this small smount be filed or ground off without pulling axles?

[DButler]

Also I don't think I seen where anyone commented on using a couplings to tie two lines together. Is this a bad idea?

[davidk68]

David,
I've used a coupling in my rear line for many years and have never had a problem. No leaks and I doubt that there's any significant pressure differnece. It definitely makes getting the line through up by the firewall easier. I usually put it somewhere around the drivers seat. I'd also advize you to get a decent tubing bender, a good double flaring tool (doesn't have to be hydraulic) and make your own. It's not that hard and with a little practice you'll be able to make your own line, route it like you want, and save money too.

DK

[TheJDMan]

Inline tube sells kits with either one-piece front to back line or two piece front to back line. Your choice. In my case the car came with a one-piece so that is what I went back with.

[a67]

Also I don't think I seen where anyone commented on using a couplings to tie two lines together. Is this a bad idea?

I used one on the '67 in the front-to-rear line. No issues using them as long as it is an inverted flare coupling (F & F for M line nuts).

Bob.

[DButler]

On the rear axle is it necessary to pull axles and machine flanges for such small amount or can it be filed or grinded off. It seems like a very small amount but I don't know I would rather not pull axles but if I need to then thats what I will do. The rotor looks like it fits on there flush until you look close and it just barely doesn't clear.

[Apogee]

On the rear axle is it necessary to pull axles and machine flanges for such small amount or can it be filed or grinded off. It seems like a very small amount but I don't know I would rather not pull axles but if I need to then thats what I will do. The rotor looks like it fits on there flush until you look close and it just barely doesn't clear.

David, it depends on the diameter of your axles and the rotors that you're using since they're not all the same. We usually cut axles and/or hubs for the worst case scenario so that all C5/C6 rotors, those being used now and any possibly rotor in the future, will fit. That said, you can certainly grind down the axle flanges on the car if you want to do it that way, although considering how easy it is to pull the axles and put them in a lathe, I tend to opt for that method myself. FWIW, we cut our hubs/axles to 5.94" diameter with an 1/8" x 45 degree chamfer.

Tobin
KORE3

[DButler]

Alright. Thanks for the help.

[MonzaRacer]

Coupling lines is simply using inverted flare unions or ISO bubble flare unions. Now if you need to do an emergency repair on brake lines use a steel compression fitting its street legal but probably not race legal. Then you repair with flares and unions later on.
I use my hydraulic flaring tool, and my bender to make my lines in pieces then assemble to fit.While not exactly oem I like making my own lines.
So far only place iknow to get steel compression fittings are at NAPA, I also like using them for trans lines, PS lines etc.
While one piece lines from one of the companies might be a quick install with little fab work, most ofthe stuf we do is custom anyway and it makes more sense to make my own, besides havent seen any prebent ffor my Monza!

[DButler]

I also want to do custom lines because I can make them cleaner looking and route them around things and away from Turbo heat....I will only a coupling on rear main line and I think it will be fine...I really appreciate all the input.