Shaved drip rail...bad idea for rain?

[LSxChevelle]

So I love the look of the shaved drip rail...want to do on my 70!

But... Is that a bad idea if the car will see rain?

5198951990

[LSxChevelle]

Here is another great looking one...

I also see it has the flush mount glass and the rear edge of the hood has been cleaned up to be perfect without the molding. Nice touch!
51991

[jlcustomz]

Going to shave the rails on my el camino later. As a residential door installer in a coastal area, I can say that if the outer surface has a hint of overhang{goes back up underneath] before getting to the rest of the surface, this can break the bond of the sheeting water. If the upper surface is connected to he inward surface, water will follow. . Hope I properly explained that. Make sense??

[LSxChevelle]

I do think I get what you are saying...good point!

[LSxChevelle]

Hopefully it shows in my pic...like this?

51992

[Yelcamino]

I shaved the drip rails smooth (no overhang) on my El Camino in '00 and I haven't had any issues with the rain. In fact, I drove it on two Power Tour Long Hauls and got rained on most of the time not to mention all the other rain storms it's been in, including a hail storm! If you like the look, go for it!

[LSxChevelle]

I shaved the drip rails smooth (no overhang) on my El Camino in '00 and I haven't had any issues with the rain. In fact, I drove it on two Power Tour Long Hauls and got rained on most of the time not to mention all the other rain storms it's been in, including a hail storm! If you like the look, go for it!

That's what I like to hear...

Now I need to practice welding so I can do most of it myself. Just leave the finishing work for the body shop.

[nekkidhillbilly]

as long as your seals are good you shouldnt have any problems

[jlcustomz]

The main function of factory driprails was as much for manufacturing purposes as it was for water, new carsdon,t have them. Aslong as the portion after the roofmetal is 90 degrees like your pics or ahint upward , that should suffice.However if the metal did let's say a 45 degree angle downwards after the outermost end of the roof, water would tend to sheet up & follow.

[armourmark]

You will be just fine shaving them. It will not be a problem with rain.

[68camotion]

I think the whole idea of shaved drip rails is taking away from the classic looks of the muscle cars. It does look good though.

[ProTourGSX]

The purpose of the drip rail is actually to channel water to the rear of the vehicle, and down the 1/4 panel (outer skin), to keep excess from running down the window, into the inner door (why lower doors are commonly rusted out, and hard to find good solid ones). Driving in occasional rain should be acceptable, but not constant water exposure.

Personally, I like the shaved look on older cars!

[Mr.VENGEANCE]

yea.. but its soo cool!

[MyFriendScott]

Hopefully it shows in my pic...like this?51992

I'm I that stupid that I don't see any difference between "No Overhang" and "Overhang"?

[Poopy]

I'm I that stupid that I don't see any difference between "No Overhang" and "Overhang"?

Same here...lol I couldnt figure out the difference.

[jlcustomz]

I'm I that stupid that I don't see any difference between "No Overhang" and "Overhang"?

I can see on my widescreen. It,s a very small almost unnoticable down & out lip on the metal, not some big hideous monster. When dealing with waterdraining, a small , sometimes almost unnoticeable shape difference to direct water away instead of following inwards can make a huge difference. Also if you'll notice in the drawing the metal returning to the car is level. As long as it's at least level or preferably slightly running back upwards, it is hard for water to follow. If the return metal was running downhill, water could more easily follow.

[TT302Z28]

We did this to a 70 Chevelle a few years ago. Turned out great and no problems.

[chevnut55]

I returned a 69 camaro and 67 chevelle back to a stock driprail after someone shaved them when shaving everything and painting it all one color was cool.
they were bolth cracked and blistered .
If you do it do it wright so neither happens also its tough to return to stock so make shure you like it enough.

[MrQuick]

I'm I that stupid that I don't see any difference between "No Overhang" and "Overhang"?



Same here...lol I couldnt figure out the difference.

if you look real close theres a tip hanging down. Shaved looks so much cleaner....
wow lots of wrong in my comments.

If you guys do it i'd recommend tig welding w/silicon bronze between tacks..or just watch your temp...a lot can go wrong if you aren't careful. Also cut and tack in small sections. Don't cut the whole rail off at once.

[ATOMonkey]

An alternate method is to weld a shallow channel into the roof skin. This gives the shaved look, but also keep the water out of your lap when you open the door.

For instance...(not a great pic, but you get the idea)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/DSC_6592-1.jpg

[chevnut55]

Do they make thouse cheap stick on rain sheilds for old chevelles?

[Riderz Cycle]

I did mine and love the look....Haven't been caught in the rain yet so we will see. I did a slight modification to mine after removing the drip rail I went back and welded the two panels together then went back and welded in 1/4' round stock along the inside to close the gap back up....

[JRouche]

The purpose of the drip rail is actually to channel water to the rear of the vehicle, and down the 1/4 panel (outer skin), to keep excess from running down the window, into the inner door (why lower doors are commonly rusted out, and hard to find good solid ones). Driving in occasional rain should be acceptable, but not constant water exposure.

Personally, I like the shaved look on older cars!

Good explanation and I think it has some merit. But... I think jlcustomz nailed it. I also think it was an ease of manufacturing choice for the auto manufactures at the time. These days cars dont have drip rails. But they also have alot of robots and improved manufacturing methods.

If you ever rip out the drip rails you will see its a common seam folded joint. And I say common not cause its an easy operation, only that it is used alot. I think to put a triple fold seam on a roof panel that can have many shape changes would be difficult without buckling the roof.

Now a days they are welded seams. Remove them. They are not needed. They were needed back then to make the car and the high paid marketing division made sure to point out that they were there for a users needs, NOT their need to mount a roof panel to the door frame :)

Umm? If you are gonna remove the drip rails make SURE to find some good info. You actually can find folks that cut the entire folded seam out all at once then they welded it up either completely or just tacked it and filled with body filler. You will see the posts and pics. NOT!!!!! Ummm? NOT!!! The way to do it IMO.

Find some good info and do it correctly. If done wrong you could end up "flipping" the roof panel up.

I removed my drip rail. And NOT saying I did it correctly. But the way I did it will give you less drama in the end. Its not a difficult process. Not a quick simple process either. But it can be done in one afternoon.

And I want to preface, when welding make sure to look at ALL the areas that are flammable. Some welding blankets are a good investment and so is looking at ALL the areas you will be welding on. JR

I thought I posted a write up here when I shaved my drip rails and was gonna put the link up for you but I cant find the post?

So here is what I posted on another car forum. Might help you with the process. JR

Ok, I have a 62 Nova and trimmed the drip rails off. Im not in paint yet, but I can say it looks much better. The drip rails on the 62 were just way too high and looked out of place.


Simplified process. And it really is a simple process.

Stainless trim removed (for resale) then I pulled the rail down with channel locks to get access to the sealer (to remove) and the edge of the roof and the door frame top.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/bent-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/bent3-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/bent2-1.jpg


Then I taped a line for my cut for the plasma cutter. I had the plasma torch and MIG torch draped over my shoulder. I would cut 3-4 inches then grab the MIG torch and weld a hot spot weld to keep the roof from peeling up. I went down the rail, cutting and welding till it was all cut off. Very fast process. Maybe five minutes for each side.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/tack2-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/tack1-1.jpg

When the rail was removed I stitch welded the roof into the door frame with a bunch of "spot welds" using the MIG. I split the difference between each spot weld. Keeping it cool all along the way. Basically making nice hot spots of welded metal. Start at the front and split the diff all the way to the back and start over at the front. Till I was laying welds on top of other older welds. It was solidly welded at that point.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/tacked-1.jpg

After all the spot welding I sanded it smooth with an air sander and 80 grit abrasive. Hot spot welds are a must if you want to keep the details of the roof to door frame . It still has some small details that you dont want to remove when doing the sanding. If the welds are too cold and high you will accidentally sand into the detail transition. You dont want that. Using high heat for just a half a second when doing the stitch welding will keep the sanding process at a minimum. The spot weld will be lower and really, more secure.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/ground-1.jpg

Some primer on the rails to protect.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/01/epoxydriversfront2-1.jpg

[zooboy]

Might I ask "riderz" what did you do with the removable panel on the A piller that had the drip rail attatched to it. What modifications were done to the A piller after it's removal or did you weld the panel in after removing the drip rail?

[BonzoHansen]

my 77Z has no drip rails. the only issue I had was once getting caught in a summer t-storm on a hot, humid day. I have no Ac yet. Could not crack the windows or the rain came in. It got hot in the car lol otherwise no issues

[barryp]

I did mine and love the look....Haven't been caught in the rain yet so we will see. I did a slight modification to mine after removing the drip rail I went back and welded the two panels together then went back and welded in 1/4' round stock along the inside to close the gap back up....


Nice!! I'm in the middle of doing this exact thing.

[Riderz Cycle]

Might I ask "riderz" what did you do with the removable panel on the A piller that had the drip rail attatched to it. What modifications were done to the A piller after it's removal or did you weld the panel in after removing the drip rail?

I just removed the panel that attached with screws and came back with the 1/4" round stock and followed the contour of the "A" pillar. You'll have to do some bending and forming but it looks good....I have some photos if you need them

[Simmo]

Thanks JRouche for the write up.

I'm real keen to get rid of the rails on the Elco, it does rain a bit here though so I'm torn lol.

Least I have an idea what I'm doing now!

[zooboy]

I would love to see the pictures, I am tucking my bumpers right now but the drip rails are next on my list.

[mikes2nd]

the only time you might have a problem is with the windows down in a heavy rain...

thats it...

an episode of muscle car just did this. The GM's many times have a "ridge" built in, and alot of people just leave that and build it up on the front. I am about to do this and flush mount the windows(a bigger task)...

[jlcustomz]

JRouche, guess we have the same line of thinking on this. While different vehicles may require a little different methods to shave, the cut & weld a lil at a time is just common sense(possibly based on the mistakes of others).If my 83' el camaro wasn't already decently painted & assembled, I,d have done a lot more custom metalwork by now. I,ve been getting spiderweb patterns of rust running up from my driprails last few years, I may have to completely r&r a few sections of metal at the roofrail if rust is internal. One day it will happen, A few inches at time.