How much heat can stock 2nd gen F-body 11" rotors take?

[Henesian]

Just wondering how much heat stock 2nd gen F-body 11" rotors can take without worrying about rotor longevity, and how high performance of a pad you can run on stock rotors with enough margin to heat them to their max, but still keep the rotors alive.
I suspect a 100F-1000F pad is the limit.

[SLO_Z28]

1000 is cooking! Just match the pad compound to the application and you'll be fine on anything but late braking on long/hot track days. Ive never cooked my front brakes ever but I have a race compound pad.

[Henesian]

I just wanna know cold hard facts, man. What pads are you running?

[John Wright]

1000°F.... I expect that you'll start to see some color in the rotors at that temp.

[Henesian]

Well, I'm looking at Hawk DTC-30s, which are 80 bucks, and PFC 81s, which are 65 bucks, because I want pads that aren't going to fade under performance where I'm slowing down from 100-60, or 80-30, only have a few car lengths to do it, and nonstop corner after corner after corner without any time to cool down. But still reasonably streetable. It's not so much hauling the car down from 125 for me, it's hitting the brakes every couple seconds and slowing down 30-70 mph at a time for 40 miles in 35 minutes with no break and no opportunity for the pads and rotors to cool. That's the challenge.
I don't really care about dust or noise, I can deal with noise. Already running pads where if you hit the brakes lightly, they squeal, but when you give them the slightest more pressure they stop squealing.

[SLO_Z28]

What is your cars total weight and intended use. I can get as technical as you want about this subject, and get into ISO manufacturing, DOT certifications, and materials science, if you want to.

Theres a number of reasons im a firm believer in PFC carbon metallic, heres a nice basic read about material differences:
http://www.performancefriction.com/R...s_20101002.pdf

To answer your question, ive never overheated my "stock" brakes with drilled and slotted rotors(very high quality/no longer available) and the Z rated PFC Carbon Metallic pads that were formulated for the California Highway Patrols' Caprices (They fit in the stock calipers). I typically only autocross, but ive run on the track, and my rear drums fade LONG before my fronts even get toasty. I change my fluid often and use the Ford Motorcraft fluid which is a little better than most race fluids, this matters, a lot!

[Henesian]

I'm already running Motul RBF600, which is a 593 degree dry boiling point.

[SLO_Z28]

That stuff is EXTREMELY hygroscopic. It works great, but I wouldn't use it for more than 30 days at a time. You want a DOT 3 or DOT 5.1. You can get the Borate Ester Silicone based fluids that hove a low hygroscopicity, but they are compressible. The best fluid by a long shot is the Castrol SRF, but MOST glycol ether based fluids will perform well in street applications if properly maintained. I like the Motorcraft fluid PMC-01 because it performs as good as any "race" fluid sold, but is only $5 a bottle and available at any ford dealer, and it surpasses DOT5 standards.

Another tip : If youve ridden your brakes to the point that the fluid boils and your pedal fails you need to replace the fluid, there is no exceptoin to this rule.


Like I said, get me a car weight and intended use and I can point you to a pad. For a street pad in the GM D52 Caliper its hard to beat the 0614-020 PFC pad.

I can get as technical or as basic as you want with this subject :D