1967 Lemans Project - LS376/480 & 4L80E Build

[Pontiacken]

Hello my name is Ken and this is only the second forum I have joined so please bear with me as I figure the functions to this one out.

I have a 1967 LeMans that I obtained through the family in 1992. It has not seen a day of duty since. Yes, that is almost 20 years ago. It has been an on again off again project for many different reasons over the years. However for the past 9 months or so God has seen fit for me to be able get serious about this thing. I have been more than pleased to get busy!

So here are some pics and descriptions of my near 20 year project:

This is my oldest son at age 2 when the LeMans made it to my house
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/LeMans09-1.jpg

This is him at his wedding last December. He is now 20.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/LeMans10-1.jpg

This is the Lemans as it was in 2005. Mostly rust fighting and interior removal at that point
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/LeMans01-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/LeMans03-1.jpg

Dog house off
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/LeMans02-1.jpg

OL trusty 326 and 2 speed tranny out
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/LeMans04-1.jpg

Body comming off the chassis
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/LeMans05-1.jpg

Body as it sits now awaiting its turn for some work
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/LeMans06-1.jpg

Chassis after seperation from body
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/LeMans07-1.jpg

Frame stripped of all parts
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/IMG_1253-1.jpg

Lots of welding and grinding to strengthen frame:

Frame rails boxed in
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/IMG_1260-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/IMG_1265-1.jpg

Gussets welded in
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/Verizon014-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/Verizon018-1.jpg

Transmission crossmember cut to length and rewelded
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/Suspension001-1.jpg

Preperations and measurments being made for clearencing spring pockets for RideTech suspension parts
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/Suspension012-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/Suspension008-1.jpg

That is where the frame is at this point. The heat here in the DFW area of Texas has been brutal the past few weeks so not much work has been done.

I have had the 12 bolt rebuilt. New axles, tightened up posi and dress up is all it needed.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/Suspension016-1.jpg

Bought the modified 4L80E
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/Suspension017-1.jpg

And the LS376/480.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/IMG_2791-1.jpg

Will post pics when I get some more of the parts in.

I have been scouring the forums and been very impressed by some of you with your technical savy, craftsmenship, good ol American Ingenuity and most of all your willingness to share. So please feel free to ask any questions as I am bound to ask alot of them myself.

Thanks to CFster for his help so far!

[Motown 454]

Looks like a nice project. Very nice drive train.

[CFster]

Fantastic Ken! I'll be watching you build for sure. Nice combination!

-Colin

[therobski]

Hey brother therobski here, I'm new to the site too and building a 64 F-85 post car. I live over on the lake in Rowlett. We need to meet.

[therobski]

FYI I boxed my frame too, had it sand blasted and powder coated, got it home and discovered that in order to get the transmission cross member back in I had to cut a lot of my boxing out on one side to get the cross member back in....

[Pontiacken]

FYI I boxed my frame too, had it sand blasted and powder coated, got it home and discovered that in order to get the transmission cross member back in I had to cut a lot of my boxing out on one side to get the cross member back in....

therobski I am doing the same as far as the sandblasting and powder coating goes. The way I am tackling this problem is welding shelves onto the boxed area of the frame to secure the crossmember. That is why I cut the ends of my crossmember then removed about 1" or so on both sides then welded the ends back on. See the 5th picture up from here in my original post. I feel for you having to cut up all that work and powder coat. Have you started a thread? Would love to see your project and meet you as well.

[Pontiacken]

Picked up the engine the other day and some other parts have come in as well:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/IMG_2782-1.jpg

Engine stands
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/IMG_2784-1.jpg

Adapter brackets and mounts
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/IMG_2785-1.jpg

Flexplate
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/IMG_2789-1.jpg

Oil pan
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/IMG_2787-1.jpg

Engine
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/IMG_2791-1.jpg

I have enough parts in I need to get back to work. Will finish up with the spring pockets on the frame then mock up the engine and tranny so I can place and weld in the crossmember "shelves". Once that is done then the frame will go out for sandblasting and powder coating.

[Pontiacken]

Started mocking up the engine and transmission today and ran into a problem with clearance between the oil pan and engine cradle. See pictures below.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/IMG_2813-1.jpg

The pan just buries into the back of the cradle:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/IMG_2815-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/IMG_2816-1.jpg

I have a full inch of clearance between the front of the oil pan and the cradle:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/IMG_2819-1.jpg

After making several measurements the engine appears to be forward about 5/8" from original
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/IMG_2818-1.jpg

So I quess my questions are:
1. How much clearance is enough between the oil pan and the back of the engine cradle. 5/8" to 3/4" enough?

2. What is the minimum clearance allowable between the front part of the oil pan and the top of the engine cradle?

I would like some feed back on this because if I am going to have to move the engine stands I would like to do it once and account for both front to back and up and down.

Any pictures of your clearances from your LS3 to 66-67 A bodies would be great as well.

Thanks again-Ken

[CFster]

Huh. I have plenty of room. Hard to tell in this pic, but enough to run that big starter cable in front of the pan...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

What kind of adapter plates and mounts are you using? These are mine -->

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

You've got your brackets bolted on the right way?

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[CFster]

You also have to allow clearance for your tie-rod travel.

Mine will still hit at full lock, especially since I put the AFX spindles on it. They allow more lock.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[Pontiacken]

Colin,

I used the AutoKraft mounts because apparently Edelbrock quite selling those adapters plates by themselves. I checked everywhere. I could only get them by buying the whole conversion kit. There were different things about the kit I did not like such as the headers and the fact that the kit was based on a '64 Chevelle. Not sure the frame was close enough to the '66-'67.

Here is a pic of the AutoKraft adapter/mounts I have. I did put them on opposite sides from what AutoKraft has marked on them because it would have moved the engine 2 more inches forward from where it is now. They are beautifull just not quite right.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/IMG_2785-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/IMG_2812-1.jpg

Thank you for the pics they will help a bunch!
Ken

[jgpclone]

sweet ride its going to b one bad ass lemans when ur done with it

[Code Red]

good luck with the build man

[StyleIn68]

I'd shoot for 1/2" min between the cross member and the pan. How is your firewall clearance going to be with the engine where it is now?

[Pontiacken]

I'd shoot for 1/2" min between the cross member and the pan. How is your firewall clearance going to be with the engine where it is now?

StyleIn68-

I think I will be able to get about 1" by moving my stands back as far as I can. Firewall clearance should not be an issue from what I have been reading and measuring.

Thanks-Ken

[armourmark]

Otherwise, get some 1" setback plates. Try carshop.com
Love the Build!

[Pontiacken]

Well I decided that moving the engine stands back would be the easiest and least expensive thing to do. So here are the results.

This is what I started with:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/IMG_2823-1.jpg

New holes drilled:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/IMG_2824-1.jpg

I tapped them for ease of install:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/IMG_2826-1.jpg

Engine stand reinstalled:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/IMG_2825-1.jpg

Engine and transmission reinstalled:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/IMG_2838-1.jpg

Oil pan clearance much improved:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/IMG_2832-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/IMG_2833-1.jpg

Measurments make me believe I will have close to 5" to the firewall. All looking good I welded in the transmission crossmember brackets to the frame rails.

Measuments made and lines scribed:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/IMG_2837-1.jpg

Marked areas prepaired and brackets welded in:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/IMG_2835-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/IMG_2840-1.jpg

Finished product:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/IMG_2842-1.jpg

The next post should be of the frame back from the powder coater and I can start putting the suspension on. YEA!!!!

[LeighP]

Nice work.

[Pontiacken]

Nice work.

Thank you Leigh. I just checked out your thread so right back at you with the "Nice Work". I loved my '71 Esprit. It had a 400 with a Turbo 400 trans. What I would give to have it back again!

[wmhjr]

Just a caution - I would make sure to measure carefully about how much you're setting the engine back. The external dimensions of the LX compared to a Pontiac Standard Block are different, however if you look at the frong upper shock perch hole, in a Pontiac motor that hole is slightly behind the center of the engine on my car with solid motor mounts in stock locations. That means my engine center is slightly FORWARD of the holes where the shock shafts come up through the perch. In order to safely remove my engine I not only need to remove tranny and scattershield, but I really also need to remove clutch, pressure plate and flywheel. If the LX is that much shorter (front to rear) then you're probably OK, but I know if I moved my motor back even a 1/4", I probably wouldn't be able to get the scattershield bolts off and there is no way the motor would come out.

[Pontiacken]

Borrowed a trailer from my good friend Shane, a mighty man of God, and loaded the frame into it last night for delivery to the sand blaster this morning.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/IMG_2846-1.jpg

Back Saver: 2 grown but young sons come in very handy here. I didn't do much else other than help guide them. Easiest part of this build so far. Thank you boys!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/IMG_2845-1.jpg

I should be able to pick this up again early next week and get it to the powder coater then back home for some assembly.

[tmadden]

Hey neighbor. Great project. Keep the pics coming.

[Pontiacken]

Hey neighbor. Great project. Keep the pics coming.

Hey back at you. What's with the Alabama jacket in your pics? Most people here in the Republic of Texas may take offense. How is your Camero comming along? Ken

[CFster]

Nice job Ken! Moving right along. Can't wait to see the frame back.

[Pontiacken]

Picked up the frame from the powder coater this afternoon. Now if you have ever wondered if powder coating is better than regular chassis paint-well in my case it was. I took it in on Friday morning to the sandblaster picked it up Friday afternoon and delivered it to the powder coater and had a 2 stage job done and it was ready Tuesday. Pretty quick and look at the difference.

Before
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/IMG_2847-1.jpg

After
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/IMG_2855-1.jpg

I got so excited I had to do some work on the absolute cleanest chassis I have ever worked on so I put the upper and lower control arms on and put the rear end back under it tonight
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/IMG_2859-1.jpg

All went smooth except for the driver side upper control arm. I had to clearance the inside lower part of the mounting bracket. It interfered with the differential housing and would not line up to get the bolt through. So Mr. Grinder had to be used.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/IMG_2860-1.jpg

Here is where the chassis is now.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/IMG_2868-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/IMG_2867-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/IMG_2866-1.jpg

I hope to get back on it Thursday night!

[Pontiacken]

......and I was able to finish up the rear suspension.

Passenger side Shockwave bracket installed:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/IMG_2869-1.jpg

Driver side bracket with Shockwave installed:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/IMG_2890-1.jpg

I pressurized the Shockwaves to check for travel and any conficts.

Driver side:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/IMG_2891-1.jpg

Passanger side-Looks like I have a conflict here with a brakeline clamp. Good to see this now that way when I install the disk brakes I will know to run my lines on top of the axle tubes:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/IMG_2894-1.jpg

Rear Muscle Bar installed:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/IMG_2895-1.jpg

Front view of project as it sits now.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/IMG_2896-1.jpg

Will start on the front suspension this weekend!:twothumbs

[darren@ridetech]

Looking good Ken!

[BulldawgMusclecars]

Very nice! Keep up the good work!

[Motown 454]

That sure looks pretty. They did a very nice job on it, and you made some nice progress.

[DroptopJ]

Looking good!

[LeighP]

Very nice...I went with powdercoat on my subframe and various other front parts like the inner fenders etc....great finish, and it really looks nice.

[Pontiacken]

The weekend ended up being very busy with Mission House and Church related obligations so I did not get to much done this weekend.

I did get the rear Shockwaves air ports and cable ends lined up and the cables connected:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/frontsusp002-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/frontsusp001-1.jpg


I began working to figure out how big a hole I would need for the front Shockwave ride hight sensor cable to feed out of the spring pocket into the frame rail. The existing hole in the top outside answered the question-7/16. Now to come up with a way to drill that size a hole in the back of the spring pocket:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/frontsusp003-1.jpg

Next I was, and still am, concerned about the pig tail for the ride hight sensors comming out of the top of all four Shockwaves. These wires only appear to be 20-22 AWG and they come out though a brass nut. I want to provide a stress relief so those small wires can stay suspended and not be loaded down by these heavy connectors.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/frontsusp009-1.jpg

While doing this I noticed one of the 3 wires had come out of the weather pack connector.:eek: Funny, that's not the end of the pig tail I was concerned about! So, I am working with Darren at RideTech for a resolution.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/frontsusp005-1.jpg

Thanks for all the kind comments and encouragement.:) Please keep coming back.
Ken

[acegto]

Nice work on the chassis so far. Starting clean helps you finish clean. Thats what i tell myself to justify my OCD!!!

[Pontiacken]

And I mean a little more. The front is taking alot more time than I thought it would even with all of the preperation work that I did before sending the frame out.

First on the list was to repair the connector on the Shockwave. Once I found a youtube video to see how the pins worked in this connector then it was no problem. Mini pick, soldering iron and a pair of needle nose pliers and I was back in business.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/frontsusp005-1.jpg

Sorry I forgot to take a picture of the finished connector by itself :hand:

Second was to figure out the stress relief for the other end of this same pigtail comming out of the Shockwave.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/frontsusp009-1.jpg

After playing around with different ideas for a little while longer I found that I could use a zip tie to attach the cable to the air port and that would keep the end of the cable suspended and put the connector right in line with were it was to exit the spring pocket.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/frontsuspsion012-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/frontsuspsion009-1.jpg

Here is a pic of both the air line and the ride height cable exiting the spring pocket.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/frontsuspsion015-1.jpg

Shockwave now installed and inflated. This is where I finished last night.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/frontsuspsion018-1.jpg

More later this week!!

[marolf101x]

As the top of the Shockwave stays with the vehicle body (does not move up and down with suspension) you don't need much strain relief on the wires.
I typically use an aluminum "Adel" clamp at the connector to hold it to the chassis or body. This ensures the wires cannot move, thereby mitigating the need for strain relief.

That all said, what you have done looks good! No reason not to have a little extra insurance.

[Pontiacken]

As the top of the Shockwave stays with the vehicle body (does not move up and down with suspension) you don't need much strain relief on the wires.
I typically use an aluminum "Adel" clamp at the connector to hold it to the chassis or body. This ensures the wires cannot move, thereby mitigating the need for strain relief.

That all said, what you have done looks good! No reason not to have a little extra insurance.

Extra insurance is correct Britt! Not having done this before and not wanting to "re-do" it is why I choose to try and add some relief to that paticular part of the cable especially due to the small size of the wires. Thanks for the comment and please keep watching and reading. Any pointers are always wanted and welcomed! Ken

[Pontiacken]

...last night so these pics are not the best.

First, I had to figure out how and where to run the shock valving control cable from the top of the shock and eventually to the inside of the body and under the dash. I wanted to keep it out of the way of brake lines, transmission cooling lines, hot headers, etc. I ended up drilling and tapping a hole for an Adel clamp to route the cable back into the spring pocket and exit with the height control cable. It rus with a big enough loop to not be in the way when it comes time to do a front end alignment. Once that was figured out and done then I installed the upper ball joints and the tall spindles. Then came the very unforgiving but AWSOME looking front Muscle Bar installation.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/IMG2011092800024-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/IMG2011092800022-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/IMG2011092800026-1.jpg

So here is where it sits now.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/09/IMG2011092800021-1.jpg

I have not found any after market steering arms any better than the originals so I will have them blasted and powdercoated before installation. Will be ordering a KORE 3 Brake Kit to install in the front and back along with a new steering box and some other steering linkage parts I have decided to replace.

[darren@ridetech]

Ken, What was "unforgiving" about the front sway bar install? Anything we could do better?

[Pontiacken]

Darren-unforgiving is not all bad. It should do it's job very well. I did have some alignment issues that I will call you about. But overall, it looks Awsome and I am expecting it to perform very well. Ken

[Pontiacken]

I will be obligated the next 2 nights so I wanted to get some work done - stayed up to 2am. Boy today is going to last forever. Anyway I mocked up the AirPod and routed all the cables and airlines from the Shockwaves.

Here is almost exactly where the AirPod will sit on the trunk "shelf" area in relation to the frame so I put a couple a boards under it for stability and got after it.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/183-1.jpg

After connecting every wire, cable and airline I connected the system to a battery and let the tank fill. Once it filled up to 150 psi I aired up each Shockwave. I let them sit for awhile to see if I had any bad leaks. Only leak was at the primary compressor on the AirPod at the outlet. A quick trim on the line and reseating it into the connector took care of the problem.

Next, I started routing all the Shockwave cables and airlines to clean things up a bit and get them closer to where they will be in (hopefully) their final location.

I have this thing about not wanting to drill holes if I do not have to. I am always looking at what the factory has already provided and work with that as much as possible. So on the rear I ran the cables and airlines though the holes at the top of the spring pockets using a grommet
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/185-1.jpg

Added a little stress relief and guide to the height control cable with a zip tie. The shock valving control cable dressed and aligned itself nicely without any outside influence other than the snugness of the grommet.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/186-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/187-1.jpg

When the cables and lines come out on the other side they will enter the trunk area directly above and as this pic shows they should enter right next to each side of the Air Pod. This should be an easy route and dress once the body is back on the frame.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/189-1.jpg

Next came the airlines and cables from the front Shockwaves. I ended up putting a wire loom over each set of airline/cable and ran them through the frame rails to an existing ovalish hole in the rail just before the rear crossmember. I left the shock valving control cable exiting the frame in the front as these cables plug into a box that will be under the dash. I will run the rear ones through the body to the front.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/195-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/197-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/196-1.jpg

Believe it or not that and a few little clean up jobs took 5 hours to complete. Here is where it sits now.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/198-1.jpg

There is not much else I can do with the AirRide until I get some wheels on the front. Hope to have my brakes ordered by next week. Until then I will continue planning out the fuel and brake lines as well as giving more thought to the interior. - Ken

[craigs73]

cool build you got going the frame looks great

[CruizinKev]

x2 looks great!! :twothumbs

[Pontiacken]

cool build you got going the frame looks great

Thanks Craig!

[Pontiacken]

x2 looks great!! :twothumbs

Thanks Kevin. I checked out your Home Page and when I get a chance I will look into your site some more. Ken

[acegto]

What wheels are you going with?

[willj313]

frame looks good

[CruizinKev]

Thanks Kevin. I checked out your Home Page and when I get a chance I will look into your site some more. KenThanks Ken :twothumbs :cheers:

[Pontiacken]

What wheels are you going with?
Asa I was thinking of a web style. Something like this:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/NightTrain_1s_medium-1.jpg

What do you think? Ken

[acegto]

Nice, They'll lokk good on that car with those big hips.

[Pontiacken]

I was attacked by a bad bug:sick: of some kind and basicly lost almost all of October for doing much of anything productive at home or work. But I am finally back at doing at least a little.

New 12:1 steering box from AGR mounted as well as the linkage. I had a set of Baer Tracker tie rod ends (bump steer reduction) and regular style tie rod ends. Air Ride says there spindles help reduce bump steer so I quess that the amount of usefullness from the Baer Trackers will be minimized. So I have a question for you out there in automotive enthusiast land - Strickly on the aesthetic side which do you like better?

Baer Tracker tie rod end
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/IMG2011110300095-1.jpg

Regular tie rod end
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/IMG2011110300094-1.jpg

One on each side for comparison
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/IMG2011110300096-1.jpg

Kore 3 brakes starting to go on as well. Man they are alot bigger than the '67 factory ones
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/IMG2011102600093-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/IMG2011102600073-1.jpg

Almost to the point of mounting the engine and transmission again. Once that is done the body will have to be set again so I can figure out how much pounding needs to be done to the trans tunnel. I will also be able to make up the complete brake and fuel lines as well. Will post more as I go along.

[Pontiacken]

No replies on the tie rod ends and I am so far behind now I am moving on.
I choose the regular style tie rod ends with the billet adjusters from ridetech.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/207-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/208-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/209-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/210-1.jpg

A few little items left and then it will be time for the motor and trans to be reinstalled for final placement. The the job of putting the body back on for trans tunnel modification.

Back to work!

[therobski]

Hey bro it's been a while since we got thru that brutal summer, now we need at least 4-5 feet of rain. The tie ends you chose I think will work well. I don't know if you have looked at my thread " 64 F85 post car" I went the B-body spindle and disk brake up grade, quite involved and I used Professional grade G-body tie rode end I got from NAPA. Question:did you weld your transmission cross member to the frame? Your project is really moving along, looks great and I'm taking notes!

[scottymonte]

Nice build, i really like the wheel choice.
what did you think of the KORE3 fitment. Hope to order my kit with in the next 2 weeks.

[Pontiacken]

Hey bro it's been a while since we got thru that brutal summer, now we need at least 4-5 feet of rain. The tie ends you chose I think will work well. I don't know if you have looked at my thread " 64 F85 post car" I went the B-body spindle and disk brake up grade, quite involved and I used Professional grade G-body tie rode end I got from NAPA. Question:did you weld your transmission cross member to the frame? Your project is really moving along, looks great and I'm taking notes!

Therobski - Rain would be great!!!! I used the spindles from Ridetech to ensure that my whole suspension package was going to work well together and if it didn't for some reason I would only have one phone call to make. Darrin at Ridetech has been fabulous with help and technical support. I did use Proffessional Grade Raybestos tie rods from Rock Auto and they seem to be a very quality product.
As far as my transmission crossmember goes what I did was a trick that Kevin at V8TV turned me onto and that was to cut the ends of the member off and remove (in my case) remove about 1" from both sides then reweld the ends back on:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/Suspension001-1.jpg

Then once I put the engine and transmission on the chassis and made the needed mods to get the engine & trans angle correct I welded in perches for the member to set on:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/IMG_2841-1.jpg

This is what it looks like with the member setting in:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/IMG_2843-1.jpg

The plan is to put the engine and trans back in this weekend if time permits and I can make a final decision on how to fasten the member to the perches. I will direct bolt it or use the OEM rubber end caps and clamps. I will just have to wait and see how much room I end up with and the final agle with and with out the rubber ends installed. If you can zoom in on this pic you can see the crossmember setting on the perches with the rubber end caps on:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/198-1.jpg

Thanks for looking and we still will need to find the time to meet up! Ken

[Pontiacken]

Nice build, i really like the wheel choice.
what did you think of the KORE3 fitment. Hope to order my kit with in the next 2 weeks.

Scotty -The only problem I ran into with out of the box fitment with the Kore 3 package was due to my using the aftermarket spindles. I had to shim the calaper bracket to get the rotor centered. Found the washer shims needed at Tractor Supply Co. Tobin at Kore 3 has been a great help with this part of my project. You will not be disappointed!

[therobski]

That looks really good never thought about that approach. This is what I ended up doing for my cross member for the future 200R4. Hope my set up works. Did you bolt or weld the cross member to your perches?
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/IMG_1047-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/IMG_1048-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/IMG_1055-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/IMG_1096-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/IMG_1084-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/IMG_1082-1.jpg

[Pontiacken]

I will bolt it one way or another. Ken

[therobski]

I like the way you got yours set up maybe more sturdy than mine. I am a little concerned about my set up creating a vibration on the road.

[CruizinKev]

nice progress!! :twothumbs

[Pontiacken]

I like the way you got yours set up maybe more sturdy than mine. I am a little concerned about my set up creating a vibration on the road.

That was/is a concerne af mine as well. V8TV when doing this modification bolt the member straight to the perches with no cushion/insulator as well as other that have made similar modes like this. So, I am guessing yours will be OK as well. Ken

[therobski]

I have decided to take my croosmember brackets out and try and fab some new ones and weld them in like yours. I have some 1/8 inch plate laying around from boxing the frame. Is that good enough or thicker gauge. I'm off for 10 day during Thanksgiving I will keep you posted.

[Pontiacken]

I have decided to take my croosmember brackets out and try and fab some new ones and weld them in like yours. I have some 1/8 inch plate laying around from boxing the frame. Is that good enough or thicker gauge. I'm off for 10 day during Thanksgiving I will keep you posted.

therobki-1/8" should be more than adequate.

[Pontiacken]

The weekend was very busy-Just not for the LeMans. With the help of my oldest son and my new "Bubbafied" Pastor we did get the motor and trans put in place:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/IMG_2983-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/IMG_2984-1.jpg

I sure am glad that I spent the time to loom the suspension wiring and air lines then run them thru the chassis rails. It sure is going to clean things up with only having to have a single brake line running exposed down the chassis on one side and a single fuel line down the other.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/IMG_2988-1.jpg


I did not have the time to finalize how I will secure the trans xmember to the perches yet.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/IMG_2987-1.jpg
Time is already getting to be a premium and I am sure that will continue until the New Year.

[CruizinKev]

oh saweet!!! it looks great!! :twothumbs

[CFster]

Fantastic Ken! Almost looks too good to cover up with a body!

[Pontiacken]

Fantastic Ken! Almost looks too good to cover up with a body!

Yea, I hope the body comes out well enough to do the chassis justice. Ken

[Pontiacken]

Holidays are past and a couple of days of nice weather and with the help of good friends and low and behold some work got done!

Finished removing the remaining dash, sterring column, accelerator & brake pedals, ac/heat system, doors, all wiring and glass with the exception of the rear windshield.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/IMG_3145-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/IMG_3147-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/IMG_3146-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/IMG_3150-1.jpg

Removal of the rear windshield and then it will be time to put the body shell back on the chassis for transmission tunnel modifications.

[therobski]

Very Very nice I'm taking notes Brother!!

[Pontiacken]

A bit cooler today but 600 watts of light will keep you warm!

Removed the trunk lid for the last time
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/IMG_3202-1.jpg

Then finally dropped the gas tank
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/IMG_3203-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/IMG_3204-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/IMG_3205-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/IMG_3206-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/IMG_3208-1.jpg

Just have the rear windshield and radio antenna and back on the frame the shell goes.

[Capown]

Any idea how much you will have to remove from Trans. Tunnel??

[Pontiacken]

Any idea how much you will have to remove from Trans. Tunnel??

Capown-For every other forum project that I've seen do this same trans swap they have been able to beat out the trans tunnel enough without having to cut away any part of it. So, we shall see how it goes! Ken

[Capown]

Sweet I've read a few builds maybe I just over looked it. Thanks for the fast reply, hope to see this beast going, and wish I lived closer to see this, 7-8hr drive not so fun..

[Capown]

Also what headers and adapter/mounts are you using? I seen where you were talking about them on page one just didn't see names...

Thanks

[Pontiacken]

Sweet I've read a few builds maybe I just over looked it. Thanks for the fast reply, hope to see this beast going, and wish I lived closer to see this, 7-8hr drive not so fun..

Capown here is a link to a build using the 4L80E in a '67 Chevelle. John did a great job!-Ken
http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/683005-ls2-4l80e-chevelle-updated-pics-2.html

[Pontiacken]

Also what headers and adapter/mounts are you using? I seen where you were talking about them on page one just didn't see names...

Thanks

Headers I am still undecided. Mounts are from AutoKraft. Same place I got the oil pan. If you read far enough down you will see the adjustment I had to make with the engine stands. I also had to put the mounts on the opposite sides as to what AutoKraft had them labeled. One word of warning when moving the stands back - getting the lock washers and nuts on the back lower bolts took a lot of time, patience and flexability with the fingers as well as some extra lithium grease so they would stay on the end of my finger when installing. Not easy but worth it when your done. Get a skinny open end wrench too! Ken

[Capown]

Thanks Ken for the helpful info I reread the first 3 pages again, and as soon as I read where you got the mounts I was like DOH!!(Homer Simpson voice) I just had a brain fart. I knew I read, that just over looked it when I went thru it today. I need to write this stuff down lol!!

[Pontiacken]

Thanks Ken for the helpful info I reread the first 3 pages again, and as soon as I read where you got the mounts I was like DOH!!(Homer Simpson voice) I just had a brain fart. I knew I read, that just over looked it when I went thru it today. I need to write this stuff down lol!!

No problem. You have some pics of your car or a thread somewhere?-Ken

[Pontiacken]

I was able to remove the rear windshield, power antenna, windshield washer hoses and outlets, door seel plates and the like last night. I still have to find someone who will loan me there engine hoist and I'll be able to put the body shell back on the frame. Once I have made the modifications for the transmission then hopefully off to the body shop it goes.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/IMG2012012300210-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/IMG2012012300211-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/IMG2012012100205-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/IMG2012012100208-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/IMG2012012300221-1.jpg

[Capown]

No problem. You have some pics of your car or a thread somewhere?-Ken


I haven't updated in awhile, car is at the body shop should be another week.
https://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.php?81876-Budget-67-LeMans-Progress&highlight=

[Pontiacken]

Inspected the floor pans and gave them the screwdriver and awl puncture test with the following results:

Driver side front-not to bad
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/IMG_3216-1.jpg

Driver side rear-not to bad either
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/IMG_3217-1.jpg

Passanger side front-as expected with the heater core on that side it is bad.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/IMG_3218-1.jpg

Fortunatly there is no damage in the passanger rear floor pan. YEAH!!!:jump:

Front winshield channel-top is bad
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/IMG_3220-1.jpg

Rear winshield channel-the filler plate between windshield and trunk had been replaced before and there is alot of bono in here. I have a new filler panel to replace this one due to the last repair is not very good.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/IMG_3221-1.jpg

Started planning out the interior mods.

Dash cluster planning
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/IMG_3215-1.jpg

Also I purchased some seats from a '06 GTO to update the interior:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/Seats-1.jpg

OK I got to get back to work. Will update more later.

[Pontiacken]

I think I am getting close to the layout for the gauge selection and layout in the dash. I'm looking at Autometer Cobalt gauges. Tach, speedo, water temp, oil pressure, volt, fuel and trans temp. New round a/c vents, push to start button and Ridetech E3 controller and Select Series shock mode button are in place as well. Still looking for the best way to do signal, highbeam and CEL lights. I would like to use LEDs for these if possible but I do not want just round lights on the dash. I would still like to have arrows for signals an engine symbol for the CEL and so on. Also, I am looking for a differnt style headlight switch and dimmer control. All of this to keep in the "old body with modern technology" idea. Any comments or recommendations are very welcomed. - Ken
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/IMG_3226-1.jpg

[Capown]

I'm diggin it!! I was thinking of doing a custom dash as well kinda like the Florida 5.0 cluster I always wanted in my 91 5.0 coupe.
I like the gauges close together.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[Capown]

Just an idea of the gauge layout, I'm not sure of vents or A/C haven't thought that far...

[Pontiacken]

Capown I like the Florida 5.0 layout myself. It is very symmetrical with gauges on both sides of the speedo and tach. Not sure I can pull that off as well with the cluster so one sided in the LeMans. I will have to give it some more thought. Thank you very much! Ken

[TEMP GTO]

Hi Guys,
I just went throught the 5 pages of posts. Ken the frame you put together is kick ass! I just bought a 65 tempest from CA that I am in the middle of taking apart to do something very similar to you 67. I hope to get started on the frame and everything this spring. Attached is a pick of my 65 back in October when I got it. My car is just about ready to come off the frame so I can get started. I will keep track of your post and progress of your 67.

Mark55630

[Pontiacken]

Mark, looks like you have a good car to start with. I am not sure about the Tempest but I loved the arrow head that is embossed into the seats of the 65 GTOs. I know this is a weird question but looking at the picture above what did you use to fill in the voids between your driveway and start of your garage foundation? Thanks and all the best with your project. Not sure if I could help but if you have questions along the way please ask. Have you started a thread yet? Ken

[TEMP GTO]

Hi Ken, Thanks. Yes it is not bad. I hope I can do it some justice. As for the cracks it is self leveling cement. They come in tubes like caulk. It is pretty easy just clean out the crack, fill it in and let it dry. You should be able to find this at your local hardware or homedepot.

Mark
55788

[TEMP GTO]

Hi Ken, I just started a thread of my own. It is Project; Temp Goat 1965 Pontiac Tempest. I figured it would pretty cool to kind of have a log of my project. Take care.

Mark

[Capown]

OOoooh Ken check these out!! For the price and ease I think I'm going this route...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/l_67_gto_black_sport_comp-1.jpg
http://www.ebay.com/itm/350525936603?_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649&item=350525936603&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT&vxp=mtr

[Capown]

any updates??

[therobski]

Pontiacken, Robski here from Rowlett-been a while. My 64 post car chassis is about done have not posted any updates in a while. waiting for the body shop to get paint on the body!!!. I would like to bring out some COLD Miller's soon and meet you especially since we are almost neighbors. I would like see the awesome job on your build.TempGTO your base Tempest "post car" looks to be in great condition to start with. A lot of us were not that fortunate to start with a good car, or in my case I was stupid to start with a car that needed floors, trunk all the braces, located 2 new doors and a left front fender. There is not many 64-65 F-85 "post cars" around so I bought this one.But I have learned alot, "it's a money pit" but I like the progress over the last 3 years.Pontiacken give me a call sometime 214-912-6336 Robert.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/IMG_1293-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/IMG_1247-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/IMG_10703-1.jpg

[Pontiacken]

Hi Ken, Thanks. Yes it is not bad. I hope I can do it some justice. As for the cracks it is self leveling cement. They come in tubes like caulk. It is pretty easy just clean out the crack, fill it in and let it dry. You should be able to find this at your local hardware or homedepot.

Mark
55788

Thanks Mark. I will check it out next time i am at Home Depot. Ken

[Pontiacken]

OOoooh Ken check these out!! For the price and ease I think I'm going this route...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/l_67_gto_black_sport_comp-1.jpg
http://www.ebay.com/itm/350525936603?_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649&item=350525936603&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT&vxp=mtr

Hey Capown,

I've seen these Thunder Road packages. Only problem for me is when I called them and asked about the A/C cover plate that is missing in the picture he told me they do not make them. So that being said I do not think I have a good enough chance to match the color/carbon fiber/brushed look for that missing piece. So I dropped that idea. Ken

[Pontiacken]

any updates??

Capown,

Update coming hopefully soon. I have been very busy at work and out of the country on business as well. I have started on the new GTO seat install and that will be the next progress update.

[Pontiacken]

Pontiacken, Robski here from Rowlett-been a while. My 64 post car chassis is about done have not posted any updates in a while. waiting for the body shop to get paint on the body!!!. I would like to bring out some COLD Miller's soon and meet you especially since we are almost neighbors. I would like see the awesome job on your build.TempGTO your base Tempest "post car" looks to be in great condition to start with. A lot of us were not that fortunate to start with a good car, or in my case I was stupid to start with a car that needed floors, trunk all the braces, located 2 new doors and a left front fender. There is not many 64-65 F-85 "post cars" around so I bought this one.But I have learned alot, "it's a money pit" but I like the progress over the last 3 years.Pontiacken give me a call sometime 214-912-6336 Robert.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/IMG_1293-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/IMG_1247-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/IMG_10703-1.jpg

Therobski,

Let me get caught up and I will so that. Thanks for the phone #. Ken

[Pontiacken]

OK it is late so I hope this all makes some kind of sense!

First after reviewing some of the cluster pics Capown posted I went back to my dash layout and with the help of my son we began to play around alittle and came up with this for a layout. Still have some work to do on it but I really like where it is going.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/IMG_3333-1.jpg

Next I have been working on adapting the 2006 GTO seats to the LeMans. On the front I cut out the factory front brackets. When I did I found that there was a captive nut on the outboard side of the floor for what I presume was for a bench seat. It just so happens that it is in the perfect position for the outboard rail to attach.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/IMG_3311-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/IMG_3310-1.jpg

So after a bunch of measuring and shimming on the inboard side to make the seat level it turned out that the captive stud bracket that I had cut off the outboard side with a little modification was the perfect thickness to level the seat. So after having my son put the seat in and setting in it at various positions I finally marked and welded in the bracket on the inboard side.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/IMG_3288-2.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/IMG_3312-2.jpg

This is what one side looks like without the seat in on the passanger side:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/IMG_3313-2.jpg

I had to cut the brackets of the seat rails in the back because they made the seats sit way to high. I am having some new ones made. When I get them back and installed I will post that as well.

So hear are the lovely bride and myself pretending to cruise:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/IMG_3293-2.jpg

Next I began looking at the back seats. I had seen on the web were someone had put these seats in a 68 model and had the car body lower seat brackets cut out of the newer GTO and used them. I have not had much luck finding a body locally that anyone is willing to cut up. So I started searching again and found where someone else just modified the bottom seat frame to work with the existing body brackets in a 68 or so Firebird. So that is the approach I am taking now.

After stripping both the upper and lower frames of the foam and leather I began looking at placement, mounting and what modifications it was going to take to get there. This is what I have found so far.

The seats will need to be cut apart as they are too narrow as an assembly to even come close to being able to use any of the oem bracketry in the 67.

The seat bottoms on the inbaord side fit with the floorboard quite nicely. However the outboard side not so much. So this area will need to be modified to get the seat bottom lower and closer to the floorboard:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/IMG_3317-1.jpg

This hoop and the turn rearward in the floorboard bracing are the big offenders here:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/IMG_3331-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/IMG_3332-1.jpg

I think I will be able to modify the seat bottoms to fit the floorboard and also I think I will be able to weld in a rod to be able to use the front hold down brackets. I mocked up what I will need with a piece of old brake line:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/IMG_3327-1.jpg

I also noticed that I might be able to use the rear hold down bracket as well doing the same thing by welding in a rod between the seat bottoms in the back and that rod will be covered by the console I am planning on having between the seats.

Next I began to see how the seats would line up with the ones in the front if I were able to figure out how to use the 67 upper hold down bracket where the upper and lower seat come together. The placement is a little to the outboard side but not bad. I think I will continue in this direction as well.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/IMG_3322-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/IMG_3320-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/IMG_3319-1.jpg

This is basically what one side will look like but the whole seat will be about an inch lower.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/IMG_3324-1.jpg

Ok I gotta go to bed. I am starting to see double :rolleyes: and Photobucket keeps locking up.

[Capown]

Awesome work on the Gauges!! Will you be cutting the stock gauge face out and replacing it with a blank flat sheet and going from there? I soo badly want GTO front seats in my car also, I'm still trying to figure out what seats I can use in the rear. I need to find something that will allow for a baby seat.

[KnightMare]

Great progress on your LeMans. I was planning on doing the exact same setup with the air ride level 3 kit, LS3, and it looks like our cars was both gold. What colors are you thinking for your LeMans? Mine sits like this so far until I get to it later this year hopefully
57231

[kainedogg]

Awesome build thread. I joined the site today and will be following yours closely. I hope my '68 Lemans 5.3\4L60e swap will look a third as good as yours brother.

Kaine

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/IMG_0103-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20111210173031-1.jpg

[Pontiacken]

Awesome work on the Gauges!! Will you be cutting the stock gauge face out and replacing it with a blank flat sheet and going from there? I soo badly want GTO front seats in my car also, I'm still trying to figure out what seats I can use in the rear. I need to find something that will allow for a baby seat.

Yes that is the plan for now. If in the meen time I can fiqure a way to inset them that would be great, but I do not have my heart set on it so to speak.-Ken

[Pontiacken]

Great progress on your LeMans. I was planning on doing the exact same setup with the air ride level 3 kit, LS3, and it looks like our cars was both gold. What colors are you thinking for your LeMans? Mine sits like this so far until I get to it later this year hopefully
57231

It will be some combination of Black, blue and or orange. Still playing with that some.-Ken

PS-Love the convertable!

[Pontiacken]

Awesome build thread. I joined the site today and will be following yours closely. I hope my '68 Lemans 5.3\4L60e swap will look a third as good as yours brother.

Kaine

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/IMG_0103-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/03/20111210173031-1.jpg

Kaine-alot of time, patience, bloody knuckles and even more money and you'll be the talk of the town! Thanks for the compliment! What's your schedule on your build? I'll be watching.-Ken

[Pontiacken]

Well I finaly think I have figured out and made all but two modification to get the rear seats installed.
In this process I had to remember that the modifications and final installation must incorporate a way to de-install the seats at a later time if need be. This took me lots of time as I am a very simple thinker and this was a more complex challenge than I originally thought it would be. I hope it all works as planned and the seats stay in place like they are suppost too!!!!

I have only been working on the passanger side so far so here are some pics of the modified seat frames for the passanger side as compared with the OEM drivers side:

Upper rear seat frames. The only modification was to cut off the extra rod between the two seats after seperation.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/IMG_3342-1.jpg

Lower seat frames. There are several modifications on the passanger side as compared to the OEM driver side.
Here you can see the rod that I welded in to take advantage of the existing forward seat bracket.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/IMG_3336-1.jpg

Here I turned one frame around to show the difference where I had to flatten out the side rods so the frame would sit in it's new location better.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/IMG_3337-1.jpg

Here you can see were I did the same thing to the side rods on the other side as well as remove the loop of rod that was used to locate and fasten the seats in the 04-06 GTOs.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/IMG_3338-1.jpg

Here you can see the shape modifications I made to make the rear loop reach the rear connecting point and put some tension on the new rod that goes through the existing seat bracket in the Le Mans.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/IMG_3339-1.jpg

The idea, and so far what has worked up to now in many mock ups, is to put the bottom part of the seat in first. I know what you are thinking, this is totally opposite of the norm, and you are right it is! You can also see that I cut out the original upper seat attachment screw bracket. I will weld it back in its new position where you see it below behind the upper and lower seat frame loops.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/IMG_3345-1.jpg

Install the upper seat into position comes next by locating the frame "hangers" in the slots I made just below the break in the package tray. You will also notice the rear glass set back into place so I could test this procedure and make sure there was enough room for both installation and de-installation without hitting the glass. It will be tight and it will take a little finesse but it can be done.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/IMG_3343-1.jpg

I will cut a piece of flat stock and weld it to the lower frame hoop and use it as a washer and locater to make sure the seat bottom sits all the way down. The screw will run though this washer and the upper frame loop to secure the seat in place as a unit.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/IMG_3347-1.jpg

Here is the whole seat frame installed. I still have to cut and weld in the flat stock to the lower frame and relocate the original hold down bracket and weld it in.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/IMG_3351-1.jpg

I am also going to trim some of the foam from the upper seat as there is too much there and it pushes hard against the body frame rail the runs between the floor and the package tray. After a couple of test cuts it looks like a kitchen electric carving knife will work great for this.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/IMG_3348-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/IMG_3350-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/IMG_3349-1.jpg

I will update again when I have a finished product. Ken

[TEMP GTO]

Looks good Ken. I am thinking I will go with half of your plann. I am going to go with a stock rear seat and put in new buckets up front. If you don't mind me asking what did you pay for your newer GTO buckets? As all ways keep up the good work.

[Pontiacken]

Looks good Ken. I am thinking I will go with half of your plann. I am going to go with a stock rear seat and put in new buckets up front. If you don't mind me asking what did you pay for your newer GTO buckets? As all ways keep up the good work.

Mark the front and back together were $600.00 plus shipping. There are less expensive ones out there but I went for these because 1.) they are blue and 2.) the leather was in such good shape I knew I could get by for awhile before a recover would be needed. What color are you thinking about? Ken

[John Wright]

Project is coming right along...nice work.

[TEMP GTO]

Thanks Ken. I am thinking I am going to go with black. the car is going to either be a silver or a charcoal/gun metal gray.

[chvz99]

hello ken .
nice build you got going on .
hey i have a serpentine kit from billet specialties 13450PA that i recently bougth for my build , but i decided to do a supercharger setup so this will no longer work for me .
every thing is new in the box,
im in arlington tx. if you want to see them let me know. billet wont take them back since i opened the box!:hammer:

[boostmaster]

Hey Ken,
Just read your thread. Lots of good info here. I was wondering if the car will stay Lemans or cloned into a gto (hood and tails)?
Also, when you mentioned the custom repop 67 dash you said that the a/c plate is not available. Can you not find an OE one or is it the matching of the colors?

I'm new here and in the process of doing a 67 Tempest. So, I'm reading all related threads to keep my headaches to a minimum.

Looks like your ride will be a heck of a car when she's finished!

[Pontiacken]

hello ken .
nice build you got going on .
hey i have a serpentine kit from billet specialties 13450PA that i recently bougth for my build , but i decided to do a supercharger setup so this will no longer work for me .
every thing is new in the box,
im in arlington tx. if you want to see them let me know. billet wont take them back since i opened the box!:hammer:

Diego,
Thank you for the offer. As in PM let's get back together in July if you still have it. Ken

[Pontiacken]

Hey Ken,
Just read your thread. Lots of good info here. I was wondering if the car will stay Lemans or cloned into a gto (hood and tails)?
Also, when you mentioned the custom repop 67 dash you said that the a/c plate is not available. Can you not find an OE one or is it the matching of the colors?

I'm new here and in the process of doing a 67 Tempest. So, I'm reading all related threads to keep my headaches to a minimum.

Looks like your ride will be a heck of a car when she's finished!

Boostmaster,
It will have a GTO hood. In keeping with the "New car in an old body" theme I would like to have LED tail lights. I like the GTO tails better but the cost of the change over may be prohibitive at this point. Still working on that.

The main reason for not going with the Thunder Road dash is I do not think I could get a good enough match in surfaces/finishes in the A/C plate that I would be satisfied with. I really am liking the layout my son and I have been working on and that leaves my options completely open as to gauge manufacture and selection.

Thank you for your kind words and good luck with you project! - Ken

[KevinK]

...just stumbled upon this thread. Very cool project, ...and awsome work!! :)

[Pontiacken]

...just stumbled upon this thread. Very cool project, ...and awsome work!! :)

Kevin - Thank you very much! - Ken

[acegto]

Ken,
On the Covan's website it shows the Ac/Heater Controls hole to be optional. It'd be more work, but you could use different controls with it but maintain the same texture throughout the panel. That is if they really offer it without the void.

[andrewb70]

Great project. I just read the whole thread and you are making great progress.

With regard to the gauge layout. I recommend that you mount the tach and the speedo as close together as possible. I speak from experience on this. With a smaller diameter steering wheel, which I am sure you will be using, it will be hard to have full visibility of the two center gauges unless they are very close together. An alternative layout would be to mount the tach in the middle and a smaller speedo off to the side. While this setup is not symmetrical, it will be much more practical.

Also make sure the the transmission crossmember can slide out of their perches by turning the crossmember clockwise or counter clockwise as viewed from the bottom. Remember, with the body in place, the exhaust in place, and the transmission raised just slightly off the crossmember, you will have precious little room to maneuver. I have my stock Pontiac style crossmember inside the c-channel of the frame, like the OEM was, and it is a challenge to remove it for servicing. I am just afraid that you will bolt everything together slide a body on top and then realize later that you can't remove the crossmember.

Andrew

[Pontiacken]

Asa long time no hear! Yes that would be an option but the more I get into this the more I am looking at using 6 gauges along with the speedo and tach. Covan's only offers 4. I know there would be no way to add gauges and have it look right. However, if I do reel things in a bit and go with just the standard 4 guages then I will look at the option much again. Thanks Ken

[Pontiacken]

Andrew, I belive I checked for that when I first welded those perches in because I was trying out a couple of different mounts along with alot of test fitting. When I get back to the chassis I will definatley check that out and make sure! I do plan on a 13-14" steering wheel and try to leave 1/4" between the trim rings of the speedo and tach. I will be mocking all that up as I go along to ensure functionality. Thanks for your comments especially about the trans crossmember!

I checked out the first few pages of your thread and you have provided some great information. By the way I quess I am officially old-I remember HO Racing was the place to go for performance suspension upgrades for old cars like ours back in the 80s and early 90s.

[Pontiacken]

Here is the lower seat frame with the flat stock washer welded in along with a couple of ugly additions to the cross rod. I put those on because the seat bottom wanted to wonder a bit from side to side this keeps it tight against the seat bracket.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/IMG_3371-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/IMG_3468-1.jpg

Here the foam has been trimmed from the seat back to better fit up against the body.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/IMG_3374-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/IMG_3463-1.jpg

I did have to trim one apolstery clamp to fit the modifications to the lower seat frame.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/IMG_3466-1.jpg

Here are a couple of shots of the finished passanger rear seat. One shows the relationship of the seat to the OEM arm rest which I currently plan to use.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/IMG_3375-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/IMG_3465-1.jpg

I finally got started on the driverside rear seat.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/IMG_3469-1.jpg

All was going very well until I broke my tubing bender just before needing it to bend the cross rod. Well that's where the old saying comes from "Use the right tool for the job". I just don't have the right tool and the cheesey light brake line tubing bender just did not stand up to rolled steel rod.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/IMG_3475-1.jpg

So this is where I stopped today.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/IMG_3471-1.jpg

Will get back at it when I can. But it may be a few weeks.:crying:

[T_Raven]

Just saw this for the first time. Very nice so far. Frame looks good that color

[acegto]

What are the plans for this weekend ken? Keep it up.

[acegto]

Bump for an awesome project. Ken, i'll have to shoot you some pics but i just tore my 72 down to bare this weekend. I blame you. Haha. Post some updates already. God bless.

[Pontiacken]

Bump for an awesome project. Ken, i'll have to shoot you some pics but i just tore my 72 down to bare this weekend. I blame you. Haha. Post some updates already. God bless.

Asa, thats cool! Start a thread!
Ken

[Pontiacken]

I finally had the time over Memorial Day to get the driverside rear seat install done. It went fairly quick as I knew what I was up against and just did the same as for the passenger side rear seat.

I formed up the cross rod for the lower seat bracket, cut the side to side holding rods and the flat steel washer. Once that was done I cut out the original scew in bracket. Then all that was left was some welding.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/IMG_3797-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/IMG_3796-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/IMG_3798-1.jpg

Once it looked good then I secured it all down with the foam and covers off.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/IMG_3794-1.jpg

Here it is installed as a complete seat.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/IMG_3799-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/IMG_3800-1.jpg

It is getting hot here in Texas and business is getting very busy so it may be awhile before my next update - Ken

[TEMP GTO]

Nice work Ken! Looks like things are moving right along. Take care.

[therobski]

Excellent work on that seat frame-it's beyond me! Hey if get this message in time, I'm going to Lone Star Park-the end of the Power Tour today at around 1 PM, Look for my white pearl 67 442. Will be looking for a few other club member's here.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/DSCN2119-1.jpg

[Pontiacken]

Latley it seems the only time I get to work on the LeMans is on holidays. So I guess I will finally give this project a name: "Project Patience". By definition this name fits the project well: patience/ˈpāSHəns/The capacity to accept or tolerate delay, trouble, or suffering without getting angry or upset. 20 years, lack of money, lack of time when money is available, and plenty of bloody knuckles, burns and sore joints and muscles. After thinking about this project it makes me wonder why I enjoy it so much???????

Well anyway I was able to get the front seat rear brackets welded in and all the seats in for there last fitting before body work. My welding skills have not improved at all with the long layoffs so you will have to excuss the mess.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/IMG_5255-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/IMG_5257-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/IMG_5251-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/IMG_5254-1.jpg

The cart I made for the body to sit on has worked out well but it did not like the bump at the entery between the drive way and the garage. So one wheel ripped out back in April or May. I will take some time and get it back in working order.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/IMG_5260-1.jpg

This was the last thing to do with the body before trans tunnel "beat out". I also need to finishing out the engine, exhaust and drive shaft. Once all that is done then to the body shop it will go.

[Pontiacken]

The accessory drive kit and the Kwik Performance AC Bracket showed up on my door step yesterday so last night I went back to work and installed them.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/IMG2012091000567-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/IMG2012091000570-1.jpg

I have one question though: The Kwik Performance AC bracket takes up one of the mounting bolt holes in the head so I had to remove this:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/IMG2012091000572-1.jpg

What is it and what do I do with it? I've looked at some other threads and it appears this is removed from the engine all together and capped on the drivers side of the throttle body. Is this correct?

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/09/IMG2012091100574-1.jpg

Great Thanks for any help you can give!!!!

[CFster]

That is your evap canister purge solenoid valve and you can chuck it, unless you're planning on putting an evap canister next to your gas tank - which I don't think you are. Just cap the port on the throttle body.

If you're having a harness made you can eliminate the connector. I think the tune has to be tweaked so you don't get a check engine light.

- Colin

[Pontiacken]

That is your evap canister purge solenoid valve and you can chuck it, unless you're planning on putting an evap canister next to your gas tank - which I don't think you are. Just cap the port on the throttle body.

If you're having a harness made you can eliminate the connector. I think the tune has to be tweaked so you don't get a check engine light.

- Colin

Thanks once again Colin!

[TEMP GTO]

Hi Ken,
I have fallen into your same trap. There is never enough money and usually not a lot of time. I am stalled out a bit as well due to some finances. Sometimes I think this is a good thing though. It keeps you wanting to get to your project when you have the time and the money. Keep up the great work man. Things are really looking good.

[Pontiacken]

Hi Ken,
I have fallen into your same trap. There is never enough money and usually not a lot of time. I am stalled out a bit as well due to some finances. Sometimes I think this is a good thing though. It keeps you wanting to get to your project when you have the time and the money. Keep up the great work man. Things are really looking good.


Well what I have noticed in the times of lul that I can still sneek in some research time and that has always helped. It is amazing how much time I have spent on study and research the past couple of years!

[chvz99]

hey hello ken .
i see you already bougth a serpentine kit. i was hoping you would buy mine. i still have the tru trac system about 50 miles on them . i would like to see if youre interested in a trade. im looking to buy the same gm kit that you have so i can run a supercharger.

[Pontiacken]

hey hello ken .
i see you already bougth a serpentine kit. i was hoping you would buy mine. i still have the tru trac system about 50 miles on them . i would like to see if youre interested in a trade. im looking to buy the same gm kit that you have so i can run a supercharger.

Hello Diego,

I am so sorry for not getting back with you on this! I do love the Front Runner system. However, I am not just building an "Event Car" but it is going to have to be my daily driver as well. That in mind I am really doing my best to keep things as much GM as possible. That way, if one of those parts were to crater, they would be readily available from the dealer or parts store. Unfortunatley with the Front Runner I would be down for days or even a week or better with wait time on ordering a part plus repair time.

So, as much as I love these pieces, I think it best for me to pass. I hope you find someone soon that is interested.

Thanks and keep up the work!

Ken

[Pontiacken]

So here is the answer to the most asked question I have heard - Dougs Headers.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG2012092500618-1.jpg

I choose to try these for both ground clearence and fitment. From reading alot of post on this and other forums the Edlebrocks ground clearence was a big issue and the Hookers seem to have a few fitment issues. The Dougs have great ground clearence and have only one fitment issue that I have read about-That being steering column clearance. Mocked up here is how they look:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG2012100300630-1.jpg

Passenger side tight but do not hit anything
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG2012100300642-1.jpg

Driver side we shall see about the steering column-I may have to message the 3rd tube a little
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG2012100300639-1.jpg

Ground clearance
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/IMG2012100300644-1.jpg

So what is one to do on Sunday afternoon when you are out of parts and have come to a stand still on your project but you want to be out in the garage?

Burgers and Football anyone?
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/AugOct72012242-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/10/AugOct72012241-1.jpg

[bonecrrusher]

Thats a really thin TV = nice.

[Pontiacken]

Finally found a engine hoist to borrow and took the time over the Thanksgiving weekend to beat out the transmission tunnel were needed.

Step 1: Use 2 engine hoists and raise the body way up in the air and place 5 cinder blocks on both sides of the front. Then pass a 4x4 though the top of each block:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_5508-2.jpg

Step 2: Lower the front hoist to place the front of the body onto the 4x4:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_5509Copy-1.jpg

Step 3: Disconnect front hoist and move out of the way then roll chassis under body:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_5510Copy-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_5511-2.jpg

Step 4: Reconfigure hoist and lift off front of body off the 4x4 and remove same. Then begin lowering body onto chassis. This is where wheel dollies are worth the money as you can adjust the chassis as the body tends to move while lowering it:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_5512Copy-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_5513-2.jpg

Step 5: Thank your helpers. In this case my 2 sons-Thanks again Michael and Nick!

So back to the reason for this exercise. I found that in addition to the rear cooling line clearance issue that I knew I was going to have I found the following as well:

The front cooling line, the rear speed sensor, and the tail housing had clearance issues:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_5532-2.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_5522-2.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_5535-2.jpg

Here are the results after an afternoon of hammering, lowering the body, raising the body, hammering, lowering the body to check work, raising the body and on and on and on:
Some of these pics are not very good but it was kinda hard getting a good pic in focus while under the car.

Front cooling line
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_5540-2.jpg

Rear cooling line
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_5543-2.jpg

Rear speed sensor
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_5551-2.jpg

Tail housing
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_5544-2.jpg

I also expected that I would have a clearance issue with the steering shaft and one of the header tubes and as expected I do:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_5552-2.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/11/IMG_5553-2.jpg

So now I need to buy a gas tank, wheels and tires, drive shaft, engine and transmission computers and harnesses, gauges, radiator and fan, A/C system, transmission shifter, steering column and wheel. Figure out all the installation and mock up. Then dissassemble and begin body work.

It's only more time and more money at this point and finding enough of both!

[TEMP GTO]

Wow you have been really busy Ken! This is looking awesome! As always you do really good work. Keep it up. I am sill at a stand still for the time being. Hope this changes soon. I should get some money with plow season not very far away.

[KnightMare]

I was waiting for some updates for ideas to steal for my car. Looking great

[therobski]

I am going to have the same steering shaft clearance issue ( or close to it) on my 64 F-85. I would take pictures but car is still at the body shop. I will be watching for your updates.

[Pontiacken]

Wow you have been really busy Ken! This is looking awesome! As always you do really good work. Keep it up. I am sill at a stand still for the time being. Hope this changes soon. I should get some money with plow season not very far away.

Thanks Mark. Well I will encourage you to plow plow away so you can get back to it! BTW what will you be plowing? Dirt/snow?

[Pontiacken]

I was waiting for some updates for ideas to steal for my car. Looking great

Well as ideas come and go I will post. I checked out your Camero thread-Dude that is some serious work. Not sure I would want to try and tackle that much metal cancer. More power to ya!

[CFster]

Looking great Ken! Keep up the good work!

[TEMP GTO]

Thanks Mark. Well I will encourage you to plow plow away so you can get back to it! BTW what will you be plowing? Dirt/snow? I hope lots of snow! Take care.

[Pontiacken]

Well after a long lay off from the project I am finally moving slowly on it again.

I purchased a Tuff Stuff 9" Dual Diaphram Power Booster and mated it to a Willwood Master and adjustable prop valve that mounts right under the Master Cylinder.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/IMG2013042600009-1.jpg

I had to make the hole in the firewall a bit bigger for the rubber boot to fit but other than that this mock up was very easy.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/IMG2013042600008-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/IMG2013042600013_2-1.jpg

I also ordered some wheels finally. I originally thought I would purchase the Night Train wheels as mentioned earlier in this thread but while looking through the Rushforth website I kinda took a shine to these:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/SuperSpoke_1s_medium300x266-1.jpg

Then I saw this pic of a Chevelle with the wheels on it and in a similar style paint scheme that my son and I have been throwing around and the descision was made: Super Spoke with gunmetal powder coated centers and bright hoops.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/rushgrn-1.jpg

They should arrive in late Sept or early Oct so I have some time to get the brakes back on it and find some used tires to mount.

I need to order a radiator/fan, a harness and ECM, A/C system, etc, etc, etc........

[Zoomin]

Hello? Hello? Anybody home?

[Pontiacken]

Hello? Hello? Anybody home?

Steve,

I am home but serveral other things going on that have hendered progress and my ability to update the thread. Once things shape up I will get back to it.

Thank you for checking in,
Ken

[Pontiacken]

Well it has been a year and a half since my last meaningful post. Problems at work have kept me sidelined on this project so things have been moving vvvvvvvvvveeeeeeeeeerrrrrrrrrryyyyyyyyyyy slow.

The Rushforth wheels did come in last year or maybe the year before. But anyway knowing things were not going to move along quickly I put used rubber on them so I would not end up with brand new performance tires with flat spots or dry rot by the time the car was ready to use.

110870

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I have also run most of the brake lines, mocked up driver side Lokar e brake cables to see what I will need to do to connect the pedal cable to the brake cables as well as mocking up the Magna Flow exhaust to see how much will need to be removed from the center pipes to get the crossover in the proper location.

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110875

Since this project has taken so long to get to this point and will take quite a bit longer to complete, my plan is to get the chassis running to prove all is well before moving on to the body work, interior and remaining electrical.

So I will tackle the fuel tank next followed by finishing up what is left to do with the accessory drive. After that tackle the cooling system. If things do not change there I will use and external trans cooler with a fan unit and use the trans cooler in the radiator to cool the power steering. Next will be plumbing everything up and the engine/trans wiring and ecu install.

I sure hope it is not another year and a half before my next post! To much rust to shake off and figure out both Photobucket and how to post again.:confused:

[wyattroa]

I sure hope it is not another year and a half before my next post! To much rust to shake off and figure out both Photobucket and how to post again.:confused:

Not a year and a half, but two years! Any news on this build?

[Pontiacken]

I am sure no one is keeping up with my build any longer since hit has more or less been on hold for a while. However, I am back on it and trying to get the roller running before the end of the year.

I had to remove my A/C bracket and put the idler pulley back to the original no A/C position. Also got the power steering lines sorted out and installed.
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I purchased a Cold Case HD Replacement Radiator to keep the install simple and less expensive. I used an adapter in the top hose for the steam line.
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I have almost finished my transmission cooling lines. These were fun as there just was not enough room for a direct path due to the long tube headers. So, I went around the the passenger side spring pocket then under the frame to the radiator. I will more than likely add an aux cooler before putting it on the road just as GM did for the 4L80's from the factory.
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Added a transmission dip stick that I think is going to work. I just need to remove and relocate the mounting tab to a rear head bolt position.
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Purchased and installed a Tank's Inc. EFI tank. I purchased the float less fuel level sender. I hope it works out ok because the plastic top was warped which made installation a bear. I had to make a new fastener hole in the gasket so hopefully i will not have any leakage. I also turned my fuel rail around to have the inlet on the passenger side to match the side the fuel line is on.
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I also have installed temporary fuel and oil pressure gauges for the first start up.
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I have ordered and am awaiting the ECU and wiring harness for the engine and transmission.

Before they arrive i need to finish the transmission lines, wire up my fans, copper coat the header gaskets and install them for the last time, come up with a push to start apparatus and fill the engine, transmission, power steering and radiator with the appropriate fluids.

Until next time...........

[52Muntz]

Hard to tell from the pictures — how close are those passenger side trans lines to the headers? Are you planning on some type of heat shielding in that location or would it not be needed?

[Pontiacken]

Hard to tell from the pictures — how close are those passenger side trans lines to the headers? Are you planning on some type of heat shielding in that location or would it not be needed?

52Muntz the closest point between one of the lines and a header tube is 1". I am planning to wait and see how this works out but heat shield is an option.

[rstrittmatter]

Looking at your oil line/ adapter.
Have you seen this video ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xougOfO1EKQ

Richard

[Pontiacken]

Yikes:jawdrop: I will have to take mine off and see how far the fitting went into the plate. Thanks a bunch Richard for the heads up!!!!

[andrewb70]

Yikes:jawdrop: I will have to take mine off and see how far the fitting went into the plate. Thanks a bunch Richard for the heads up!!!!

Get yourself a oil bypass cover from a 4th gen f-body. They have a boss on them that points up and can be drilled for a NPT fitting.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/1412119-how-install-mechanical-oil-pressure-gauge.html

Picture in post #11, part numbers in post #25.

Andrew

[Pontiacken]

Well I pulled off my tapped oil block plate and the fitting is flush with the recessed portion of the plate. This makes me think all is ok. What do you think?
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[andrewb70]

I'm pretty sure oil needs to flow through...I wouldn't mess with the OEM design of that part. Get one of the parts that was shown in the link I posted.

Andrew

[Schwartz Performance]

It's fine as-is.

Done it a bunch of times.

-Dale

[Motown 454]

Do you have a hose to protect the trans lines from vibration between the trans and frame? You don't want the lines to crack.
It's looking good.

[Pontiacken]

Thanks Andrew. I am awaiting the time that I pre-lube the engine to see if it reads and oil get everywhere it should. If it does I will leave it as it is just temporary.

- - - Updated - - -

Thanks Dan see above response to Andrew.

[Pontiacken]

Do you have a hose to protect the trans lines from vibration between the trans and frame? You don't want the lines to crack.
It's looking good.

Motown,

For my final install I secured them with clamps and standoffs so they do not touch or rub the frame. What do you think:

157913

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[Pontiacken]

Got the Transmission Dip Stick mounting bracket cut off and welded in its new location to secure it to the head. Rattle canned it black and reinstalled.

157915

I have also connected the engine wiring harness including adding some heat shield on wires and cables near headers, installed headers for real and started some of the other wiring needed to get the engine running. I will have a temporary panel set up with the ECU, TCU, switches and possibly some of the relays installed on it since the body is still off. Final wiring will have proper weather pack connectors, heat shrink and the like. If all goes well I am aiming for mid November start up.

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[Pontiacken]

Made a temporary fire wall/dash, wired up the ignition, fans and fuel pump, put in an ample supply of various fluids and some fuel then lite her off.


https://youtu.be/r39joDDSObs


https://youtu.be/NAg5oBm8leI

[XLexusTech]

Awesome ken ! Could I ask you for a huge favor? Could you please get a photo of the coil wires on one or both sides? Specifically the colors to the large connector and to the front cylinder?

You see I bought the same motor the coil bracket on the stock vale covers make it impossible to mess up they only go on one way. I put after market value covers on and I fear I may have mixed up the coins banks. I am right about at the same spot ready to fire it up and I am paranoid that I messed this up

[Pontiacken]

Awesome ken ! Could I ask you for a huge favor? Could you please get a photo of the coil wires on one or both sides? Specifically the colors to the large connector and to the front cylinder?

You see I bought the same motor the coil bracket on the stock vale covers make it impossible to mess up they only go on one way. I put after market value covers on and I fear I may have mixed up the coins banks. I am right about at the same spot ready to fire it up and I am paranoid that I messed this up

XLexusTech is this what you are looking for?

Driver Side Big Connector looks like Dark Grey, Dark Green, Brown and Pink in the front and Green, Red and Black in the back.
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Driver Side #1 Cylinder front looks like Pink, maybe a Dark Purple, Brown and Black.
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Passenger Side Big Connector looks like Brown, Blue, Purple and Orange in the front and Green, Red and Black in back.
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Passenger Side #2 Cylinder front looks like Orange, Red, Brown and Black.
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[XLexusTech]

Yes sir thank you !

[Pontiacken]

Yes sir thank you !

You're welcome! Glad to help.

[jaybee]

Very detailed, I like what you're doing. Thanks for sharing.

[Pontiacken]

Very detailed, I like what you're doing. Thanks for sharing.

Thank you John. It is truly my pleasure as I have gained a wealth of knowledge from this and similar forums so I will not hesitate to help a fellow hot-rodder/motor-head.

[Pontiacken]

Main floor plan issue is the passenger front where it appears the heater core went out and no one ever addressed getting all the coolant cleaned up and so the floor rusted out pretty bad here.

Starting to fit the pan:
165043

Just about ready to start welding:
165044

[Pontiacken]

Winter is over. Time to get back at it. Heat cycle the engine and continue cleaning off the undercoating on the body.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mPpRBqL1MeQ

Got most of the undercoating off the cabin area

174864

But still have the trunk area left

174865

[JustJohn]

Ken, we have nearly identical frames and I just got mine back from the sandblaster. Aside from the rear lower trailing arms, did you add gussets anywhere else?

[Alwhite00]

Car is looking great. Love all the powder coating and chassis mods. Only one mod I question is when you set back the engine mounts you tapped the frame instead of through bolting. The reason they are through bolted as the frame is not of sufficient thickness to tap threaded holes. I understand why you did it, just throwing it out there. I hope at a minimum you used fine thread.

[Pontiacken]

Ken, we have nearly identical frames and I just got mine back from the sandblaster. Aside from the rear lower trailing arms, did you add gussets anywhere else?

No John I did not. However, I wish I had done a bar between the rails or some other tie-ins because this thing flexes something terrible when I jack up one corner at a time.

[Pontiacken]

Car is looking great. Love all the powder coating and chassis mods. Only one mod I question is when you set back the engine mounts you tapped the frame instead of through bolting. The reason they are through bolted as the frame is not of sufficient thickness to tap threaded holes. I understand why you did it, just throwing it out there. I hope at a minimum you used fine thread.

Alwhite00 - I would have never relied on the tapped hole only. I would have drilled that out and used bolt and nut fasteners as per the original. However, I eventually bought different adapter plates so I could move back to the original engine mount holes. so my transmission tunnel modification would be minimal. I hate body work!