sand paper ?

[brans72]

ok guy's no bashing on me please! I have the panels off a 67 short bed c10 and they need to be clean up from previous unfinished body work where all molding where shaved and you can see where filler was applied but not sanded down correctly and looks crappy. I was wondering since on a budget and I will be using a decent electric sander what paper you recomm to use. This is a orbitale sander and I know I will need more then one type paper. This will be a learning process for me but if I can get some help would be great and one more step closer getting back to my personal car and finished with wifes truck for the monment. Thanks for any advice

Yes I have a compressor if anyone wants to recomm a air DA to look into getting also here are the specs I/R SS5L5 CFM at 90 PSI
18.1Max. PSI
135Volts
230Amps
22.5HP
5Air Tank Size (gal.)
60Tank Description
Vertical
That is all budget could afford at the time. So hopefully someone will be able to give me some info and tips on a D/A and setting it up right as in regulating part correctly for when time comes. Thanks guys Brandon

[redss86]

Well as far as sand paper, you will need at least three different grits. You will need 80 grit to prep the surface for filler, and to "rough" cut your filler. In other words, use the 80 grit to just knock the ridges/ highs off the filler. Don't go too far with 80 as it cuts fast, and you will undercut in a hurry. Then you will need something around the 180 grit range. Use this to finish sanding the filler, and to remove the 80 grit scratches. Finally you will need some 320 grit for feather edging any existing paint. Then you are ready for primer.

As far as D.A.'s go, it all depends on how much you will use it, and how much you want to spend. Dynabrade is a really good tool, and they offer different cuts. When I say cuts, I am referring to the size of the orbit. The smaller the size, the finer/ slower the cut. Your typical da is a 3/16" cut, which is a good overall cut, but they also offer from 3/32" all the way to 3/8" cuts.

As for your compressor, it will get you by, but it will kick on real quick with a da. Plus you will not be able to use the da very long before you run out of air pressure. The comp will continue to run until you quit and let it catch up. It will also get hot quick, hot air = wet air= BAD for air tools.

If you are looking to buy a da, you might consider an electric one. I don't know if they are available in different size cuts, but I believe they are cheaper than air ones. Plus they are cheaper to run, because with air you are using two power sources (air, and electric to compress the air)

Sorry for the long post, but I hope it helps.

[brans72]

No long post are good to hear actually and you gave me some good insight. Yeah I know I need a 2 stange compressor but unless someone gives me a great deal on mine which is in super shape then I am out of luck for the time. Honestly I will not be doing super sanding just basic stuff for primer to get it to primer stage for now. I will leave the the real painting to my buddy but wanna learn basic for now as it is good to learn. So any thoughts on what electric sander to buy besides one I have already that is a rigid? Guess next step is to learn about fillers the good/bad of each and which to use since local Napa now carries alot of different ones from dyno/there brand and evercoat. So any more tips you wish or any other member wish to share feel free. Brandon

[elitecustombody]

I'd use 120 grit after 80,if you must use 80. Most of my plastic filler work I start with 120. You can also do it all by hand with few good blocks. 18 CFM's should be enough for a D/A,if you have to use air sander.Whatever you do, do not use cheap lacquer primer.

[brans72]

Can I use SPI expoxy primer or another expoxy primer? Anyone wanna take a stab at recomm some blocks? They will be used on 67 C10 SWB and 72 Chevelle if that helps. Thanks for the info so far guys keep it coming.

[elitecustombody]

You can use SPI, it's good primer,but any epoxy primer will work,just try to follow the instructions. For blocks, I'd recommend Dura-Block, you can buy a set of different shapes and lengths or individual pieces.

[First Bird]

I have the IR SS5L5 and just finished the body and paint on my 68 Firebird. I really liked that compressor. But I found early on that it would not run the DA I bought - a $40 HF model. Maybe a more expensive DA would use air more efficiently - someone else will need to speak to that. I did the whole project without a DA. I stripped paint with chemicals. I used blocks to hand sand. I didn't miss the DA.

[Blown73]

Be careful using a DA on bondo. You should really be using a hand long board. Dura blocks are great and help maintain the bodyline. If you use a DA, you lose the "feel" for the body and where you are trying to patch. I did that on my first car and I couldn't figure out why there was still a low spot where I used the DA. Just my .02!

[Nessumsar]

I have had really good luck using a 10" random orbital paint buffer, with sticky-backed 10" sanding disks applied directly to the buffers foam. I know, sounds hokey, but it worked really well.