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    Results 1 to 18 of 18
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Feb 2005
      Location
      Waterloo, Ia
      Posts
      1,408

      Wilwood advice? Any good rear disc kits w/parking brake to match Wilwood D52 kit?

      I was looking at this Wilwood kit from CPP. It seems like a darn good deal. $485 for calipers, pads, 11" rotors, seals, bearings, forged spindles, brackets, dust shields, braided lines and all hardware....for $485. It seems like a steal.



      http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...#ht_3543wt_939

      Now i was wondering if there's a good complimentary kit to go with this setup that includes parking brake provisions? According to the Wilwood site their D-52 rear caliper doesn't have provisions for a parking brake. Is there any reason why? Is there a kit that would work well with this on a 67' GM A body car with a 12 bolt style housing end? Iv'e already got a Wilwood 7/8" Master cylinder and i'm not running any power assist if that makes a difference. I saw this kit from Currie that may work well but im not sure. Any suggestions?

      Currie kit

      http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Curri...#ht_1719wt_897
      -Nick
      -1967 GTO I drive and race
      -Build threads:
      -http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=615847&page=23
      -https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...project-thread



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Jun 2009
      Posts
      651
      Country Flag: United States
      I am not a huge fan of the e-brake rear disc kit from Wilwood. If I could do it again, I'd stick with just a strait disc setup.
      Dan W
      1968 Plymouth Road Runner
      1962 Dodge Dart 440

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Aug 2003
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      8,745
      Just so you know, That is not a Wilwood kit. that is a factory reproduction kit with Wilwood Calipers.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Location
      Pgh, PA
      Posts
      2,177
      Though I'm using the Lokar center mounted handbrake which is admittedly not as good as an OEM type pedal apparently, my Wilwood ebrake is thus far totally ineffective.
      '66 GTO Vert Project "Red Ink", 462ci of stroked pontiac power, TKO600, SC&C Stg II+, Tubular lowers, Currectrac Rear suspension, Moser 12bolt w/Truetrack, Wilwood Master and discs all around, too much fun for words...

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Feb 2005
      Location
      Waterloo, Ia
      Posts
      1,408
      So you guys are saying that Wilwood e-brake setups don't work?
      -Nick
      -1967 GTO I drive and race
      -Build threads:
      -http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=615847&page=23
      -https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...project-thread


    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jun 2009
      Posts
      651
      Country Flag: United States
      I am saying that I would like mine to stop exploding and eating parts when it is not even hooked up.
      Dan W
      1968 Plymouth Road Runner
      1962 Dodge Dart 440

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Henderson,NV
      Posts
      2,870
      Country Flag: United States
      My e brake has worked fine. It's important to use the factory routing and mechanism IMO. Get your leg into it. In fact, I'm adapting the caliper pictured in the kit you posted to my internal e brake set up right now. (It's a floating caliper)
      Todd

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Henderson,NV
      Posts
      2,870
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by rrunner68 View Post
      I am saying that I would like mine to stop exploding and eating parts when it is not even hooked up.
      I'll take a look at mine tonight, but having it unhooked may be the issue. You could just gut it for the time being as well.
      Todd

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Location
      Pgh, PA
      Posts
      2,177
      Quote Originally Posted by Vegas69 View Post
      I'll take a look at mine tonight, but having it unhooked may be the issue. You could just gut it for the time being as well.
      I ran mine for a year without it being hooked up and it never created a problem. I actually wish I had not bothered hooking it up.

      I have heard that if you use the factory foot style e-brake, it works OK. Unfortunately, that was not possible for me. It's hard for me to understand how so many factory ebrake options allow for a center mounted hand brake but wilwood can't seem to address that. Not that big of a deal but it sure would be nice. I am using the entire wilwood cables with housings, and if anything, they are routed far more effectively and efficiently than any factory setup. The conflict is obviously between the wilwood setup and the amount of force/leverage that can be applied via the hand lever. The wilwood simply seems to need ridiculous amounts of leverage and throw. JMO.
      '66 GTO Vert Project "Red Ink", 462ci of stroked pontiac power, TKO600, SC&C Stg II+, Tubular lowers, Currectrac Rear suspension, Moser 12bolt w/Truetrack, Wilwood Master and discs all around, too much fun for words...

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Coronado, CA
      Posts
      1,688
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by rrunner68 View Post
      I am not a huge fan of the e-brake rear disc kit from Wilwood. If I could do it again, I'd stick with just a strait disc setup.
      Same here. If I could do it over again I would go with some of the e-brake set ups that can be found by using the search feature here on P-T.com. There are a couple that I've found that looks more suitable. From drive line mounted to the single pot style that go on the rotor. Maybe it's just that internal expanding drums weren't "meant to be" as e-brakes?
      Johnny C.
      -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      70 'cuda, Pro-Charged 408 stroker, Tremec 5 speed, Strange S-60, Alter-k-tion, Tri 4, Hydroboost and Wilwoods

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Jun 2009
      Posts
      651
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by go-fish View Post
      Same here. If I could do it over again I would go with some of the e-brake set ups that can be found by using the search feature here on P-T.com. There are a couple that I've found that looks more suitable. From drive line mounted to the single pot style that go on the rotor. Maybe it's just that internal expanding drums weren't "meant to be" as e-brakes?
      OEM's do it just fine. I just think that my Dana hates me sometimes.
      Dan W
      1968 Plymouth Road Runner
      1962 Dodge Dart 440

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Henderson,NV
      Posts
      2,870
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by wmhjr View Post
      I ran mine for a year without it being hooked up and it never created a problem. I actually wish I had not bothered hooking it up.

      I have heard that if you use the factory foot style e-brake, it works OK. Unfortunately, that was not possible for me. It's hard for me to understand how so many factory ebrake options allow for a center mounted hand brake but wilwood can't seem to address that. Not that big of a deal but it sure would be nice. I am using the entire wilwood cables with housings, and if anything, they are routed far more effectively and efficiently than any factory setup. The conflict is obviously between the wilwood setup and the amount of force/leverage that can be applied via the hand lever. The wilwood simply seems to need ridiculous amounts of leverage and throw. JMO.
      Very well could be a poorly designed handle mechanism. Aftermarket parts aren't always engineered well.

      The shoes need to be pretty tight on the drums. It takes a while to get it adjusted where it works well.
      Todd

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Location
      Pgh, PA
      Posts
      2,177
      Quote Originally Posted by Vegas69 View Post
      Very well could be a poorly designed handle mechanism. Aftermarket parts aren't always engineered well.

      The shoes need to be pretty tight on the drums. It takes a while to get it adjusted where it works well.
      Yeah, I agree, though I don't know that I've ever heard of anyone having a center handle setup with the Wilwood ebrake and it working well..... So far I've probably adjusted my shoes about 15 times. Not a darned difference.

      Ferris?
      '66 GTO Vert Project "Red Ink", 462ci of stroked pontiac power, TKO600, SC&C Stg II+, Tubular lowers, Currectrac Rear suspension, Moser 12bolt w/Truetrack, Wilwood Master and discs all around, too much fun for words...

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Henderson,NV
      Posts
      2,870
      Country Flag: United States
      Are you reaching the end of the stroke on the handle or is it a leverage deal?
      Todd

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Location
      Pgh, PA
      Posts
      2,177
      Quote Originally Posted by Vegas69 View Post
      Are you reaching the end of the stroke on the handle or is it a leverage deal?
      Leverage. I'm just about pulling the damn tranny tunnel up with the muscle I've put into it. Doesn't matter. I'm not hitting the end of the stroke. Talked to Wilwood and they said the Lokar unit probably wouldn't work. Of course, that's after I installed it.
      '66 GTO Vert Project "Red Ink", 462ci of stroked pontiac power, TKO600, SC&C Stg II+, Tubular lowers, Currectrac Rear suspension, Moser 12bolt w/Truetrack, Wilwood Master and discs all around, too much fun for words...

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Aug 2006
      Location
      austin
      Posts
      358
      Maybe you guys should try the s-10 rear disc conversion. Nice alum caliper, and a drum e brake to boot! OEM is hard to beat sometimes.
      Greg
      1976 Trans Am SacrilEdge
      twin turbo 455
      Ttops and 4spd
      one of 110 made
      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ect&highlight=
      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ilEdge-is-free!

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Feb 2005
      Location
      Waterloo, Ia
      Posts
      1,408
      any good links to info on the S-10 conversion>
      -Nick
      -1967 GTO I drive and race
      -Build threads:
      -http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=615847&page=23
      -https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...project-thread


    18. #18
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Montgomery, IL
      Posts
      359
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Novaguy73 View Post
      any good links to info on the S-10 conversion>
      http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=109454
      71 Formula, 455 SD/KRE D-Ports, Crower solid cam, TKO 600, 3:73 Eaton posi. 17" ARE 200s, , 1LE brakes, Koni, Rancho adjustable bars, Hotchkis springs




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