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View Full Version : How do you safely work under your car?



Tony_SS
06-23-2011, 02:58 AM
I'm not too fond of jackstands.

I was thinking of using this method. Thoughts?


47715

Robert-Malibu
06-23-2011, 03:03 AM
I'm spoiled, I use a lift. But I don't see anything around with the pic you have other than how are you going to get it down. You would have to raise the car really high to get it off the blocks since the suspension would have to drop down.

absintheisfun
06-23-2011, 03:16 AM
I use the lincoln log method, and just to be extra safe I have a tie-down strap (10,000lb rated) that I loop around one of my back tires and around the bottom of the stand...there is no way that car is coming off of the stands.

The great thing about the wooden stands (lincoln logs) is that you can add to them if you want to stand higher, and total cost to make them is about $10.00!

Tony_SS
06-23-2011, 03:30 AM
Robert, If I'm able to jack up the car high enough to slide those under, I'll be able to lift it high enough to slide them out.


I use the lincoln log method, and just to be extra safe I have a tie-down strap (10,000lb rated) that I loop around one of my back tires and around the bottom of the stand...there is no way that car is coming off of the stands.

The great thing about the wooden stands (lincoln logs) is that you can add to them if you want to stand higher, and total cost to make them is about $10.00!

Have any reference pics?

NOT A TA
06-23-2011, 06:41 AM
When I built my stackable wheel cradles I also built stackable platform sections for the jacks. I can raise a car up 2 full feet with my current setup (double what you see below). Cost was nothing for the wood, I disassembled shipping skids for the 2 X 4's. I made the wheel cradles long enough to allow the car to roll a little to compensate for the movement necessary because the jacks don't lift straight up. This prevents tipping of the cradles while raising the car. There are 4 "top sections" of the wheel cradles with a flat surface while the rest of the sections are the typical 2 x 4 blocks. Same deal with the jack support sections, top section has a flat surface and the lower ones are just 2 X's. Jack platforms are nice for trucks and other tall vehicles rather than stacking blocks on the jack pad.

EDIT: I realized after posting that the truck pic below shows no supports. I was not going to work under the truck, just needed the front wheels off the ground so I could rotate them by hand to bleed the power steering. DO NOT WORK UNDER A VEHICLE THAT IS ONLY SUPPORTED BY A JACK!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/MVC002F3-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/MVC013F10-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/EVEL028-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/001-1.jpg

Tony_SS
06-23-2011, 07:31 AM
Very nice. I see you made yours stackable. I'm not sure how I feel about that. I really don't want to do a base for the jack.

In my pic in the OP, I counted 7 2x4's high so that's only 10.5" high, which doesn't seem like much, but looks like enough from that picture. And you have 8 with gives 12". I don't think I'll need a jack base if I lift under the rear diff to keep the suspension loaded, block the rear wheels, then use a jack for the front center and use a 2nd jack under each a-arm to do the front wheels one at a time.

trapin
06-23-2011, 07:52 AM
I am not a fan of jackstands at all. I used 4X4 blocks that I stitched together that I use underneath my car ramps on all 4 tires. I also made one for the floor jack. I wish I had done the stackable setup like I see here.

BulldawgMusclecars
06-23-2011, 09:46 AM
We use the wooden stands (interlocking 2x4s, and sometimes 4x4s), and have had no issues. We build them in varying heights, so they can be tailored to the job. They are especially good if your lift is tied up, or you're doing more of a long term project and don't want to tie up the lift.

Kenova
06-23-2011, 11:18 AM
I like to pull the wheels of if I'm doing any long term work so I use stands. Each stand is rated for 6 tons and I usually have six of them under the car. This might sound nuts, but I try to shake the car off of the stands before I get under the car. Better to have something go wrong before I get under it.
The wooden cribbing shown in the previous photos is a good Idea. I can see how you would have much more room to move around under the car as opposed to using stands.

Ken

Jim Nilsen
06-23-2011, 04:26 PM
I like to pull the wheels of if I'm doing any long term work so I use stands. Each stand is rated for 6 tons and I usually have six of them under the car. This might sound nuts, but I try to shake the car off of the stands before I get under the car. Better to have something go wrong before I get under it.
The wooden cribbing shown in the previous photos is a good Idea. I can see how you would have much more room to move around under the car as opposed to using stands.

Ken

I 2nd the 6 ton jack stands and shaking the car to make sure it's stable. Taking the wheels off is the other reason to have jack stands.

I have said it more than once that wood is good but steel is real when it comes to strength, I have rarely seen steel beams break but have seen plenty of wood go crack and split when loaded to the max. it makes me nervous to hear the popping and creaking of wood loading up with weight.

If you position your jackstands right you can build the whole car on them, I did!

grenade inspector
06-23-2011, 04:41 PM
personally I'd take the wood over a lift for most things and certainly over jackstands. That's just what I'm comfortable with

DartorDemon
06-23-2011, 05:21 PM
I am not a fan of jackstands at all.

why?

I've used jackstands for years. I've never really heard of someone complaining about them.

moreHP
06-23-2011, 05:33 PM
Well I use jackstands and havent had any problems. I just make sure they are on a very stable part and mine have a slight cradle that works great under the rear diff. I always shake the car to make sure there is no wiggle before I do any work and I usually leave the jack under there as a back up if its not going to be in the way of what I plan on working on. The only other thing I have used is the platform part of those drive up ramps. Mine had a removable ramp so I tossed those and just used the platform.

1red68
06-23-2011, 05:44 PM
i use stands and blocks, depends what my needs are at that time.
I'm trying to fine enough material to build some stands like these from Ironworks. I think they rock. :headbang:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/ShopPicsAugust2009099-1.jpg

Steve68
06-23-2011, 05:53 PM
And the 2x4's block stands make great seats for hangn' in the garage!!!

Taylor1969
06-24-2011, 05:41 AM
How does everyone feel about these?

http://www.discountramps.com/wheel-cribs.htm

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Even though they are about $200 they weigh next to nothing so storage should be good - they are also rated to a very high weight with helps for peace of mind...

wmhjr
06-24-2011, 06:02 AM
Halfway through my build I broke down and installed a lift. I don't know why I waited so long. It is the best tool I own - bar none. And mine is only a "mid" high lift (MaxJax that I've installed in a more permanent fashion).

For other purposes I use jack stands, and have with no problems whatsoever.

John Wright
06-24-2011, 07:01 AM
I like jackstands too....however, they require a stable base(ie flat concrete) to ensure they won't tip over. I use the large stands so that when lifting fairly high they won't be extended all the way out. There is something about a fully extended jackstand that doesn't sit well with me. I have some 10" x 10" x 5/8" wall square tubing x 10" that I welded a 1" thick x 12" x 12" plate to the top and bottom to sit the stands on if needed to go any higher than the stands allow(gives me another foot of altitude).

Tony_SS
06-24-2011, 07:22 AM
How does everyone feel about these?

http://www.discountramps.com/wheel-cribs.htm

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Even though they are about $200 they weigh next to nothing so storage should be good - they are also rated to a very high weight with helps for peace of mind...

Those look nice. I'm working with limited space, so I like those in that they'll store easily too. Another reason they are a good idea is that I can work around those alot easier with a creeper.

NOT A TA
06-24-2011, 09:13 AM
I should have added in my earlier post that I have a 2 post lift available and 8 jackstands as well as the wood cradles and I consider them all tools. They are different tools for different jobs although they may perform a similar function. A car on the wide base wood wheel cradles is more stable than jackstands simply because the footprint is bigger. The closer to the center of the car jackstands are positioned the less stable the car is. When you need to work on frame, floorpans etc. the wood cradles are good. If you need to work on wheels, brakes, suspension etc. then the jackstands are better. Different tools for different jobs.

406 Q-ship
06-24-2011, 09:41 AM
I like jackstands too....however, they require a stable base(ie flat concrete) to ensure they won't tip over. I use the large stands so that when lifting fairly high they won't be extended all the way out. There is something about a fully extended jackstand that doesn't sit well with me. I have some 10" x 10" x 5/8" wall square tubing x 10" that I welded a 1" thick x 12" x 12" plate to the top and bottom to sit the stands on if needed to go any higher than the stands allow(gives me another foot of altitude).

I have always used jackstands and like any tool they can used improperly. I only use them on a flat stable surface and the stand must have a load rating well above what it will carry in weight. I have been on the wrong end of a jackstand failure and such have never forgotten it. I was working at an airport as a apprentice aircraft mechanic and on vehicles for the FOB. I was doing brakes on a 3/4 passenger extended Dodge van, I had lifted and supported the front of the van with two stands (these were cheap stands cause I worked for cheap *******s), without my concent another person went lift the van in the rear using a forklift. I was in the process of removing the lugnuts on a front wheel, the forklift lifted the van above the height of the front jackstands, effectively putting most of the weight of the van on to the cheap a$$ weak POS stands. The stand on the side I was working failed catasprophically, lucky for me I had 4 out of 8 lug nuts still loosly on the tire. The van came down in a hurry the wheel bounced down between my legs (yes the jewels were close to the action), the wheel house lip came down on the top of my head. Well after the flash of light (I think Grandma and Elvis were there in that light with cookies), I damn near tore the head off the dump a$$ on the forklift. Now I own only 5 tons stands (6 of them) and two of the 3 ton smaller ones for supporting lighter vehicles, so I have no problem with good jackstands on a hard flat surface and I never use a jackstand at above 75% extention. The cribbing isn't a bad idea but there is a times the wheels have to come off and then your back on jackstands, in fact I finding blowing the wheels off make most jobs easier anyway. Like any tool it is the operator that is the most important.

trapin
06-24-2011, 10:10 AM
why?

I've used jackstands for years. I've never really heard of someone complaining about them.
Well...now you have. LOL!

I guess I have bad memories from my youth over them. My friend Ron and I had his Dodge Dart up on some when we were pulling his transmission and one of them broke a tooth and failed and the sudden shift in weight made his car fall off the remaining jackstands and crash to the garage floor. Luckily it happened in the middle of the night when no one was underneath it. Ever since then I have had a phobia towards them. Besides...they're all made in China now. Yikes! No thank you.

DartorDemon
06-24-2011, 11:20 AM
Well...now you have. LOL!

I guess I have bad memories from my youth over them. My friend Ron and I had his Dodge Dart up on some when we were pulling his transmission and one of them broke a tooth and failed and the sudden shift in weight made his car fall off the remaining jackstands and crash to the garage floor. Luckily it happened in the middle of the night when no one was underneath it. Ever since then I have had a phobia towards them. Besides...they're all made in China now. Yikes! No thank you.

well then just don't eat them then! :D

DRJDVM's '69
06-24-2011, 11:35 AM
I built some of the wood ones and love them. The great thing is that you do alot with the car at ride height with all 4 wheels loaded... None of the suspension is hanging etc my project has air ride so I ca air it up and down just like if it was sitting on the ground but it's highenough for me to get under it

As for strength.... Even seen a company move a house or raise a house off the foundation? They use stacked wood pillars just like these. If it can support a house it should support a car

novaderrik
06-25-2011, 12:48 AM
i'm a fan of jackstands.. they are the most versatile tool for almost everything that i do.. i've got 5 pairs of stand in different sizes- 2 pair of the smaller 3 ton, a pair of medium sized 4 tons that came with my floor jack, and 2 pairs of 6 tons.. i choose the stand that best fits the needs of what i need to do. the 6 ton stands are more than big enough to get a transmission out from under a car, which is realistically the biggest job i'll ever need to do under a car.. i've also got one of those cheesy welded stamped steel stands with 3 feet that i use for very light duty stuff like putting under an oil pan while the transmission is out or something like that..
but i do have a set of '80's half ton Chevy truck rims that work really well to get a car up in the air about 9" or so with the suspension loaded- i just jack the car up (using my handy custom made 6" jack saddle extension to get more height if necessary..), slide the wheels under the tires with a chunk of 2X10 on top for a platform, and set the car down on it just like all the cribbing pictures above.. makes it possible to do work under the car if i need the suspension loaded for some reason and there was no cost or fabrication necessary beyond cutting the boards.. and when i'm not using them, they stack up in the corner and don't look out of place like a big pile of lumber would in a garage full of car stuff.

protour73
06-25-2011, 03:06 AM
Personally, if the money is available those Race Ramps are the best buy, they are light, strong and very stable. I use jackstands but I'm a big fan of the "cribs". I built the cribs for about $30 in materials. I predrilled before screwing each layer together and I also used construction grade "Liquid Nails"between each board. Depending on the hieght that you build them, you do have to get the car fairly high up in the air to get on the "cribs", which may be the only downside to using them. But, when the car is up on them, there is room do anything you need to do.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Tony_SS
06-25-2011, 03:46 AM
Looks good Scott. That's my plan right there.

Taylor1969
06-26-2011, 08:46 AM
these look great and will definitely be cheaper. Do you have plans for these? What are re dimensions. Etc.?

Thanks,
Chris


Personally, if the money is available those Race Ramps are the best buy, they are light, strong and very stable. I use jackstands but I'm a big fan of the "cribs". I built the cribs for about $30 in materials. I predrilled before screwing each layer together and I also used construction grade "Liquid Nails"between each board. Depending on the hieght that you build them, you do have to get the car fairly high up in the air to get on the "cribs", which may be the only downside to using them. But, when the car is up on them, there is room do anything you need to do.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

protour73
06-26-2011, 09:40 AM
these look great and will definitely be cheaper. Do you have plans for these? What are re dimensions. Etc.?

Thanks,
ChrisChris ... 9 x 14" boards w/ 3 on bottom layer .... 9 x 12" boards w/ the 3 on that layer you can see in the picture. 2 screws diagonally placed on each layer to prevent any racking of the "crib" on any one layer. The 12" width is based on my tire width. If you have wider tires increase that length based on a wider tire.

CarlC
06-26-2011, 01:35 PM
I've used 6ton jackstands with no problems for many years as Karl has, but there's a few golden rules that are non-negotiable when using them.

#1) The jackstands must be placed as far apart as possible.

#2. One jackstand for each corner of the car. When working on just one wheel, if the wheel must be lifted more than 2" off the ground then the whole axle must be supported plumb to earth.

3) If both axles must be raised, the rear end comes up first. This way the jackstand can cradle the rear axle tube and rotate on it. If work needs to be done when the axle is at droop or removed then the car still gets raised the same way but the final jackstand placement occurs after both axles are up.

4) Never, ever, have one set of stands up high, and the others low. The car must be level.

5) If there is a wheel off the car, toss it under the car as an extra safety measure.

6) The jackstand cannot be one of those cheapy types where the supporting surface is flat. The supporting surface must have some sort of cradle/saddle where the axle tube/frame can seat into.

7) Shake the car hard after its set into place.

8) Use a large footprint base jackstand. One with a 6" base is just plain scary unless its being used for a one axle lift. In order for a jackstand to tip over it must rotate. In order to rotate the car must lift up. Draw a line from the edge of the jackstand that is the rotating point to the top/center of the cradle. The larger the base, the longer the line. The longer the line, the more the car has to lift during rotation.

I like the 2" x 4" cradles as well. I'll likely make an interlocking set in the near future. There is nothing wrong with wood as long as it is reasonable condition. A standard White Pine 2" x 2" (really 1-1/2" x 1-1/2") can support 3000 lbs axial to the grain before a crushing failure will occur. The one thing that I don't like about the ones is where the distance between the fore/aft crossbars that surround the tire are close together. I'm guilty of turning the ignition key while the trans is still in gear. That might make the car jump off the cribbing. A strap would help, disconnecting the battery would be better.

nekkidhillbilly
06-26-2011, 01:43 PM
floor jack and my gaurdian angel

ModernMuseum
06-27-2011, 05:13 AM
I usually use jack stands coupled with a floor jack. For example, in the front, I'll raise the car and then lower it on jack stands. I'll leave the jack in place and raise it about another half pump just so that it will catch the car in case something happens, though most of the weight still resides on the jack stands.