Red Bull 1968 Charger AWD Hemi 6 speed

[67fenix]

I Just bought 15 yards of 8.5oz twill weave fiberglass from U.S. Composites for $7.65/yd and a gallon of their epoxy/hardener kit was $71. Seemed like a decent deal to me.

[SS PUNISHER]

Are you trying to make the flares removable or molded in?

[Motorcitydak]

Molded in, my fenders are fiberglass so I'm hoping that if I sand off the gel coat I can add mine on

[SS PUNISHER]

I'd just cut the opening out, space it away from the fender then glass it from there.

[Motorcitydak]

I see that you are saying, I was hoping to instead glue the foam blocks to the fender that I have now, shape it then glass over that with maybe two layers. After that remove the excess fiberglass under the flare and then some more glass on the inside to tie it all together. Using that method tho concerns me about getting too much material in the seam between the old and new

Im plugging away on body work at the moment. First up was getting the drivers door seam right and the door stripped. It had a small amount of damage I would guess sometime pre-stud welder era. However what happened to the door in no way called for the amount of filler on it. They had probably gallons on this one door and when it was all 'done' and horribly painted there were extra body lines in place and added a lot of weight. After all the work I did a little hammer and dolly work to get it close to where it needs to be and a small amount of filler will go back on

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/DSCF3369_zpsujmbnb1o-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3369_zpsujmbnb1o.jpg.html)

Some work was still needed at the tail panel. The drivers quarter cap needed the bottom and part of the side replaced while the passenger side was 95% missing. Also the filler panel from the caps to where the diffuser will go needed to be made. All the stuff you see on the metal is sprayed on white lithium grease to keep any water off the bare stuff. The back of the car is really close to the garage door so when it rains I did not want any problems

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/DSCF3372_zpslwdqosb3-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3372_zpslwdqosb3.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/DSCF3379_zps7wqhnbci-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3379_zps7wqhnbci.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/DSCF3378_zpskne6ik2g-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3378_zpskne6ik2g.jpg.html)

[Cop Magnet]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/DSCF3372_zpslwdqosb3-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3372_zpslwdqosb3.jpg.html)


I see what you did there with the exhaust trumpets. Looks good!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/06/rear_white_03_zps6ldbxcnp-1.jpg (http://s89.photobucket.com/user/manic6969/media/Charger%20Ideas/rear_white_03_zps6ldbxcnp.jpg.html)

[Motorcitydak]

Really love watching your build cop magnet! Can't wait to see more. You can see my exhaust is not exactly straight, I have them clamped between some wood, should have welded them to a piece of angle. ill have to fix that later on

Despite the gap in updates I have been working on the car as much as possible, recently focused on the front fender flares. I really wanted as much of the tire covered as possible. I started out with glueing floral foam blocks onto the sides until I got close to what I was looking for. I first tried gorilla glue which did not work. Ended up using hot glue instead, worked out a lot better. The foam is great to work with as you can sand it with your fingers if needed. Once that was good I gave it a coat of bondo for some more work and so I could get the masking tape to stick

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/DSCF3382_zpsg2wd9nwi-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3382_zpsg2wd9nwi.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/DSCF3386_zpsevzsbwuf-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3386_zpsevzsbwuf.jpg.html)

Then 4 layers of glass, think it was 7.5oz? Used epoxy resin, all stuff from US Composites

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/DSCF3388_zpsdsrcute8-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3388_zpsdsrcute8.jpg.html)

Same deal on the passenger side. First I traced out the top line of the flare then added foam. Once in I cut out cardboard profiles of the drivers side and sawed them into place. Thats another nice thing with the foam, just easily sawed the cardboard up and down until I got them into place

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/20160210_184300_zps62uclgsy-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20160210_184300_zps62uclgsy.jpg.html)

After shaping, bondo and taped up

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/20160214_194740_zpstedrtkof-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20160214_194740_zpstedrtkof.jpg.html)

and another 4 layers of glass

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/20160214_215158_zps6g8lx6wh-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20160214_215158_zps6g8lx6wh.jpg.html)

Next up is the grill and front bumper. Cannot wait to move the car out so I can clean the garage up, really hate the huge mess I have going on right now. Also after nearly 6 months of no progress on the front CV's with the driveshaft shop, I got my stuff back and sent it off to RCV performance. Hoping for a better experience with them

[iadr]

You can see my exhaust is not exactly straight, I have them clamped between some wood, should have welded them to a piece of angle. ill have to fix that later on



On the pipe leading to the high tip, lay a bead or two of weld on the bottom of the pipe, about 6-7" upstream of the tip. Same idea as NASCAR putting camber in a solid axle (done this way in the past, dunno if they still do it this way) or using weld to remove bearing races or valve seats.
Principle is the metal lays on hot, and shrinks as it cools, taking the parent metal with it.

I'll watch what luck you have with CV places. I'm doing sorta the little brother of your drivetrain- Mercruiser 3.7L aluminum 4 stroked to 253cid, Kaase repro Boss429 head, G-Force T5, AMC Eagle RWD/AWD Transfer case. Front diff is Suzuki Sidekick IFS, and spindles are Lexus IS250. I have Suzuki and Lexus axles, so how hard can this be...? Hahaha.

[Motorcitydak]

Thats a great idea on moving that pipe down, thanks a lot. Have you posted your build anywhere? I have to check that out!

[Motorcitydak]

Grill is in place, as mentioned its from a Coronet and also used on the '69 Charger 500

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/20160219_161108_zpsrymwt4vv-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20160219_161108_zpsrymwt4vv.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/20160219_161114_zpshqyd6h4k-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20160219_161114_zpshqyd6h4k.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/20160219_161129_zpskfb3xeo6-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20160219_161129_zpskfb3xeo6.jpg.html)

Working on the front bumper now. When done it will be more of a smooth shape covered with fiberglass epoxy'ed fleece material. Starting off by building an inner bumper for actual protection. It is 1x2 and 2x2. Ill be adding a provision for a front tow point to the center of the 2x2

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/20160220_154859_zpszterjpmf-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20160220_154859_zpszterjpmf.jpg.html)

Wish I could get the whole front end in one shot but the car is near the front of the garage so I can't get any further back

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/20160220_154852_zpsddjmf8ej-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20160220_154852_zpsddjmf8ej.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/20160220_154912_zps66qgog5d-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20160220_154912_zps66qgog5d.jpg.html)

Added more 1x2 for what will be the lower lip, this is 7 inches off the ground. Wish it was lower but it is all I am willing to do, think the front end will look even more weird if it were any taller

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/20160220_171007_zpso027gjfl-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20160220_171007_zpso027gjfl.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/20160220_171013_zpspmrlq2l0-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20160220_171013_zpspmrlq2l0.jpg.html)

I want a lower opening so started working that out. Think I may lower this piece however, right now only have about 2 1/2 inches of height across the top, may look better with more

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/20160220_182212_zpsryvmrimx-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20160220_182212_zpsryvmrimx.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/20160220_182201_zpsi6sawphp-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20160220_182201_zpsi6sawphp.jpg.html)

Just ordered a pair of Rigid Industries Dually LED spot lights that I will build into this as well as some air scoops for the brakes. I like the idea of using glued fleece for this since i can just frame the bumper then stretch the material over it and glue it into place

[Motorcitydak]

Big delays recently in working on this thing but I have been slowly getting after it. The front bumper is currently drying after I stretched some spandex material over it, held in place with small binder clips then coated with epoxy resin. Will have to see how strong it comes out to be, can add more layers of spandex or back with with fiberglass mat. I have stainless mesh that will fill that lower opening after the material is dry. Really like the way it is coming out tho

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/20160413_153859_zpsux25bcyx-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20160413_153859_zpsux25bcyx.jpg.html)

[Motorcitydak]

Hey guys it has been a really long time since I had an update. Very slow work has been going on lately but I have a great excuse, my wife and I welcomed our first child back in June. As most of you know they take up a lot of your time and all of your sleep. I sneak out to the garage during naps when I can. I wanted to throw up a few pics that I took yesterday, it was the first time that the car pulled itself out of the garage and I think it looks awesome. Cannot wait to get more going on it. I have said I want to drive it on my birthday for the last four years or so, that just passed again but one of these days it has to happen right?

Anyway, here it is. Right now I am working on adding material to the front fender flares and giving them mounting locations

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/image2_zpszmphsgop-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/image2_zpszmphsgop.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/image1_zpsz79kwuqp-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/image1_zpsz79kwuqp.jpg.html)

[gschris]

that thing is wild!

[1965gp]

Glad to see progress continue on this.

Kids slow things down but it's well worth it in the end.

[Motorcitydak]

Well.....been a long time here between any work as I have been doing a lot on my house lately. It's nearly done now and I snuck out to the garage door a few hours. After many months with the guys at RCV performance I have the first custom parts in for my front drive setup, the last round of parts should be on the way shortly. All the pieces now carry their part numbers so when you build the same overly complicated car that never leaves the garage, call them up and get the same ones I have!

The pieces on the right are the drive flange and shaft for the passenger side. 930 joints go on the inboard side and I'll be using the factory outer ends. The piece on the left is actually a two piece intermediate shaft. I have a 40mm bearing that will support the end with a 930 joint on its way to the drivers side wheel

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/12/BE66103ABF254462A21DE5515FE782C5_zpsojms-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/BE66103A-BF25-4462-A21D-E5515FE782C5_zpsojmsbwu4.jpg.html)


During the install, I had to open up the frame notch on the passenger side since I underestimated the size. I don't have a pic of the new piece in here but I did close up the hole and now is ready for action. I know nearly all the strength of the frame was lost here but I have a large H member under the car here for lca mounts and a 10 point cage is just above it so it's good to go


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/12/ED86FA3103DE4A9C851379EDC0DA4B88_zpsh2mz-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/ED86FA31-03DE-4A9C-8513-79EDC0DA4B88_zpsh2mz2low.jpg.html)

[meatonastick]

I've been watching this build since about half way through and fell in love the first time I saw it. I know it's been a while since an update, but i really hope this project is still getting love because this is amazing on multiple levels. Thanks for sharing this much, at the very least.

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks meat! You will be happy to know that the car is still slowly moving along and I do have more progress coming shortly. There will be more parts thrown at it and expect to see something new in around a week. Soon enough I will be onto the long and boring process of body work....

[Motorcitydak]

Been a long time.....I'm still doing work on this car as I can but of course is always too slow. I did have an update ready a month or so ago but couldn't get a video to upload. Anyway I am happy to say that the drivetrain is now complete! I put in the cv shafts that I got made and finally had the system spinning to start to break in the front diff.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/06/8C3C992B8D094A5ABF55F5F5FFF4F6BA_zpsvh6i-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/8C3C992B-8D09-4A5A-BF55-F5F5FFF4F6BA_zpsvh6ioii7.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/06/B802502985C040A2A5EB20BAC08E9958_zpsogiz-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/B8025029-85C0-40A2-A5EB-20BAC08E9958_zpsogiz0wup.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/06/24D2FCBB638D4B4789F559763C76A19D_zpswpmc-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/24D2FCBB-638D-4B47-89F5-59763C76A19D_zpswpmcklqp.jpg.html)

More recently I've been putting in the headlights. They came from a 1995 525i, unfortunately the one lens was broken and was holding water which damaged the silver coating on the aluminum piece that now looks white. I need to find another lens and will try some chrome wrap material on the aluminum. Also have a little rust on the one support that needs to be fixed. I do like the way they came out tho

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/06/460CF682E96F4A7687CDB8E58D5F7C47_zpsvlbr-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/460CF682-E96F-4A76-87CD-B8E58D5F7C47_zpsvlbrptwn.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/06/A158E148BB7A4EF0A43F0C4B20983659_zpsmqal-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/A158E148-BB7A-4EF0-A43F-0C4B20983659_zpsmqalgj4e.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/06/DB217C51981141A9A686952E829A47A0_zpsjnzb-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DB217C51-9811-41A9-A686-952E829A47A0_zpsjnzbgsow.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/06/A2B042720C944443977B098533BAC069_zps6qvu-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/A2B04272-0C94-4443-977B-098533BAC069_zps6qvuom6p.jpg.html)

[JpRngr]

I remember following this quite some time ago and just stumbled on this post. Do you have pics available somewhere besides Photobucket? Not showing up here and tried looking on PB, but they're all F'd up now with their new business killing policies.

Corey

[SS PUNISHER]

I remember following this quite some time ago and just stumbled on this post. Do you have pics available somewhere besides Photobucket? Not showing up here and tried looking on PB, but they're all F'd up now with their new business killing policies.

Corey

Yeah I can't see them now either ��

[ryeguy2006a]

The fix for those with older builds like some that I have out there is to add "~original" minus the quotes in between the end of the IMG code like below .jpg~original[/IMG]


Been a long time.....I'm still doing work on this car as I can but of course is always too slow. I did have an update ready a month or so ago but couldn't get a video to upload. Anyway I am happy to say that the drivetrain is now complete! I put in the cv shafts that I got made and finally had the system spinning to start to break in the front diff.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/8C3C992B8D094A5ABF55F5F5FFF4F6BA_zpsvh6i-1.jpg~original (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/8C3C992B-8D09-4A5A-BF55-F5F5FFF4F6BA_zpsvh6ioii7.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/B802502985C040A2A5EB20BAC08E9958_zpsogiz-1.jpg~original (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/B8025029-85C0-40A2-A5EB-20BAC08E9958_zpsogiz0wup.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/24D2FCBB638D4B4789F559763C76A19D_zpswpmc-1.jpg~original (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/24D2FCBB-638D-4B47-89F5-59763C76A19D_zpswpmcklqp.jpg.html)

More recently I've been putting in the headlights. They came from a 1995 525i, unfortunately the one lens was broken and was holding water which damaged the silver coating on the aluminum piece that now looks white. I need to find another lens and will try some chrome wrap material on the aluminum. Also have a little rust on the one support that needs to be fixed. I do like the way they came out tho

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/460CF682E96F4A7687CDB8E58D5F7C47_zpsvlbr-1.jpg~original (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/460CF682-E96F-4A76-87CD-B8E58D5F7C47_zpsvlbrptwn.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/A158E148BB7A4EF0A43F0C4B20983659_zpsmqal-1.jpg~original (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/A158E148-BB7A-4EF0-A43F-0C4B20983659_zpsmqalgj4e.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/DB217C51981141A9A686952E829A47A0_zpsjnzb-1.jpg~original (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DB217C51-9811-41A9-A686-952E829A47A0_zpsjnzbgsow.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/12/A2B042720C944443977B098533BAC069_zps6qvu-1.jpg~original (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/A2B04272-0C94-4443-977B-098533BAC069_zps6qvuom6p.jpg.html)

[Gojeep]

I can still see them all but installed a Chrome browser extension for it. Called Photobucket hotlink fix. Works for all threads in any forum.

[Motorcitydak]

Well now that's annoying! I had no idea all the pictures were gone! The only other place I have them right now is in a hard drive. I'll see if I can do something there to fix it or I guess I might have to start all over again. If anyone knows how I can fix this, it would be very helpful.

For a little bit of progress, we moved back to Michigan and got into a new house that finally has something sensible, a 2400 heated work shop! The charger just moved in early this week and now we have some room to stretch out! I'm trying to get it ready for paint in the spring. I think right now it just needs some body work, few more lights and wiring. Also I'm looking into using the Racepak IQ3SL for my dash, any input on it would be great

[JayinMI]

Why the hell would you come back here from SC? lol...I want to move to NC, or someplace in that area. I hate it here.
But at least we don't require emissions testing or front license plates.

Jay

[Gojeep]

The fix for those with older builds like some that I have out there is to add "~original" minus the quotes in between the end of the IMG code like below .jpg~original[/IMG]

He shows you how to fix it above if you can still edit the posts.

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks ryeguy! I'll have to start going thru and adding that to everything. Jay, it was allergies and family that brought us back here, just in time for the winter too! Heard we already got more snow than all of last year.....

[brawls43]

Awesome tip for that chrome extension! thanks!

[frojoe]

I can still see them all but installed a Chrome browser extension for it. Called Photobucket hotlink fix. Works for all threads in any forum.


Awesome tip for that chrome extension! thanks!

Yeah, this was the saving grace for all the Photobucket BS.. it's brought us back from the stone age and revived all the epic build threads out there. And extensions available for Firefox as well. Not sure about for Safari on a Mac.

[Motorcitydak]

If I alter the image code, will the guys using that extension still be able to see them?

[Gojeep]

If I alter the image code, will the guys using that extension still be able to see them?

Yes as I can see where it was done above as an example.

[injcted]

Any updates?

[Motorcitydak]

I've still been slowly working on the car just hasn't been much to show. Mostly really boring body work lately. When I made the front fender flares I really didn't get them as smooth as I sound have so they have been a lot of work. I also added some aerocatches to the hood and truck lid as well as the stainless mesh to the hole I cut in the tail panel. Then I also managed to turn my shop into a disaster, I've been building a horse barn and at the end of the day I just drop stuff wherever and get back in the house. Looks like this whole winter I'll just be doing more body work and try to be ready for paint in the spring

Here is where I am right now

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/11/953D35BAED504FE78E4D3980FFC3D4FE_zpss9io-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/953D35BA-ED50-4FE7-8E4D-3980FFC3D4FE_zpss9io1k4f.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/11/851ED3AA065C4C1AB1224F27244E5C20_zpsv3ms-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/851ED3AA-065C-4C1A-B122-4F27244E5C20_zpsv3msylya.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/11/D4EB48050E42452E89F031E65B6840F5_zpsye3k-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/D4EB4805-0E42-452E-89F0-31E65B6840F5_zpsye3krgwm.jpg.html)

It looks more odd in the pictures with the front fenders compared to the rear stock quarters but I think I'll start messing around with the rears soon to make them match a little better

[Bowtie racing]

Keep up the good work!

[User-C3]

whelp there's a charger lost forever. :hand:

[injcted]

I really like the rear tail panel and rear bumper! Great work!!!!!

[Motorcitydak]

Sorry if you don't like it User, maybe this isn't the forum for you. Most of us don't see this metal as sacred and best left how the factory did things. They made about 100,000 of these cars, plenty to go around and stock is really boring and not even safe on today's roads and traffic patterns

Thanks injcted! I wish I could have gotten the rear end down more. The rear diffuser might end up looking a little odd or just won't be functional being to high off the ground. I need to figure out what to do with the chrome bumper. Not sure if I can sand it down some and maybe spray it with plastic? But nothing on the car will be chrome so that still needs some attention



So I started messing around with the rears and the thought of adding flares, I want to know what you guys think here. I've got 18x10s with 315/30s and they do fit in tf stock wheel wells. With the front fenders flared like they are, I just don't know if I like the back being stock. The tire fits with 1.5 inches to the outside on the rear quarter and I can run my fingers on the inside of the lip. I really don't need to add more coverage on the top but I do like being able to shroud the rest of the tire to keep it out of the air flow.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/12/C7090F70C6044BADB24FB6A5F25B0354_zpsiqvw-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/C7090F70-C604-4BAD-B24F-B6A5F25B0354_zpsiqvwbbur.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/12/24AF9BA3D7C548BD9E2BF1194AF5D7FB_zps9ph2-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/24AF9BA3-D7C5-48BD-9E2B-F1194AF5D7FB_zps9ph2g3im.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/12/B47B08814395483DB7FAA9F67E341099_zpsky33-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/B47B0881-4395-483D-B7FA-A9F67E341099_zpsky33a86n.jpg.html)

If I wanted to push the wheels out more, I'd need a new axle since I really don't like wheels with huge lips and I'm already spaced out as much as I want to go. Here I started messing around and added 1/2 inch of coverage at the top then covered the rest of the tire as much as possible. Went for more of a tear drop shape to sort of match the front end.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/12/E9DD49DD53C3415EB2C55CD1193C106B_zpsirbt-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/E9DD49DD-53C3-415E-B2C5-5CD1193C106B_zpsirbtbdzr.jpg.html)

Looking at this one more, I think the rear of the flare should extend down more to match the front

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/12/82B060F6D6484AF488DCB6C50033EC17_zpsnvog-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/82B060F6-D648-4AF4-88DC-B6C50033EC17_zpsnvogvdku.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/12/37B205D2997B419483227D06B27A1908_zpsopmr-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/37B205D2-997B-4194-8322-7D06B27A1908_zpsopmrio66.jpg.html)

To build it I could either do fiberglass or steel but both have down sides. I think th fiberglass would cost more and possibly take more time. Plus I'd either have to bond it to the metal and hope it doesn't crack or make it bolt on. Steel might be faster but I've never tried to shape metal like this and if I weld it to the quarter, I've already coated the inside (I think it was with some bed liner spray?) of it and would have to be very careful with the heat to not start a fire or something. I'm also not sure if I could get back in there to apply new coatings to keep it all protected.

[rat_rod_russell]

As an AWD freak I can't wait to see how this works out. I'm kicking around an idea with a R35 Gen GTR trans-axle on a car so any AWD project is inspiration to me. Keep up the momentum while you have it!

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks a lot Russell, I'll try to keep up the work as best I can also keep the updates coming. I looked into a lot of other cars AWD systems and I found what worked best for this application. Many others will mount the front diff to the engine and dictate everything's location which I didn't like


I've been moving forward on the steel wheel well flares and followed what I had laid out in cardboard

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/01/3755BFA2CE9D4652A978DD924893E96B_zpsn1dz-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/3755BFA2-CE9D-4652-A978-DD924893E96B_zpsn1dzzkye.jpg.html)

Laid out like that I can't say I was happy with what I ended up with. There was too much coverage and I'm not going to push the rear wheels out any further, so the passenger side got a different approach. It has less coverage this time, actually there is no extra coverage from the top of the stock quarter. All I did was then run my 1/4 inch rod straight down using the tire as my reference. Then some 1/8 rod got bent around the quarter where the sheet metal will meet it

Here the front of the flare is done and you can see how I made my templates for the steel, just masking tape that I then cut and put into a piece of 18ga steel

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/01/311CC993BDDC48EAB1909E00205DCAD5_zpsuxxs-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/311CC993-BDDC-48EA-B190-9E00205DCAD5_zpsuxxswdqp.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/01/C646E71A31864BC79AD3C7F4E029062E_zpsqsys-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/C646E71A-3186-4BC7-9AD3-C7F4E029062E_zpsqsyshbxb.jpg.html)

And here are some terribly lit pics of the passenger side

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/01/2E4C32CBA3F14FE5BF93A3F62E2B6536_zpszvho-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/2E4C32CB-A3F1-4FE5-BF93-A3F62E2B6536_zpszvhogrhj.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/01/B0E5902B6AFF4923916A2CD6C046243D_zpsiepo-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/B0E5902B-6AFF-4923-916A-2CD6C046243D_zpsieponmnu.jpg.html)

Lastly the drivers side got cleaned back up before I put the 1/4 bent rod in place. I still need to template the other side so I can transfer my lines onto the quarter

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/01/6D607D6E61FB43A0967CB25F1844E951_zpsuii7-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/6D607D6E-61FB-43A0-967C-B25F1844E951_zpsuii7cgjw.jpg.html)

[Motorcitydak]

Got some more work done on the rear wheel wells, really trying to get this thing into primer soon.

After I removed the first attempt at a flare frame, I templated the passenger side and transferred the outline to the drivers side and stuck on some 1/8 rod

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/01/1E3C950A5F7746978354650969C4C9EA_zpstiwc-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/1E3C950A-5F77-4697-8354-650969C4C9EA_zpstiwctayr.jpg.html)

After I exactly centered the axle under the car, I used the depth probe of a caliper to exactly space my 1/4 rod around the tire. Since I had these both sides exactly the same, I was able to use the same tape template to cut out the steel sheet for this side as well. Still have to fill in all the seams but it is nearly complete

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/01/5B049B098B1A4CC7A24458CAA389EE6F_zpsfqme-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/5B049B09-8B1A-4CC7-A244-58CAA389EE6F_zpsfqmehllq.jpg.html)

Just have a little piece to throw in on the front and weld it all solid

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/01/5527C4622779426CAF9704F2B38C623F_zpso0gb-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/5527C462-2779-426C-AF97-04F2B38C623F_zpso0gbyrko.jpg.html)

It should be noted that in the pics, the car is lifted off the ground so I can get to things easier. On the floor the tires tuck into the wheel well much more than this. Once done, I have some paint to strip in some hard to reach areas of the door and trunk frames, do some body work on thread front end and maybe start getting the interior further along then I think it's about time to start squirting this thing. You guys should love the color in wanting to use!

[FormTA]

I know you are almost done and not to poo poo your vision but give this some thought. Maybe slice the quarter and pull it out some so the flairs don't look "stuck on" The fairs could be much smaller then.

[Motorcitydak]

No worries and I completely agree with your thoughts. All I really wanted to do was to cover the tires as much as I could. The factory wheel opening are a lot bigger than I wanted. I'm guessing they did it more for their styling and I'm sure it didn't hurt when guys were putting 33 inch drag slicks on em. The first thoughts were to just add sheet metal right into the inside of the well either flush with the top of the lip or maybe just sticking out. Then mold that into the quarter, just as you mentioned. Only difference is that way I wouldn't mess with the inner wheel well. Keeping that stock opening shape however kept the tire coverage too far away for my liking. This shape and approach better covers the tire from airflow and also more closely matches what I did on the front end. Chevy and Ford mostly seemed to have more of a rounded wheel well opening and I think makes it easier to extend without changing the shape too much.

[76TA]

:pat:

[Motorcitydak]

Sorry you don't like it 76, but I want those tires covered.

The areas around the aerocatches on the trunk lid needed to be reinforced since now there was just flat sheet metal failing to do the job of holding the trunk lid securely closed. A few small holes got poked in the top and bottom. Some 1/8 rod was then welded to the top and bottom

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/02/4CF7BB4813D94B5DAC6E86F8774D627A_zpsbvny-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/4CF7BB48-13D9-4B5D-AC6E-86F8774D627A_zpsbvny3ylt.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/02/9B78194A6CD64C1498DCAD019ED7472F_zpszw7y-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/9B78194A-6CD6-4C14-98DC-AD019ED7472F_zpszw7yyprf.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/02/EE4A1E2D5A634CFC8B00C535E99B3FE5_zpsl2iq-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/EE4A1E2D-5A63-4CFC-8B00-C535E99B3FE5_zpsl2iqyihh.jpg.html)

Then smoothed out. I think I'll bring the lid somewhere to get blasted on the bottom side, no idea how else I could strip that thing without using chemicals which I don't want to use

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/02/E0FC032276D1426DAC9AEDF829EED5CA_zps0e7r-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/E0FC0322-76D1-426D-AC9A-EDF829EED5CA_zps0e7r2rd0.jpg.html)

The welds on the flares got sanded smooth too. It's worth adding that I still have not trimmed the bottom to where they will be. I'll also use some all metal filler to smooth the transition from the quarter to the flare.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/02/FC08C4646F394E7291D5AD6053FA7E96_zpsywue-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/FC08C464-6F39-4E72-91D5-AD6053FA7E96_zpsywuehyo1.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/02/F987039F1FC044C5884A8493C1536D73_zpsttrq-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/F987039F-1FC0-44C5-884A-8493C1536D73_zpsttrq77eu.jpg.html)

[68Formula]

I see where you're trying to go, but it's not working. It's way too low on the body lines, coming in flush at the top looks out of place, and the edges need to start tapering into the body lines. Something more like this: 161184

[Motorcitydak]

I saw that car and of course it looks really good! I would try to build something like that except that I like how the front end looks that I have already. I tried to make it similar on the rear, didn't want to build to different kinds of flares. I'm still not opposed to trying again tho. I agree tho that it does look horrible in the pictures, I really don't like how it looks in the ones I've shown. It's not too bad in real life tho. I have some other things to work on with the car and am going to keep mulling this one over. Honestly I was trying to cover the tires with the smallest flare I could do, making it hopefully minimally noticable. Just with how the front end is, the rear needs something

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/02/4E147C11C00F4CBC89C7673B6E52B157_zps7b68-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/4E147C11-C00F-4CBC-89C7-673B6E52B157_zps7b68vxpk.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/02/110B3AF8C64C41EA979EC3AD6D9DCAF1_zpsjfcd-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/110B3AF8-C64C-41EA-979E-C3AD6D9DCAF1_zpsjfcdtlpc.jpg.html)

This one I don't think looks too bad at all

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/02/A16769890BEE49D1AFDC388E65A6FD70_zpstjte-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/A1676989-0BEE-49D1-AFDC-388E65A6FD70_zpstjteqgz7.jpg.html)

[JayinMI]

I saw that car and of course it looks really good! I would try to build something like that except that I like how the front end looks that I have already. I tried to make it similar on the rear, didn't want to build to different kinds of flares. I'm still not opposed to trying again tho. I agree tho that it does look horrible in the pictures, I really don't like how it looks in the ones I've shown. It's not too bad in real life tho. I have some other things to work on with the car and am going to keep mulling this one over. Honestly I was trying to cover the tires with the smallest flare I could do, making it hopefully minimally noticable. Just with how the front end is, the rear needs something

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/02/110B3AF8C64C41EA979EC3AD6D9DCAF1_zpsjfcd-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/110B3AF8-C64C-41EA-979E-C3AD6D9DCAF1_zpsjfcdtlpc.jpg.html)



It kinda reminds me of those filters on Instagram where people swap faces with someone with a small face. I like the front, but the rear just looks out of place. It definitely needs to come up higher and be a little bigger.

If you're saying "It doesn't look too bad in real life," it sounds like you aren't satisfied with it either. In the end, it's your car, but you've put so much work into this thing so far, might as well go all the way until you're really happy with it.

Jay

[dhutton]

Might be useful to hire a rendering artist to develop a cohesive solution that flows front to rear.

Don

[1sikride]

Ugh....

[digitalsolo]

Okay, here's my 0.02 on this.

First off, I like your build and ideas, but I feel like some of the style execution just feels a little "off". Your front widebody has a bit of a Trans Am (race series, not Pontiac) vibe, maybe a little bit of DTM/touring car box fender look. That's a good thing. Personally I'd square it off a little more as your rounded lines are a bit of contrast to the Chargers slightly more angular front, but I think it could work.

The rear is just out of scale. It looks sort of like the spats on a Trans Am (Pontiac, not race series), but not quite "right" there either. If you mimic the front design to the rear, I feel like it could flow a lot nicer. Again, if I was designing it (I'm not, it's your car, do as you wish) I'd square the fronts off a little on the top with a little ledge a la E30 M3, then mirror it on the rear, or at the least mirror the current front look on the rear.

Anyway, do as you wish, just throwing some constructive criticism and my unrequested opinion, haha. I have round tail lights on a '65 Mustang, so I hear plenty of unasked for opinions on how terrible a human being I am for desecrating things myself, LOL.

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks for the comments folks. I do like how the front end came out in one shot and figured I could pull that off in the rear, unfortunately that didn't happen even with round two. Hopefully third time will be the charm. Don, I had thought about having a rendering done before and this seems like a good reason to follow thru. I'll start shopping around and see what someone with don't creative skills can do. Thankfully with the way I built these flares, they will not be difficult to remove. Start tuned tho, I have more progress coming and will revise this rear end

[Motorcitydak]

Please let me know of any contacts you guys have for renderings. Once we get the back end figured out, I'll probably have to push the rear wheels out to fill them out but o well. I'll need custom wheels or a wider rear axle

[dhutton]

Please let me know of any contacts you guys have for renderings. Once we get the back end figured out, I'll probably have to push the rear wheels out to fill them out but o well. I'll need custom wheels or a wider rear axle

This forum member does renderings:

https://www.pro-touring.com/members/28279-SRD-art

Don

[cornfedbill]

This forum member does renderings:

https://www.pro-touring.com/members/28279-SRD-art

Don

I second that one. Ben at SRD Art is good.

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks guys, sent him a pm Saturday and waiting to hear

[SRD art]

Hey Steve, thanks for the opportunity to work with you on this super cool and unique build. I'm looking forward to it!

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks Ben, I'm really looking forward to this!

To keep progress going, I started doing some interior work. The center console and door panels can get made up while we figure out the exterior design. Started with the console, what I'd like is a panel over the dog house, cup holders big enough for a 30oz mug and a comfortable arm rest. Got the skeleton started with some steel bar, I'd like to see this painted body color with the sheet panels covered with some foam backed suede or something. If course still need to add the cup holders and arm rest

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/02/C942A1B1CC10415AAAA374208AEC8F55_zps3xba-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/C942A1B1-CC10-415A-AAA3-74208AEC8F55_zps3xbabq6x.jpg.html)

[SRD art]

Hey Don and Bill- Thanks for the shout out! When a referral turns into work for me I like to pay back those that support my work with either a free T-shirt or a $25 credit towards artwork services, so PM sent, let me know, and thanks again! Bill I hit you up on FB. :D

Sorry to slightly hijack the thread Steve, back to our regular program of insanely cool Charger builds. ;)

[titan460]

I commend you on your work and efforts so far. I really like some of the ideas and ingenuity you've displayed in this build. You obviously have a great passion for this car and I hope the final product is everything you want it to be. I have a lot of skill as a mechanic and interest in fabrication. I have zero skill in fabrication, at all. I have trolled this site for many years and seen a lot of projects come together. The people here seem to really care about other's projects and have tons of knowledge to share. Please take advantage of any advice or information they share.

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks a lot Titan, I appreciate any feedback as it is always helpful, good or bad. I think it's fair to say this car has come way too far to not get on the road some day soon (ish). I was able to really commit to building it the way a wanted about six years ago when I bought my lotus. That filled my needs for a fun car to drive and hit the tracks with. That said I could take my time here and make just what I saw in my head. I also want to stress I am not rich or well off by any measure, I'm fact my income is pretty much the national average. I don't want anyone seeing this to think that or that they could not accomplish something similar or even cooler!

As for the 'skills', it's all just been trial and error. I took my Xmas money at 17, bought a cheap welder from Sears and made what can only be said are the worst welds in the world. All this time tho I've kept two things in mind; no one cares as much as you do about whatever you are doing and the only reason something doesn't exist in this awesome world is that no one has made it yet. There are no limits here any more, just things that are really hard or just haven't been figured out yet.

If I was starting from day 0 right now, I would more than likely be making this car all electric and still AWD. Yes it would be hard and expensive but very fun and different while acknowledging the future.

I got started in modified cars with my 4x4 Dakota and spent way too much time on pirate 4x4. Those guys will be ruthless on hack stuff if you don't listen to sound advice. However there is no idea too crazy if it is being done properly as it does bring but expand the hobby. I then carried that world over to this car. RED has been done to death. It would never stand out but add some more creativity and you'll have a true one off that will get others minds going.

Keep trolling this and other sites, you will gain from everything you see. Also if you can start to pick up whatever tools you can accommodate and just start using them. It doesn't matter what you make, just build something and then next time try to top it. Good luck and remember we are all here to help each other

[Motorcitydak]

Still plugging away at the center console right now. I want to try to fit two cup holders in here. Ideally two big enough for these new 30oz tumblers everyone has. I also have a cool idea for mounting a radio in here, that should come out pretty cool. The longer I'm building this car, the more nicer things I want on it. At first I had not planned for any audio, then starting thinking maybe just an iPod connected to an amp and speakers hense the lack of space saved for a regular head unit. Well, times have changed and so must the plans. Anyway here is the latest work where I've been adding an arm rest that will have a hinged lid and the pan for all my car needs, mostly sunglasses and snacks


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/02/011D5EE31C0A48F79C00CEA74DDDC307_zpslnfi-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/011D5EE3-1C0A-48F7-9C00-CEA74DDDC307_zpslnfike9h.jpg.html)


The pan will mount flush with the top of the upper bar giving me about a half inch under it to run some wires and things to the back. If you guys know of a good way to latch the front of the cover, let me know. I was thinking maybe just a magnet? But I have some electronics not too far away, not sure if they will cause any issues

[Motorcitydak]

As promised, the flares are gone. The new look of the vast will hopefully come to digital life soon and that will for sure include wheels pushed out of the current quarters. To prep for that, some surgery has been performed to allow them to leave their stock homes and see the outside while still allowing three inches of up travel.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/04/9F691BF7CD1C400F8F421E01B9BF3A7E_zpsfenc-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/9F691BF7-CD1C-400F-8F42-1E01B9BF3A7E_zpsfencleso.jpg.html)


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/04/6546F6E474F845FB9543A8C5F48AEE3E_zpslp31-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/6546F6E4-74F8-45FB-9543-A8C5F48AEE3E_zpslp31lmus.jpg.html)

[digitalsolo]

Cool beans! Looking forward to seeing what you come up with for the new version.

[68Formula]

As promised, the flares are gone.

https://giphy.com/gifs/hallelujah-church-choir-PRQ6McRJQ4vnO

[Motorcitydak]

https://giphy.com/gifs/hallelujah-church-choir-PRQ6McRJQ4vnO

Haha I'm glad you and the choir approve! Hope you can use that gif for the next iteration as well

[FormTA]

Now this is what I envision when I think of wheel flares on a charger.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/04/40774606433_2d650a240f_o-1.jpg

[dhutton]

Now this is what I envision when I think of wheel flares on a charger.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/04/40774606433_2d650a240f_o-1.jpg

I prefer the wide body look over flares on a car like the Charger. Sort of like what I did with my 69 Camaro. Roughly 1.5” stretch.

Apologies to the OP for the blatant hijack.

Looking forward to seeing what Ben comes up with.

Don

[FormTA]

That was my suggestion a few post back but if he wants to have flares these look better IMO.

Camaro looks great though.

[Bowtie racing]

Any updates?

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks for thinking of the build and checking in bowtie. There actually has been a lot of work going on with the car recently but nothing is ready to be shared just yet. We are still working out the finer details of the rendering. Good news tho is that Ben really nailed it on the flares. I'm currently working on getting the new rear ones built. The front fiberglass ones have been cut off because those will be much different (and better) now. What I want to do with this thread is post up the rendering once it's done then show what I've built and let you all see it then. I will say that what he came up with looks way better than what I built before and even better than the charger Mopar built. It adds a lot to the lines of the car and looks like a bruiser now.

Updates should be coming shortly as I have plans for the car. If anyone is coming to the Woodward cruise in the Detroit area in early August, I have plans to have this car make its first public appearance at the roadkill nights event Saturday the 10th at their event at the M1 concourse. It will still be bare metal and fiberglass but it's what has to motivated to get stuff done on it and keep it going. I'm hoping to update this thread before then

[dhutton]

Thanks for thinking of the build and checking in bowtie. There actually has been a lot of work going on with the car recently but nothing is ready to be shared just yet. We are still working out the finer details of the rendering. Good news tho is that Ben really nailed it on the flares. I'm currently working on getting the new rear ones built. The front fiberglass ones have been cut off because those will be much different (and better) now. What I want to do with this thread is post up the rendering once it's done then show what I've built and let you all see it then. I will say that what he came up with looks way better than what I built before and even better than the charger Mopar built. It adds a lot to the lines of the car and looks like a bruiser now.

Updates should be coming shortly as I have plans for the car. If anyone is coming to the Woodward cruise in the Detroit area in early August, I have plans to have this car make its first public appearance at the roadkill nights event Saturday the 10th at their event at the M1 concourse. It will still be bare metal and fiberglass but it's what has to motivated to get stuff done on it and keep it going. I'm hoping to update this thread before then

Awesome. Looking forward to seeing the rendering and car.

Don

[ryeguy2006a]

Awesome. Looking forward to seeing the rendering and car.

Don

x2, this is definitely an inspiring build.

[Motorcitydak]

What are you guys using to host pictures now? Since photobucket now wants a monthly fee, I need to find a new free place to put mine. I have Google photos but the best it does that I can figure out is to put a link in a reply that has to be clicked on. I'll add that in very bad with computers so the easier the process the better

[JayinMI]

What are you guys using to host pictures now? Since photobucket now wants a monthly fee, I need to find a new free place to put mine. I have Google photos but the best it does that I can figure out is to put a link in a reply that has to be clicked on. I'll add that in very bad with computers so the easier the process the better

Since the Photobucket debacle started, I switched to Flickr. But I wouldn't say it's intuitive.
It includes your name when you "share" so I usually have to edit that out. There are probably better choices,
but I have hundreds of pics on there now, so I'm committed. lol


Jay

[ryeguy2006a]

Since the Photobucket debacle started, I switched to Flickr. But I wouldn't say it's intuitive.
It includes your name when you "share" so I usually have to edit that out. There are probably better choices,
but I have hundreds of pics on there now, so I'm committed. lol
Jay

I'm in the same boat, and they also started an annual fee now if you host over 1000 images. I want to say it was something like $50 a year, so not awful but still something to consider.

[Motorcitydak]

Here is the finished product guys! I'm still plugging away at the work best I can. Stay tuned for more updates!

[SRD art]

We're all looking forward to seeing more metal work Steve!! :D Here's a little crisper version for ya, the fb ones get a little fuzzy when you repost them elsewhere for some reason...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/6G5xwJn-1.jpg

[jlcustomz]

Steve, guess I hadn't seen this thread since before the widebody sheet metal work started. There are different ways & opinions on how to do a widebody & the best looking ones take far more sheet metal work.
I think with many classic car designs, keeping the factory types of fender lips and making the sheet metal expand outward as gently as possible is the best appearance.
The NRE maximus shapes were a little inspiration for my personal widebody project which utilizes a 69 charger upper quarter panel portion.
https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&authuser=0&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1366&bih=623&ei=DsEaXcWjCaSt5wLLxYyICg&q=maximus+69+charger&oq=maximus+69+charger&gs_l=img.12...3414.20683..22828...0.0..0.70.1165.2 0......0....1..gws-wiz-img.....0..35i39j0j0i8i30j0i5i30j0i24.T9iGgDFiayg# imgrc=jG4wlmG4qP90vM:

While I personally like the more rounded over factory fender look, the additional lines in Ben's version grew on me fast. They would standout better from other widebody charger projects & give a little less subtle appearance. I think as long as the new curved portions have a few degrees of slope to the tops where they meet back up with the body (rather than flat) & just a hint of curve to their upper line also , it should look pretty good. This detail shows up better in the line drawings than in the full color rendering.
Ain't renderings cool.:git:
Here's a link to my widebody. Best pics are on page 10. I can give more info to how I made the shapes if you'd like. Still need to planish out smoother before I can weld mine in place & bodywork
.https://gbodyforum.com/threads/el-camino-rear-widebody-raised-rear-quarters.66438/page-10

[cornfedbill]

Nice design. It all blends well and also stands out.

I love the graphics too.

[jaybee]

Great car, I'm not sure how I've missed this project up to this point. I love that you started out in a tent!

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks guys, Ben and I are really happy with the way it came out. Jlcustoms, we explored just stretching the quarters out to cover the wheels but it just wasn't the look we wanted. I'm not wanting this car to be mistaken for stock by any means. This design gives it a mean, modified look that we really like.

Jaybee, stay tuned I have more good stuff to come. I sort of forgot about how this thing started off in a dirt floor tent! A few moves later, it finally gets to live in a proper work shop

[cornfedbill]

I'm not wanting this car to be mistaken for stock by any means. This design gives it a mean, modified look that we really like.

Not to worry. Nobody will think it is stock now.

[jlcustomz]

Steve, I'm with ya on not wanting to be mistaken for stock. You see some cars built with hundreds to over a thousand hours of bodywork & to the unknowing person, could be a stock body.
I prefer something that will scare small children as their pretty moms ignore them looking at it.:naughty:

[Motorcitydak]

jl I have for sure seen cars like you talk about. No doubt tons of work to get them where they are and unless you known the cars well, its hard to tell they are different. I've always liked to have cars that people understand are special even if they know nothing about cars.

I have finally figured out how to keep you all updated on my progress, so sit back and enjoy! I'll be having a good bit of progress on this thing in the coming weeks

After a lot of careful studying of the wire layout Ben did for my car, I got the lines roughed out in 1/4 metal rods. This was actually my second attempt at them. The first was a fail due to not supporting the rods like I did here. I got a much of the sheet metal attached only to realize that my lines got pushed all around and looked horrible.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/qgPNxx2-1.jpg

The top part of this flare is meant to closely follow the top portion of the quarter panel. My first layout had more of steep angle which did not look right or match the rendering
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/YgHEcbl-1.jpg

Passenger side done to match
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/g9bqafz-1.jpg

Current progress on the drivers side. I will say that I am very happy with the work that the Harbor Freight english wheel is able to do. I can get a nice gentle curve in these panels very quickly. It has not even smashed one of my fingers into hamburger yet!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/Ms1guRn-1.jpg

[jlcustomz]

I got that HF wheel too, need help rolling my entire pass side quarter panel assembly through it to smooth the shrinking/stretching walnuts I did to the factory metal. I made a long reach planishing hammer that could be hand held. it did ok on small samples, but seemed to do more harm than good on smoothing out my quarter. May try to make different heads for it.
I'd say the drivers side shapes look pretty good. Just wondering your process here. Is the wire frame & original fenders all staying or is all this to make a final all sheet metal cap over or something in between?
I made a wood buck template for mine to fit the metal against. But I was a wood worker before a metal worker.
You are making me want to try harder to get off my lazy butt & get back to work on mine.

[Motorcitydak]

Well then get to work!! I checked out your build, that is a really cool and creative think you have going there. I wonder which one of us will get some color our car first?!

My first attempt, I made that long piece of sheet metal that goes front to back over the wheel well in one piece. At 85 inches long and ten high, it is very difficult to work by myself. Second go around I just cut it at the top of the well. That small seam will be easy to blend between two pieces and make my life a lot easier.

Initially I wanted to remove a lot of the stock quarter. After my first attempt, I had to brace my wires to that metal. With the way it is going now that metal will just have to stay. I've had to let my obsession with making everything as light as possible go slightly and this is one example. Once complete, I want to drill a few holes in the factory quarter and go to town on the cavity with a few cans of Eastwoods inside frame coating. I have already been painting the back sides of the new metal with primer and undercoating as well. Then Ill leave some small holes at the lowest spots to allow condensation out

[nickcornilsen]

Perhaps consider a cavity wax when you've sealed up that volume and drilled holes, and skip the undercoating. Undercoating tends to be a little porous and traps moisture.

[dhutton]

Perhaps consider a cavity wax when you've sealed up that volume and drilled holes, and skip the undercoating. Undercoating tends to be a little porous and traps moisture.

X2

Don

[speedfreakcobra]

Hey steve, very nice build and out of the box thinking. Its nice to know that guys on here support this kind of thing. I have a very similar build myself. Im just a few steps behind you. I found your your thread last week and laughed at how similar are builds are. Im following you closely because you motivate the crap out of me. Keep up the stellar work.

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks for the heads up on the cavity wax! Looks like a good product for my application, think it will be the way to go

Welcome to the board speed freak! If we have similar builds, I'm sure we all would like to see it and hear more. Let me know if I can be of any help. You will find lots of knowledge and help on this forum. I just wrapped up for the night, but I will have all the metal on the rear quarters be the end of this weekend. I'll get an update posted soon after

[Motorcitydak]

If this helps anyone, this is how I have been making templates to transfer to metal
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/qLZpsYO-1.jpg

As promised, all metal panels are now on the car
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/kEADznI-1.jpg

If you look closely, the bottom rear is fully welded and sanded down
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/bqISvmj-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/PVCYG7u-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/2GHMHJr-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/CXXTLbU-1.jpg

I have the car tilted a lot to allow easy access to weld the seams on the passenger side currently. The last pictures show roughly how the tire will fit into the wheel well at ride height. I think it looks really good there. I will pull them inward slightly when I get a new rear axle made. I currently have 6 inches of wheel spacers on each side. I figure I will use them to fine tune the rear track width. I think for now i will turn down each side about 3/8 and see how that looks, then go from there.

Also to answer the question that no one is asking, it's 90....90 feet of seams on this thing that need to be welded up and then sanded flat....FML. If anyone has tips or tricks on how to make this process go faster I am all ears. I got about two hours done last night and did maybe 25 feet or so, just tacking once or twice then moving a few inches down the line and bouncing around to all the different panels on the passenger side. I am being very careful with the seam that meets the factory quarter panel

[jlcustomz]

The secret to going faster is::::::::: you first need to figure women out. If you do that, you will then be superhuman.
Seriously though, if you sometimes get to hear the hours some of these guys that do work for Foose or other high end builders spend on metal work, you & me won't feel bad at all about the time we spend..I do like to run back over the spaced out tack welds with a rotary wire brush to clean up & some coarse grinding to knock down the height of the spot welds, which helps penetration of the joining tacks.
I have seen a method for speed welding with a tig by Chad from Auto rod technologies , which used to post here. But it requires perfect fitment of all joints after tacking & knocking down height of tacks. Takes more skill than I'll likely ever develop.
So just keep on doing what you're doing.
Do have a tip for filler over rougher areas that I'll be getting some of to try. SEM carbo fill. Has carbon fiber fillaments, which should help with shadowing effect you can get over welded areas. Don Hutton on this site used it on 2 show winning black paint jobs.
https://www.google.com/search?source=hp&ei=nhktXdGiDsmc5wKHp7eYBg&q=sem+carbo+fill&oq=&gs_l=psy-ab.1.7.35i39l10.0.0..9026...1.0..0.342.342.3-1......0......gws-wiz.....10.2sWQVmOsAgg

[JayinMI]

Nice progress. This design looks SO much better than the original "flares." Can't wait to see it out and about.

[cornfedbill]

I love this build. It is going to be fantastic when it is complete. It will be a real stand-out in the crowd.

[jlcustomz]

Just saw this on TC's thread.
165865

[Lurch]

I've been following this build for years now and finally decided to join the site so I can comment. I love the box flare idea but my one suggestion would be to make them big/open enough to allow wider wheels and tires. I assume that's probably an 18x11 and a 315 RS2. Kind of an old outdated tire these days. The hot ticket for a big Pro-Touring style SCCA CAM car or Optima Ultimate Street car would be something like a 335 BFG Rival S. And the fastest wheel for that would probably be something like an 18x13. So build accordingly if you go that route. I think a big, wide steamroller setup like that would be pretty beneficial on a big car like this.

[Motorcitydak]

Glad you guys are liking the new design and direction. This route was by no means easy and in the end will have cost several thousand to accomplish but when I saw Ben's design, it was clear this was how the car should look.

That is a good looking Daytona for sure! I had not seen that before

Lurch, I am happy to be the reason you joined here and thanks for following along over the years. Happy you like the new flares too! This was one of the cars we used for inspiration and vision
https://shopgreddy-com.myshopify.com/products/17020620
However, we liked keeping the top 3-4 inches of the factory lines intact.

No worries on space for monster steam rollers in the rear, I was fitting 315's back there in a stock wheel well before I pushed them out 6 inches. I feel like I could run those ridiculous Mickey Thompson tires you see on T-Buckets and things! As you said, my car is big and has some extra gravity built into it. It also will carry more weight in the rear with my engine sitting nearly completely behind the fire wall. Also the transfer case hanging off the trans. My rear drive shaft is less that 24 inches IIRC as opposed to 60+ for most any other car. One thing to keep in mind when considering tires however is that wider is not always better. It is very hard if not impossible for a consumer to find this information, but a tire traction dyno graph would be helpful here. It will show how much grip a tire can give with a certain weight on it. There is a limit and area where you will get less traction with a wider tire, you just cannot make it work unless you increase its weight load (ideally with added aero downforce). My 2000lb Lotus has 195s and 225s on it. Folks will go wider as the cars get more extreme but you then need to balance that with bigger and bigger aero packages to push those meats into the road.

Another issue is simply cost. It is relatively cheap for me to come up with 18x10, 10.5 and some 11 inch wide wheels. A 13 inch wide is going to be custom three piece units at $3000 per set and then add in the number of offerings for a tire that large, it becomes cost limiting for a 20mm tire gain. Not saying it is not necessary or a good idea, just always something to consider.

[Motorcitydak]

I thought that building the rear flares from steel would be a PITA. I was actually looking forward to the fronts, thinking it would be so much easier.... I decided to switch gears at start tackling the front end. The rears I figure can go to the show in three weeks as is. I will continue welding and sanding if time allows but I need to get the front end into shape sooner rather than later. I even had a plan and materials on hand to get started. My fabric and epoxy should be arriving today

First came a wood frame to hold my foam in place then to start filling in those big gaps left by the old flares that have been cut off

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/8FBknKK-1.jpg

Then I placed large sheets into place and have been filling in the gaps behind here. Once those are mostly filled in I have some cans of spray foam to finally give me something to start to shape. Both sides look like this right now

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/QLkrqCH-1.jpg

Once the shaping starts, I am not yet sure on how to go about that. I am thinking that a flap wheel on a grinder will get me to a rough area, then pneumatic liner sander with something like 4 grit paper is next. After that I can start with a DA and then block sand it out.

[speedfreakcobra]

Im soo stoked i cant wait to see this running around.

[dhutton]

I am curious why you are not using the same fabrication technique for the front and rear flares.

Don

[Peanut1959]

Fiberglass front fenders, steel rear quarters.

[dhutton]

Fiberglass front fenders, steel rear quarters.

Thanks, I just assumed they were steel.

Don

[jlcustomz]

Having done both fiberglass & steel construction, I originally was going to make fiberglass layovers for my rear widebody before changing my mind to steel. Was going to make a shape with expanding foam, fine tune & coat it, then make or possibly have made bucks to make quality parts that can be repeated & possibly pay a shop to make parts off buck. But for an off 1 project that's a lot of work. Was experimenting with something in the middle of the process such as kitchen cling wrap type stuff for release paper over my reasonably tuned & quickly done spray foam, then spraying harder expanding foam thickly & embedding reinforcements to make a mold.
Wouldn't be a great mold & would still need a bit of bodywork, but this could still produce a reasonable part much quicker & cheaper.
Other option was to make the part on top of the foam, remove foam , & then bodywork the hell out of it. Been there, done that on stuff before.
What's your plan Steve?

[Motorcitydak]

Exactly what peanut said. I do have OEM steel fenders for this car but I have been wanting to use the fiberglass ones to save about 30 pounds per side

Just thinking out loud here, but I was recently watching a prototype car being built. They always use a big CNC router to carve out the clay shape before getting to the hand work. Im thinking that maybe a small hand held router would be a good way to hog out a lot of the material quickly. Just checking out a 1/4hp trim router from Harbor Freight for $30...

jl, my plan here is to shape this foam exactly how I want it then simply lay the cloth over it. I am using epoxy resin so that will not eat the foam, therefore no need to coat it. This foam I am using is just a 2 inch thick 4x8 sheet of insulation from Home Depot for $30. I have 2 of em left over from a project I did around the house. One thing I really like about the stuff is that is sands VERY nice. The expanding foam, and green floral foam, I have used in the past is very much the opposite. I think that once I get my shapes close, some block sanding will have this foam looking just like a finished surface ready for primer. I hit a section of it with a DA just to see how it comes out, impressive is the answer to that one

Ill add that once the fiberglass is laid over the foam mold, Ill just remove the whole assembly from the car and break/grid away the foam from the back side. Ill add in some reinforcements back there to keep everything in shape and then work out some more details to attach these to the car

[jlcustomz]

Honestly a router isn't what you want here. Cnc equipment uses routers partly because they can have the types of cutterheads to cut harder materials & control it as needed.
I kinda quit with the spray foam experiment because I didn't have affordable & easy access to the harder foams that would have worked better.
I've glued up & used the pink foam, it is consistent & finishes decent. My preferred tool for this out of my tool collection is an old Festool ro150 6" sander which is both random orbital & random rotary , variable speed, and has a vacuum connection. With 36 grit woodworking paper it hogged the foam down in a hurry. Also a great tool for roughing in coarse body work like you'll be doing. Not cheap at over $600 these days. Think Bosch has a similar knockoff of this sander for a little over $200 now.

Epoxy is messier & more expensive than poly resin, but it is definitely better. Far less future shrinkage. If you can keep the resin to fiber ratio down to as little as possible, that'll help the strength & weight.
You mentioned cloth. Cloth is ok for first layers, but you really want to finish with matt material to not have checkering appearing in the future.
If you have any uv lights, that would definitely speed up the drying process. A spray on poly primer like evercoat g-2 definitely sped me up on getting coarse handmade off one fiberglass projects ready for final primer after a little traditional body filler.

[Lurch]

One thing to keep in mind when considering tires however is that wider is not always better. It is very hard if not impossible for a consumer to find this information, but a tire traction dyno graph would be helpful here. It will show how much grip a tire can give with a certain weight on it. There is a limit and area where you will get less traction with a wider tire, you just cannot make it work unless you increase its weight load (ideally with added aero downforce). My 2000lb Lotus has 195s and 225s on it. Folks will go wider as the cars get more extreme but you then need to balance that with bigger and bigger aero packages to push those meats into the road.

Another issue is simply cost. It is relatively cheap for me to come up with 18x10, 10.5 and some 11 inch wide wheels. A 13 inch wide is going to be custom three piece units at $3000 per set and then add in the number of offerings for a tire that large, it becomes cost limiting for a 20mm tire gain. Not saying it is not necessary or a good idea, just always something to consider.

The trend lately for wheels and tires has definitely been wider and wider. Especially on these new super 200TW compounds that get up to temp quick (I think these supersoft compounds negate the weight factor somewhat. The wider tires don't seem to have as much trouble getting up to temp as they did years ago).

I get the Lotus having skinnier tires up front since there's not much weight up there. My Honda is similar weight but with the distribution of that weight and the tire stagger basically reversed (225's on 9's up front, 205's on 8's in the back). I'd assume an AWD Charger with everything pushed back is going to be close enough to 50/50 to want a square setup.

No idea on how much interior this thing will have, so excuse me if I'm wrong. but I figure this car will probably be in 3500-3800 range? That's around what a newer Mustang weighs and they're starting to run the exact setup I described. https://trackmustangsonline.com/threads/18x13-335-square-under-stock-fenders.13378/ Definitely expensive tires, but it seems like no one but BFG makes a wide (300+mm) 18" sticky street tire anymore. Hankook hasn't in years.

I think if there was any real disadvantage of wider tires, it might be on track. Having enough power to overcome the drag of them in really high speed parts. You might have enough power for that not to be an issue.

As for cost, Forgestar could build you a custom set of 18x13's for $1600ish. It's been a while since I've really read back to see if this thing was 5x4.5 or 5x4.75, but if it's the former, I think Rota makes some fairly affordable 18x12's for it. 13's are definitely a custom item though.

[Zachalanche]

Consider economies of scale. Dont accidentally build your car around the most expensive tire out there. You might also limit yourself to a single brand of tire by going with a specific size.

Also you can fit a pretty wide tire on a narrower rim. 305s easily fit on a 10.5 rim. And you can also trade width fir diameter and maintain a similar contact patch. With AWD you shouldn't need the world's widest tire for acceleration. Sure you can run a 335 on the front for max cornering, but with what compromises?

Maybe find the tire size that is the best bang for the buck, then plan around that.

[speedfreakcobra]

I agree with zach. Since our builds are going in the same direction I'll throw in my 2 cents. I will use 2 sets of wheels and tires. The set that will be used for ax, rc and car shows will be 18x12 on the bfg rival s tires ($950 per wheel/tire) and for daily driving I will run Americanmuscle.coms combo of. Fr500 17x10.5 wheels on Mickey-T street comp 315 tires ($350ish per wheel tire). I just feel that such wide tires are useless unless you use it like you are supposed to. Having 2 sets can save you some money in the long run by only using the wide tires when you need to. Plus mt 315s go for like 150 bucks at 300 tread wear rating.

[Lurch]

I can definitely get behind the multiple sets of wheels and tires as I do that for my cars as well. More because I like to still drive my cars during the winter and store my 200TW tires inside during the cold months. 300TW's aren't really as picky about being out in the cold. Still that gives you something "normal" to drive around on when you're not driving the car in anger.

The 13 wide does kind of limit you to 335's and 345s (of which BFG, Toyo, and Nitto are about the only ones that make a 335 18 plus some full on R comps). You can get a 305 or 315 on a 12 and that opens up you options a bit more. My original comment about the flares was more just to allow yourself the option to fit the huge wheels/tires if you wanted.

[Motorcitydak]

Lurch, the car won't have much of an interior. It'll have the front seats, a center console for switches and cup holders and a rear bench. Not much for trim or cushions....at least not any time soon. I weighed the car when I was getting my suspension and it's just a hair over 3000# right now. I think the rear might have a bit more weight than the front but it will be close to 50/50. I do want to run a square wheel and tire setup. 315s look and fit pretty well. I'll have to look more into forgestar and rota.

Zach and speedfreak, I agree with you guys too. I do want good performance from the car but if I lose a tenth off a lap from smaller tires that Dave a few grand, I'll live. That being said I wouldn't mind having two sets so I don't waste good sticky tires on the street

Also to answer a question from earlier, the car has 5x4.5 bolt pattern. I had the c5 corvette drilled out because I preferred that so I can run Mustang wheels

[Lurch]

Does it need super high Corvette offsets or can lower stuff be used? Maybe not exactly what you'd expect to see on a Charger, but I've seen some people running these on some serious 240sx's (aero, big power, 315 Hoosiers, etc) as a "cheap" wide wheel. 18x12 +20 Rota P45R3. 25ish lbs so not the lightest out there, but not terrible. And you wouldn't be out a ton of money or be waiting for another if you mess one up.

http://www.wheeltech360.com/ROTA-Wheel-P45R3-18x12-5x114320mm-73mm-Hub_p_300.html

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/G0LxZSn-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/HxPXgdh-1.jpg

I'm not sure there's any getting around tire prices these days when it comes to wide 18's. I think the cheapest are probably 315 Toyo R888R and they're still $1200 a set. MT does the street comp and Nitto does the NT05 in 315's that are cheap, but only in 17's.

[Sbeck09]

I'll throw in my 2 cents here from some real world experience. I worked at Vorshlag Motorsports for a while and also built some cars for road racing on the side. I've yet to ever see a disadvantage when going to wider wheels/tires. It's a trend because it works. Even a 200hp car can benefit from 335s if they fit. I'm not saying it's financially worth it, but with a fairly light wheel setup it only improves lap times. That said...I went with 315s on my build since they are around $200/tire cheaper than 335s. The wheels also average $150 each less.

Absolutely take cost into consideration here, but fit the biggest you can plan to run while you are building this thing. And unless there is a class reason for it, I don't recommend running a narrower wheel than the tire calls for. It squishes the tire up and narrows the contact patch while also encouraging the sidewall to want to roll under in hard corners. In fact the opposite is preferred if you must. It was a trick in autox to run a 1 size wider than necessary wheel with the widest tire allowed by that class. It essentially adds a few mm to the width of the tire. It doesn't seem like you are in that situation so I would just match the tire size to the proper wheel width.

For wheels I would backup the suggestion for Forgestar as they are among the better wheels for the money. Don't try to save too much on your wheels as you largely get what you pay for.

[Lurch]

In fact the opposite is preferred if you must. It was a trick in autox to run a 1 size wider than necessary wheel with the widest tire allowed by that class. It essentially adds a few mm to the width of the tire.


The same holds true for road course stuff for the most part. Before NASA implemented their current mounted tire gauge rules, the faster way was to take the tire you were limited to and stretch it out on wider wheels. TTE Miatas with 205's on 15x9's. TT4 M3's with 245's or 255's on 10.5's.

A little stretch certainly doesn't hurt anything and the 12 wide does allow you to cram 305's or 315's on as well as 335's. So from a tire selection perspective, I think that size would make more sense and give more grip than a 10.5 or 11.

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks for the info and input guys! Lurch, to keep the scrub in the front close to ideal the wheels I have are +45mm. Turning on a dirty surface shows they rotate just about exactly in the center of the tire tread. I do have the ability to run either a 5x4.5 or 4.75 bolt pattern front and rear. I do need to order another two wheels very soon so all this input is greatly appreciated

[Lurch]

That's basically Corvette offsets then. Forgestar F14's might be your best bet at that point. Looks like around $1600 a set.

https://www.forgestar.com/wheels/rotary-forged-monoblock-series/f14/

Just take into consideration that they're custom wheels so they're is some lead time on getting them made.

Forgestar D5's are right there too. I'm not sure if these are more ready to ship straight from Summit.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/FGS-D5181250MA?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAjwpuXpBRAAEiwAyRRPgQd_iC7u3OcuaaIfLZWO gwAso6cYeNRiGw9bApTnaeP4xZq9zx8YbBoCEwcQAvD_BwE

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks lurch! I was just looking around on their site. Looks like I can go with a CF5 as well. That lead time isn't great but I can get two more wheels to match the ones I already have for $300 from American muscle. Then the forgestar ones can be my nice second set

[Motorcitydak]

Hey guys, it has been a long time since my last update but I’m still slowly working on the car. I decided I’m no good at fiberglass so now I’m building the front fenders in steel. I’ve had a pair of oem fenders this whole time and finally decided I needed to use ‘em. Here is where I am now, this is a 4 inch glare over stock, the rear I think I did 2.5. That’s a big question for me right now tho, the front and rear don’t match. What do you guys think about how it looks? I’m not sure if I want to keep it this way, or rip the backs off and push the flares out to match the front..... let me know what you all think

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/02/TZHEbCn-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/02/BhD2r6w-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/02/g5cGu1N-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/02/cIlSPSV-1.jpg

[Motorcitydak]

The drivers side fender is done as well. I did some mock up work to match the way shape I had on the rear but I did not like it because the wheel lip had to extend way out to allow the tire to turn, thus the girth had to increase.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/02/57aRmEK-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/02/kmvsp00-1.jpg

This was the revised version, prior to sheet metal

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/02/zXzlVLO-1.jpg

It is all welded up now, I just did take any pics.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/02/kcOeJYA-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/02/pWy2xQm-1.jpg

[iadr]

As far as the lip goes, you know, clearance vs the "ideal" appearance (namely: of flush offset *and* with a half inch upper circumference clearance, ...well I have to say I am losing my inhibitions about running air. IDK about you, but in my dream build it recently just tipped over the odds from about 66/33 no to 60/40 yes. As long as the geometry is right, why resist, is kind of where I got to.

But yeah I like it. Bit of a bulge in the lip to my eyes that I see without you having to have pointed it out. But it all works.
I like how you extended a "bumper" area to the wheel well. Interesting way to "update" it ! :) Moves the visual "weight" a little lower.
Though it might emphasize the long overhangs which I've always seen as a potential weakness of that body style.

[FormTA]

What about raising the top of the flair to match the body line of the door? Maybe that would help to blend it in so it doesn't look so much like its tacked on.

Still, it's looking much better.

[FormTA]

This is a garbage sketch I did on my phone quickly. But you get the idea. The top portion of the current rendition I really to flat IMO.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/02/49534664106_8a22f0c8b1_z-1.jpg

[FormTA]

This is a garbage sketch I did on my phone quickly. But you get the idea. The top portion of the current rendition is really too flat IMO.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/02/49534664106_8a22f0c8b1_z-1.jpg

[Motorcitydak]

iadr, I hear you there. Ideal vs necessary for function are usually at odds. Really the only way to have a flush offset in the front is to have the tire fully exposed and the wheel well opening a circle, following closely the edge of the tire. My design called for the factory shaped openings and the top portion of the tires to be covered.

Ben came up with the design to integrate lines from the bumper into the front portion of the fenders. I thought it looked awesome, it requires mods to the bumper so that is still to come. The front tires did get moved about two inches forward for the reason you mentioned and to give more room under the hood for the drive train. I’m happy with how that area came out.

FormTA, I see what you are thinking there. Ben and I wanted to keep the top of the flares relatively flat to match the top of the oe fenders and quarters. To the rear of the front fender is also where the angry bull graphics that Ben designed are going. In the end, we are really happy with how the design came out, I’m just trying to stay true to it and bring it to life. I think that both the front and rear flares now do that, they just do not match each other so I’m still unsure if I’ll have to change the rears to match.

[pro 451bee]

This is a garbage sketch I did on my phone quickly. But you get the idea. The top portion of the current rendition I really to flat IMO.
Don't mean to be an ******* but
That's really terrible what you have done , in my opinion , to a classic charger . Some one needs to take your tools away.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/02/49534664106_8a22f0c8b1_z-1.jpg
Don't mean to be an ******* but
That's really terrible what you have done , in my opinion , to a classic charger . Some one needs to take your tools away.

[Motorcitydak]

No worries bee, this build isn’t for everyone but neither is this website. Thanks for voicing your opinion tho. I never liked the pro-stock cars that were gutted and only had fiberglass body work all around that fit and looked terrible with a barely there tube chassis that handles like a wet rag and are very dangerous on the road and only designed for a 1/4 mile. That’s why I don’t spend any time around those things our checking them out online. Mopar gave us over 100,000 of these cars and nearly every single other one has not changed much in the last 50 years, besides rusting way. My car spent over a decade rotting under a tarp in a back yard before I got it. I’ll keep all my tools and keep buying more to progress my hobby as I see fit. Others intent on a factory restoration will do the same. I appreciate you replying to my thread as your first post on this message board. If this sort of thing offends you, this might not be the one you are most aligned with however.

[thumper877]

No worries bee, this build isn’t for everyone but neither is this website. Thanks for voicing your opinion tho. I never liked the pro-stock cars that were gutted and only had fiberglass body work all around that fit and looked terrible with a barely there tube chassis that handles like a wet rag and are very dangerous on the road and only designed for a 1/4 mile. That’s why I don’t spend any time around those things our checking them out online. Mopar gave us over 100,000 of these cars and nearly every single other one has not changed much in the last 50 years, besides rusting way. My car spent over a decade rotting under a tarp in a back yard before I got it. I’ll keep all my tools and keep buying more to progress my hobby as I see fit. Others intent on a factory restoration will do the same. I appreciate you replying to my thread as your first post on this message board. If this sort of thing offends you, this might not be the one you are most aligned with however.Motorcitydak I totally agree with you. Although that is not my style of car I think a person has the right to do with there car as they see fit. Thats what makes the sport fun is seeing different types of cars even if u don't like that style. You keep going and if u don't like it move on.

[Widetrax]

DAK, remember the fables we heard as children. “You can’t make everyone happy all the time “. I’ve also made a widebody 68 Firebird. Not everyone gets it!

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks for your input Thumper and Widetrax. This has been a long project and I am set on building and finishing it just the way I want it. It will not be for everyone and I'm sure there will be more negative comments to come, but everyone is welcome to say what they are thinking. That being said, I have not been able to get over the mismatched flares........

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/02/phpmzmQ-1.jpg

Time to start all over, but I think this time I will finally get it all right

[jlcustomz]

I feel your pain there. Haven't had a chance to work on mine in months, 2 new puppies at home, etc. Got my one side epoxied & mostly bodyworked & in black primer before running out of time. Perfecting the last part of the bodylines & that damn fender flare is a real time consuming part. I got some vette panel adhesive to use as an upgrade filler at body lines & especially near edges.
Being my project is on a running vehicle & a section at a time, getting it out in the open where I can stand back at different angles & even at different locations helps to sight things better. Can't get a proper perspective being right up on top of things.
I do find it comical when someone's first post on a site is to give a negative opinion. Got plenty of that over the years. But, sometimes it's just better on a widening project to widen the whole panel. but leave the flare more stock looking.
Here's a shot of mine from rear if it gives any inspiration. All smooth curves to the charger upper quarter section.173047

[Widetrax]

I went with the somewhat stock appearance look too. 173150

[ryeguy2006a]

Any updates on this build?

[dhutton]

Any updates on this build?

He hasn’t been here since August. Hope he is ok.

Don

[Motorcitydak]

Hey guys, thanks for checking in and the concern. I’m doing fine and progress on the car slowly continuing. I did get COVID in early December which slowed me down a little but I’ve been hit harder by the flu, thankfully. I have not been updating this thread lately since my phone became an old POS and couldn’t even take any more pictures, lol. I have a new one now so I’ll get some current pictures soon.

Since we last met, the rear flares did get finished. I set up a paint booth and sprayed the car with epoxy primer. The trunk, wheel wells and back sides of the fenders also got sprayed with raptor liner. Then the body work began and has not yet ceased. Unfortunately the rear quarters saw maybe four different attempts at the flares so all that heat distorted the sides a good bit. They require a good bit of filler which I’m still working on. The front fenders are not too bad and are nearly ready for another coat of epoxy. At this time, I’m hoping to be ready for paint in the late spring. Fingers crossed I’ll get there. It’s just cold now so I don’t venture out to get after it too much right now. Stay tuned, more good stuff to come for sure

[ryeguy2006a]

Sorry to hear about being sick, but glad to hear you are still at it. Post some pictures if you can, I'd love to see where you are at with this build.

[dhutton]

Bumping this up for an update!

Don

[Motorcitydak]

You are right to ask dhutton, it has been FAR TOO LONG since anyone has seen an update here. That doesn’t mean work has not been progressing, just that I’ve been neglecting to take pictures of lots of things and getting them posted here. Also the process of body work is incredibly long, boring and tedious. All that being said, I’ve attached some pictures of how the car sits right now, other than the front bumper is better fitted now. All the jams and back sides of the doors, trunk and hood are painted and cleared. I have a little work to do on the outside of the body now to get it all ready to be one color. The color is the Lotus color I posted before, called fire red. With the cold temperatures here now in debating if I should push to get color on it now or shift gears and get a new, wider rear axle ordered. In that note, anyone know of a company that will build be a Ford 9 inch full floater to a width of 72 inches or more? I talked to Moser and they said they can’t do it. Speedway engineering said they could but just wanted to know if there are any other options out there.

Merry Christmas!! From Santa’s new sleigh

[dhutton]

That’s a lot of progress! You’ve come a long way. Great color. Thanks for the update.

Don

[keepat]

Wow! Looks wild! congrats!

[Vimes]

I'm glad dhutton asked about this. Looks interesting.

[69stang]

Nice work & beautiful color!

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks folks for the compliments! I was hoping to have the whole thing painted before putting up an update but didn’t realize it work likely be two full years since the last one before I did that. Anyway, I’m still hard at work at it. Maybe it’ll hit the streets next summer

[Motorcitydak]

Folks, it’s shiny……. It took a huge effort to get to this stage as I know a lot of you know. The color came out phenomenal and the clear makes this thing look like a show car. Keep in mind that some of the pictures were taken just after we finished painting for the day and the clear wasn’t even dry so it hadn’t finished flattening out and getting it’s gloss. I can’t go a day right now without just peeking at the car and touching it. I added a bunch of pictures just to show the whole thing off as I’m really proud of the outcome. Soon the trim and other small pieces will be getting added but I’m just happy to show this thing off for now, enjoy

[studio57]

Looking sweet ❤️

[thumper877]

Looks awesome. It really motivates you when you finally get color on it. Congrats cant wait to see it with all the trim.

[FormTA]

Glad I checked back! I thought for sure this was going to be another dumped project. It's awesome you kept with it and finished it! Looks great, can't wait to see the front end.

[keepat]

Congrats! Awesome color!

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks for the replies, glad you all liked it so far. I love the color and can’t wait to see it in the sun! Still waiting on a lot of pieces to get done at the powder coater. All the trim is going to be gloss black and I think it will go great with the build. I’ve never really stopped working on this thing. Just stopped taking pictures and updating the thread for a while since honestly body work is so boring, long and tedious. I promise as long as I’m still here, I’ll keep working on this to get it done….. to some degree. I just got my Aim MXG digital dash for it so that will start to go in soon as well

[dhutton]

Looks great. You’ve come a long way since you were struggling with the flares. Can’t wait to see more.

Don

[ryeguy2006a]

I agree with everyone else, can't wait to see more pictures! Especially when it's out in the sun.

[TANKMASTERJ]

That thing looks freaking in sick. I love it.

[Zachalanche]

Nice! way to stick with it. Looking good.

Just a word of advice from my experience with flaring fenders. get some PPF on the front sides for those rear flares before you drive it. you will regret it if you don't. Even if you have mudflaps on the front, those flares are going to catch every single thing that comes off those front tires. It will be worse if you are running sticky tires.

[TimDavis]

awesome car! Looks like a buch of work went into this project! Did you get to drive it any yet?

[Martin71RS]

WOW ! I remember when you started this build looooong ago. It has the old rally car vibe ( like the Audi UR Quattro) with those fenders.

I like it :-)

[68Formula]

It's really coming together. Keep the updates flowing.

[Motorcitydak]

Work on this thing has still never stopped but I was disappointed I missed a deadline for it last August so I took a bit of a break from posting. I was able to get lots of trim on and all the glass in place. In late September I even took it up and down the street once just to say I did it

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/02/04/BAE86905-4ECE-4303-85B2-67FF8D984FBF.jpg

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/02/04/5D351C14-0BFC-450E-88CF-3164E55004FC.jpg

On to more recent events. One take away from that drive is that power steering would be great since I really can’t turn the wheel sitting still with those 315 front tires. Hydraulic systems were out of the question so electric it is. A 2002 Saturn Vue power box and some items from epowersteering.com later and we are just about ready to go back in. Hoping I can actually fit this thing back in place….

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/02/07/6F4F8995-EF45-4745-929D-42966ECF38CC.jpg

The steering column is all aluminum which is cool, but I can’t weld that. Still need to figure out where to clock the motor and have the bracket welded on

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/02/07/D3116C84-9C7D-41BC-A45E-39B67824BB7C.jpg

Last recent development is that if I had to point to a weak point in the whole car, it would be the NP147 transfer case I setup. They are from late 90’s jeep grand Cherokees, the case isn’t reinforced anywhere and the chain is only an inch wide. The trans is built proof, should be good for 1000hp and I doubt the transfer case would live with half of that. So….. back to the drawing board (wallet). A few days of googling shows that an early 2000’s Escalade NP149 transfer case can live in 1500+ hp applications with some mods. Only bad news is they only got a 1.25 inch wide chain. 1.5 inchers can be found in many HD applications, just need to try to fit it here. Also they come with a 27 spline input only, but a custom made 32 spline input is available. Brought home a case and now just need to fill it with goodness

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/02/04/F4CE7227-CBC4-4E6D-A21C-AB81F9B98967.jpg

That’s where I am right now. I’m going to hunt around for a bit and see if I can come up with any OEM way to give it a 32 spline input and try to make a 1.5 inch wide chain fit.

[ryeguy2006a]

Nice updates! Could you share a little more about the Vue EPS and how you attached it inline with your column? I see the flange on the upper side of the column, but the lower section didn't appear to have anything that bolted to it. Curious how you attached it to your column.

[iadr]

Somehow I missed the painted pics. July was kind of a blur- being pushed out of a job and date of my father's remembrance.

Always a huge fan of this- my dream build is a compact version of this- a 253cid half a Boss 429 in a 95inch wheelbase using an AMC Eagle transfer case and a G-force 5speed. Have acquired most off of thos parts, but feeling sluggish, and worried about work/income.

BTW, on a lighter note- what did they do to the output driveshaft on the transfer case? Looks twisted off? Not even cutting torched. ha

[Motorcitydak]

Nice updates! Could you share a little more about the Vue EPS and how you attached it inline with your column? I see the flange on the upper side of the column, but the lower section didn't appear to have anything that bolted to it. Curious how you attached it to your column.

Sure, so the unit itself comes from a 2002-07 Saturn Vue or 2005-06 Chevy Equinox. I got mine as just the power steering assembly for $50 from a local scrap yard. Some times they are only sold attached to the whole steering column. To run it, I’m using a ‘Bruno box’, linked here

https://epowersteering.com/purchase/product/diy-kit-saturn-vue-chevy-equinox-units

What I liked most about the setup is that I can adjust the amount of assist with a dial. I really only want assist while stationary. From what I read, the Prius units just default to full assist since there isn’t a controller that I could adjust the assist level.

All the parts I got are from epowersteering.com. He has a good bit of resources on the site to get you up and running. After talking to him, it was simple to add the unit to my column. The factory input is a long section of strange dimension/spline shaft so he offers a stub shaft. You just cut off that input where you’d like and weld on the stub. Then weld on a coupler to the column shaft. In my case it was a 3/4 DD shaft. Then in the output, pick up a 16.5 mm coupler and that gets welded to the output shaft of the steering column. The end of the column housing just slips back on and I’ll retain that with the firewall support bearing. The last piece is the input support. It bolts to the input of the power steering box and I trimmed to to the length I wanted and tacked on the flange for now. Might end up having to move the box further up the column so we’ll have to see how it ends up.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/02/08/FAEDFFD3-7530-44C5-907C-3C81D7C55AB6.jpg

The section of shaft on the top left is what I cut off of the power steering box

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/02/08/C25E3C0A-72E5-4354-A7F9-3993FCF75FBE.jpg

[Motorcitydak]

Somehow I missed the painted pics. July was kind of a blur- being pushed out of a job and date of my father's remembrance.

Always a huge fan of this- my dream build is a compact version of this- a 253cid half a Boss 429 in a 95inch wheelbase using an AMC Eagle transfer case and a G-force 5speed. Have acquired most off of thos parts, but feeling sluggish, and worried about work/income.

BTW, on a lighter note- what did they do to the output driveshaft on the transfer case? Looks twisted off? Not even cutting torched. ha

Sorry to hear about the rough patch buddy. That build sounds interesting! What do you think you’d put it into?

I agree on that rear driveshaft yoke lol. I didn’t have any other output yokes that would match the transfer case. Those shafts are really beefy!! Had to buy the whole front shaft and that rear yoke from the scrap yard. The rear shaft was aluminum. Looks like it got cut off with a dull beaver lol!

[Motorcitydak]

I think I forgot to mention that I did end up changing the rear axle. I know it’s an unpopular opinion but I’ve always preferred wheels with a flush center. The deep dish look isn’t for me. This way I’m also running the same wheels and tires on the front and rear. I got a custom 9 inch from speedway engineering last summer. It’s their mod light full floater built to 72 inches wide. It went in easy once I built all the mounts to match the old unit.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/02/08/E8E794B4-B91D-4032-A60E-3E99ECCA1531.jpg

Another really cool thing I was able to throw at it was a pair of brembo electric parking brake calipers. These came from a wrecking yard off a newer Aston Martin Vantage. Found em on eBay for actually a really good price. I bought them individually but am at $350 for the pair. I looked a lot into cable operated pieces but really didn’t want to deal with all the cables. These things are super simple. Two wires, 12 volts. Hook em up one way and they clamp down. Reverse it and they release. Thankfully my brother is an electrical engineer and said he can setup an arduino to run em and I’ll have a momentary switch to push. Hit it and it’ll clamp down until a predetermined amp draw. Hit it again and they will release.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/02/08/A64910B1-6B96-4730-AD63-E7C82A86F6DB.jpg

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/02/08/D7EE4D9C-68C1-4B59-8419-5AE4A301DDE1.jpg

[dhutton]

I like that parking brake. Very nice.

Don

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks Don, I was looking at some other OE options and could only come up with a few others that use an electric caliper. The C8 vette does but parts are still rather expensive for em. I saw some cable actuated calipers from F-360s and 430s that I would have used if I had to go with cables.

Currently I’m working on getting the new transfer case ready for service. Of course being a 20 year old unit that had to lug around an Escalade that whole time left it in need of attention. One thing I never liked about the old 147 case I was using was that it had a 1 inch wide chain. The 149 I got has a 1.25 wide one but some HD cases got a 1.5 inch wide setup. Unfortunately I couldn’t find anything that said if I could fit the bigger one. The places I called for tech support were not much help either. It seems those people are working remote now so I couldn’t get anyone to grab parts and measure things for me.

It seems these units are all built with modular parts relatively. Unfortunately I haven’t been able to come with an OE solution like I did for the 147 to have a 32 spline input like I need. The 149 only ever had a 27 spline input and any 32 spline input I could come up with wouldn’t fit. I did take a gamble on a 1.5 inch wide chain and sprocket set. The best resource I found for various parts is eBay. After scrutinizing various chains and sockets for link and tooth count, I ordered a set for a np261/263HD. Here are the three different chains, happily the big setup literally fell right into my case.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/02/14/201BE569-A88F-4DE8-826B-39903DE13C06.jpg

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/02/13/E3AF9653-9117-464A-9441-9CC87BEEBE14.jpg

The only issue I found that I wasn’t expecting was the wear on the input and main shaft. Those 20 years were not kind to em at all.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/02/14/CDA3B016-5018-46B2-8CEE-E4CEC08855AB.jpg

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/02/14/B05D5828-CD36-43E0-9754-A97E3C987BCD.jpg

My solution for the input was I was able to find a guy who can respline my stock input. Once that is done, all the internals will be getting cryogenic treatment which claims to increase strength 30%.

[iadr]

Yikes, looks like those splines are worn 85-90% to complete failure!
Not sure how re-splining would be possible...metal is missing. Maybe I misunderstand. Is someone able to respline the previously acquired 32 spline to fit this unit?

[chunger]

Interesting. They resemble the 'silent roller' OEM style timing chains found on many engines.

Do these also stretch like a timing chain?

[ryeguy2006a]

Nice upgrade to the transfer case! Also, thank you for the links and pictures of the EPS. That sounds like a great solution for my car as I have tons of room under the dash and have manual steering right now. I think that I follow your plan for the lower firewall brace, but I'm a visual guy so I'd like to see the pictures of how you finish it up.

[Motorcitydak]

iadr, yeah those parts were sketchy. Couldn’t imagine them lasting much longer in any application. Thankfully I was able to find new parts so are looking at old vs new there. Those is the other end of the input shaft that will be cut and resplined. Thankfully going from a 27 spline to a 32, there is more than enough material there to cut away the stuff and make the 32 splines happen with no issues.

Chunger, yeah the chains are all like that now. Way back some were all just gears inside but they were too loud. These chains are just made with small stamped out pieces of thin plate that are then riveted together in different lengths and widths. You can see in my pieces they are all very similar. Under normal applications, you can expect 150,000+ miles out of them until the chain starts stretching. Then you’ll hear and feel the chain popping as the teeth of the sprockets skip teeth on the chain. The one in my old 147 case was old, worn out and doing that. Thankfully I didn’t bother replacing the chain yet. Even way back when I put that case in, I wasn’t sure it was what I wanted to go with so I put it in as cheap as I could and figured I’d put in new stuff if I really had to.

Ryeguy, glad you are liking the setup! I think I will too. I bench tested it and you can feel at least double the output from this. Only downside I’ve found is that with the unit off, you do have a bit more drag from the input to the output. The motor uses a very coarse thread worm gear to assist you. Because of that, you can make the motor spin by turning the wheel but it just adds a bit of resistance. I did end up having to move the box further up the column as where I initially placed it was too close to my pedals. Haven’t finished up the install yet but I’m working on it, I’ll keep the thread updated with how it’s going.

[iadr]

Oh, ok. Rereading this a day later, I now understand: the re-splining will be on the female splines.

I was not understanding... in what way the input transferred torque on the shown assembly.

as I noted last week in relation to the below pic, looks like the transfer case you got might've had something traumatic happen to it judging by the output.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/02/04/F4CE7227-CBC4-4E6D-A21C-AB81F9B98967.jpg

[Motorcitydak]

Honestly I don’t even know if that driveshaft yoke came from this case. I just asked for front and rear yokes when I got the case from them. I know we were talking about a rear shaft from a Chevy truck. They brought up two different rear yokes that fit, I just picked the one that had the u joint size I liked better. The driveshaft was aluminum, looks like it was just cut with a torch, but could have been mangled too. The bushing at the end of the output does look to be in good shape but you never know what happened. Of course these cars don’t end up in a junk yard for nothing. Here is the cut end from that shaft.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/02/15/B4171697-8CA1-43B3-8C70-B68E8672DC58.jpg

One nice thing about gutting the transfer case is that it makes it really easy to move around. The cases are magnesium, both maybe weigh 8 pounds. This one is bigger than the old setup though so some of the floor will have to get reworked.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/02/15/F47A27AA-728C-4F53-BC6C-55D78CED49D0.jpg

[dusterbd13]

man, ive been gone for a while.

super stoked to see how this is coming out, and that its up and running around!!!
you went back north, right? or still in dirty myrtle?

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks! I share your excitement, might actually drive the car to a thing this year. I did move back up to the mitten after a few years skipping the winters. The Detroit area car scene is definitely a bit more active I’ll say

[F pilot]

That thing is awesome. Damn proud of you man!

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks a lot F pilot, hope to see it in the road some time this year! Ya know, just like a regular car would be.

For space for my feet on the pedals, I had to move the power steering unit further up the column. Mounted it as high as I could here. Then also made a bushing at the top of the tube going through the firewall from delrin. Really nice stuff to work with, also I love having my own lathe to make whatever I need.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/02/25/D117CE09-563A-48A6-B28B-A0E0BD101D29.jpg

For example I needed knobs for the door locks. The factory ones are boring so I got some brass rod and worked it until I found these hiding in there.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/02/25/C4628A71-924E-4196-BFD9-3FFBCF760653.jpg

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/02/25/7AE9E612-1942-4F93-8901-E88855FE3746.jpg

I had some new adapter plates machined to put the new transfer case on and am working on fitting the case under the car. This time, I’m mounting/clocking the case as high up as possible. The old setup had the case actually as the lowest hanging fruit in the car. I always pictured shattering it on a driveway or something and just thought I’d have to deal with it. Well, now it’s just more of an extra passenger inside all we’ll have to deal with that but I don’t mind.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/02/25/0CC4C22C-65A7-4783-8A56-01D82AF4940E.jpg

[thumper877]

Those door lock knobs are awesome!

[Motorcitydak]

Those door lock knobs are awesome!

Thanks! I first made some from aluminum but really didn’t like the feel. Brass really came out great. I do have more of the brass stock and could make more if needed.

[Motorcitydak]

Still working steadily to get this car together. The new adapter plates mount the new transfer case nicely. Still need to get the internals cryo treated before I can assemble it for good.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/04/08/BB91547D-D5E9-4F57-95AA-419FED1D3208.jpg

Had to spend some time figuring out how to clock each plate so I could line up each one without interfering with the fasteners.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/04/08/E16EDE05-440E-4AEC-A49E-1AD5DDD32A18.jpg

This is a tail shaft housing from a 4wd 45rfe transmission that I was using on the old setup and this one as well. It takes up length from the back of the trans and gives me 4 bolt locations to use as a trans mount.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/04/08/2202B29D-1CEF-421F-827E-BE320D5FC94A.jpg

Got the mount done, didn’t show the whole thing but I needed to add clearance for the front driveshaft.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/04/08/70611B0A-8843-44EF-8C69-D804C92A1108.jpg

With the transfer case mounted, I had to make quite a bit of room for the driveshaft.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/04/08/E37B55EB-4866-4C1F-9B3D-4B1CB1CA4550.jpg

I got the steering column mounted back up. The unit comes with a long bar going across the back of it that could be used to mount it but unfortunately it was in the way of my engines dog house so I had to cut that off. Instead, I made some stand offs and longer bolts that secure the front cover of the power steering unit. Still need to clean up the welds and paint it all.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/04/08/85ED483E-5CAA-4946-9CB8-D788AC93BBA2.jpg

On the topic of steering, one thing I never noticed before was that the drivers side front cv shaft hit the u joint from the steering rack with the suspension all the way down. The only way I have to fix that is to rotate the steering rack down. So…….. after putting in some temporary mounts just to hold it in place I cut out the mounts to start again.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/04/08/692ABB58-E693-446D-8F51-CE1B94AFB88F.jpg

Then got to work building the new one. So far I only have this side mount nearly done. Still have to finish welding a few areas and plate in a side.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/04/08/D5A47310-0903-45AD-BB2A-D99174AEA3D1.jpg

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/04/08/7B407F16-31AA-40D1-AB0C-13F91CE27A54.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/Mn7fS)

[chunger]

Very impressive how you're addressing all the issues and overcoming challenges - well done!

[ryeguy2006a]

Always upgrading, I love it. I'm very interested to know your impressions of the EPS unit.

[iadr]

My experience with a Hyundai OEM EPS was there was a huge feeling of a "flywheel effect". If you've tried one of those cars, you know what I mean, but it's hard to word out- you "fling" the steering wheel one way and it lightens up completely as it reaches the end of the intended travel. Very artificial and disturbing. It completely disconnects the driver from the contact patch.

Maybe other brands have gotten it better calibrated.
In the OP's case, maybe using it outside its intended application will fortuitously hide some original bad habits. By that I mean with 3xx/40 or whatever tires vs 205/70 or 215/70, plus hugely greater roll stiffness and possibly greater caster, and so on.

[Motorcitydak]

What I’m hoping to gain from it is just the ability to turn the wheel when the car isn’t moving. I took it on a test drive and unless I was moving, I really couldn’t get it to steer at all. The front tires are 315s, the scrub radius is directly in the center of the tire but it’s also set at 7 degrees of caster so it’s rough going. No problem when I’m moving though. One thing I really liked about this setup was the ability to dail in the assist I’m given via a variable knob. The Prius unit was a simple off and on setup. I figure I’ll turn it up when moving around a parking lot, then off or way down when at speed. I haven’t experienced a flywheel effect you are describing but I could imagine how it would be very off putting!

The new mounts for the rack are nearly done. Working on the passenger side one now with a vastly different design. I had a tube in place of my cross member that held the old mount. This time I’m building one to slip into that tube. Using 1/4 wall tubing and another 1 inch od stand off, it all slips together. Wanted to show how I drilled out the hole in the tube in case it can help someone else out there.

The steering rack is rotated 32 degrees and the center of the mount is slightly offset from the center of the tube so it was an interesting drilling operation. After drilling a pilot in just one wall of the tube, I used a 1/2 inch pilot point drill bit to go all the way through. Once that was done, I needed to use a 1 inch hole saw to finish the job. To get that done and centered, I cut the head off a long 1/2 inch grade 5 bolt then turned down the threaded section to 1/4 inch and mounted that in the hole saw arbor. A few minutes of slow drilling and it was all set!

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/04/12/84A17024-0093-4BE8-B283-FA6EFCD33403.jpg

After that it was mocked up in place so I could trim what was needed before welding in the stand off.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/04/12/FA1752D4-57FF-4616-85F0-67345A328675.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/MnL6D)

Then got it in place and started welding it in for good. Didn’t get a great picture with the low lighting, but still need to finish up both mounts. Once the rack it pulled out I’ll be able to finish welding it all.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/04/12/96313AB4-61F3-4102-8B03-B3CEE90A2BC2.jpg

I added a side plate to the drivers side mount. Just a bit of welding to do now to finish it up.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/04/12/78DF5552-70C8-4C9D-B63D-B4AEEE2887F3.jpg

Obviously I’m not super happy with how some of the welds turned out. Trying to get it done upside down is very difficult for me even with a good machine. While being under the car, I’ve seen some other welds that were done a long time ago that are awful. They will need to be ground out and redone. Like everything else, best time to fix a problem is now….

[Motorcitydak]

Took on a much easier project yesterday. I was never a huge fan of the black paint on the cast aluminum steering wheel adapter so it went in the lathe to get cleaned up. Then it got sanded and scotch-brighted and painted with clear.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/04/13/00A25761-328B-46D1-AFFC-3D27FFCE45DB.jpg

I do need help here finding someone who can make a custom emblem for my horn button. It has this weird looking plus sign thing on it and every time I put it in the car, I find it thrown across the shop. I’d like to have something made with the bull character I had done with the car rendering. If anyone knows who to contact, please let me know.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/04/13/42622173-2AD6-4494-820D-E31DCA394679.jpg

[Motorcitydak]

All that work on the steering rack finally got me this. Can’t see in the picture but I have about 3/16 clearance between the CV shaft and the steering u joint. Also checked with the spindle turned each direction. I was also able to simplify my steering shaft by eliminating one u joint in it so overall I’m pleased I went through this whole mess.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/04/20/036EA338-D721-41DE-B82D-1B67BA4EDE86.jpg

With that done, I still have to support the steering shaft since the rack has a double joint.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/04/20/F0EE3EA2-8332-4D8D-85CC-4B5AEE3D6358.jpg

I could just mount a rod end on it and call it good. Instead, I made up this bushing tube that’ll fully support the whole thing. Next job is getting it mounted to the car.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/04/20/964DD11C-C5D4-4234-89FF-1D1E0F38D814.jpg

[Motorcitydak]

Well another long time between updates but I’m still putting plenty of time and money into getting this car on the road.

First thing is I’m in desperate need of two more of these wheels I chose for the car. They are Konig Neoform’s in 18x10.5, matte gray, 5x4.5 +20. I got two but they are on back order until 8/6. I’ve tried reaching out to Konig and every online shop I can. No one has em in stock right now and I need two more to hopefully drive this car to a show on 8/12. Any help finding another pair would be greatly appreciated!!!!!

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/07/17/997FB195-B260-4671-A808-D0306B03A816.jpg

I have a big list of things that I need to finish up on to get it ready for the streets so I have been jumping around quite a lot. One thing was inner fender shields so I made them out of sheet metal with rubber strips to seal to the fender itself. Then riveted them to the car.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/07/17/81AD96E0-30C3-4AD0-95D8-60F03FAE6CCE.jpg

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/07/17/550C312B-EA49-40A6-A172-322A60D48332.jpg

Another huge chore was finally getting the np149 transfer case installed. There were a few modifications needed since I’m running the case upside down. I had to drill a drain hole or two and move the vent. The main one however was to move the input for the oil pump. To hold this in place, I just sent a screw through the case and sealed it up.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/07/17/46A6E6D2-9B90-4B04-82A2-1E7A70DC7C7F.jpg

Then of course the case is way bigger so the floor had to be modified quite a lot from the last iteration

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/07/17/DF120AE9-B7DF-4ADA-84A6-D889E38B080D.jpg

Well then that attempt didn’t quite work out with the placement of the passenger seat. This metal had to follow the outline of the case very closely to allow the seats to fit. Of course the driveshaft is higher up now so that tunnel had to go as well. This is hopefully now the final form and I painted it with raptor liner.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/07/17/36FD7F95-2301-43AC-A80F-53A4BDB30FB2.jpg

After all that hassle I finally threw some seats at it. These are from a Charger hellcat. The drivers side I was able to keep the whole factory seat rails.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/07/17/AEC8D6DF-5CEE-494A-BD39-39883EFF3C59.jpg

The base for the passenger side had to lose the rails though because of the space needed for the transfer case and front drive shaft. It won’t be able to move forward/backward or up and down but it does still tilt the back up and down, lumbar support works and the seat base can still raise at the front. Overall still a very comfortable seat and good position.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/07/17/755BED0A-00E3-49DD-B5F2-67DF3492F5BA.jpg

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/07/17/CBAA427B-032B-4012-8B81-47D81A7A3A63.jpg

Right now the seats are just powered by a Milwaukee m12 battery but them being fully wired in isn’t critical to me driving the car so I’ll just adjust em where I like then deal with that later.

Please don’t mind the giant mess of wires in there currently! I’m putting in a 28 circuit painless wiring harness. They give you a lot of wire to work with and there are many things I won’t but using. Just wanted to wrap up the floor and seats before I start trimming down the rats nest.

[chunger]

Glad to see this project is still moving along!

[iadr]

At lots of import shows the most respected racer (drift in their case) style cars are running mixed alloy styles front and back. As much as it may bother you and not fit in your vision for the car, throw something on there as needed for now. :)
As someone who did aftermarket parts distribution work for a living before it even got bad, you're just beating your head against a wall. Worse now with "supply chain" the excuse for absolutely everything.

[Motorcitydak]

Fingers crossed soon the project will be moving down the road!

Thanks for the info and suggestion on the wheels. The mock up wheels I’ve had on the car to this point are some 18x10 Saleen knock offs from American muscle. They are cheap and really heavy (25+ pounds) and now with a good amount of over spray on em. The tires I have on those are from the mid 2000’s and are rock hard. They are simply good for mock up and moving the car around but would never want to have em hit the streets. But of course I don’t want to take em off and mount new ones because they could never get back on a wheel. Just wanted to hold on to em or sell em for mock up only. Not sure yet what I’ll do for wheels other than keep my fingers crossed to get the ones I want.

On a good note I got the final parts to complete my transfer case swap done. The driveshafts are done and installed. Had to get a new section made for the front and the rear needed a different length and yoke put on.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/07/19/D6DF0783-C0D4-4695-9C0B-2EDE5DC642CC.jpg

The front shaft is rather interesting since it has to go around the side of the bell housing and has to get balanced together.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/07/19/82736621-E503-445C-A96B-B2B450136907.jpg

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/07/19/2A14D94E-F3A6-4403-8FC9-0C1EBADA96B5.jpg

Next up is a lot of wiring to get the lights doing what they are supposed to and get some miles on the car!

[chunger]

Nice! Looking forward to a video of this thing moving under it's own power!

[Motorcitydak]

Well I was hoping for a better update. The plan was to have the car at its first show this weekend. Unfortunately I broke it during a shake down drive the day before. I got 2.5 miles from my house when I stalled the car at a stop sign. I buzzed reverse trying to get 5th gear. My lock out solenoid wasn’t stopping my shift and it was all down hill from there. The keys ground down a good bit, locked up the reverse gear. Even in neutral I was going backwards.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/08/13/7E83793E-889F-48F2-93AE-DA49AB0EEA31.jpg

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/08/13/15B35D38-523D-45FF-8691-C8A4C3F50DAB.jpg

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/08/13/24989B6C-7514-4D4D-A14C-A225B3F9DAC4.jpg

If anyone has some T-56 parts around, I’m in need of most of the pieces at the end of the main shaft. Please let me know soon!

Anyway at least the car is nearly complete on the outside. I did get my wheels and tires on in time and I love them. The car looks great and it’s nice to see it outside even if for just such a short time. Check it out!

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/08/13/D7D04967-7F32-4DC7-94FD-7CBB4BBC91F9.jpg

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/08/13/821AE1D9-447C-47DD-A1EF-ADCEE2A39499.jpg

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/08/13/AD00136B-8FCD-4437-AE62-67389CECF1A4.jpg

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/08/13/C7D54953-728F-4F97-A693-83A281830F31.jpg

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/08/13/88E6D9D5-DDA5-49CF-B961-C7E45A07C8BB.jpg

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/08/13/0B9DEB0E-1F29-4ABA-9A4D-D56C6A8CA40B.jpg

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/08/13/149D9262-29EB-4A56-93A8-6F460847C3B3.jpg

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/08/13/39373ED6-C15F-4809-B5C2-3BDDCD4F6BF8.jpg

The wheels are tires are 18x10.5 Konig Neoform’s in matte gray and 315/30 Falken Azenis RT615K+. I really like that I’m running the same size wheel and tire on all corners.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/08/13/9EC41402-0FD7-4626-BCF0-7005D1A67998.jpg

For Ryeguy and any other interested in the electric power steering I’m using: So far I do really like it. It’s quite powerful and also silent. I went from barely able to turn the steering wheel with both hands to now I can easily do it with one hand while reaching in thru the open window. Haven’t been able to assesses out much just because all I’ve done so far is just straight roads.

Under the hood, I finally was able to install my sway bar setup. I first dreamed this thing up at least a decade ago when I first was building the inboard push rod suspension setup. The bar itself is a piece of 3/4 4340 round bar I turned down on my lathe.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/08/13/FE1B44A7-21DB-40DC-8103-1CACFDA20A76.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/Maf0Z)

[ryeguy2006a]

So sorry to hear about the troubles with your 6 speed. If you can't find any used, call someplace like Tick or Bowler.

Great feedback on the EPS. That's definitely something on my list of upgrades. First is getting it running/driving though. :drive1:

[Kamper]

I have thoroughly enjoyed reading this build, just found it a few days ago. I really am impressed with your wide range of skills and your willingness to build things well, but not trying to be perfect. Then if it doesn't work out, you just rebuild again which is way more efficient than trying for perfect on the first try. You've done suspension, wiring, bodywork and all that drivetrain work. Thank you for all the extra work you've done to share this with us. A couple things I hope you find helpful. My T56 has a very strong spring keeping the shifter out of reverse, so I don't use the lockout solenoid for reverse and can't really get to it accidentally. Mine is a stock unit from a '95 firebird. Also, for interior noise I've found that CLD tiles and MLV with closed cell foam do a wonderful job of keeping noise out.

[Motorcitydak]

Kamper, sincerely thanks a lot for your time in reading over the thread and I’m thoroughly glad you enjoyed it. I’m happy to hear anyone’s feedback and opinions on this build. I know not everyone will look positively at it.

I bought this car in 2009 and have been working on it nearly that entire time. I’m happy looking back that I chronicled the entire thing how I did. It’s neat now to be able to relive the build myself. Also it was an easy way to document some details I’ve had to refer to even recently.

This whole thing came together by my own hands simply because I enjoy engineering and this is a culmination of my hobby. Many things this build required meant I really needed my own lathe. That is now one of my favorite tools and I’ve been happily able to make plenty of bespoke parts for it. Also I am far from a rich person and could never afford something like this by any other way. I’m also not ashamed to admit it but I likely have around $150,000 into this thing. When I first bought it I started keeping detailed records of every part and tool I’d buy to make this happen. When the numbers kept climbing I quit that just because I didn’t want to know, haha. Soon I’ll have it appraised so I’ll see what they think it might be worth. However just writing a check to have a shop build something like this I assume would far more than that.

Regarding your T-56, any idea what internal mechanism keeps you from easily going into reverse? Because I had to use the mid mount shifter, I lost the boss the regular neutral safety switch engages on. Right now I’m drawing up an external mechanism to lock out reverse. I’m thinking something like making a gated shifter. I saw some 80’s Lamborghini models had a metal latch that stops the shifter from being able to get into reverse.

Also I like those tiles you mentioned for insulation! Soon I’ll start to work on improving the experience of driving it and that means making the interior a nicer place to be.

[Kamper]

In my T56 it just has a very stiff spring to overcome to get into reverse. I do have a short throw shifter in the stock location. Though it feels like it takes 20 lbs of force to get over into reverse. I've never had it apart so that's all I can say.

[chunger]

Steve, for the shifter idea, have you seen the sequential shifter made for the T56 (https://s1sequential.com/product/sequential-shifter-t56-gm/?ph=520e08a63daa08ffebfa06f6)? They are not cheap - BUT they are pretty cool. Definitely different.

[ryeguy2006a]

Do you have the rod that goes through to the tailshaft shifter installed and/or did you delete the reverse lockout? If so, you should be able to reinstall the shaft with a plate that allows the reverse lockout to function with the mid mount.

[Motorcitydak]

I did see the S1 sequential shifter years ago and decided I had to have it for the car…. Then I forgot about it. I think it would be an amazing addition and would love to have it for sure! Unfortunately it’s just the cost of the thing, $1600 for a shifter just isn’t in the cards right now especially given how much has just been put into it to get it on the road. As much as I’d love one, I don’t see it happening any time soon.

My shifter is mounted on the middle location of the transmission housing. The trans is mostly C5 corvette and I’m using that tail shaft housing. The shift shaft stops at that location. the lock out solenoid screws in to the side of where the shifter is but with the pin extended, does not make contact with anything inside the trans. I tried to get a decent shot of that, but failed. Anyway here is the back of the trans with the shifter in reverse. On the left side you can see the solenoid with the pin extended not really doing anything.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/08/21/9AB6D50A-4C95-4DAC-B985-EF3C4CC01BCE.jpg

This shot gives you an idea of what I have to work with

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/08/22/770A5FA9-8F04-4FF4-8571-C81AD31E46E5.jpg

Another positive note about my favorite tool. The lathe was able to do a great job cleaning up my main shaft. Saved me from having to buy a new one.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/08/21/5D6ED559-E87E-46FC-94F0-3E523F7514DD.jpg

I’m happy to say I was able to get the transmission back together and the whole drivetrain is now back in the car. Of course before I drive the thing again I need to figure out a way to positively lock out reverse. I can’t think of any other way to do so other than with an external gate, or that awesome sequential shifter!!

[Motorcitydak]

Yet another thing the lathe was able to do for me was make this seal installer tool. The front output of the transfer case has this odd seal where the inner ring spins with the output shaft and the outer ring is pressed into the case. This means you have to drive the inner and outer ring together. There are two tools I have seen that can do this, one is around $40 and the other is $400!

Unfortunately the first seal I tried to install didn’t go well since I didn’t have a tool for it. I thought it was ok though because when I filled the transfer case, it didn’t leak even as I was running the car on jack stands with the wheels spinning. Looking back now I think I was rather lucky my transmission failed when it did. When I got home I drained under a quart of oil from the transfer case. I put 3 in there to start. The rest flew out of that seal during the 5 miles I was able to drive.

Here is the first seal I put in. Of course it’s more damaged from being removed. The tool I made is just a piece of 3/8 thick aluminum with the correct ID and OD with a slight step to account for the difference in the seal. I then used a large socket and plastic hammer to drive in the seal equally.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/08/22/50E37D8C-2B10-43F5-8AB8-64D026670CED.jpg

Another issue I’ve found is the various screws I have on the outside of the car are rusting. I have about 100 of these black oxide coated screws that I believe are stainless steel. At least that’s what I bought. However would those rust like I have going on? I’ve only washed the car with soap and water once so far and didn’t expect this to ever happen. So, should I buy I new set of stainless steel screws with a black oxide coating? Does black oxide rust on its own like that? Or should I buy regular stainless steel screws and have them powder coated black? Maybe try ceracoat? Not sure what to do here

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/08/22/72E79751-3837-4EF4-AF6C-283191B2403D.jpg

[ProTouring442]

Black oxide coated hardware is regular steel and will rust. You could have it black chrome plated, or Ceracoted.

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks! From my limited checking around online it seems black oxide is mostly put on then intended to be lightly oiled. McMaster Carr does carry 18-8 stainless hardware with a black oxide coating. Some sites said the only purpose of the coating is to change the fastener black. Good enough for me tho so I ordered some and will switch them out. I’ll get one wet and see how it does but hopefully I’ll have better luck with this option

[ryeguy2006a]

That's a bummer on the hardware rusting... I can't remember which grade of SS is more prone to rusting, but I know that the 304 SS has high nickel and is more resistant to rust. Maybe swap them out for 304 SS and have them painted or powder coated.

I had to look up the C5 trans because I didn't understand where the reverse lockout was. But I see now that the shift rod is located on the torque tube and the reverse lockout is mounted where the mid-mounted shifter is. So you may have to get creative to figure out a way to install a reverse lockout device. I'm wondering if you couldn't install a spring loaded device on the side of the trans so that it has resistance when going into reverse. Or if there was a way to modify the CAGS solenoid to work as a reverse lockout. You definitely don't want to go through all this work to have this happen again.

[Motorcitydak]

The old black oxide hardware is getting swapped out for the stainless steel black oxide ones I just got from McMaster. I think that’ll solve the rusting issue there.

Digging into the shifter issue, I started by taking a few measurements to check the movement between gates. Turns out the shift knob itself only moves 0.410 inches between each gate. So of course about half way down the shifter I’m only seeing half of that. I am running a short throw shifter and I do like the actual shifts so I don’t want to change that. Also like the location of the knob so I’m not wanting to make the shifter arm longer. This just means that I cannot make a cool gated shifter plate with slots for each gear.

What I’ve come up with is just a plate I can slide to prevent or allow me to actually get reverse only when I actually want to. Also worth mentioning my engine mounts are quite rigid polyurethane so I really don’t get much of any movement when the engine is under load. Of course I haven’t been able to test this out very much just yet. But, I can remove the transmission mount all together, remove the jack from under it and the drivetrain only sags down about 2 inches, only supported by the two engine mounts.

This started out with 3/16 plate. Then I made some bosses with a precise .500 ID. One is .400 long and the other .600 just to be able to use a 1 inch long shoulder screw. Then I made another boss threaded for 1/2-13. That one holds a stainless spring plunger. Then I drilled a 1/4 inch hole in the bottom plate for the pin from the plunger to nest into. That bottom plate has a cut out to allow the shifter to be able to get into the reverse gate. Only when the top plate is slid over can that happen. To do so, I have to pull the plunger knob up to clear the pin from the bottom plate then I can it move over. This was the best and most reliable solution I could think of the ensure this doesn’t happen again.

Still have to build a plate to mount this to my trans tunnel, but here is the assembly for now.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/08/26/0C61C29E-23CF-4633-ADCB-5CA4FA129364.jpg

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/08/26/A81892B8-AA16-4CE2-9B7E-8DFF46D5842F.jpg

[19,69camaro]

Any idea what this behemoth weighs?

[Motorcitydak]

That’s a great question. A long time ago I weighed the bare shell and was shocked it was just under 700 pounds. After that I was obsessed with trying to build it as light as possible. I weighed a lot of things going into it and was trying to bring it in and 3000 total. IIRC the engine was around 590, the transmission is around 80 and the same for the transfer case. I do have an old setup using bathroom scales and levers to weigh the car and I’ll have to do that soon. If I had to guess right now, I’d put it around 3300.

[BobinFL]

You might look for some marine grade hardware made from 316 stainless. That grade is less prone to corrosion than 304, and holds up well in the marine environment.

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks Bob. I don’t think I need the utmost corrosion resistance but just stainless under the black coating will hopefully do. I’ve been spraying one of the screws I got with water or soap and water as a test and so far so good. No rust to be found. Hopefully these are just what I needed

[Motorcitydak]

Got the reverse lock out mechanism wrapped up and in place. So far really happy as it positively stops me from going into the reverse gate and puts me right into 5th.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/09/25/4D32CEBE-E847-48A9-88A5-D3980A19B96C.jpg

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/09/25/613B10AC-2B43-4F17-B408-C4C38D857B65.jpg

With that wrapped up, I had no excuses to not road test the car again. So…. A show just so happened to be going on this past weekend about 20 miles from my house. Signed up and as anxious as I can get, headed out for it with a neighbor following just in case. Did have one moment I’ll get to, but we actually made it! The drive home was uneventful as well and it was interesting to actually begin assessing how the car actually is as a car.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/09/25/88288E03-F875-4809-B793-0500773E39F9.jpg

Initial assessment from me is that I really like just how tight the car feels. Every suspension mount is a bearing or rod end so there is no play in any piece. The steering feels so good and no unwanted movement anywhere. I was mostly on smooth pavement so can’t yet say how much I’ll hate it on rough stuff though. Overall just very happy with how is acting at the moment.

Now, on to the issues:

1- the engine shut down once as I was coasting to a stop at a light. I think I know the cause so not yet worried about that one. The big issue is I believe I’m heat soaking my starter. It’s very close to the headers I built. The headers were ceramic coated and I wrapped them with DEI header wrap to attempt to stop this. I think I’ll get their starter blanket as well. The issue is that once I was stalled, the starter barely wants to crank. When I try, it turns the engine over very slowly. Just one compression cycle at a time. When I held down the starter button for a few seconds that ended up blowing my 250 amp mega fuse I have right after the battery.

I was able to get started again by hooking my a jumper pack to my battery. That helped it crank up just a little bit faster and did the trick. But still, with that extra juice it wasn’t cranking as fast as it normally does.

Also worth mentioning that once I got home after the 30-ish minute drive I shut it down normally. Then just to test it I tried to start it again. Did the same thing where the engine would just crank over one cycle at a time.

To go over the battery circuit, I used a battery relocation kit and am using their 2ga wire from the battery to that mega fuse maybe a foot away. Then the wire goes along the frame rail and to the starter. Then a wire from that same starter stud going out to the rest of the car. The ground wire is 2ga as well and about a foot long just going to a stud welded to the rear passenger side frame rail. All ends of these wires have good quality copper terminals crimped on with a hydraulic crimper. Just saying I don’t think it’s anything to do with the electrical system.

So what can I do to fix the heat soak on the starter? Maybe a remote solenoid? I’ll running a quick time bell housing and that uses a stock 2010-ish hemi challenger starter. If needed, I could hack off the solenoid and just run a wire to it instead. I really don’t have any room to move around the exhaust or front driveshaft.

2- I’m running a hydraulic switch to activate my brake lights. The relay is close enough I can hear it click. Issue is with my manual brakes I really don’t have to push hard to just barely start to slow down if I’m coasting to a stop. So unless I push the brakes harder, the lights don’t actually come on. The brake pedal is a floor mounted tilton triple master assembly. What other options are there that would be more sensitive to when I’m just barely braking? I’m envisioning something like a plunger style factory brake light switch that will activate the moment I just barely touch the pedal.

[dhutton]

Maybe try a heavier cable. 2 gauge seems a little small. I use the cable from 5th gen Camaros that I buy on eBay. It’s 00 if I remember right. High quality cable.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/266335976499?hash=item3e02dc7c33:g:ayIAAOSwpgFkssJ J&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0OFos2ACWhDugjsXcNf6FTg5arOQZ E5q6eznsfMkCvEl%2BuOyoh0xw8Luox8fJ%2BMT17HhIg85LSW VmzMwnDxseH79S6KICQttp2Cwg%2BS%2FYUpLKmOF9KBJtN77c 0kGv4rxMCn87XzaRCKOKwN2GYZJ3fnpcs5AYNP72wQq6PAHLcx z%2B76aVN%2F3zfUC3BE1Gi%2Bm2%2FXv4GAikHAm2YQWIT62d lFm5trRX20mfHBLqGYxe89pMnc67FjPKRrJ2KjE70j7y07MDx% 2BYUL%2BMLIQ5qJ9eTzw%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR6bytubZYg

[Motorcitydak]

This is the kit I used. Trusted that if they sold it like this, it’s good enough

Check out this page from Summit Racing https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tay-48000

[Motorcitydak]

Good idea about grabbing oem stuff. I always trust and like to adapt factory parts when possible.

Something I read a while ago was that wires are able to carry more current the warmer they get. Or at least their resistance drops as temps increase. Please correct me if I’m wrong. The wires are routed away from heat as best I can. Also I started the engine about ten times with no issues a few days ago as I was changing the gauges on my digital dash. All times it started just fine but was only running for a few seconds to see what the gauges were showing.

[dhutton]

Resistance increases as it heats up. So the voltage drop across the cable increases as the cable gets hotter.

Don

[Motorcitydak]

With the weather cooling down around here I’ve been slow to get at the car but did take a look at the battery cables. There was a good 3 inches of air space between the ceramic coated and wrapped headers and the battery cables. Obviously not enough so I’m doing what I can. I was able to move the cables away a bit more and also wrapped with DEI titanium spark plug wrap. Haven’t tested that yet but hope to soon.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/10/23/02DD00DC-292B-4A85-86E8-8EB18F60F3A3.jpg

Looks closer that they really are here. The cable from the bottom left is from the battery. The other ones goes from there are powers the rest of the car. Never had an issue so far with voltage anywhere but the starter.

Another issue I heard was a knocking noise coming from around the front driveshaft when taking off from a stop. Figured that was when the driveshaft was under a bit of load. I had a concern that might happen as the center carrier is held in place by two rubber bushings. I could hit the driveshaft yokes into other things just by pushing on em. Didn’t know if it would happen under load but turns out it does. It goes in towards the center and makes contact with the starter. There was about 3/4 inch between them just sitting, but that was my noise under load.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/10/23/47E26795-610D-4088-9932-3F7B3A04ABED.jpg

Again, pictures don’t to it justice but there is a small witness mark on the starter. To address this I did two things. It had a 3/8 thick aluminum spacer on the mount to move the carrier bearings out. That got changed to 3/4. Other thing was to fill in the slots in the rubber bushings. All those holes really allowed all the movement to occur. I just squirted RTV in there so fill it in. I’ll have to see how long it’ll last for. If the experiment fails, I figure I’ll have to cast new bushings with a firmer material.

https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/10/23/F947CDE3-7AD1-4684-A753-B22006ABBB1A.jpg

[ryeguy2006a]

Nice fixes!

[Bjkadron]

Were you ever able to make more progress?

[dhutton]

Were you ever able to make more progress?

He hasn’t been here since Nov 2023. Hope he is ok.

[XLexusTech]

He hasn’t been here since Nov 2023. Hope he is ok.

Me too. Speaking as someone with a recent health crisis.. its tough to get old..:-)

[dhutton]

He was on the Charger forum in November so it looks like he is ok.

[XLexusTech]

He was on the Charger forum in November so it looks like he is ok.


Cool good news.

[Motorcitydak]

Hey all, thanks for checking in and the concern!! Happy to report all is well with me. The car is….ok…..

The interior is currently empty. Took the seats out just to put in a different car, need to work on the back seat for this one and pick up some others for it. Still haven’t gotten those two issues fixed unfortunately. The starter still struggles when hot and the front shaft hits things hard when I take off from a stop. The good news is I know that after about an 80 mile round trip it did in August. I got it to roadkill nights in Pontiac Michigan, possibly the last one ever with motor trend doing whatever it’s doing now.

It’s cold here now so the car is pushed into a corner of the shop waiting for nicer weather. I’m thinking it’ll need a bigger cable from the battery to the starter and I’ll have to cast my own bushings for those driveshaft bearings. The biggest problem is oil leaks. That dry sump system has so many different fittings and they all like to annoy me. But anyway, some good news was this article I hope you all can enjoy that was done on the car when it was spotted at the show

https://www.dodgegarage.com/news/article/owners-clubs/2024/08/this-1968-dodge-charger-is-an-enthusiasts-engineering-marvel.html

[andrewb70]

It's pretty cool to see the progress of a project over the last 14 years!

Andrew

[Vimes]

That is a tight area in there. If you don't already have one a mini starter would likely solve the problems. This place (https://www.bouchillonperformance.com/inc/sdetail/5464) has one for the Gen 3 Hemi, but this is not a recommendation for the shop, just showing what I'm talking about. They also claim "Has permanent Magnet Fields that generally are not effected by Heat as bad as Original Full Size Wound Field Chrysler Starter." This would likely also solve the driveshaft/starter contact issue provided that a mini-starter isn't what is in there already.

A smaller starter might also let you fit in a stand-off starter shield (https://www.moroso.com/starter-heat-shield74299/) that puts a small air gap between the shield and starter. This would be better than a starter blanket directly on the starter. Eventually heat will penetrate the blanket, then the blanket would hold the heat in keeping the starter hot longer than it would be when the engine is off. An air gap would mean that when the car is moving, the heat can't reach the starter as airflow carries the radiated heat away. Worse comes to worst, a remote solenoid would solve the problem.

I'll also suggest looking at welding cable for the primary starter cable. I've been using it for years with no issue. Welding cable is a lot more flexible so easier to route, and is designed to live in hostile environments. The welding cable, due to the flexibility, will need extra support and vibration protection though, as it'll be more likely to rub around under the car. I usually wrap it in corrugated tubing, but you can also wrap it in that stuff you have on the existing cable.

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks Andrew! Yeah it’s been quite a process and cool to see it laid out like this over the years.

Thanks vimes for the suggestions! I haven’t used welding cable before but will have to check into it. I was about to buy a battery cable from a 300 on eBay. It’s 1 gauge I think, I’ve used it before and it’s very flexible.

I did buy a blanket for the starter but couldn’t fit it on because of how tight everything is. I’ll have to look into that starter you mentioned. Hopefully I can get something to work. Last time I drove it, it stalled and wouldn’t start again. Then it blew my 200 amp fuse. My the time I got that replaced it was able to crank enough to start but still was going slow.

[Vimes]

Cool. My last order came from wireandcableyourway.com, and was 2.80 a foot for 30ft each of 1ga black and 1ga red. There may be cheaper places, but I was already ordering some URD from them to run power to the wife's greenhouse.

[tylercamaro]

I was a youngin back in 2012 ish when i worked at CCI driveline. helped build some driveshafts for some kookoo head at the time thinking he was building an AWD 68 charger.........i just. merely 14 years later, stumbled across this build and im so glad i did. I saw it at roadkill nights you spoke of and thought maybe this was the same car. glad it was. youve come along way since the original inception. loved every second of reading through the 36 pages of this!

[Motorcitydak]

Tyler, I love that story lmao! I was just at CCI a week or two ago for some more stuff. I still have that center section and the front shaft that was made way back then, i wonder if you worked on it??! The rear shaft and rear section of the front had to be made again since I changed the t case. I remember the dad from the shop came over to my house to check out the car and see what we could do for the crazy front end that was going on. I know his son is still working there, not sure if he is tho. I’m really glad you got to see it at roadkill and realize the thing finally got somewhat assembled. They told me to bring the car by the shop some time so they could check it out.

[tylercamaro]

Glad you liked the story, really brought me back down memory lane. I definitely did build the orginal way back when. i believe both sons might work there again/still. id hoped the dad would have retired and enjoyed some well deserved vacation time. Next time i see the car on woodward or whatever ill have to scope you out and get a better look at it!

[Mattilacken]

Wow! What a epic build you have done! Great work on making that driveline to work with AWD! I guess many have a secret dream about a AWD monster thanks to cars like Hoonicorn but few get around to actualy making one! Cudos to you for doing it!

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks for the support from the Arctic Circle! I’d like to encourage anyone with a crazy idea to try to make it happen! I started this build in a dirt floor tent, then a 2 car garage. It took lots of hunting around and trail-and-error. In the end I built exactly what I wanted and did it all by myself. To that end, I’m in no way trained or taught to do any of this, just a fun hobby that I enjoy and that’s it. If you have something in mind, get after it!!

[kawasakii]

Looking forward to seeing the car as you make progress..