Red Bull 1968 Charger AWD Hemi 6 speed

[bonecrrusher]

That is quite the combination of parts and cars trucks and jeeps!

Would the Magnum T56 4wd case help out at all?

[Motorcitydak]

I have never even heard of a T56 Magnum 4x4 trans. I know that Rockland Standard Gear will do a 4wd kit now but it cost too much for me

[bonecrrusher]

that RSG trans is what I am talking about. I googled it once and that trans was like 6 grand, lol.

[Motorcitydak]

Yeah, a little much for me if I ever want to finish up this car. They gave me a price of either $1400 or $1600 for the parts to make my Viper trans adapted to 4x4 with the 27 spline shaft. I could have used my Viper box for the 32 but it would have been another $1000+ in parts

[Motorcitydak]

This has taken me a lot more time than I wanted but rest assured that I have still been working on this car. Those 3/4 aluminum plates have been taking up quite a bit of time. The biggest pain was that I had to carve 6+ inch diameter holes in that stuff, then line up the cap screws and studs.

This was about a week ago when I finally got those holes cut in there

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/DSCF2179_zps49064e34-1.jpg

Then a lot more of the floors lost their battle to be a part of the finished car and I started to set the whole thing into place

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/DSCF2226_zps4a18ca52-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/DSCF2223_zpse127d721-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/DSCF2225_zpsb1a1257e-1.jpg

Of course then I had to take ground clearance into consideration...but also the floor and passenger seat.....then there were interference issues with the cap screws and stud locations in my plates. I had to rotate my 2nd tail shaft a bit and redrill the studs for the transfer case plate. It all looks like it will work out in the end even if more of the floor is going to be hacked up for the front driveshaft

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/DSCF2227_zps5d549136-1.jpg

This is the clearance under the transfer case. It only hangs about 1/4 inch below the level of my frame rail connector. I think that a nice skid plate is still in order for this tho. A decent speed bump would rip my transfer case to pieces. If you cannot tell, this car is pretty dam low and this is with it at ride height

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/03/DSCF2228_zps684a140d-1.jpg

[ent72olds]

My mind feels like scrambled eggs everytime I check in on you Steve! I love scrambled eggs! Keep on movin' my brother!

[linkstar69]

Great adaptation of parts.

[Motorcitydak]

Haha, awesome. Just had eggs for breakfast, maybe that has something to do with it. Thanks a lot guys. I have my front diff at a shop getting rebuilt and new gears. Turns out that the one side bearing did spin. Looks like it leaked most if not all of its fluid and the bearing just started falling apart. Id bet that thing made an awful lot of noise when it was still on the road. It will still be an open diff but it is getting a 4.56 gear! :) I am hoping to have it back in a week or so then I need to work on the front driveshaft and trans mount

[bonecrrusher]

Nice adapters - are you going to cut them down any more?

[ryeguy2006a]

You are doing an amazing job man. Such a unique project.

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks a lot guys! Yeah, I am still going to cut down the adapters more. I want to cut them to follow the contour of the pieces on either side of them. I just want to stop by another guys' shop because he has a band saw and I do not. I really do not want to cut more 3/4 aluminum with my sawzall.

I did just make a wooden structure that rests on the floors, it reaches over the trans and I used a ratchet strap to go under it and take the weight of the trans/transfer case. I had it sitting on some wood blocks before, but I need to lift the car up about 2 feet so i can get under it and build the crossmember.

[RadLS67]

Can't wait to see more of this build progress, awesome build!

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks a lot! I hope to get some progress on it soon, I just am delayed rite now because I am getting married in a few weeks! Also the Lotus is getting some light work done to it but I cannot move the car rite now so no grinding or welding until I can push that car out of the garage again. I hope to get my transmission mount done soon. The front diff should be back soon and then I need to get the engine and trans tunnel going

[cobragt]

I know your pretty far off from the body work but I have a suggestion. A lot of people open up the hood on their cars to vent the hot air from the radiator. I've never seen anyone do it on a Charger and it has the perfect hood for it and since your engine is set so far back you wouldn't have to worry about it interfering with the scoops. Plus it would look cool.

[Motorcitydak]

Cobra, I totally agree. My thoughts are to mount the radiator in the stock location and put in big sheet metal ducting to vent all the cooling air rite out of those 2 recessed areas of the hood, which I have yet to get. I want the fiberglass one from aarqualityfiberglass.com just need the $$$.

Sucks that is has been 2.5 months since my last update but I am back on the Charger again. I got the front diff back, all shiny and nice looking packed with a 4.56 gear! I do not have a decent pic of it but it is there

I decided to cut down the adapters a little bit. The one side just stuck out for really no useful reason to me so off it went. I lost 2 studs but still have 10 left so I am confident it will be fine. There are only 2 studs and 3 cap screws that hold the plate to the trans tail shaft! I also finished up the counterbores for those cap screws. Added a few studs to the transfer case ring I made and finally I am happy to say that my adapter plates are finished

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/DSCF2571_zps8daf1a8e-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2571_zps8daf1a8e.jpg.html)

Also it all used to hit the floor here. I did not want to lose any more of the floor on my side of the car

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/DSCF2572_zps9ef5e65e-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2572_zps9ef5e65e.jpg.html)

I got to relieve myself of a bit more now unneeded body fat. These parts of the torsion bar crossmember were going to be in the way of my driveshaft and exhaust ideas

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/DSCF2576_zps4309fdf2-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2576_zps4309fdf2.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/DSCF2575_zps4c76774a-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2575_zps4c76774a.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/DSCF2574_zpscd097cd7-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2574_zpscd097cd7.jpg.html)

Speaking of the front driveshaft I have been working on that rite now. A local driveshaft shop with amazing talents is building it for me. They make every shaft used in NASCAR, if the space shuttle needed a driveshaft I would bet this is the place to make it. My front shaft is going to be 3 pieces. I got my hands on the center one rite now, just have to give them measurements of the front and rear now. I started off cutting out more of the floor

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/DSCF2579_zps110ba9d8-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2579_zps110ba9d8.jpg.html)

Here is my center section. It is basically 2 drive shaft stubs welded together with a pair of rubber cased carrier bearings. I still need the other yoke

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/DSCF2578_zpsc3942a70-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2578_zpsc3942a70.jpg.html)

Hung it from a ratchet strap to start working out how to mount it. The guys recommended attaching it to the drivetrain VS the body. I was not at a loss for mounting locations with the transmission and bell housing rite there

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/DSCF2580_zpsc58cc910-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2580_zpsc58cc910.jpg.html)

I started with one of the starter bolts and a bent piece of plate. Also lost a bit more of the floor

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/DSCF2582_zpsb0c1e7f7-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2582_zpsb0c1e7f7.jpg.html)

Mated that to one of the transmission bolts

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/DSCF2583_zps791862ec-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2583_zps791862ec.jpg.html)

and 2 more on the bottom side

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/DSCF2584_zpsd9b4f0ff-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2584_zpsd9b4f0ff.jpg.html)

With all that done, it was time to brace up the bracket

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/DSCF2588_zpscb70058d-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2588_zpscb70058d.jpg.html)

Had some time to kill so I got with the step drill and started bending up some 1 inch steel

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/DSCF2587_zpsd43d22e1-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2587_zpsd43d22e1.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/DSCF2585_zps12eba6f9-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2585_zps12eba6f9.jpg.html)

All said and done, I put the center back in place on its fancy ass new bracket. Looks like a turbo sitting rite there

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/DSCF2590_zpsffab1247-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2590_zpsffab1247.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/DSCF2591_zps18708200-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2591_zps18708200.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/DSCF2592_zps08b38806-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2592_zps08b38806.jpg.html)

[turboclevor]

dang... i saw this yesterday and couldn't think of anything to say. what is the name of the shop you used for your front axle, i would like to use them for my next project

[Motorcitydak]

Hey Brandon, glad you like it. The shop is called CCI driveline engineering & fabrication http://www.ccidriveline.com/

[tylercamaro]

hey! Car looks good just went through the whole thread. hope that driveshaft works like its suppose to for you!

[Motorcitydak]

Hey Tyler, thanks for checking in and glad you like it. Tyler is one of the guys at CCI that made the shaft for me, speaking of it here is the completed piece

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/DSCF2594_zps4c1bcc59-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2594_zps4c1bcc59.jpg.html)

and it has this billet piece to adapt my CV transfer case yoke to the bolt on U joint yoke of the driveshaft

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/DSCF2593_zps3f8a0f15-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2593_zps3f8a0f15.jpg.html)

[tylercamaro]

so gandering at your rear end it almost looks closely similar to that of a watts link setup but more extreme? what was the original plan for the interior and what not i mustve missed it.

[Motorcitydak]

Well it is a Watts link but with the bell crank mounted to the axle housing instead of the frame. It saves some weight by not having a large steel frame mounted to the chassis to carry the setup.

LOL, interior......There will not be much in there at all. Probably a roll cage, maybe some rear seats but I am not too sure about that with the cage in place. I do have the front seats. Aluminum sheet will make up some door and interior panels. I do plan to have something for audio but probably just an ipod connected to a very small amp and a few tiny speakers. I am also planning on some lizard skin inside and out. Both their sound and heat insulation.

I got that shaft installed, fits perfectly after more floor surgery

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/DSCF2595_zps47853e87-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2595_zps47853e87.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/DSCF2596_zps1ca96cf1-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2596_zps1ca96cf1.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/DSCF2597_zps14b720fe-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2597_zps14b720fe.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/DSCF2598_zps42aaee00-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2598_zps42aaee00.jpg.html)

[Pontiac Chris]

Steve, I am lost for words! Absolutely awesome fabrication and vision, can't wait for more.

Chris.

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks a lot Chris! I hope to be like you some day and get my car featured in PHR. I think yours looks great and has an awesome story behind it

[Pontiac Chris]

Im sure when she's done the Fox will be more than worthy of PHR or any car mag, I got lucky with mine, more for the story than the car. By the way, love the Lotus, I've always wanted to drive one, I bet its a go-kart for the street. Good luck with the build, I'm subscribed!

Chris.

[Motorcitydak]

Yeah I hope it will make it sooner or later. You are right about the Lotus, it is just a go kart with lights and a license plate, absolutely love that car! Were you ever around Hethel back in the UK? I would love to make it there some day. Glad you are subscribed, stay tuned I am currently working on the trans mount and transfer case skid plate

[Pontiac Chris]

I've never been to Hethel, a quick google has shown the Lotus Factory and Driving School are located there, which I assume is why you'd like to visit that part of East Anglia, and rightly so a factory tour sounds awesome. I used to live south west of there by about 90 miles not far from a town called Harlow, its amazing the things you take for granted and don't see when you live on top of them. Looking forward to more updates, dang you're making me feel lazy!

Chris.

[craigs73]

wow...the car is going to be awesome awd.........great vision....and i congratulate you on keeping your vision alive and making it happen...

[Motorcitydak]

Chris, yeah the Lotus factory is in Hethel, it's sort of a pilgrimage for Lotus guys to go see where the car was born. I wish I was in your shoes where the car was done (to an extent) and on the road. I think it has been 5 years that I have had this car

Thanks Craig! I went past the point of no return a long time ago and now I just keep pressing on, love your signature by the way!

[Pontiac Chris]

[QUOTE=Motorcitydak;1001341]Chris, yeah the Lotus factory is in Hethel, it's sort of a pilgrimage for Lotus guys to go see where the car was born. I wish I was in your shoes where the car was done (to an extent) and on the road. I think it has been 5 years that I have had this car

I had mine 7 years before I drove it, it was a rusty rolling shell when I bought it, so I feel your pain, having said that with the amount of fab work and uncharted territory your working thru 5 years is still impressive given this isn't your day job!

Chris.

[craigs73]

lol....thanks steve.......actually hahaha beaver is my last name sooooooo it kinda fits lmao

[Motorcitydak]

As promised I got to work on the trans mount. It is not done yet but is about half way there. Because I am mounting it solid to the trans, I am using rubber bushings in the sleeves. They are mounted pretty far away from the trans itself so I am confident that it will be plenty rigid coupled with the poly bushings up at the engine.

I put some strips on my 2nd tail shaft and got started making the mount. It does look odd because the tail actually sits 30 degrees off of level. I tacked my mount 10 degrees off from the tail

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/DSCF2601_zps4d7f08cc-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2601_zps4d7f08cc.jpg.html)

This pic may look a bit odd because of the bent pieces, I did thin down the middle drilled piece and curved in the vertical strips

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/DSCF2602_zps1a094f51-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2602_zps1a094f51.jpg.html)

Turns out that I like making pieces out of drilled and bent up 1/8 plate

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/DSCF2603_zps61b7baef-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2603_zps61b7baef.jpg.html)

I have not put my finger on what kind of animal this looks like, what do you guys think?

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/DSCF2604_zps137ab6a5-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2604_zps137ab6a5.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/DSCF2605_zps3b1eb0dc-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2605_zps3b1eb0dc.jpg.html)

Here is a look at it back on the car. I will put a bracket on the car, welded to the floor pan with a plate to distribute the load. This is rite by the seat mount area so it should be strong. The other side will probably go all the way to the frame rail connector after it goes under the driveshaft. I could not do that on the drivers side because I needed room for the exhaust, which I am currently thinking more about. It is next up on the to do list. Rite now I am trying to find a source for exhaust flanges for a Eagle 5.7 Hemi, please let me know if you know of any. I found a place that makes tons of them, I may send them my exhaust gaskets to have it added to their catalog

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/DSCF2606_zps06771ae0-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2606_zps06771ae0.jpg.html)

I do have another trick up my sleeve that I will be working on that the same time as the new headers, feel free to guess at it. Even if its not what I have in mind, may give me a new idea!

[turboclevor]

it looks like a mountain ram

[Pontiac Chris]

I was thinking Gila Monster. I like the drilled look, it looks very time consuming, but well worth effort.

[Motorcitydak]

Gotta say that I am leaning more towards the gila monster, probably just because it is named a monster! Looks even more like one now with the work I did on it today. Glad you like the drilled look Chris. I think I am going to count all the holes I drilled just to see how much weight I did remove from the mount. It may not be much but if I keep doing it, it all will add up

Started off by making the passenger side frame mount. This will go on the frame rail connector that I put in a few years ago. (If you guys like these bushings, they are Moog K3194 and cost between $3 and $5, they were leaf spring bushings in a few AMC applications in the 80's. I really like them because they are all rubber, fit into a 1 inch ID tube and the ends have a 1.25 flange with a lot of cushion in between the bracket and bushing tube. These are the same ones I used on my front diff. They are for a 2.25 inch wide sleeve but I have been cutting them down to fit 1.75.)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/DSCF2607_zpsae33faf6-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2607_zpsae33faf6.jpg.html)

...like so

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/DSCF2608_zps84a5eb11-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2608_zps84a5eb11.jpg.html)

Gave the gila monster its tail

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/DSCF2609_zpsfbf747d4-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2609_zpsfbf747d4.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/DSCF2610_zps46d62b1d-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2610_zps46d62b1d.jpg.html)

and some.....errr...wedding tackle

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/DSCF2611_zps3541d264-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2611_zps3541d264.jpg.html)

If it looks like a wang, that is because it is supposed to

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/DSCF2612_zps5a5ce3cc-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2612_zps5a5ce3cc.jpg.html)

Even gave it a head. That bracket got welded to the drivers side floor pan. I had this tube 2.5 inches wide just to leave the bushings full size so this end has some more cushion being that it is closer to the transmission.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/DSCF2613_zpsb11b05fd-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2613_zpsb11b05fd.jpg.html)

I think I put the wang on backwards, o well it works alright this way too I guess

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/DSCF2614_zpsa67f7b13-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2614_zpsa67f7b13.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/DSCF2615_zps9896916d-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2615_zps9896916d.jpg.html)

Here is the reason for it, skid plate to protect my transfer case from something like a speed bump or steep ramp. I do not want to waste it, hopefully this will help. Do you guys think it will do or should I not bolt it to the transfer case? Instead I could do one that would mount to the floor just behind the case.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/DSCF2616_zps0a08ab39-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2616_zps0a08ab39.jpg.html)

And finally I got to remove that wood support and ratchet strap that had been holding the trans up for the longest time. I was pretty happy here

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/06/DSCF2617_zpsd4f7c499-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2617_zpsd4f7c499.jpg.html)

[mitch_04]

This thread is epic. It is not only a crazy idea to start with, but the fact it is being done in a garage by an "average Joe" makes it even greater. Parts from every brand, executed with style.... I love seeing the updates! I blame this forum for the ideas in my head gradually becoming more and more "crazy". Can't wait to see it make its way to being finished, although that term in itself is hardly used here.

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks a lot Mitch, I am almost blushing. Before I had the Charger, I spent about 7 years building that '96 Dakota that I have. Took it apart about 10 times. The good thing is that I became very familiar with 4wd systems. This is just my way to merge the two different worlds together. Also watching a car oversteer around a corner while countersteering makes me crazy. There is so much available traction at those front wheels that is just not being used. Let them provide some more forward force and you will go way faster around a corner

I really wanted to do a build and update the thread a lot because it is the kind of stuff that I like to sit and read about. Like that Astro Van or the Volvo being built. I like to follow along, almost seems like I am there with those guys helping out. I think that is also helps others see that you do not have to build a blank check car by just dropping it off at a pro shop and let them do all the work. If you have a welder, there are no limits! Dream big and follow thru. While a lot of parts are expensive, I have saved loads of money by doing this all myself. That trans mount has cost me maybe $25 in metal, welding and cutting materials. Even if there was on off the shelf part I could have used or adapted, it would have been 10 times as much. I have to build my own headers next and I am planning to spend no more than $200 on those not counting sending them out for ceramic coating.

I too blame forums like this for my builds. Almost takes 'keeping up with the Jones' to a new level. Like you said, they will never be finished. I have plans for work to this that take me easily into the next 3-4 years. It may be on the road before that but it is so hard to say that it is 'done.'

[72BBSwinger]

I think it is awesome! And a huge undertaking! The T-case skid, IMO I think an aluminum bellypan would be better bolted from rail to rail. Also to protect the driveshafts too. Make it sit as flush as possible with a few countersunk allen bolts. Just an idea, nothing that needs tackled until after you're driving the thing of course!

[Buryingthesun]

suck an awsome back yard build!

[ryeguy2006a]

I have commented before, but I will say it again. Just absolutely awesome. Not only the fab work, but tthe way you were able to research different OEM parts to work together is just awesome. 4 wheel burnouts?

[Motorcitydak]

I do want to have a sheet of aluminum covering the entire underbody just like you described. That one part of the transfer case hangs a little below the frame rail connectors tho. I am thinking of just tapping some holes into the connectors and using button heads instead of countersinking, the sheet metal will be too thin for that.

Thanks Buryingthesun and ryeguy. I will give it hell to spin all 4 wheels, I have to wonder if 400hp will be enough to that tho....more power may be somewhere down the line

[Motorcitydak]

Ok so I added up all the holes I drilled in the trans mount. I put some of the smaller ones together and just counted a couple as one large hole. I typically went to the 11th step on my step drill bit which is 7/16. I counted 64 holes total meaning that I drilled the equivalent of a 7/16 x 8 inch long bar of steel out of my trans mount, that comes out to a volume of 1.19 cubic inches. The weight of mild steel is approx 0.2833lb per ci meaning that I lightened my mount my 0.33 pounds. To me it is worth the weight and time involved so I will continue doing it.

I am having some delays getting my exhaust flanges so I am switched gears for rite now to the steering column. I had my eye on the tilt column summit racing offers for $270. I was about to order it when I figured I would check around some more to see what else is available. Glad that I did because I ended up finding the exact same thing from lots of vendors. Best price I was able to find was $169 shipped! Only problem is that it is chrome.....I hate chrome..... I will be scuffing it and painting it flat black or something but at least rite now I have no concerns for scratching it or getting it dirty.

I started out by putting my mock up steering wheel and column back in with the drivers seat in place so I could see what length column I needed. They are available in 28, 30 and 32 inch lengths. I needed the 32. I also stuck a piece of shaft into the shifter location that I will be using to try that out. Its a little far back rite now but I can just build my own shifter that will put the end up farther then be good to go!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/DSCF2630_zps7d7b9ca0-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2630_zps7d7b9ca0.jpg.html)

I also have been working on the front drive assembly. I need a custom center shaft made up so I cut both of the ones I have and welded together a mock up. I will send this out to someone to make me a good one.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/DSCF2629_zps15692784-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2629_zps15692784.jpg.html)

Here is the stupid chrome I now have on my car.....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/DSCF2637_zps667d4d75-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2637_zps667d4d75.jpg.html)

I had to redo the column mount because my new one is 2 inches, Mopar looks like they used a 2.5 incher. Some 2 inch ID exhaust tubing and sheet metal took care of that issue after I ground the factory flange off. The bottom piece is sheet metal bent to fit the column and has a piece of 1/4 bar welded to that to add strength

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/DSCF2638_zps844805ce-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2638_zps844805ce.jpg.html)

I have the firewall support bearing thingy on its way rite now. Ill be getting a wheel soon too. Hopefully some exhaust flanges as well, please let me know if you are aware of a flange for the Eagle head ('09 and up) 5.7L Hemi.

I have been having issues with finding a starter as well. I tired to ask quick time what I need and they just said that I need a stock application one, well that doesn't fit. Neither does a Mopar mini starter. My engine plate has a 2 inch index hole for the starter to pass thru, the mini starter is like 2.8 and the stock starter is about the same....WTF?!!!!? Any help here? I cannot do much with those header flanges if I do not have a starter in place

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/DSCF2632_zps4c02541a-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2632_zps4c02541a.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/DSCF2633_zpsc93d4146-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2633_zpsc93d4146.jpg.html)

[jckinthebox]

Easily one of the coolest builds ive ever seen, i am now officially more excited to see this car completed than my own..

[Martin71RS]

Steve, I've been following your build for a while now, love what you are doing!

One safety warning on cheap tilt columns and their quality, please read the following file/test:
http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_01-2013_Unsafe_Aftermarket_Steering_Columns.pdf

Martin

[Motorcitydak]

Martin, Thanks a lot for that link. I was not aware of problems like that. I will have to take this column apart to have a look around. If I end up finding junk like that, which I assume that I will, then I will have no choice but to replace it later on. Ill just use it for mock up rite now.

Glad that you guys are liking what I have been up to!

Edit: So I read that article about the column's, not something that i liked at all. Seems like I had what they were describing. I began taking mine apart but stopped. I kept thinking about the guy that went for the first ride around the block and it failed. There are 2 systems on any vehicle that always need to work: The steering and the brakes. I am not prepared to take a risk on those. I will be sending this column back and will get something else. Summit has a nice looking brushed stainless steel one from flaming river for $350. I'll probably pick that one up once I get my money back from this one that I assume is garbage. Thanks again for the heads up Martin, you may have saved my life!

[speedfreak68]

I've got the one from flaming river for my charger. It seems like a very nice unit, I'm very pleased with it. I assume you will be building your own mount, but just for info you have to order it separately.... Car is looking good, keep up the good work!!

[Jetfixr320]

Is there a chance that the hole for the starter was drilled wrong?

[Motorcitydak]

I have to assume that is possible but I hesitate to try to enlarge it. I am not even sure how to go about that, seems like a giant step drill would be the only way to assure that the hole remains on center.

Glad you like your flaming river speed freak! My plans are to put in a flat piece in the firewall then mount one of the steering column floor support pieces. I just got one, billet aluminum. The machine work on it is beautiful!

Martin, I sent back that steering column I had. Thanks again for that link. Once I started looking into other ones to use, I just had to go with the aluminum one. I now have a billet specialties column on the way. Should be here next week so I can mount that one. I am hoping to save some weight with this aluminum bodied one. I weighed that steel one at 12.5 pounds

When I was getting my driveshaft done, among the conversations was how all the angles had to be the same for all the flanges. Well when I was mounting my front diff I thought I would have a CV at the front. I placed it where it would not interfere with anything but now with singles joints it matters big time. All my other flanges are at 2 degrees. My front diff was sitting at 7.....yeah not good. Unfortunately that meant redoing the front diff mounts for what has to be like the 6th time now

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/DSCF2639_zps7735edb3-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2639_zps7735edb3.jpg.html)

This time it is all sitting in a perfect spot. Enough clearance around everything and now at the correct angle. I did angle the diff slightly so that the drivers side CV is moved just slightly backwards. I need some clearance for my steering shaft and u joints there too ya know... It is only about 1 degree so the driveshaft should be fine. But I made new mounts yet again except for the front one. I just cut off the tube and a little off the bracket then welded a new tube onto it

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/DSCF2640_zpsee60824e-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2640_zpsee60824e.jpg.html)

[Motorcitydak]

A huge thank you goes out to 72BBSwinger for helping me on my starter situation. I had emailed Quick Time about what starter I needed. They just told me to use the stock application one. Well I have a 5.7 Hemi from a Ram pick up truck. So I got a starter for one of those. Not even close to fitting. Then I got a Mopar mini starter since those are used in just about anything. Well that didn't work either. Turns out that QT should have told me to get a starter from a 5.7L Challenger/Charger/300. I just picked up one today from a junk yard. Looks like I picked up the dirtiest one I could find. The other 2 I had were brand new but I did not want to spend a lot of $ on this one in case it also didn't fit. So I will rebuild this one and clean it up. It is hard to tell in this picture but the starter also clears my front driveshaft by about 3/8 of an inch or so. I am pretty happy with that but do you guys think that I should space the shaft out a bit further? I have some more 1/4 and 3/8 aluminum sitting around that I can toss in there.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/DSCF2642_zpsfa3781d5-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2642_zpsfa3781d5.jpg.html)

My new steering column finally shipped yesterday which is annoying, I had hoped to have it today. I also bought a really sweet steering wheel, should be here tomorrow.

I went to a local sheet metal shop and am having them make up a transmission tunnel and engine cover for me in 16ga, should be done tomorrow or so.

I picked up another oil pan while I was getting the starter. I am going to be modifying this one because I believe that oil systems should be dry. It will be a bit of a pain but I think will be worth it in the end. I need the room for my exhaust to pass under the engine and also rite now the oil pan is by far the lowest hanging thing on the car which I am not happy about. Work will be starting on this shortly. What size tubing and AN fitting should i be using here? I want to get 3 bungs and weld them to the pan, front middle and rear on the drivers side

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/07/DSCF2643_zps2926d58f-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2643_zps2926d58f.jpg.html)

I know that I am calling this car 'Silver Fox' but my thoughts now are that I really have always liked metallic blue's. I also already have a metallic silver car. It looks really nice but I am thinking I want something else now too. I am not going to change the car's name because it still applies but am pretty sure that it will end up being a really nice shade of blue. What do you guys think of that? and I'd love to see some pics or links to paints. I had been looking at the 2 stage stuff from Summit. I am a long time away from paint but I can always look....

[Motorcitydak]

So I did not notice this before but now looking at that picture of the oil pan I got, it is warped. The pan had been put back on at one time and someone went insane with the RTV on it. These motors are not even supposed to have any RTV on there. The gasket is rubber and reusable (as are almost every other gasket on this engine!). The junk yard guys just smashed a screwdriver in there and pried my new one off, bending it in the process...so I took the one off my engine and am using that one instead. Too bad that I cut up the new one before noticing this issue.

Here is a new 5.7 Hemi with out an oil pan on, yep windage tray is stock. The gasket is molded into it so it is all 1 piece

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/DSCF2648_zps4e593b9a-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2648_zps4e593b9a.jpg.html)

I spent my garage time today working on that oil pan, making it ready to be as dry as a desert. I cut up the other pan and started rebuilding it, just a lot differently this time. Here I put one piece of sheet metal on

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/DSCF2649_zpsd74b130d-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2649_zpsd74b130d.jpg.html)

followed by a second larger one

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/DSCF2650_zpsbf279e36-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2650_zpsbf279e36.jpg.html)

then a third little one on the end

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/DSCF2655_zps4a9a00ff-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2655_zps4a9a00ff.jpg.html)


I left this side as is for rite now because I still have to deal with the oil pick up tube. That will have a AN fitting welded to it and a piece of hose then a bulkhead fitting to go thru the oil pan, then its off to the tank.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/DSCF2652_zpscd241589-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2652_zpscd241589.jpg.html)

The one side will get 5 of these guys put in from the inside. They are ARP billet steel AN-12 fittings I got from Summit, they are a lot bigger than I was expecting. Now i believe that a 5 stage pump is probably overkill for this engine. I am just putting in 5 now, may plug up 2 and just run a 3 stage depending on what I can get my hands on

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/DSCF2653_zpsc8837853-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2653_zpsc8837853.jpg.html)

Like so

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/DSCF2654_zpse5d6aa7f-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2654_zpse5d6aa7f.jpg.html)

Here is the windage tray inside my new oil pan. Oil will flow under it and into one of the pickups

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/DSCF2656_zpsa2b5cbc9-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2656_zpsa2b5cbc9.jpg.html)

Check out my wicked amounts of clearance now! It is important for me because my exhaust pipes need to pass under the engine to get to the drivers side where they will merge

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/DSCF2661_zps7facd683-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2661_zps7facd683.jpg.html)

Showing the rear 3 pickups that will be behind the bar for my engine mounts

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/DSCF2662_zps729f65b6-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2662_zps729f65b6.jpg.html)

and the front 2. Also you can see 5 mounting locations that I can use for a mount for the dry sump oil pump. I will probably end up using the front 2 that were for the A/C compressor which will not be making a comeback.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/DSCF2663_zps2d8fa3e2-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2663_zps2d8fa3e2.jpg.html)

Here are the pieces of metal I had bent up by a really cool local sheet metal shop. They also make custom fuel tanks in any shape or size you can think of. Just as a ball park figure, I asked for a price on a 16 gallon tank. Without all the details, he said around $325!! If you guys are interested in their work, contact em http://www.kehrigmetalfab.com/

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/DSCF2664_zps14ae73ff-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2664_zps14ae73ff.jpg.html)

I also got these BEAUTIFUL 3/8 thick header flanges from SPD exhaust. Almost a shame to start to weld pipes to these. Turns out the new Eagle 5.7 Hemi uses the same flanges as a 6.1/6.4 Hemi. Only issue is that the passenger side one does not cover up the EGR hole. Headers will begin taking shape next week

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/DSCF2665_zpseabb3af0-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2665_zpseabb3af0.jpg.html)

I'll be back at it tomorrow working on the oil pick up tube and finishing up the oil pan

[Motorcitydak]

Wrapped up the oil pan. All that is left now is to add in the 5 fittings. I do not yet have a hole saw in the correct size, will be getting that this weekend. Sadly i will be spending ALL weekend at work so no more progress until Monday.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/DSCF2666_zps651e30d9-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2666_zps651e30d9.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/DSCF2667_zps3cb22fcc-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2667_zps3cb22fcc.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/DSCF2671_zps2f44afd3-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2671_zps2f44afd3.jpg.html)

Started work on the oil pick up too but I still need to order the AN fittings to finish this up. All I did here was cut the tube off then weld it 90 degrees off

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/DSCF2668_zps4dbe0482-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2668_zps4dbe0482.jpg.html)

Steering column came in too. Now my problem is that my mounts are for a 2 inch column, this one is 1 7/8. I did save 3 pounds with this aluminum one VS the other one I had

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/DSCF2669_zpsd33e85f8-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2669_zpsd33e85f8.jpg.html)

[Gojeep]

Have you leaked tested the pan? An old way is to rub the outside seams with chalk and then fill the pan with boiling water so it opens up any pin holes in the metal. You will notice the wet chalk easier than wet metal.

[Motorcitydak]

I have not yet tested it but I will for sure try out that method, thanks a lot. Do you think soap stone would work on the outside? I have a soap stone pen that I use to mark the metal but no chalk at the moment, not a big deal to get some tho. The pan is not yet done but I have been trying to make sure that it is all good. I have shined a light at all the seams and fixed any holes that I have found that way so far. I was also thinking about if there is any kind of sealer that I could spread on the inside that could fill and pin holes that I may have missed, maybe something like a thin RTV. Does something like that exist?

[Olav]

Talcum powder, for kids

[dangina]

cool build - can't wait to see more of this!

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks! Stay tuned, more coming this week!

I have decided that I am going to send those AN fittings back to summit and get some male ones. With these O ring seal ones, I would either have to put in adapters or have the fitting non-indexable, it would just be clocked to where ever it tightens to. Just easier to change the fittings now VS dealing with the headaches later on

[rsk68]

http://www.tdsleakseal.com/oil-leak-detection-products.htm

Try this stuff for leak testing!

[Motorcitydak]

Will have to check into that stuff some more, just wish that I did not have to buy 12 sticks of it. Maybe it is available retail some where. Still have yet to leak test the pan.

Monday was a bust for the car too, ended up not sleeping at all Sunday night because of work. Came home 3 hours late and just wandered around till I passed out.

Good news is that I did finally get out to the garage yesterday do work on the exhaust. I have to admit that I felt bad cutting up those really nice header flanges. It went to a good cause tho. Turns out that these headers are going to take a really long time to make and be very complex. Glad that I actually enjoy making them because I will be doing these for the next week if not more. Each pipe is taking me 2-3 hours.

Here is the first one I did, for the #2 cyl

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/DSCF2672_zps49c613e3-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2672_zps49c613e3.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/DSCF2673_zpsa7b3e89a-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2673_zpsa7b3e89a.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/DSCF2674_zps7956c5fc-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2674_zps7956c5fc.jpg.html)

and the 2nd one which is where I stopped, this is for #4

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/DSCF2675_zpsa1e1010b-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2675_zpsa1e1010b.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/2a85631577314d8ba77be2e2ddc446fb_zpscc4f-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/2a856315-7731-4d8b-a77b-e2e2ddc446fb_zpscc4f8ab4.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/DSCF2677_zps3f9f9f66-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2677_zps3f9f9f66.jpg.html)

These will be 180 degree headers so I am merging them with their opposite firing cylinder which of course have to be on the opposite bank. Rite now I am working on merging 2 with 3 and 4 with 7. Both tubes will probably stop where they are now until I get 6 and 8 over there too then keep working. I think I will use slip joints to connect everything. I am using a pipe kit I got from Summit which is just a bunch of random 1 5/8 18ga tubing with mandrel bends. Supposed to be over 30 feet of tubing. I have to say that I am happy with what I got.

[Motorcitydak]

Cyl's 6 and 8 are done. The pipes are not very organized under the oil pan but I needed to spread them out a little so I can slip the next ends onto them. The pictures do not do this setup justice, there is really no room where those 3 pipes pass thru. If I would have done 1.75 it would not have fit. The pipes may be touching in the some areas but they do not touch anything else. About 1/4 clearance to the starter, driveshaft and engine block. The pipes will get some exhaust coating inside and out to keep as much heat as possible inside them. Also I realize that my pipes will not be equal length, I am just building what I can make fit here. Too many things way too close to try to get everything the same. Next I will be working on the drivers side

Fishing #8 in there was for sure the biggest challenge
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/DSCF2679_zps1fc1bd8e-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2679_zps1fc1bd8e.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/DSCF2682_zps56533297-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2682_zps56533297.jpg.html)

[speedfreak68]

180 degree headers!!! You are the man! I'd love to hear this thing when it's done! Keep up the good work!

[Motorcitydak]

Me too! Can't wait! I think that the first time I fire it up I will have the headers open just to hear that roar! I will of course video that one and put it up on here

[Motorcitydak]

So I had been thinking that I had another 3 days on the exhaust but I busted my butt and got a lot of it knocked out. It also helped that I was no longer putting 5 or 6 bends into one pipe. Most were done with 2 and then I just had to attach where the other pipe comes in. So, here we go, all the drivers side pipes are done and tied together. I still have to wrap up all this mess into 2. I will run dual 2 inch pipes out to the back of the car. If that sounds small, just keep in mind that I really just have 2 200hp 4cyl's going here. I want to keep exhaust velocity up.

Cyl #1

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/DSCF2683_zps6added6a-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2683_zps6added6a.jpg.html)

tied into cyl #6

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/DSCF2684_zpse95afce5-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2684_zpse95afce5.jpg.html)

cyl #3 tied into 6 iirc

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/DSCF2685_zpsb9848701-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2685_zpsb9848701.jpg.html)

cyl#7

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/DSCF2686_zps3a54f608-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2686_zps3a54f608.jpg.html)

tied to #1 iirc

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/DSCF2687_zps80d54b74-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2687_zps80d54b74.jpg.html)

and lastly #7

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/DSCF2688_zpsd42cd85b-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2688_zpsd42cd85b.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/DSCF2689_zpsfa968724-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2689_zpsfa968724.jpg.html)

all done

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/DSCF2690_zps646229c7-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2690_zps646229c7.jpg.html)

Next I will turn all the pipes towards the back and merge the 4 into 2

This is the sound that I am after with these headers

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MSZTbR6C6Lw

[Motorcitydak]

My bundle of snakes is fully grown! Took a day less than I had assumed and now I have just the regular ole 2 pipes finally

Started off by adding a few more bends to some pipes to make the 2 sets that have to merge match each other in angles (if that even made any sense)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/DSCF2692_zps6fd4cca1-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2692_zps6fd4cca1.jpg.html)

Here is what I was referring too, the 2 enter here and come out in a single 2 incher

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/DSCF2693_zpsc893d783-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2693_zpsc893d783.jpg.html)

Then made the other one......

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/DSCF2695_zps6d10949a-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2695_zps6d10949a.jpg.html)

and realized that I had put the 2 inch section on the wrong way. I knew that it had to be in line with 1 of the pipes coming in, just mixed up which one that was, so I got to re-do it

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/DSCF2696_zpsd4e2e1b0-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2696_zpsd4e2e1b0.jpg.html)

Here they are, all wrapped up. All I need to do now is fit pinch bolts onto my sleeve sections then some day send them off for coating. I am all ears for suggestions as to who to have coat these or what I should have done. Color wise I am thinking a light grey so I can keep an eye out for cracking or leaks

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/DSCF2697_zps88f77ce6-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2697_zps88f77ce6.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/08/DSCF2699_zps464babbf-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2699_zps464babbf.jpg.html)

[69*Goat]

Gives a new meaning to "Pit of Vipers". Nice work!! That is one thing that I am going to have to learn how to do...weld.

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks a lot Goat! I am very anxious to hear how this thing sounds when it finally comes to life!

These next few updates span the last few days of work. I am currently working on the interior of the car, trying to separate the drivetrain from the passenger compartment. I got a local sheet metal company to make me the engine and transmission tunnel pieces from 16ga sheet metal. I have recently been working on installing them into the car. I had a fair bit of work to do to the top of the engine cover because of the PCV housing that sits on the top of my intake manifold. Also the lower cowl panel of the car itself comes down a bit so I had to work around that. I did consider the wheel barrow method for this but the curves just would not work for me with the length of engine that I needed to cover.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/DSCF2737_zps6cae2136-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2737_zps6cae2136.jpg.html)

The trans tunnel had to be cut for the transfer case

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/DSCF2739_zpsb4facf12-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2739_zpsb4facf12.jpg.html)

This is all from the first days work, got the drivers side almost completely welded up. Once all (and I do mean ALLLLLL) the welding is completed all seams will be covered with seam sealer of some kind, and recommendations? I would like something light weight if that exists

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/DSCF2740_zpsbd9ec37b-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2740_zpsbd9ec37b.jpg.html)

I was able to get a decent amount of panels done with the sheet metal I had but knew I needed more. A trip back to that metal shop landed me this huge piece of 16 gauge for $20! It is 2.5x5 feet and will be way more than I will need

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/DSCF2741_zps532aad7a-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2741_zps532aad7a.jpg.html)

I turned my attention to the steering column for a bit so I could finally wrap that up. I had to get a different column mount because the billet specialties one is 1 7/8 vs the 2 inch column I had before. This one needed a 2 3/4 hole in the firewall

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/DSCF2742_zpsbe87d101-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2742_zpsbe87d101.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/DSCF2743_zpsf630509f-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2743_zpsf630509f.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/DSCF2745_zps11b4df75-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2745_zps11b4df75.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/DSCF2747_zps80bdaac3-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2747_zps80bdaac3.jpg.html)

Then got to work more on covering up the engine. I also cut out the hole for the shifter

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/DSCF2748_zps14bc7c3a-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2748_zps14bc7c3a.jpg.html)

I realized that if I had any aspirations of having a front seat passenger that my transfer case covering had to be a bit more compact. I am not done yet but hope to be either tomorrow of early next week

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/DSCF2749_zps72bb0071-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2749_zps72bb0071.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/DSCF2750_zps58337344-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2750_zps58337344.jpg.html)

The design of this trans tunnel actually should increase the torsional rigidity of the chassis but I am not really counting on that too much. I will like the roll cage to take that load more than the tunnel.

After I wrap this up I will be working on mounting my pedals. I have to cut out the floor in the foot area because my pedal assembly mounts to the floor and requires a flat area to mount to

[Motorcitydak]

So here is where I am now, 2 days of work on the pedals. I also patched up every stupid little hole in the trans tunnel so that is complete now. I had to cut out a lot more of the firewall to get these pedals to fit. I am using Tilton's triple master floor mount setup. Looking at it now, I could have used the firewall mount with reverse mount masters but I like this setup more anyway. The final setup was my 3rd attempt. First one did not go so well. I had them mounted then put in the seat and steering wheel. The pedals were in terrible locations, way too far back. I had my knee's bent around the wheel and I would have hated it long before I would get out of my driveway. The 4 holes in the floor are where the pedals were mounted and the mount by the steering column was where my drive by wire throttle pedal was, also in a terrible spot

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/DSCF2754_zps1dfcf846-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2754_zps1dfcf846.jpg.html)

Take 3! finally got em in a nice spot, very comfortable where they are now. I do think that I will have to put a 1 or 2 inch block on the floor for my heel to rest on so I can get my toe up a bit higher. Also the stock pedal was annoying so I cut it off and made my own and screwed it on. This particular pedal came from my Hemi Dakota after it failed so I will need a new one anyway. I just kept this one around for possible mock up proposes

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/DSCF2759_zpsc859531f-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2759_zpsc859531f.jpg.html)

I am still working on boxing up the pedal assembly. Good news is that with the tire in place I still have about an inch and a half of clearance here

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/DSCF2760_zpsf66e400a-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2760_zpsf66e400a.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/09/DSCF2761_zps3f0b4906-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2761_zps3f0b4906.jpg.html)

[SS PUNISHER]

Can't wait to hear this thing with those headers!

[Motorcitydak]

Me too SS. I have made a decision that I will have this car running by my birthday next year which is Sept 25th. I am not too concerned about body work by that time but I want to drive it. This is going to be difficult but I think it may be possible as long as I keep working on it steadily. I do have that pedal box just about completely wrapped up now. I am thinking that the roll cage should be the next thing to go in

[Motorcitydak]

So after a bit of a break, I am starting to get back on the car. Up next is the roll cage. I started on the landing pads for the main hoop and A pillar bars. So far I have only the passenger side main hoop in. I had to peel back some other pieces of sheet metal to get to the rocker. I put a piece of 6x6 plate here and the main hoop with land partially on the top then the rest will be on the part that slopes down

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/10/DSCF2803_zps205b726f-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2803_zps205b726f.jpg.html)

I know it is a slow start but it is something, more work to come hopefully but that depends on the weather. I did take delivery of 5 sticks of 1.75 0.120 DOM and just setup my bender again. I also have a piece of my front drive setup on the way

I also was going to buy one of those tubing contour gauges but now I have a better idea. I will just use some kabob skewers held on with rubber bands then use a piece of paper taped around the tube and trace out the contour of the area

[dodgedartgt]

Hi Steve,

I'm a newbie to the forums here. For your tube notching for the cage, here are three different programs to try. The first two are freeware and the third has a free evaluation. Enter your tube sizes, wall thickness, angle, etc and then print a template that you simply wrap around the tube and trace the cut.

http://www.ozhpv.org.au/shed/tubemiter.htm
http://home.tallships.ca/mspencer/winmiter.html
http://www.harderwoods.com/pipetemplate.php

Hope it helps,
Mike in FL

[Motorcitydak]

Wow, thanks a lot Mike! really appreciate that

[Motorcitydak]

Got some more work done on the roll cage install. I put the 6x6 plate onto the drivers side, nothing special about that. I also began bending up the tubing I just got. This is the first piece and it became the main hoop. It was a bit tense trying to make sure all the bends were in the correct place and angles. Had to bend a few corners a bit more but thankfully I did not have to scrap this piece of tube since the stuff is not cheap. I welded that piece of angle iron to the tube so I had a reference to be sure that my bends were on the same plane

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/DSCF2804_zpsf5f13218-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2804_zpsf5f13218.jpg.html)

Ended up fitting really well

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/DSCF2805_zps6e52d1f1-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2805_zps6e52d1f1.jpg.html)

Next I started on the A pillar bar, cut the notch first using a cheapo Eastwood tubing notcher. Then it was a bit difficult because I had to twist the tube to keep the bar close to the car's A pillar. I got it wrong here because I was trying to build the passenger side bar. O well, it just became the drivers one. I am planning to cut the tube just below the bottom bend so that I can tip the main hoop forward to weld the top of that joint. Then put a piece of 1.5 0.120 DOM into the joint, put in a few plug welds and then weld the seam. I am planning to do the same for the C pillar bars

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/DSCF2806_zps525db9ee-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2806_zps525db9ee.jpg.html)

Fits great! The plate to tie in the A pillar will be nice and small, looks like not even room for the common dimple die'd plate. Which is good since I do not have dimple dies

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/DSCF2807_zps10eaab15-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2807_zps10eaab15.jpg.html)

In other area's I also got my custom made center shaft made by Steve at Hudlow Axle. They were great to work with and after a few phone calls and packages sent I got exactly what I needed

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/DSCF2808_zpsc310c53a-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2808_zpsc310c53a.jpg.html)

I am going to keep the work going on the cage next week, hope to have it done by the end of the month

[Motorcitydak]

After doing the main hoop I realized that I should have welded that piece of angle iron to the other side of the tube, it was a PITA to try to measure it after I began putting bends on different planes for the A pillar bars. Speaking of that I did the passenger side A pillar tube. I also cut both of them and got a piece of 1.5 0.120 DOM to fit inside. I drilled some holes for plug welds. I decided to put this seam up by the pillar because with it up here it will also be braced by the plate between the pillar and tube. It will be visible but that does not bother me. I will be doing the same thing for the forward bars, welding them together like that. With this whole piece of the A pillar bar free I can weld on the stub for the forward bars, remove it from the car to weld all around then put it back in, put the sleeve in and weld it solid

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/DSCF2810_zps3f49aaf8-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2810_zps3f49aaf8.jpg.html)

Also I am planning the C pillar bars. Reading the rules,(depending on what ones you read) I can have 1 bend and it does not specify what plane they are on. I want mine to follow this piece of rope so they pass thru the C pillar of the car then attach to the rear frame rail. Doing this should keep my rear seat open to at least 1 person. I know this is a hot topic but Mopar B bodies are huge cars that I cannot imagine being limited to only 2 people. I am still planning door bars, just sideways Y ones

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/DSCF2811_zps5a226568-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2811_zps5a226568.jpg.html)

[sccacuda]

If you haven't put the floor plates in yet, you can use a hole saw to put a hole under each leg of the hoop and forward bars. You can slip the plate under the bar and get the cage where you want and tack. Slip the plates back out and drop the cage down through the holes and you have access to weld the top. You won't have to slug the bars this way and you have a full weld around each joint. You can also make the cage super tight to the roof.

[Motorcitydak]

Hey Craig, I had read about that method of allowing the tubes to pass thru the floor. I just did not want to lose any more foot well space than I already have, especially on the passenger side. Not that I will ever be over on that side, I just do not want to hear my passengers complaining about it. I put the tube rite on top of the rocker.

I have kept working on my cage, rite now I am on the forward bars and the C pillar's

The forward bars are pretty easy, just a notch, a decent length and a 45 degree bend

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/DSCF2813_zps9c9f603f-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2813_zps9c9f603f.jpg.html)

These are the areas they will pass thru, the tire is at full bump so I know I will not have any rubbing issues. You can sort of see the A pillar bar thru those holes

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/DSCF2814_zps5d21585a-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2814_zps5d21585a.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/DSCF2817_zpsc7ef15da-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2817_zpsc7ef15da.jpg.html)

then the same ole cut, bevel, drill and slug method to allow me the full weld around the a pillar joint. This cut is just about 3 inches forward of the firewall so I can have decent access. I will weld plates into those holes to fill em once the tubes are locked in

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/DSCF2818_zps8fd9c9d4-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2818_zps8fd9c9d4.jpg.html)

These are going to be the C pillar bars, did not get very far on them just yet but they pass thru that same area as the rope did. I also cut out the two square cut outs to allow room for the bars. Then the deck lid hinge brackets need to get trimmed to allow the tubes to go where they need to

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/DSCF2819_zps5d0fdf62-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2819_zps5d0fdf62.jpg.html)

[Zachalanche]

cage is looking good.

[Motorcitydak]

Zach, thanks man. Don't you have a car you should be working on tho. I've been waiting for some updates on that car, really like what you are doing there.

I am still working on the cage but have another update from the work I did over the last few days. I beveled all the edges to be welded so I have a nice spot. With it all in there, I put the plates on the landing area's for the A pillar bars. They were a bit complex but I did enjoy making them. Then I tack welded the bars I currently have ready. Here is what I had

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/DSCF2820_zpsfc436562-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2820_zpsfc436562.jpg.html)

I fully welded the seams and then stuck the cage together, looked pretty cool. Could be the start of the tube buggy or ariel atom type car

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/DSCF2821_zps325584e2-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2821_zps325584e2.jpg.html)

Then I set everything back into the car and began welding it in for good.

Here you can also see my C pillar bars set into place, these however are not yet welded but are in just about their final locations

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/DSCF2822_zps0e225067-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2822_zps0e225067.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/DSCF2823_zpsa4c9b802-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2823_zpsa4c9b802.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/DSCF2827_zps713b246a-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2827_zps713b246a.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/DSCF2825_zps19adbbb2-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2825_zps19adbbb2.jpg.html)

This is the rear portion of the c pillar bar. It will land rite on top of the frame rail once I trim the end of the tube and put some plates on the rail

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/DSCF2826_zps1e027264-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2826_zps1e027264.jpg.html)

With the C pillar bar being tucked into the side so well, I do not believe that there will be a safety concern for a rear passenger. I am still undecided on if I will put a permanent diagonal bar to brace the main hoop. I may work something out that is removable

[dodgedartgt]

Hi Steve,

I found this AWD Cutlass article on Street Legal TV, thought you might like to see it,
http://www.streetlegaltv.com/news/necessity-is-the-mother-of-invention-brian-kings-awd-1982-cutlass/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=necessity-is-the-mother-of-invention-brian-kings-awd-1982-cutlass

Mike in FL

[Motorcitydak]

That's really cool Mike, thanks for posting. I love the inspiration behind him building the car. My inspiration was playing video games where I made a AWD Charger. I wanted an insane build anyways and that finally gave me that. I would love to see more AWD builds! I am rite now helping out another guy get his T-56 built like mine, he has a really cool plan for another AWD build

[Zachalanche]

Zach, thanks man. Don't you have a car you should be working on tho. I've been waiting for some updates on that car, really like what you are doing there.



Yeah I should be working on it, but I keep getting side tracked. I'll try to post some of the latest soon.

[Motorcitydak]

The cage is just about done which is good because I wanted it done this month

I got the drivers side C pillar bar in

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/DSCF2830_zpsbb4cb9b5-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2830_zpsbb4cb9b5.jpg.html)

I also had to make landing pads on the rear frame rails. First I had to liberate a bunch of old swiss cheese metal (still have some more to do) from the trunk area then cleaned up the rails a bit. Nice to see that they are in really nice solid shape. For the pads I started by doing vertical cuts about half way thru the rail. Then I slid in some pieces of 1/8 plate and then more 1/8 on top. You can see the vertical pieces by the weld and on the tops. I just wanted the area to be as rigid as possible

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/DSCF2833_zps0c0c63c8-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2833_zps0c0c63c8.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/DSCF2835_zps59da66f5-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2835_zps59da66f5.jpg.html)

Next issue was that the main hoop was not quite touching the B pillar plate. I cut it to match the angles but kept thinking about how I could push it into place

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/DSCF2836_zps717e5748-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2836_zps717e5748.jpg.html)

So I came up with this, it is just the air/hydro cylinder for my tubing bender and a piece of 1.5 DOM I used for my slugs

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/DSCF2837_zps51f66d85-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2837_zps51f66d85.jpg.html)

worked great

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/DSCF2838_zpse0e5b1ee-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2838_zpse0e5b1ee.jpg.html)

so i burned it into place

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/DSCF2839_zpsd534648b-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2839_zpsd534648b.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/DSCF2840_zpsf67f68db-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2840_zpsf67f68db.jpg.html)

Finished up the drivers side A pillar too

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/DSCF2841_zpscf3a868d-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2841_zpscf3a868d.jpg.html)

Also since these chassis' were not designed to carry the weight of the drivetrain I figured that mine could use some help holding that extra weight. I put in braces from the cage to the side of the rail where my engine mounts are

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/DSCF2842_zps846f6315-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2842_zps846f6315.jpg.html)

Did the same for the drivers side but had to work around the pedal/master cyl enclosure

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/DSCF2844_zps2cf4f6e8-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2844_zps2cf4f6e8.jpg.html)

The forward bars also got some extensions and plates so that I can put a brace across the engine bay. I am thinking more of an X brace vs just a bar across

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/DSCF2843_zpsa36237c0-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2843_zpsa36237c0.jpg.html)

Lastly I got the top windshield bar welded in. I have the lower bar ready too but ran out of time last night

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/11/DSCF2845_zps52945bc3-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2845_zps52945bc3.jpg.html)

I still have to do the door bars but that should be just about the last pieces unless you guys think there should be something else in here. I am also thinking about building a removable X brace to tie in the main hoop

[craigs73]

lookin good steve..... i can tell your welds are getting better the longer this thread goes.....kinda like me lol.....this car is going to be a beast

[Motorcitydak]

Lol, yeah thanks. I still shake my head at some of the 'beads' that I laid down on this car. Some time in the near future I will be grinding away some garbage to redo them

[craigs73]

yeah same here........but it is neat to see how you progress!!!

[bhcustomdesigns]

Great job on the rollcage!

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks Brett! I am happy that I met my deadline of having the cage wrapped up by the end of November. I did some more work on it Friday and unfortunately had one of those Murphy's law days. Started off with my welder not working on the highest heat setting, the switch burned up and was charred so I just by-passed it for now. Then my tubing notcher (Eastwood) jig stripped out 2 of its 3 bolts. I was not too surprised by that but it is annoying and not a good design. I'll fix it and make it better. Then on my very last notch my ole trusty drill gave up in a glorious shower of sparks spewing from the vents. Took that apart and looks like the stator windings melted, some parts fused to the armature. Had to finish that last notch with only a grinder like I am some kind of savage. Lastly I think my hydraulic cylinder for the bender is leaking, found some oil on the bender arms. Good thing that I am done with all my notches and bends

The only good thing to come of all that grief was that I have my door bars and dash bar in place

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/12/DSCF2847_zps01276a0f-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2847_zps01276a0f.jpg.html)

Here is the reason I wanted the bars to land on the rockers as far outboard as possible. The passenger foot well is only 12 inches wide, I can already hear the complaints.....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/12/DSCF2848_zps05aebccd-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2848_zps05aebccd.jpg.html)

[Bryce]

nice work!

[j-c-c]

"but that should be just about the last pieces unless you guys think there should be something else in here"
I am not sure an X is needed as much as jusy a single Diganol in the main hoop, which then might not need to be removable,
and if mine, I would also add a halo diganol, the direction depending on head clearance, FWIW
Interesting project.

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks Bryce. j-c-c, could you elaborate on the diagonal halo you are talking about? I had thought about just a single diagonal in the main hoop. I think it may be a good idea and could still have access to the rear seat.

To be honest I am getting a bit unclear about the next areas that I should work on. Obviously there is still much work to be done but it is hard to decide what is next. I am thinking for the near future to build the carrier bearing for the front center shaft and then the steering shaft. Maybe then onto the cooling and intake systems. I have a complete manufacturer's wiring diagram and 3 mostly complete harnesses to build from which may be the winter project. Spring time I am hoping to build the transmission and transfer case for the last time and work out the shifter

[Motorcitydak]

I got the bracket to hold the front shaft carrier bearing made up from some 1/8 plate

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/12/DSCF2849_zpsc52a21aa-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2849_zpsc52a21aa.jpg.html)

Added the bottom then cut some of it away so it lands on my crossmember bar

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/12/DSCF2850_zps585a1001-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2850_zps585a1001.jpg.html)

and tacked it into place. I think I am going to remove it tho to move the bracket back slightly. I have tons of adjustment with my bracket and did not notice that I had the bearing nearly all the way backwards.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/12/DSCF2854_zps1d2a4c05-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2854_zps1d2a4c05.jpg.html)

The bearing is for a E36 BMW, it is a driveshaft carrier bearing. Nice in that it captures the bearing in a rubber housing to allow some cushion

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/12/DSCF2855_zps1a9b4131-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2855_zps1a9b4131.jpg.html)

I also did some work on the headers, had to make all the pinch bolts for the sleeve sections. I used some small DOM tubing and 5/16 hardware. I just sent out an email to Jet-Hot to ask about getting it coated

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/12/DSCF2851_zpsb3eff68a-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2851_zpsb3eff68a.jpg.html)

I also am hoping to soon have a new ATI harmonic balancer and dry sump drive mandrel so I can do the dry sump pump mount soon

[Motorcitydak]

Makes me annoyed the amount of time that has passed between updates. I have been busy at my 2nd job which is paying for this build rite now. Also that arctic -20 weather made me not even venture near the garage. I did get a few parts collected however. I have a stock replacement radiator for a '09 Hemi Ram that will begin being mounted soon. I put an alternator on there so I can get a belt on soon. I also got my ATI super damper, I can say that there is something very cool about holding and using a part that is as nicely machined as this.

Also you may notice that I changed the name of the car. The silver fox thing still applies but I wanted something more fitting. I am going after the performance of any exotic super car and wanted the name to reflect that. I started looking for something either Italian or Spanish. I like how Lamborghini names their cars after famous fighting bulls so I looked up the words for things like bull fighter, horse trainer(for Ferrari), etc...I ended up finding out about the story of a bull from Spain named Ratón which means mouse. Cliff notes: was born very small, hence the name. He began fighting and was known for his attitude and amount of people he gored (dozens), even killed 3 people. Nicknamed the killer bull eventually and was the most famous fighting bull in Spain until his death last March. The full story is here

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ratón

The plans now for the car are a metallic blue with black hood and stripes coming off the hood to the front tires and a black stripe across the back. I hope to soon have the radiator mounted, hoses soon as well. I also need to mount the dry sump pump. My thoughts are with the crank damper and drive mandrel on I can use a 1x2 steel tube, drill a hole for the mandrel to pass thru and clamp that on, then another hole for the pump to pass thru and also get clamped, with the belt tight I can build a swinging mount, that will keep my pump lined up with the belt. Here is the damper before getting assembled. ATI just had to come up with a new hub for the '09+ hemi, this is an off the shelf Chevy ring. Also the drive mandrel is an off the shelf Chevy unit. The Hemi hub has the same indexing bore size as the Chevy ones, thanks for ATI making it all that same size so I had no custom work to do here.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/DSCF2863_zpsf5cd50fa-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2863_zpsf5cd50fa.jpg.html)

and installed

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/DSCF2866_zps998cdfd9-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2866_zps998cdfd9.jpg.html)

[FlyDoc]

I have been fallowing from the time I found pro-touring.com.
Like said and the same for me that our welding skills have improved, one thing I found on my 92 Camaro is that some of the body panels are galvanized, makes things a pain!

But you have inspired me to seriously look at all wheel drive, in fact in I can package it I will have it! I have decided that I am moving the motor back, and the rear seat may not be usable. So for me it will come down to foot room first, then drive shaft angles.

I like how you renamed the car!
Mine is Baby most of the time, or bitch when she is cutting me!

Keep up the good work and the inspiration for us also!

[Motorcitydak]

YES!! More AWD cars! It's the wave of the future! If I can be of any help just let me know. Auto transmissions are easier to use because 4x4's are just a direct bolt on. If you are planning to move the engine back you will probably have to do what I did and move it way back. The front diff in 4x4's mounts to the side of the engine. You could move it a few inches back and get away with the CV shafts dealing with some extra angle but anything more than that, the diff will have to go in front of the engine like mine. Good luck either way!

[FlyDoc]

if I go with AWD I will go with a divorced transfer-case, I already have an C4 IRS, so I think my rear drive shaft will only be just a few inches long.
as for the front diff, I'm thinking that I will go with a Trailblazer SS diff. and going with an dry-sump oiling system that may give me a little extra room.
I also have C6 front uprights, so that is just a hub swap. I'm hoping once I get closer on of the salvage yards or someone will have a diff, that I can barrow or get a junk diff for mockup.
as for the shocks & springs the Plan for cantilever is being worked on. basically with my plan for RWD to AWD will be just adding the front hubs, front Diff, transfer-case, and drive-shafts.
its just to easy! right?

[Motorcitydak]

Haha, Yeah easy! Just takes a long time and tons of fab. The tb ss front did is the same as mine it just comes with a 4.10 gear, I wanted 4.56

[Motorcitydak]

Here is the radiator that I got for the project. It is just a stock replacement one for a 5.7L 2009 Dodge Ram

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/DSCF2867_zpsa8b133f0-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2867_zpsa8b133f0.jpg.html)

It uses some pretty simple mounts, just 2 pegs on the bottom and 2 bolts on the top. This is of course nothing like the stock one so I had to make it work. First off was the flanges of the frame rails had to be cut off and welded at the corners. Also a lot of brackets on the radiator were removed. Here are the bottom mounts

Passenger side is very simple, it got trimmed a little more before going onto the car. Both of these mounts are made from 16ga steel

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/DSCF2868_zps7d132dcc-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2868_zps7d132dcc.jpg.html)

Drivers side was a bit more involved but not bad. I will be gluing some rubber hose to the inside of this hole to make for a nice cushion

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/DSCF2869_zpsae841057-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2869_zpsae841057.jpg.html)

Welded to the car, you can see the areas of the frame that I had to clean up. Not a big deal since I planned on doing that anyway

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/DSCF2870_zpsebfdd232-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2870_zpsebfdd232.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/DSCF2871_zpsebf7ae1c-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2871_zpsebf7ae1c.jpg.html)

The top mounts are very simple, I did not even take a picture of that. Just bolts thru the front support with large fender washers and rubber washers touching the radiator

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/DSCF2876_zps878a4669-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2876_zps878a4669.jpg.html)

Next up on my list was to get the dry sump pump mounted. I have been thinking about this for a really long time now, glad to finally get started on it. First I mounted the pump and drive mandrel in some 1x2 steel and angle iron

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/DSCF2872_zpsa5a095c1-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2872_zpsa5a095c1.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/DSCF2873_zpsd55238f1-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2873_zpsd55238f1.jpg.html)

Sitting in its home, I also started building the mount, pretty crude rite now I just needed the mounting locations locked down. The top mount uses one of the 3 bolts for the power steering pump. I will still have to use that area to make an idler pulley in that spot to get the belt in a good location

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/DSCF2874_zps0640d569-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2874_zps0640d569.jpg.html)


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/DSCF2877_zps5bcad0a7-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2877_zps5bcad0a7.jpg.html)

Finished it up

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/DSCF2878_zpsf5773cec-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2878_zpsf5773cec.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/DSCF2879_zps56459ec8-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2879_zps56459ec8.jpg.html)

and finally in

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/DSCF2880_zps33fa4a47-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2880_zps33fa4a47.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/DSCF2881_zps6f878e52-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2881_zps6f878e52.jpg.html)

I have some parts and more on the way for my air intake. It is going to be true cowl induction. I am putting a flange rite onto the passenger side of the cowl and use an inline air filter letting the car eat that high pressure air at the base of the windshield

[Motorcitydak]

I got in a big ole box of sexy from Florida yesterday. Should have been here Monday but the freight truck showed up and my shipment was mysteriously absent, better luck next try

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/02/DSCF2882_zps90adceab-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2882_zps90adceab.jpg.html)

and the glory that came inside. Bolt on stock hood from AAR Quality Fiberglass

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/02/DSCF2883_zps912577dd-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2883_zps912577dd.jpg.html)

I must say that it has been a very long time since I have simply bought something for my car and had it just bolt on. No disrespect but I can really see why so many others have all these bolt on's, it is just too easy! Once I found my old hood hinges that I thought i would never use (and almost sold twice) I torched the springs off them and sat around for 10 minutes scratching my head trying to figure out just how they bolt on. Ended up getting them on nicely and the hood has steel inserts so it simply bolts on in place of a stock (HEAVY) hood. I would say that you would be very hard pressed to tell the difference visually also, this fiberglass hood just looks amazing! It has a nice thickness to it and the surface is perfect. Very happy with the quality here to say the least

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/02/DSCF2884_zps94eb726e-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2884_zps94eb726e.jpg.html)

The seam at the cowl is about as good as you could ever expect, this picture did not show it off like I thought it would but again, very happy with it

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/02/DSCF2885_zps7a286ccb-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2885_zps7a286ccb.jpg.html)

Now I know that I do not need a hood to make this car run which is my plan to have happening by the end of September but I did need it so I can build my intake and be sure that it clears the underside

[Auto Rod Technologies]

forgot about this one.. Nice to see some progress!!

[FlyDoc]

whats that white stuff on you shop floor, by the door?
I don't have that here in HI.
but when I move to TX this summer I may see that stuff next winter.

[Motorcitydak]

Lol, seems like you are the only state in the country not covered in it right now. It's looking good for us tho, might hit 32 today!

[Auto Rod Technologies]

I hope you are right,, I've had enough of it.. lol

[Motorcitydak]

One step forward and one step back I guess, I built a power steering pump eliminator but the bad thing is that I now have to make up my own serp belt tensioner. The stock one rotates and would would great, if I had an A/C pump. With the way it is configured now the tensioner will not do anything but let the belt ride on it. The front suspension system sort of hides this all so it is difficult to get a picture of it

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/02/DSCF2890_zpsac35d635-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2890_zpsac35d635.jpg.html)

Here is the eliminator that built. The welds look like garbage because I had to tack it all around the base of that tube as I kept checking that face was perfectly level. Also I have a true idler pulley bolt on the way, just have a 1/4 bolt with a washer holding it on rite now

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/02/DSCF2892_zps7e3ed8ae-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2892_zps7e3ed8ae.jpg.html)

[67goatman455]

what are you using for a welder? your welds look very cold.

[Motorcitydak]

I agree they look like garbage in that pic, I had to keep jumping around so they tube did not get pulled out of level by the welds cooling. I'll snap another shot to because it is not as bad as it looks there. I am using a 130 amp craftsman that i have had for a while now, sometimes giving me varied and frustrating results

[dangina]

I bought a bolt on hood from stinger for my roadrunner, I bought some lighweight springs from usbodysource, but I heard that stock vega springs work just as well, they work great! stock look, half the weight! Once painted, most people didn't know it was fiberglass until I told them :)

[Zachalanche]

I agree they look like garbage in that pic, I had to keep jumping around so they tube did not get pulled out of level by the welds cooling. I'll snap another shot to because it is not as bad as it looks there. I am using a 130 amp craftsman that i have had for a while now, sometimes giving me varied and frustrating results

sounds like 12 ga is about your limit, and that might even be pushing it. I had a lincoln 135 that did the trick for most of my needs, but the level of penetration I got on anything over 14 gauge left me a little worried.

Check out the miller 211. for the price Its been an excellent welder, and its easy to use. its almost cheating.

[Motorcitydak]

More thoughts on that $#!% weld, I was welding it on the flat of my vise. I had the ground clamp on the handle. I could not clamp it to the piece because it could not could be moved. I counted on the current passing thru the vise then to the part. After finishing it there were a lot of spots on the bottom that you could see had arc'ed to the vise. I have done all my other work with this same welder and have had better results. Still not ruling out a new 220 volt unit in my future but most of what I do is in 1/8 steel so I do not feel like I am out of my machines abilities.

I have been giving the belt tensioner some thought, here is what I have drawn up. Please let me know what you think or if you have a better idea. The stock tensioner rotates to tension the belt. I need one that will telescope or hinge towards the tensioner mounting location. I went for something that will telescope since it will be more compact (i think). In this drawing I will mount the stock idler pulley to a piece of solid 1x1/2 steel. That will slide thru some 1/8 plate welded together in a box shape to control its movement to only be linear. Each of those 2 pieces will have 'wings' on them that will have 1/2 inch bolts going thru to draw the pulley closer to the mount. Past the sleeve part, the bolts will continue and these pictured tension springs will be around the bolts, giving it the force that I need. The springs are 3 inch free length and using my scientific method of pushing one onto a bathroom scale, at a height of 1.5 inches they give about 10 pounds of force. My thoughts are to push 2 springs together sort of like they are in the 2nd pic and use 4 springs in this device, pulling on the belt with 40 pounds of force, or of course buy some other, stiffer springs

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/02/DSCF2893_zpscb75c868-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2893_zpscb75c868.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/02/DSCF2894_zpse0fe77dd-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2894_zpse0fe77dd.jpg.html)

Also if you know of a reference for different length's of ribbed serpentine belts, that would come in great handy right now. I need a 6 rib belt, will check the length in a moment but I cringe at the thought of walking up to a counter at the auto part store and asking for a belt without knowing what vehicle it would be for. I can only imagine the looks on their faces now....

[rustomatic]

After being pissed that I had to pull my motor to replace a bad (actually not) pilot bearing, and then deciding it would be a big pain to weld up some kind of new and easily removable Monte Carlo bar (goes between shock towers in Falcon/Mustang), I took another look at your project. You win, times a million.

I like the new project name--I've always referred to Boca Raton, Florida as Rat's Mouth, 'cause it's fun to translate literally, and because, well, it's Florida...

[Motorcitydak]

Haha, so what was wrong that had you check out the pilot bearing? I never think about the translations of city names, funny that someone would name a town something like that.

So first off is another shot of that idler weld that we are all not a fan of. At least this spot came out a bit better. BTW this pulley is Dayco #89096 incase anyone else ever needs that info, it is 8 rib and 129mm, the bearing ID is 17mm, 12mm deep

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/02/DSCF2903_zpsfbf14936-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2903_zpsfbf14936.jpg.html)

Next up I got to work on my new tensioner, which you can already sort of see in the first pic. I built it pretty much like the drawing with the exception of I only had room for 1 spring. The water pump and idler pulley's are just too close for that. I cranked up the welder a bit more for this one then had to fiddle around with wire speed for a while

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/02/DSCF2899_zps4e48beb0-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2899_zps4e48beb0.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/02/DSCF2898_zpsbf3e7439-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2898_zpsbf3e7439.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/02/DSCF2897_zps8a94ed13-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2897_zps8a94ed13.jpg.html)

The body mounted on the engine, here you can see why I could not have 2 springs, one on either side.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/02/DSCF2900_zps8c00895a-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2900_zps8c00895a.jpg.html)

I have to say that I am pretty happy with how this slides, really smooth but not much play or binding. I built the sleeve by wrapping the bar in 2 pieces of paper and clamped the firmly together then welded the sides on. I ended up making another sleeve because at first the bar would not even fit back in until it cooled down. I did not want to grind away any of the surface since that would expose new metal which would corrode faster. Leaving that old scale on it I feel was the best way. I would like to paint or powder coat this piece but leave the inside of the sleeve and most of the bar raw. I was thinking that I can grease it up heavily once it is actually in service and grease it every few months or every year. Also while the springs do an ok job they are no where near as strong as I need them to be so I will have to get another spring

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/02/DSCF2902_zps5f7d6f30-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2902_zps5f7d6f30.jpg.html)

I measured for my serp belt so if you have a part number for a 6 rib belt 55 inches long, I would greatly appreciate it. I will be doing some digging online to try and find one
EDIT: I found Summit has belts listed by rib and length so finding one was pretty easy

[professor_speed]

Another thought on the welding,If you are using an extension cord make sure its heavy guage and as short as possible, My 120v miller has noticeably less penetration when using a standard extension cord. Also a wire wheel to the surface to remove the oxide make for prettier more consistent welds, As you get thicker preheating the parts can help, Map gas torch works well.
Hell of a project so far can't wait to see it done I have aborted a awd conversion once but might start another using the engine set back method.

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks professor, I remember reading a thread about a guy getting very poor results that ended up being the extension cord to blame. I am using a 20 amp cord on a 20 amp circuit, maybe the cord should be regularly replaced tho? I typically weld on freshly ground metal but do not usually clean up the parts after. I will soon be taking a bunch of things to have powder coated

I got to working on the air intake which is the reason I needed to buy that hood right now. It is made mostly out of a piece of 4 inch exhaust pipe. The bad thing is that this intake places the throttle body how it does. I do not want to change the intake because this one is an active intake. It will open and close a door to give me short or long intake runners. Under those massive hoods of the new ram space is not an issue but here it is. I ended up cutting down that rubber coupler as much as I can, I also kept the flange going to the intake as short as possible. All that being done I still only had 1.75 inches of room up there, had to keep things really compact. At 5 inches wide it has about the same area as the 3.5 inch throttle body opening however so I am relatively happy. There is just no way that I was going to cut up into the hood for clearance.

After that is a spectre 5 inch inline air filter and a piece of 4 inch with a 40 degree bend. This is a true cowl induction setup. I built a flange and will cut a hole in the cowl, this will let the car eat that high pressure air at the base of the windshield. I had seen that some NASCAR guys got wind of this idea and stole it from me. Also you can see where I had to relieve the part near the firewall so it would clear the bracing on the bottom side of the hood, and by relieve I mean that I beat the $%&# out of it with a BFH for about an hour. I cannot say that I care so much about the way it looks with all the dents, it needs to function. You may notice that I also have hood springs now. A smart person would have put those on before doing a whole day's work under the hood that involved raising and lowering it a bunch of times....I am not a smart person. It was actually the last this that I did for the day

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/03/DSCF2909_zpsf1bea08d-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2909_zpsf1bea08d.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/03/DSCF2910_zps640ec5cd-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2910_zps640ec5cd.jpg.html)

I am about 75% done with the intake, just need to finish it up
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/03/DSCF2912_zpsf9c0909f-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2912_zpsf9c0909f.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/03/DSCF2913_zps9092ebbc-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2913_zps9092ebbc.jpg.html)

[67goatman455]

is there any throttle body relocation option for that engine? it would be sweet to have it layed on its side so your intake elbow could be nice and open :D

Do car intake manifolds fit maybe?

[Motorcitydak]

I am not aware of any elbows for this. The car intakes do fit but they do not offer active intakes which is something that I really like and want to maintain. The throttle body has a 3.5 inch diameter, the rectangle opening has roughly the same area. I am not even sure if there is enough room under the hood to have the throttle body on its side

[User-C3]

I hate to just jump in here and be negative, while I do respect your effort of making your dream a reality and doing the work yourself, this thing scares the **** out of me. I would encourage to get some guidance from a professional fabricator, especially when it comes to a rollcage. If your suspension binds up and fails, or something else fails while doing 80 down the interstate the last thing you want is that cage coming apart and those cheap seats snapping in half.
Just some food for thought.

[Motorcitydak]

User, no problem I appreciate any feedback, positive or negative. What it all comes down to is that there is no way that I could afford to have someone else build this for me. Once it is on the road I will be doing a lot of lonely road testing and inspection to check for damages. I will say that of the things that I have built, the cage is something that I am quite confident in. Plus the fact that the car is still the way it was from the factory. If the cage does nothing but add weight then it would still offer the same level of protection in a crash which I assume would be quite low anyway. The joints on my cage fit very snugly and went together great, I am happy with the way it turned out. I also am not sure what forces would act on my seats to snap them in half. Almost all forces should be applied to the 4 point harness. Any other force will be going directly to the seat bottom only

My big concerns are the suspension and steering parts. Anything else that I build can fail and it will not cause a loss of control, those will. However then take a moment to think about the stress that the suspension mounts will actually see. Lets say that I am pulling 1 lateral G and all of those forces are applied to just one tire. IF all of that force was the applied to only 1 of the 4 mounts it would have to stand up to around 2500 pounds of force. A control arm acting on its mounts can only apply tension or compression. I feel very comfortable with that.

Also dissecting a lot of what OEM's build, you can get a very good idea of forces are applied to where and what things can stand up to.

If I really wanted to I could keep any of my garbage welds or failures off of this thread. I knew when I put up that pic of the idler pulley that it would be criticized and I am glad that you guys pointed it out, if no one did then honestly I would be disappointed. I think that if the only pics that I or other guys posted up was beautifully made and without flaw, that would keep others from ever even attempting a build or even project of their own

[Motorcitydak]

It has been a little while since any work has been done. I started having my garage electrical line blowing the breaker so I stopped working on the car, left the line disconnected while I starting taking everything apart to find the issue. I have been pretty busy lately but finally got the whole thing apart.....to find out that the issue was the extension cord that I had plugged in to the battery tender on my truck which sits outside.....just glad nothing caught on fire, takes a lot of power to trip a 20amp breaker

I have no progress to show but I did buy a few more things. I now have a 3 gallon oil tank that is going to take my XL shoehorn to get it in there and not interfere with anything else. This looks to be the only place in the engine bay that can fit a tank of this size. I wanted a round tank VS a box one so it can spin the oil against the sides. I also wanted a good amount of oil, figure I will run 2 gallons in here. Bad thing is that this looks like it will be in the way of a true air extracting hood that would be vented to remove all of the air from the radiator. I can still put holes in the hood but ducting them now may not happen

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/03/DSCF2927_zpsf8d89396-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2927_zpsf8d89396.jpg.html)

I also bought most of the fittings and lines that I will need, cost WAY more than I had hoped and still need more to finish up the system. I do have a question however, I got some reusable fittings from BMRS to go along with their lines but I need some help on how they go together. They are a 3 piece design with this thin aluminum piece that goes in between. My question is where does that piece go? On the inside of the line? the outside? have not been able to find an answer yet

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/03/DSCF2928_zps8e0707f7-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2928_zps8e0707f7.jpg.html)

[bryant]

the sleeve goes between the braid of the hose and the hose it self.
so first put the nut portion over the braided hose, then the sleeve under the braid over the hose, then the hose end into the hose and screw the nut on.

[Motorcitydak]

Ahaaa, ok so there is a 3rd way I did not even consider, thanks a lot! BMRS sent me a 2nd set of those inserts so I assume that they would get replaced so you can use the rest of the fittings again put I plan on only having to put them together once. Just needed something that I could put together myself without a crimper

[Widetrax]

Steve,
Great fab on your build! I am also wanting to make my own LCA's, and UCS's to widen the front track of my car. Thanks for giving me the confidence in doing them myself! Man, I thought I was doing a lot of fab work on my car, but you get the trophy!!

[Stovebolter]

Very interested! Looks great! Keep going.

David

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks a lot guys. I did get into it a little last night, mounted up the oil tank. Need to work on the lines from the pump to the pan and get fittings on the pan as well. Also need radiator hoses and to finish the intake.

Widetrax, if your cars mounting locations allow it or if you are going to make your own mounts, I highly recommend getting some universal racing control arms like the ones from these guys

http://pitstopusa.com/c-132107-chassis-suspension-suspension-front-control-arms.html

You can get lots of adjustment or change out arms to get the geometry you desire

[Motorcitydak]

Hope you guys are ready to see some crazy radiator hoses

Because of the oil tank placement, the upper hose had to go the other way, up and over the drivers side inner fender

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/04/DSCF2939_zps502eabea-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2939_zps502eabea.jpg.html)

The upper hose has a mount on the inner fender and also one here on the shock tower thing

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/04/DSCF2935_zpseeb19991-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2935_zpseeb19991.jpg.html)

Now Chrysler put this little extension onto the water pump without ever considering if someone would want to put a differential there so I had to cut it off. I cut right thru one of the mounts but where that is on the timing cover happily does not come close to the new hose, I still have room there to put in a new shorter bolt

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/04/DSCF2937_zpsc292ce22-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2937_zpsc292ce22.jpg.html)

That gave me plenty of clearance around the hose, I can fit my hand easily around this so no worries about it rubbing

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/04/DSCF2938_zps06119c48-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2938_zps06119c48.jpg.html)

I had to go up and over the bridge. To get rid of the air bubble that this will create I put in a 1/8 NPT plug so I can bleed out the air. I was thinking about putting a 1/4 plug into the upper hose since it is above the radiator cap and then I can fill the rest of the system thru that

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/04/DSCF2936_zps9d53fae7-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2936_zps9d53fae7.jpg.html)

The air intake is capped off and now complete

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/04/DSCF2934_zps0cab63f5-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2934_zps0cab63f5.jpg.html)

The oil pan is also now complete. I am getting a bunch of parts ready to get powder coated

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/04/DSCF2933_zps2bcaaf27-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2933_zps2bcaaf27.jpg.html)

Also got my lines together, still have some more to go

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/04/DSCF2941_zps7fcc615f-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2941_zps7fcc615f.jpg.html)

For the hose ends, I have T bolt clamps on all ends. I am going to use waterless coolant so there will be no pressure in the system and I was also planning to use bellow's adhesive on all of the fittings

[SS PUNISHER]

Have you looked into the 6.4l intake?
I am not aware of any elbows for this. The car intakes do fit but they do not offer active intakes which is something that I really like and want to maintain. The throttle body has a 3.5 inch diameter, the rectangle opening has roughly the same area. I am not even sure if there is enough room under the hood to have the throttle body on its side

[Motorcitydak]

Interesting......i had not looked into the 6.4, looks like it has variable runners as well......wonder if it will fit into my dog house

Good info about the intake here, $435 right from the factory
http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php/266543-2011-Variable-Runner-Intake-Manifold

And i cannot use it on my engine, the TB mount is forward and off to the drivers side, right where my alternator is and I cannot move it to where the car has it since that is where my front diff is. I am going to have to stick to my truck manifold

[SS PUNISHER]

That's the same thread I was reading...

[Motorcitydak]

So I had a little unexpected break from my recent crazy busy work schedule. I used some of the time to make some good progress on the car. I ran out of reasons why the drive train and all those other parts needed to be in the car so out it all came. Didn't take much time to do which was nice

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/04/DSCF2942_zps9d23485e-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2942_zps9d23485e.jpg.html)

Then up the car went.....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/04/DSCF2943_zps0b9f52c8-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2943_zps0b9f52c8.jpg.html)

and out came the drivetrain

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/04/DSCF2945_zps7749e404-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2945_zps7749e404.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/04/DSCF2944_zps37629958-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2944_zps37629958.jpg.html)

I will be finishing off the dog house area as well as a few other spots in the engine bay. I will be filling in all of these holes

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/04/DSCF2947_zpse07ee1c4-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2947_zpse07ee1c4.jpg.html)

To keep progress moving along I picked up a 20 gallon Aeromotive stealth fuel cell along with a filler neck so I can still use the stock fuel filler cap

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/04/DSCF2948_zps3226e04b-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2948_zps3226e04b.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/04/DSCF2950_zpsec6c850f-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2950_zpsec6c850f.jpg.html)

I started getting the mount done. The frame is done, just need to finish up the mounts. I have the cell mounted rather high and forward in the trunk because I have some plans for this area. Right now the cell sits level but after thinking about it I want to lower the drivers side a little so that when I am low on fuel it will flow towards the pump, figured just 2 or 3 degrees should be good right?

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/04/DSCF2954_zpsecb91e57-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2954_zpsecb91e57.jpg.html)

This piece goes on top of the cell and I have 4 pieces of all thread, one for each corner that will clamp it into place. I have some 1/16 inch thick nylon sheet that will insulate the aluminum cell from steel frame

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/04/DSCF2949_zps1efb0e96-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2949_zps1efb0e96.jpg.html)

I started getting the engine the way I want to, started off my drilling out and tapping the dip stick tube and plugging it with a NPT plug. I think I may use this for a vacuum gauge so I can keep an eye on crank case vacuum that the dry sump pump should be drawing

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/04/DSCF2952_zps52dc9e8b-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2952_zps52dc9e8b.jpg.html)

From the tank I will be using a corvette fuel filter/regulator. For the line I was thinking about going from AN line to hard line to get to the front of the car then adapt back to AN to go to the push of fitting on my fuel rail. What do you guys think about that?

[dusterbd13]

thats the way I would do it. id also limit the amount of braided as much as humanly possible. probably only use a 6 inch piece for drivetrain flex, and hardline the rest.

[72BBSwinger]

Steve the 6.4 car intakes have an active runner valve. Only problem is they dogleg to the driverside. I think the 11+ Charger/300/Challenger 5.7 intakes are active as well.

[FlyDoc]

I like how the build is going, in post 363, User was / is criticizing your fab / engineering skills. I personal will say that I was suspect of your welding skills, but after some research for vehicle reconstruction laws for Oahu Hawaii, I found that the look of the weld has very little to do with strength of the weld. so with out looking at the weld in person it is all most imposable to evaluate the weld.
as far as engineering goes, look at the size of materiel used by auto manufactures, so in my experience I all ways have used 2-3X the thickness of material needed for the component at hand.
and that I see you are blowing it apart, I think that your ride will be just fine and you will not have any catastrophic failures.

[theastronaut]

You had me at 180 degree headers!

[Motorcitydak]

72, yeah I really like that 6.4 intake, just a shame about the TB location. I did not know that '11 and up cars had them as well, I will have to look into that. That being said the truck engine is still rated at 20hp more than the same year car 5.7 so I do not think that an intake swap is completely necessary. I did get some bad news from Hot Wire Auto who built the wiring harness and ECM in my Hemi '96 Dakota, they say that a manual trans ECM will not do the active intake so I will have to wire it separately with a nitrous activator.

FlyDoc, thanks for the comments. I would never defend the weld that I did on that idler pulley mount...and unfortunately on some other areas of the car. I ground that one down and re-did it, will show it as soon as I get it back. I will be doing that to some other areas on the car as well. I have been getting some frustrating welding results some times. I try to change one thing at a time (wire speed, power, direction of weld, etc...) but some beads I am fiddling with and it does not come out as planned. I also know that pictures some times will not show welds the best, I have looked over my pictures and been concerned only to go and look at the car again to see it is really not the same. Rest assured that when/if I do have failures, I will be the first to show off what happened and why. This car is in many ways an experiment and its results have always been and will continue to be shared with everyone.

I too like to see what the OEM's build then make my parts out of 2-3 times thickness. I some times have a hard time believing what actually works. The steering rack mount for example of my bmw is just a few pieces of maybe 12ga steel bent in C channel held in with 2 10mm bolts

astronaut, glad to have your attention, let me know when the space shuttle needs some new plumbing!

Speaking of plumbing, I do have the fuel cell mounted. It is nice to finally see it in place, it took a few long nights to get here. It is completely isolated from the steel frame by the nylon sheets and there is some fuel hose around the round bar on top. The tank is tipped 3 degrees down on the drivers side so that fuel will stay around the pump

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/04/DSCF2955_zps2e849c0f-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2955_zps2e849c0f.jpg.html)

Another fuel line question, is 1/4 big enough for it? Nicopp I am only finding in 1/4 and 3/16. I planned on using the same stuff for my brake lines as well

[Motorcitydak]

Some engine work is getting done. I pulled the front timing cover off and removed the stock oil pump since I no longer have a use for it. Happily the Hemi block has convenient NPT plugs right by the oil filter mount. The stock fittings are 3/8 NPT but the oil passages in the block are 1/2 inch so I was not going to restrict the oil by just a fitting. I drilled and tapped out the top fitting to 1/2 NPT and put in a 1/2 to -12

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/DSCF2966_zpsc8822868-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2966_zpsc8822868.jpg.html)

I picked up corvette fuel filter/regulator kit from Speedway Motors with the fittings for $70

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/DSCF2965_zpsdf2b1013-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2965_zpsdf2b1013.jpg.html)

I also took off intake manifold because I have some things to do it. With it off you can see the fingerprint of each injector, I think some work needs to be done to even these guys out. I also dropped some dirt onto the valves so that needs to be thoroughly cleaned before it is moved. I am thinking some fuel hose from a vacuum cleaner then some greased q-tips to finish it up

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/DSCF2957_zps1c4ace79-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2957_zps1c4ace79.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/DSCF2958_zpsa69dcb26-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2958_zpsa69dcb26.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/DSCF2959_zpse44230ca-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2959_zpse44230ca.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/DSCF2960_zpsa38a6a5c-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2960_zpsa38a6a5c.jpg.html)

There you can clearly see the huge issue from a PCV system without using an oil catch can. Here is the PCV on this intake

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/DSCF2961_zps370cfd3f-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2961_zps370cfd3f.jpg.html)

and like magic it's gone! Still have some cleaning up to do

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/DSCF2962_zps3d74a271-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2962_zps3d74a271.jpg.html)

This is the reason I removed it, I wanted to plug this hole up for good. The cylinder heads have holes you can see in the first picture of the intake runner. On the passenger side it is used for the PCV, on the drivers side it is for the oil filler which I also do not need and will be getting removed

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/DSCF2963_zpsd79a7959-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2963_zpsd79a7959.jpg.html)

[bonecrrusher]

Thats a lot of work on that intake...

[Motorcitydak]

Lol, yeah it is. It took well over an hour to get that pcv off. I still have to clean up the area i trimmed, remove the oil filler, trim off a few tabs then seal the holes. I'm thinking I'll melt some of the pieces i took off, heat up the holes then pour the melted plastic into there. There is really no good reason why i needed to remove these, just wanted to because i had the access to do so and i do not need them anymore

[Motorcitydak]

The intake is now finished up. I figured out a quicker way to cut things off these plastic intakes is to just use the drill bit in my dremel, drill a hole then another and another then just link up each hole that way you are not simply pushing thru the plastic melting is as it goes. I got the oil filler off the intake in maybe 10 minutes that way

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/DSCF2977_zps498ea884-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2977_zps498ea884.jpg.html)

I melted closed the vacuum fittings and PCV barb because I have no need for any of the engine vacuum. I am running manual brakes. I will probably still put plugs over these but figured it cannot hurt

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/DSCF2971_zpsee58904f-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2971_zpsee58904f.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/DSCF2972_zps7df94ec0-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2972_zps7df94ec0.jpg.html)

and I melted plastic in place to cover up the holes I wanted gone

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/DSCF2975_zpsaa45b131-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2975_zpsaa45b131.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/DSCF2976_zps4f99ac41-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2976_zps4f99ac41.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/DSCF2974_zps33e2d585-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2974_zps33e2d585.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/DSCF2977_zps498ea884-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2977_zps498ea884.jpg.html)

About the material used on these intakes, I have to say that I am impressed. I am not sure what its melting point is but I do know that I was trying to get it into a form that I would pour into the holes but after 4 hours in an oven at 500 degrees I got it soft but no where near what I wanted. The stuff also cooled down very quick. I could touch it maybe 2 minutes after it came out of the oven. I ended up using a wedge shaped knife attachment on my butane soldering iron to form the plugs and seal them to the intake

[Motorcitydak]

I picked up my parts from powder coat, the headers got a ceramic coating, the rest is just a silver that I wanted. It is easiest to see any cracks, rust or damage on light colored parts VS darker ones

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/DSCF2981_zps809361c4-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2981_zps809361c4.jpg.html)

Here is that idler mount with the new weld that I did to it, much better than the first attempt

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/DSCF2983_zps3898be8a-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2983_zps3898be8a.jpg.html)

Did some work filling in holes in the firewall, still a lot of work to do in there

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/DSCF2980_zpsd6dd6774-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2980_zpsd6dd6774.jpg.html)

Picked up a few parts as well:
This is THE key piece of my transmission, the shifter relocation kit. After a few months of searching around I ended up finding the guy that builds them, they are sold thru McLeod and I got my drop-shipped thru summit racing. It is part number 82-1001. I have never found of picture of this online nor have I seen info about them so I hope this can help someone else

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/DSCF2979_zps982fb263-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2979_zps982fb263.jpg.html)

I also got my flywheel. This came from Hays but has the same PN as the one available from Mopar except at half the list price(the box even has the M on it). This one is aluminum with a steel insert, very cool and it does not weigh very much, the car should rev up like crazy. I figured that I can get away with a light flywheel with all the weight that I am taking off the car and the insane gear ratio that I am running

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/DSCF2978_zps1e23780c-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2978_zps1e23780c.jpg.html)

I am working on making my own wiring harness out of one that I had. So far I am on my 3rd day of working on it and am no where close to being done

[Motorcitydak]

There has been a lot of work done to the car since my last update but it is mostly just hours or welding and grinding so I have not bothered much with taking pictures or posting anything. Just have a look at how dirty the floor is now compared to the last pictures

The fuel filter/regulator got mounted to the fuel cell mount, wanted to keep it close to the cell to limit the amount of plumbing I will be doing

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/DSCF2984_zpsb73d58bb-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2984_zpsb73d58bb.jpg.html)

I finally filled the gap in my front crossmember with this piece, it bolts in and needs to be completely removable so I can get the drivetrain in and out

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/DSCF2985_zps30f6ea0b-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2985_zps30f6ea0b.jpg.html)

I am very relieved to be able to say that the trans tunnel/firewall is wrapped up. I had tons of little areas to fill in but it is done!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/DSCF2986_zpscb44a211-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2986_zpscb44a211.jpg.html)

I also removed the pinch weld from the firewall just because I never really like it being there


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/DSCF2988_zps5393a055-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2988_zps5393a055.jpg.html)

added the IAT sensor to the intake elbow

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/DSCF2993_zps19eb4c2e-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2993_zps19eb4c2e.jpg.html)

I picked up this remote oil filter setup

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/_12_zpsba5ac239-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/_12_zpsba5ac239.jpg.html)

and because I am sure that the oil pump will allow some oil to flow thru it with the engine off, I did not want to end up having all of my oil sitting in the pan. I looked around a lot at the valves that are used on accu-sumps but I do not trust diaphragm solenoid valves to have 100% of my oil flowing thru, their design is pretty bad as far as restriction. What I ended up finding is this 1/2npt motorized ball valve, something I did not even know existed until I found it online. It's body is stainless steel and is a very simple 3 wire hook up. My only concern is the seals are nylon and rated to 100 degrees C, I am hoping to find some other seals that can handle the higher temps. It has a display to show the valve orientation and that knob is a manual override so just incase it fails I can still operate it

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/DSCF2990_zpsdd9cdb0e-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2990_zpsdd9cdb0e.jpg.html)

Got a summit RPM switch to control the actuation of my short runner intake since the ECM I will need to run does not do the short runner

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/DSCF2989_zps078af722-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2989_zps078af722.jpg.html)

Lastly I was working on the passenger seat mount. The drivers side mount was unaffected by the trans tunnel, passenger side was another story

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/DSCF2992_zps357b4c4b-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2992_zps357b4c4b.jpg.html)

After a fair bit of work, it now fits. I narrowed it by an inch and removed the rear mount completely. I will have to rework the seat brackets a lot but it will go in just fine. You can see that it currently has 5 mounts, the front left one sits directly over the driveshaft so there will not actually be a bolt there, I just put it in as a foot. I am thinking that I will also add a mount to the side of the trans tunnel at the rear left corner

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/DSCF2995_zps54d70749-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2995_zps54d70749.jpg.html)

[Motorcitydak]

Been a little while, time for an update. I have been putting in a lot of work on the car but again just more boring stuff that I have not bothered taking pictures of. It is almost time to get the drivetrain back in the car and fire it up. Before that I needed to paint the engine bay and under side of the car. I want to lizard skin the passenger compartment which has to be sprayed over primer, so I got some etching primer for the bare metal of the trans tunnel, that was fine until I went under car and saw some surface rust.....dam. So instead I POR-15'ed that area....which then required POR-15 etching primer over it.....Finally got started on what I actually wanted to get done. Sprayed on the lizard skin sound control yesterday, still waiting for it to dry then get the ceramic insulation later this week.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/DSCF3001_zpsfc4059ac-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3001_zpsfc4059ac.jpg.html)

Firewall is primered, it and the engine bay will remain gray, probably going to use POR hard nose paint on this area. You can also see a panel I added to the passenger side inner fender so I can mount the ECM, relays, fuse block, etc....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/DSCF3002_zps17637cdd-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3002_zps17637cdd.jpg.html)

I got the transfer case back together after I moved the oil pickup to the other side of the case now that I am running it upside down. I am using the stock pickup and tube, just added in some more hose and trimmed down the pickup a little. I also mounted the pickup by tapping a 1/4 hole thru the case and then holding the pickup down with a lock nut

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/DSCF2998_zps1f3bcd2f-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF2998_zps1f3bcd2f.jpg.html)

Wrapped up the transfer case after putting in a 1/4 NPT plug for what is now the oil drain. I am thinking about running an oil temp gauge so the sensor might go here

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/DSCF3003_zps891feb28-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3003_zps891feb28.jpg.html)

Sadly the case will have to come apart...While thinking over what I had just put together later that night I realized that I forgot to put on the lock ring that hold the chain gear onto the front output shaft. While cleaning up I had a big lock ring that seemed important, guess now I know

[SS PUNISHER]

Have you posted what you plan for a pedal assembly? Doesn't look like you have much room for a gas pedal...

[iadr]

Should I trust my info so far (I wasn't planning to pull it apart), that my NP 129 transfer case doesn't have that pick up? I plan to run it upside-down (flipped), as well.
http://wiki.amcevolution.com/index.php/NP_129_Transfer_Case_Rebuilding

[Motorcitydak]

Not sure if I posted that yet but I do have a mount for, I am floor mounting a stock drive by wire pedal next to the tilton brake and clutch pedals. I did not have enough clearance to get one between the steering column and the engine dog house

[Motorcitydak]

iadr, I see an oil pump on that exploded view but nothing for a pick up. You can see in my picture of the pickup at the top of my housing where the stock pickup and magnet live. Check out the outside of your transfer case and see if there is a bump out like that. It would have to be at the lowest point of the case when it was used in its stock orientation. Do not assume that you can run a transfer case upside down without doing some work first. Any of the new chain drive cases that I know of have an oil system and they pump thru the main shaft to distribute oil. The old gear to gear transfer cases did not need a pump. I would open that case up and see what is going on inside, you can count their lives in miles on one hand if it does not have the ability to pick up oil properly

Edit: Looking at this diagram, I believe that what they are calling the oil pump is #44, it just looks like maybe a slinger of some kind but no pick up. I do not know exactly what to tell you but that is an odd ball case
http://www.midwesttrans.com/diagrams_64-65.htm

[Motorcitydak]

Got the lizard skin all done on the car. I have a few things to note about this stuff. It does add a decent amount of thickness to the material so watch out for that, the spray gun is really noisy and will wake up your wife that works the night shift (oops), the ceramic stuff is a lot lighter and sprays much faster, I am nearly out of CI and have a decent amount of SC left and it flat out refuses to stick to non-primered surfaces. I only know that because I got some on my roll bar and it flakes right off. Also had one small spot on the passenger side floor that must not have been cleaned properly because I peeled back a small area then hit it with some more prey spray then another coat of sound control. I decided to spray the firewall just because I had the extra material and would like a sane experience in the passenger compartment.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/DSCF3013_zps19379330-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3013_zps19379330.jpg.html)

The engine bay also is finally painted. I made a big mistake in that I used POR-15 etching primer on here then thought regular POR-15 would stick to that......it doesn't, not even close. SO, I had to get more primer (at $35 a pint), re-primer it since that stuff would never come off then I painted it with POR hard nose light grey. I got to find out the hard way that that stuff must be petroleum based when the plastic cup I put the stuff in to mix it literally split in half in my hand, covered me and the floor in paint that nothing could ever remove, 5 days later and I still have some on me. Also I have realized that those cheap foam brushes are way better than bristle brushes for this paint, it drags on the brush so hard that it is forever pulling out stuff and leaving junk in my paint

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/DSCF3017_zps6d3f20df-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3017_zps6d3f20df.jpg.html)

I also leak tested my oil pan, had 3 small spots to fix so they got ground out and re-welded. Sat over-night and not a drop so it got painted and put onto the engine at last. This did get powder coated before but I did not really care if it looks good and I jacked that all up doing the welds anyway so I shot it with some etching primer and then 2 coats of POR hard nose just like the engine bay

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/DSCF3021_zpsd49e70ee-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3021_zpsd49e70ee.jpg.html)

[andrewb70]

The spray on coatings are a nice idea, but from my experience they don't do much. I use spray products from Cascade Audio in my GTO, and it wasn't nearly as effective as a proper stick on dampener.

Andrew

[Motorcitydak]

I will have to see how the noise goes with this lizard skin, if it is still too much I may add in some dynamat or something similar

I need to get the transmission back together so first I put to together my quick and dirty stuff-I-had-next-to-the-firepit transmission stand, makes doing all of this work much easier

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/DSCF3025_zps77cc302b-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3025_zps77cc302b.jpg.html)

I am starting off with checking to set preload. Need to order some parts tho, where are you guys getting your T-56 stuff from? I have tried to call The Gear Box 3 times now and no one answered. I need a shim kit, bronze fork pads, front and rear seals. Other than that the parts I have are all in good shape. Also once the counter and main shaft are in place and shimmed, how do you check for 5-6 preload(I have a 2 piece counter shaft)? Seems impossible to get anything in there to check it once installed

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/DSCF3029_zps40470fdd-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3029_zps40470fdd.jpg.html)

I am working on my fuel system so I got a whole bunch of parts

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/DSCF3027_zps1e70a281-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3027_zps1e70a281.jpg.html)

Problem is that I ordered a -6 to -6, took 3 times to actually get that part from Summit. Turns out Fragola mis-packed some of their pieces because I now have 2 -10 to 3/8 npt that I did not want or order, note how these both have the same part numbers. I also ordered 1 pilot bushing which summit had shipped right from the manufacturer, for reasons no one knows I had 5 of them shipped to me. During the 2nd phone call to Summit about my incorrect Fragola part I also told them that I got 5 bushings so now 4 of them are going back

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/DSCF3031_zps971b962a-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3031_zps971b962a.jpg.html)

For the fuel line, I am going to use mostly 3/8 Nicopp then some Russell Twist Lok for the soft line to the engine. The Nicopp in this size does not seem as flexible as the smaller stuff may be but it is really nice to work with. I can just push it around by hand and make whatever I need. With this bender that I have I can only do about 45 degrees or so per spot or else it will still collapse

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/DSCF3032_zps7857f430-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3032_zps7857f430.jpg.html)

By spacing the bends out just a little I can finally get a decent 90 degree bend

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/DSCF3037_zpsb43b6839-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3037_zpsb43b6839.jpg.html)

I got the fuel cell back in and do not plan on taking it out any time soon so I think it should be in until after the engine gets up and running! Right now I have the feed and return lines to the filter/regulator done. The line on the right I used the bender a lot, bent the left one by hand. I think I like bending it by hand more when I have the space and if I have the material left over from the feed line to the engine, I may remake the line on the right just to match the other one

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/DSCF3039_zps8a92e3fe-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3039_zps8a92e3fe.jpg.html)

[WallaceMFG]

I did Lizard Skin on the inside of my Torino and it works pretty well. It had more of an effect on heat control than it did sound, but the car is pretty loud so there may be no cure for me.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Build is really coming along..

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks Wallace, I have high hopes for the lizard skin. I really do not want to be baked out of the car.

French, yeah I am trying really hard right now to have the car run by my birthday which is Sept 25th. I have about 6 weeks left.....

[droptop73]

Try Liberty's Gears for transmission parts and support. He's local to you and I've heard they are getting real heavy into the Tremec stuff.

[Motorcitydak]

Cool, Thanks Jeff. I had not come across them but will give them a call, hope that the trans starts to come together very cool. I am also very open to clutch suggestions. I need to get one soon, just not sure what to go with

I was messing around in the garage more yesterday, doing mostly engine stuff

I put the water pump back on and put some holes in the thermostat to make it easier to fill the cooling system

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/DSCF3041_zps1370ee9e-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3041_zps1370ee9e.jpg.html)

Ran the feed line, used 1/4 nutserts to hold those clamps in there. This is my first time using them, after finding the right size drill bit it is going pretty easy. I am planning on covering the line in looming just to keep it safe from any steel. I have it run thru a rubber grommet in the trunk area just in a scrap piece of sheet metal that will integrate to the rest of the flooring, but that will happen much later down the road

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/DSCF3045_zpsf2d83af5-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3045_zpsf2d83af5.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/DSCF3047_zpsd25605c7-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3047_zpsd25605c7.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/DSCF3050_zpsaff6fbc6-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3050_zpsaff6fbc6.jpg.html)

Then I was making sure that my bundle of snakes will still play nice with the dry sump. Looks like I need to adjust some things and the #4 port will not be used. I think I will just add another port somewhere else, probably just a bulkhead one on the front of the pan. I have to admit tho that the headers are simply badass, especially on the drivers side. I will use some permatex 2000 degree muffler repair RTV in all of these joints, fingers crossed for no exhaust leaks. The first time this engine comes to life it will be breathing straight out of the cat's

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/DSCF3053_zpsbc8c207f-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3053_zpsbc8c207f.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/DSCF3055_zpsd2ab1df0-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3055_zpsd2ab1df0.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/DSCF3057_zpsd43b99b0-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3057_zpsd43b99b0.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/DSCF3059_zps4a1feb50-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3059_zps4a1feb50.jpg.html)

Once the engine is back in I will locate the cat's, just put them in place to see the fitment. The inboard one will just sit back a bit further, still need to add the O2 sensor's some where too

[Motorcitydak]

Also about The Gear Box, just ordered my stuff from them. Turns out they will answer no problem when are not trying to call their fax machine..... Just did not want to give them any negative press

[Motorcitydak]

Forgot to put this one up, changed up the fittings on my slave cylinder to be easier to work with. I have a remote bleeder and got rid of that quick disconnect fitting, changed that to a -3. Got these things from speedway motors, both for less than $50. I was just about to order stuff from another place, just that quick disconnect to -4 was nearly that much

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/DSCF3043_zps17c72d63-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3043_zps17c72d63.jpg.html)

[HellPhish89]

cant wait to hear the homebrew 180* headers

[Motorcitydak]

For sure hellphish! I really cannot wait to finally hear it!!

I realized that the oil pan needed a little bit more work so off it came but I think this will be the last time. I added a AN bulkhead fitting to the front area

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/DSCF3065_zpsd7ff274f-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3065_zpsd7ff274f.jpg.html)

I decided that some magnets in the oil pan cannot hurt, so I added those too

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/DSCF3066_zps126ee0b4-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3066_zps126ee0b4.jpg.html)

and some mesh to protect that super expensive oil pump. This still is steel 30x30 mesh which means that it has 30 wires across in 1 inch

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/DSCF3069_zpse62a052c-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3069_zpse62a052c.jpg.html)

Some flanges to hold the mesh

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/DSCF3070_zpsd19f6c71-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3070_zpsd19f6c71.jpg.html)

installed and some RTV to keep it there

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/DSCF3072_zps332d4138-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3072_zps332d4138.jpg.html)

Pan is back on again and headers are going in place this time hopefully for good. I put the gaskets on but have not yet torqued the stage 8 locking fasteners just yet

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/DSCF3075_zpsac1f8d60-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3075_zpsac1f8d60.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/DSCF3079_zpsef0d8164-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3079_zpsef0d8164.jpg.html)

and also the engine wiring harness is pretty close to complete. I took a ton of time on this thing and want every piece of it to be completely well thought out. I extended the harness 16 inches to put the ECM where I needed it, added a fuse block and some relays. I used a couple weather-pack connectors to add in a MSD tach driver, RPM switch to control the active intake and a few other things. I also used a weather-pack bulkhead connector which I liked a lot since it carries 22 wires thru a panel and keeps it all clean, organized and water tight. Now I just need to wrap this all up with looming

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/DSCF3081_zpsd7043e55-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3081_zpsd7043e55.jpg.html)

[Motorcitydak]

Headers are now on and completed. I sealed all the joints with muffler repair sealant, weird stuff, feels like clay and you can feel it shrink and harden on your finger in less than a minute. You can also see here that I have both of my up stream O2 sensors in the same pipe, this is because of the MDS. When the engine is running on 4 cylinders, it shuts down 1, 4, 6 and 7 and those are the cylinders attached to the outer most pipe, If I had a sensor in there it would see nothing in 4cyl mode and would probably stop the MDS, everything has to be perfect conditions for MDS to function

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/DSCF3085_zps660b80fb-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3085_zps660b80fb.jpg.html)

I picked up a shifter as well, reading other 4wd T-56 builds this seemed like the preferred shifter. Pro-5.0 shifter for a 03-04 mustang cobra. Rear holes need to be slightly elongated. Hoping to have the trans done this week

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/DSCF3091_zpsb989ecce-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3091_zpsb989ecce.jpg.html)

and the engine wiring is nearly done, 3 rolls of 3M super 33+ tape got it all covered. I had to adjust some things first tho, again because of the MDS. I have a MSD tach driver that intercepts the +12v feed to the coils and counts the voltage drops to give me an RPM, I had wired every coil up to the driver but then just realized that when the engine goes to MDS, it will only run on 4 coils and that would cut my engine speed in half on the tach which I did not want. So, I had to rewire 4 of the coils back onto the stock supply wire and the tach driver will just think I am running a 4cyl

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/DSCF3093_zpsec1df7a1-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3093_zpsec1df7a1.jpg.html)

[Motorcitydak]

Trans is finally bilt! I was a bit of a pain and once it was assembled, it refused to shift into reverse. After just a little bit of anger and pacing, I saw that the new shifter socket was hitting the reverse lock out solenoid so that went away, good to go now!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/DSCF3095_zps46a91edc-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3095_zps46a91edc.jpg.html)

[Motorcitydak]

Fiddled around with the engine some more. I had been wanting to prime the oil system before this goes back into the car so I mounted the oil pump and put some lines on. Put lines to the tank and just hung it off the engine with some zip ties. Put about a gallon and a half into the tank and used a drill to spin the pump which has a 7/16 hex head on the end of the shaft. With a mechanical pressure gauge in the oil port I could see that my progress was very good. Being a high volume NASCAR pump, it shoves around a ton of fluid and I was getting really high pressures with the drill at 1000rpm, showing around 90psi. I want to run the pump at 1/2 or less engine speed so I turned the pressure regulator down all the way, now I am at 40psi at roughly idle engine speed and 60 and stable from there. I should have no issues with engine wear running this pump.

The wiring harness is mostly attached to all of the vital bits, just want to swap out spark plugs before it goes back in because they will be a bit difficult to get to once installed. Also the belt is finally on. I swapped to a smaller idler pulley that got the belt a bit further from the pump and I tried a 56 inch belt but that was still too short, the next size up was 57.3 that I could find so the smaller pulley let the 55 inch belt fit

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/DSCF3119_zps4c29df77-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3119_zps4c29df77.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/DSCF3125_zpsfc78d736-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3125_zpsfc78d736.jpg.html)

[wfo guy]

You may want to rethink the silicone and the oil screen. That's a known area of failure.

[chunger]

Could you talk a bit more about the nutserts? Do you have to seat them? Or is it just drill a hole and insert? Does the thickness of the metal where it's being mounted matter? Where'd you get them from? Are you happy with them?

[Motorcitydak]

wfo, I was thinking that may be an issue. Not compressing the RTV between to mating surfaces does not give it much to hold on it. Best I can say now is that I will keep an eye out for that stuff in the oil tank or the filter which I plan on doing after I have the engine running for a while

Chunger, to use the nutserts, you have to drill a hole that the 'sert will just barely fit into. I think I used one of the letter drill bits used for thread taps, not sure what size off hand. Just be careful not to drill too large of a hole, if the thing fits too loose it will not clamp properly. The thickness does matter, there are a few different 'serts available depending on the panel thickness they are going in to. I am happy with them, very handy and more than strong enough for what I am doing with them. Not sure just how strong they are tho, dunno what they could put up with. To put them in, you have to insert them into a hole then compress the back side similar to a pop-rivet. You can do this a few ways and there are nutsert tools available at all price ranges to help. Here is what I used and do not really recommend, holding that long nut with pliers I tightened the cap screw to collapse the nutsert but this some times messes up the threads even with grease on them. Harbor Freight has a nutsert set for under $20 that I think I might pick up. It is just a modified pop-rivet tool but it will not jack up the threads like I have been doing

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/20140828_205655_zpsfc66iace-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20140828_205655_zpsfc66iace.jpg.html)

I got mine from this guy on Ebay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-1-4-20-Zinc-Coated-Steel-Rivnut-Blind-Nutsert-FREE-USPS-Priority-Ship-/121269650932?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c3c3c05f4

The HF set

http://www.harborfreight.com/45-piece-threaded-insert-riveter-kit-1210.html

[Motorcitydak]

Few steps forward, few back, you guys know the dance....

Pilot bearing for this application does not exist as far as I can figure. Crank register is 1.816, trans pilot is 0.595. The ring that I can find has an ID of 1.000. I could not find a bushing with those dimensions so I got one the closest I could find then had to have it machined down to a press fit into the ring.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/09/DSCF3127_zps33f78f88-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3127_zps33f78f88.jpg.html)

For the clutch I got a McLeod Super Street Pro Pn 75226 which is their 10.5 cheater clutch which puts a 10.95 inch friction disc onto the smaller flywheel. Worked great until I put the bell housing on......it rubbed. It cleared fine on the bottom but the top area was hitting. I had to clearance the inside of the bell just a little bit to make them play nice. I assume that any of its certifications are void now

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/09/DSCF3129_zpsa2cd534d-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3129_zpsa2cd534d.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/09/DSCF3133_zpsd7446c76-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3133_zpsd7446c76.jpg.html)

Then came time to check the TOB clearance. With the bearing all the way back I had about 0.325 between the clutch fingers and the bearing.....too much. I was aiming for just a bit under 0.100. I had to shim the TOB forward 0.225 which I did with shims made from a few different pieces of sheet metal I had

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/09/DSCF3131_zpsae845357-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3131_zpsae845357.jpg.html)

Put the drivetrain back together and put the starter on. If I pull the gear out as far as I can get it, it sits about 0.600 away from where it needs to engage the flywheel. I dunno what to do here.....will it come out further when I actually power it up? If not my only other thought is that I can pull the gear that far forward off the shaft then weld it in place

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/09/DSCF3135_zps913dfed1-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3135_zps913dfed1.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/09/DSCF3139_zpsa9cf9663-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3139_zpsa9cf9663.jpg.html)

But I do have the drivetrain together now and possibly for the last time. I want to get this back into the car very soon, hope to light it off very soon

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/09/DSCF3145_zpsa001a91d-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3145_zpsa001a91d.jpg.html)

[chunger]

I don't have any direct experience with Mopar starters - can you hit it with 12v to see if the engages?

[Motorcitydak]

I am thinking that I should to see what happens. I do not have a battery for this car just yet but I will need one soon. Any idea how far the gear usually throws out on a starter? This one is from chrysler's LX/LY platform so the newer 300/charger/challenger

[chunger]

I was thinking of bench testing it. I believe Ford starters move about this much.

[dusterbd13]

should kick that far. just hit it with some jumper cables off the battery in the daily and double check.

[Motorcitydak]

I took the starter apart, it only kicks out 3/8. I don't know what I'm going to do here but the car is unfortunately getting put on the back burner for a little while. I have a few other pressing projects that need my attention.

For the starter i think i may end up just sliding the gear down to where i need it and weld it in place

[Jetfixr320]

If you can slide the gear, How about turning it around?

[Motorcitydak]

Yeah i actually have to flip it around to get and part of the splines to touch. It looks like i may end up only having about 3/8 on the shaft just welded in place

[Motorcitydak]

Hey guys, finally back working on this project again and the starter issue. I tried another starter and struck out again. That brought me back to the stock 300/challenger/charger starter. I do not see that the manual trans starter is different than the auto one.....whatever, I'll just make it myself

Flipping around the starter gear meant that I needed the other side of the gear teeth beveled so it will engage the flywheel properly

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/12/20141220_132030_zps974452be-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20141220_132030_zps974452be.jpg.html)

I measured that the starter kicks out 1/2 inch, with it bolted to the starter I put a zip tie onto the starter shaft and slid the gear on to where it needs to be then pulled it off and welded it in place

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/12/20141220_141312_zps2f121f26-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20141220_141312_zps2f121f26.jpg.html)

It has a good amount of clearance and also engages the flywheel

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/12/20141220_144945_zps321c8b63-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20141220_144945_zps321c8b63.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/12/20141220_145014_zpsa05af09b-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20141220_145014_zpsa05af09b.jpg.html)

Then I got to thinking that it would be nice to be able to remove the starter without having to pull the entire drivetrain so I drilled out the top hole and put a bolt thru the other direction and welded a nut to the center driveshaft support bracket, also welded the other nuts to that, just trying to keep ease of service in mind

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/12/20141220_231735_zpsfd8a679e-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20141220_231735_zpsfd8a679e.jpg.html)

Another dumb little thing that I worked on was one bolt hole that I cut off the water pump needed to be addressed. I could not put the bolt in place because the head would hit the water pump outlet. I had to order some odd sized all thread from McMaster and used a nut to hold it. I think that some wiring work it still to come then I can start working on getting this back into the car

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/12/20141220_231752_zpsffe36237-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20141220_231752_zpsffe36237.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/12/20141220_231800_zpsadba4816-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20141220_231800_zpsadba4816.jpg.html)

[SS PUNISHER]

Anxious to hear this beast run!

[Motorcitydak]

Picked up a piece that I have been wanting for years now, had some $ to pick it up so I pulled the trigger before I spent it on something else. Of course it has nothing to do with getting the car running and will not come into play for a while

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/12/20141223_235833_zps6hyizlly-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20141223_235833_zps6hyizlly.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/12/20141223_235843_zpsxntntwux-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20141223_235843_zpsxntntwux.jpg.html)

Info on it is a Yukon thu-bolted aluminum 3rd member, bilet steel 1350 yoke, billet aluminum 5 bolt pinion support, 4.56 gear to match the front diff and a Trutrac diff. I got it from Quick Performance, very happy with those guys. I have used them a few times in the past and always had a good experience. I asked about the 10 bolt support but they said unless I am 1000hp+ it is not needed. I thought about the aluminum yoke but did not want it to corrode to the pinion gear. Only things I have issues with are that they used regular grade 8 hardware and the wear pattern seems a bit too close to the diff. Not sure what to do about that but I am certainly not going to mess with it

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/12/20141223_235855_zps9yr0ntms-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20141223_235855_zps9yr0ntms.jpg.html)

[bryant]

grade 8 ring gear bolts will be just fine. strange supplies them to us with their kits. the only better option is arp ring gear bolts. you can replace them one at a time. just torque them to arp's spec. that is a normal gear pattern for that gear set. with the coast and drive being across from each other indicates proper back lash.

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks a lot for that info bryant, that puts my mind at ease. Really looking forward to when I install that pig, a break in session and first drive will not be far away!!

I picked up a few things that I wanted to put out there. I like to browse McMaster-Carr quite a bit and in my recent order I included this stuff

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/01/20141230_233007_zpsfu5azonl-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20141230_233007_zpsfu5azonl.jpg.html)

It is nothing special, just some fiberglass heat shield tubing but notable because it is the exact same stuff that I bought from DEI but less than half the price
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-cable-sleeving/=v9ops9

The other item is my battery. I recently had a bad experience with an Optima red top that I have in my Lotus. At a track day the bottom flange broke off the battery in a properly installed mount, the battery bounced around inside the trunk area of my car and hit the fiberglass twice, badly cracking the exterior paint. It is going to cost thousands to fix the damage so I swear I will never touch another Optima seeing how they had no interest in doing anything about it despite emails, pictures and phone calls.....I'm done

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/10/20141007_223534_zpszmbgqrfv-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20141007_223534_zpszmbgqrfv.jpg.html)

A little hard to see but trust me, THEY ARE THERE
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/01/20141007_185332_zpskkql2c2m-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20141007_185332_zpskkql2c2m.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/01/20141007_185322_zpsydl5ivbb-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20141007_185322_zpsydl5ivbb.jpg.html)

I never really liked the idea of lead acid batteries anyway. If you dig a little you will find that most are made by 1 or 2 companies then labeled whatever. Lead is super heavy and as I view it, an outdated technology that only still is used because it is easy, cheap, tried, true and reliable. Portable batteries have been advancing while car's just get loaded with bricks. Here is what I will be using http://shoraipower.com/lfx36a3-bs12-p126. It has 540CCA and weighs less than 5 pounds. They are sized and listed for motorcycle/powersports use but have been used quite a lot in cars with a lot of success, just do not let them get deeply discharged. At around $300 it is the cheapest $/lb weight savings you can do for your car plus a battery relocation to the trunk is no longer necessary.

This one will be going into the Lotus and I will get another one for the Charger and will use a 4 bank battery tender to keep them and my other stuff charged

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/01/20141230_232955_zpsalebemsq-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20141230_232955_zpsalebemsq.jpg.html)

[Motorcitydak]

Drivetrain ready to go back in, wrapped up a few wiring things and off it went

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/01/20150101_141603_zps0ke4d7tp-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20150101_141603_zps0ke4d7tp.jpg.html)

Finally getting its guts back

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/01/20150101_151420_zpskmidvfam-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20150101_151420_zpskmidvfam.jpg.html)

With the engine back it I started mounting all the electronics to this panel on the inner fender, fuel line is also hooked up. I will be using nutserts to hold all of these in place

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/01/20150103_155226_zpsezajfzkn-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20150103_155226_zpsezajfzkn.jpg.html)

I used a weather pack bulkhead connector to bring some engine wiring harness wires to the inside

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/01/20150103_140722_zps7lqc4dqx-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20150103_140722_zps7lqc4dqx.jpg.html)

Currently working on getting the oil pump and lines back on so I can finish up that system. Once all systems are go it is time to bring it to life!!!

[Motorcitydak]

Oil pump is back in and all the lines are on, routing all of these was quite a chore but happily they are all on

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/01/20150124_211643_zpsuvcdabdj-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20150124_211643_zpsuvcdabdj.jpg.html)

I made up some guides for the pump belt because despite how many times I check that the pulleys are straight, I could never just trust that it will stay on. These just give me some piece of mind

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/01/20150124_211712_zpsdpz0zsvc-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20150124_211712_zpsdpz0zsvc.jpg.html)

few things in place

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/01/20150124_211614_zpstl5gkaee-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20150124_211614_zpstl5gkaee.jpg.html)

getting populated

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/01/20150124_213454_zpsnanj0nst-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20150124_213454_zpsnanj0nst.jpg.html)

[meatonastick]

this thing is ridiculously beautiful

[rat_rod_russell]

I wish this site had the high five buttons for post. I would have been hitting if for the last year an a half. I want to build an AWD Stingray so bad I can taste it. Keep up the good work and keep us posted!

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks a lot guys! I totally accept your highest of fives rat rod!! I am more than happy to help if you start your build. Should have a good amount of progress flowing in the next few weeks

[Motorcitydak]

I have been keeping busy in this project, there is just not too much to show for it.

I put T bolt clamps on all of the coolant hoses, also used this stuff

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/20150207_055204_zpse959b36f-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20150207_055204_zpse959b36f.jpg.html)

It is from the marine world, is used on all the boots that keep those four letter words from becoming artificial reefs. Works great for sealing rubber to metal.

While running the last few lines for my dry sump I realized I would have a clearance issue with one fitting and the rocker of the push rod suspension, had to move the oil tank out and forward a bit , should be good to go now.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/20150206_234906_zpsa27e0e38-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20150206_234906_zpsa27e0e38.jpg.html)

With all of the coolant lines buttoned up I rented a cooling system pressure tested from autozone, I had it up to 30psi and had absolutely no issues with any of my hoses or fittings which is nice. However I did because I find that my 'reusable' water pump gasket had a few areas that were leaking. The gasket should be in soon then I can fill the system. I am going to use Evan's waterless coolant for many reasons, it is not cheap tho so I did not want any to be leaking out when I got the car going. In this pic the front differential and driveshaft are also in

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/20150210_221718_zps209f2f12-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20150210_221718_zps209f2f12.jpg.html)

Also I have a quick review of this harbor freight nut-sert/riv-nut tool, gotta say that I love it! Just drill a hole anywhere in a panel and 30 seconds later you have a good amount of thread in there that will securely hold stuff in place. Don't have to try to fight with a nut on the other side. The tool comes with aluminum inserts, you can buy more from other sources and also ones in steel. Comes with sets to do 4 sizes, 1/4-20 being the largest. For less than $20, I couldn't be happier

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/20150206_234804_zps096d08d8-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20150206_234804_zps096d08d8.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/20150210_221959_zpsbd6e392c-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20150210_221959_zpsbd6e392c.jpg.html)

[chunger]

Nice Update. I've been looking at that nutzert tool too. I noticed that it comes with a small amount of inserts. Have you tried other inserts with it? How did they work out? Where did you find them?

Thanks!

[Motorcitydak]

The inserts that come with the tool work just fine, as you said, there are not many of them tho. I bought another 100 from here. http://m.ebay.com/itm/121506409798?txnId=1410801077002

[iadr]

Huge, HUGE down vote for Evans coolant. As I have posted to many forums, if the Feds were doing their job, those guys would have been in jail for blatant fraud 12-15 years ago. Nothing of their claimed "science" is remotely true, and the stuff simply fails to work.

[Rhine]

Huge, HUGE down vote for Evans coolant. As I have posted to many forums, if the Feds were doing their job, those guys would have been in jail for blatant fraud 12-15 years ago. Nothing of their claimed "science" is remotely true, and the stuff simply fails to work.

Please enlighten us further....

[Motorcitydak]

Iadr, I always appreciate input, positive or negative. As stated, can you elaborate? That is a strong statement you made and i am sure we would all like to know the facts behind what you are saying. Sorry i never saw your other posts about this stuff, do you have any links to it?

[jetsetw31]

Hey guys, from what I have heard from racing friends and read about Evans, It does work. But that doesn't mean it's good for your motor. Let me explain, Evans has a very high boiling point and that means no pressure build up in your cooling system. But what that does is raise your engine running temp to those levels also. Now that may not seem like a bad thing until you think about your oil's running temp. Mobil One for instance has a claimed 400 degree running temp but no racer I know or ever heard of runs their motors past 300 degrees. (230 makes most nervous, me included) The parts can't take that kind of punishment. Then you have to take into account the computer sensors will constantly think you are running hot. So it will retard timing, keep the fans on longer, etc all in trying to cool your motor down.
You have to prepare your motor for Evans by using parts and lubricants that can survive in that same environment. Mobile One with a cooler for example.
In more basic terms, Evans coolant does not cool your engine well. Water and conventional coolant does.
That my 2 cents.
T

[jetsetw31]

Great build btw. I have a B Body on the drawing board myself and you went way past anything I'd do. And mine is gonna be kinda radical too, even though I'm gonna cut up more body parts than you, you still win in originality. Keep up the good work.
T

[iadr]

Locally (Canada) an ice racing league decided-on (got forced into) an environmental initiative to change to less poisonous-to-fish coolant. They chose the Evans. They had more blown motors and overheating and coolant dumped in that season than the previous 15-17 years combined. Gee, a few table spoons of ethylene Glycol or a couple gallons of the Evans as the rods go out the block- which do the fish prefer? I know which the competitors preferred... the one that didn't involve telling their wife about the 5K hole in their racing budget.

A local guy who had a number of Wally's (NHRA national trophies), had built his shop(s) up over a number of years, had built a high vacuum flow bench (100in of water IIRC) using a 6-71 case, had one of the first dyno's in the region, maintained real GT40's, and had a very inquiring mind, decided to build a light plane kit as a retirement project. Completed on time and a model of detail. Couldn't keep the motor cool.. Until he changed away from Evans.

I got in an argument with a guy on another forum who claimed to know as much chemistry as needed & he tried to tell me this doesn't apply- but you know the bubbles that form at the bottom of the pot of boiling water? Those absorb more heat by far, than any other method. Propylene Glycol doesn't do that. Phase shift point too far away from the 90-95*C mark, and when it does it's "numbers" are weak for what it absorbs.

https://www.google.ca/search?q=water+temperature+change+with+heat&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=2qfqVIv1ApHLsAS-8IDADA&ved=0CD4QsAQ&biw=1280&bih=898
Seems the figure is that water takes 5.4 times more energy to go from 100deg liquid to 100 degree steam, than it took to go from 99-to-100 deg water.

Basically, if you want to cool an engine, #1 you want a substance with a phase change (liquid to gas) at the specific temp of around 90-100*C, then, #2 you want something that absorbs crazy amounts of heat per unit (gram, CC) of the liquid. On both accounts water is so far ahead of anything else in suitability, you just need to stop the insanity and say "What is with these charlatans who are trying to claim there is a competitive product?"

Of course we have to compare Ethelyene Glycol to Propylene Glycol, but Evans have also made a career out of muddying the waters there, too. Dis-information in other words.

[iadr]

http://www.magnumsolvent.com/productdata/Product%20Literature/Heat%20Transfer%20Fluids/Norkool%20Comparison%20of%20EG,%20PG%20fluids.pdf

That above is a great industrial supply link that tells it like it is, free of "spin". They have to be- 10's of thousand of people can be dependent, for livelihood or safety- on the correct-ness of industrial cooling system set up.

Quote from HotRod mag on coolants:

The specific heat capacity of ethylene glycol–based water solutions is less than that of pure water; in a 50 percent solution, ethylene glycol’s specific heat capacity compared with pure water is decreased at least 20 percent at 36 degrees and about 17 percent at 200 degrees. Propylene glycol, another common coolant, has an even lower specific heat. Assuming a 100-gpm (gallons/minute) coolant flow rate and an energy loss through the coolant system of 189.5 hp, the water temperature increase would be 10 degrees, the ethylene glycol water mix would gain 20 degrees, and propylene glycol would gain 33.3 degrees.

Re: that last sentence- Well maybe 33degF in theory, but in RL, actually it wouldn't- it would leave around 10 degrees worth of heat, in the head. Poor conduction, thicker viscosity, etc.

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks a lot for all of that info, we all appreciate it. I hope that everyone will take it into account when making their decisions. I personally am still feeling ok with my choice for a few reasons. I do not like to put water into into contact with cast iron, I liked that this waterless coolant would decrease the corrosion I could expect to see. I also understand that it takes much more heat energy to make matter transform states (from liquid to gas). That works great under normal operations but in my eyes is a slippery slope because hot spots can easily become over-heating issues quick. With Evans not boiling until 360, you get more of a buffer. Personally running just a stock Ram Hemi radiator, if I notice temps getting too high, a rad change could fix the situation. As for the oil temps I can simply add some more oil to my dry sump tank and if needed add a cooler so I still have some good viable options, I hope that everyone is now able to make a more informed decision. The thicker viscosity did come to mind simply in parasitic drag on the water pump resulting in HP loss.

[jetsetw31]

IMO, your oil pump and a oil cooler would make the difference. Again, your doing good work, keep it up.
T

[Motorcitydak]

Trying to keep up the work, every day is getting closer to when it may fire up!

During one of my frequent wanderings around the hardware store I grabbed these 1 1/4 rubber compression plugs, I decided that they would make better upper radiator mounts than I had already planned. I cut some grooves into them for the flanges of the radiator and tightened them down, works great!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/20150221_224737_zpsv9klzilq-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20150221_224737_zpsv9klzilq.jpg.html)

Also got a new throttle pedal, of course it was different from the one I had mocked up with so I had to make a new mount. I cut off most of the pedal and stalk, just now need to make a new pad in a good position with the brake pedal for those heel-toes. Think I will make the very adjustable so I can taylor it to my style. That will probably wait quite a while tho, with the pedal now wired, I can move on to other things

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/20150221_224756_zpscxmynagd-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20150221_224756_zpscxmynagd.jpg.html)

Unfortunately that is all for right now, again progress may be slowed down for a while. May be moving out of state so I have a lot of juggling to do.

[bonecrrusher]

So you going to put a blower on your Hemi? Make it a Hellcat!

[Gojeep]

Couldn't see the first pic?

[RIDES BY DESIGN]

quite an undertaking. what will your final ride height be at?

[raustinss]

I hate to just jump in here and be negative, while I do respect your effort of making your dream a reality and doing the work yourself, this thing scares the **** out of me. I would encourage to get some guidance from a professional fabricator, especially when it comes to a rollcage. If your suspension binds up and fails, or something else fails while doing0 down the interstate the last thing you want is that cage coming apart and those cheap seats snapping in half.
Just some food for thought.
As a fabricator I couldn't agree more I HIGHLY recommend some consulting with a professional fabricator and mechanic before things get too far.

[Motorcitydak]

Bonecrusher, I have to say that i am very proud of srt for flat out changing the game with that hellcat, impressive does not even come close to describing what they did. That said, I think that the low 400hp area is going to be fun, not sure how much more i will need!

Rides, I do not really remember much off hand but from what i do, the lower control arms mounts are 7 inches from the ground and they sit level with the ball joints. That gives me around 8 inches under the front cross member. I plan on maybe 4 inches under the front splitter and belly pan

You guys may like to know that i recently have been getting pro supervision on welding and picked up a Miller 211. That being said, as i did before, I more than appreciate any kind of feedback. You learn more from negative feedback and results than positive. However, there is not an area on this car that concerns me. I would be happy to hang a few thousand pounds off any of my suspension mounts and am confident about the work i did on the roll cage

[raustinss]

Hey Steve
I'm not trying to be negative or be a dick. There has been a few pictures which the welding or fabrication I would question the strength of. Hanging a few thousand pounds off of isn't enough. Remember the weight of the car static then dynamic then toss it into a hard corner things multiply very quickly. Your welds might be okay in person but there is a few times they looks to be questionable in pictures or the material choose is questionable. I would hate to see something happen to you or your family. It would be amazing if everything works out for the best. Continued success in what insure will be a sweet car when it is done

[Motorcitydak]

No worries Ryan, I never think someone is trying to be negative or a dick. If you have a comment I always want to hear it and not everything will be good (just wait until I start to show what I am thinking about doing to the front end of this car! Flack suit on!!). I understand that loads change with attitude of the car but remember that unless you have significant aerodynamic downforce (or a CoG below your wheels center line) you cannot exceed 1 lateral G. Just going thru a slalom cone course you will shift that 1G from side to side. The only other way to exceed 1G is in a crash, if I slide into a curb sideways let's say I expect control arms and mounts to fail. Now if you say that a car weighs 3000#, and can do 1 lateral G, that is 3000# of force used to make that car go into a turn. That 3000# of force will be mostly seen by the front outside tire with the lower control arm mounts getting that as compression, the upper mounts as tension. The other 3 wheels will see some of that side load as well just not as much. The rear end that force goes to the watt's link brackets.

Which material choices are you questioning? Remember that most mounts of stock vehicles are made up of what we consider sheet metal and that if you use heavy material on thinner stock frames that will just make all the stress transfer to the weaker frame, you want to match the thicknesses so they both absorb the load equally.

Also remember that 1018 (mild) steel has a tensile strength of roughly 53,000psi with an ultimate failure strength of 63,000. What that means is that a 3,000 pound car could be theoretically suspended by a piece of steel with just a 0.056 square inch cross section which is roughly a 5/16 bar....yeah, you could lift a car with a 5/16 steel rod. That being said with 1/8 thick material for a control arm mount needs only 1/2 inch cross section to handle that same 3,000 pounds. Of course materials will fatigue and eventually everything will fail, that is one reason I painted the engine bay a light color instead of the typical black. I will see a crack in something long before you would on something dark colored. Regular and thorough inspections will show any problem areas.

Also, this is roughly ride height

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/03/DSCF11471-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF1147-1.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/DSCF1143-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF1143.jpg.html)

[frojoe]

You have to remember that a sustained 1 lateral G driving doesn't equate to a simple 1 lateral G if you were to drift directly into a curb at that time. G is acceleration, or in this case decelleration, which is all about a force over a distance. Take a F1 car pulling 3 lateral G's @ 150mph.. if there was a suddent loss of traction or if it was sustained grip directly into a wall.. that impact G force would be significantly higher than 3G.. likely 10+ times higher.

Making a human survive a crash is all about reducing that imposed G from the crash, which is all about dispersing the impact energy (force AKA speed before the crash) over the longest possible distance.. hence crumple zones on a car.

You're right that a 5/16" rod could support the weight of a 3,000lb car in either compression or tension ideally, but in a real world as soon as you exceed that with a safety factor of zero, say the car experiences 1.5G of crash decelleration (and head math says this would be like a 15mph-to-zero crash) that rod is going to either instantly buckle or going to rip right thru whatever its supporting structure to the car is.

The idea of a rollcage is to triangulate and disperse that crash impact energy as rigidly and robustly as possible (exact opposite of a crumple zone) since there are no air bags and the nature of a race car crash is at such higher speed and higher unpredictability than a street car. Street car = let mommy and kids escape 1 of several generalized crashes mostly unscratched with just bruises from huge crumple zones and many air bags. Race car = make that structure as rigid as possible, with maybe suspension corners considered as crumple zones, and strap down the hell out of the driver (neck brace, Hans, full face, 5pt harness) and that driver will liekly sustain more broken bones or bruises but the critical parts (chest, spine, head, neck) shouldn't flail around and be allowed to experience the horrific G forces a race car can undergo.

[Motorcitydak]

Very good points, my primary reason for putting in a cage was just to stiffen up the chassis, these old cars flex like crazy, there is just no way to expect them to handle well without first addressing that

On a sort of similar safety topic with F1, what is available to strap the steering knuckle to the car? I know that with metal vs CF control arms they are less likely to let a rogue wheel run off on its own in a crash but is it something worth addressing?

[iadr]

Example I would give is cornering as fast as you should on a public road (I'm not a super aggressive driver so I'm going to call it 8/10th's, but for others that might not be the right word), and you hit a pothole hard.

I believe I've heard that Corvette engineers work to 8g, and I know the Locost guys work to 10K and up pounds, on a car that weighs 1300.

In relation to the Corvette, I wonder how they "time" the suspension components. People don't trust aluminum connecting rods on the street, but yet we produce performance cars with all alloy suspension. Fatigue life and all.

I tend to go overkill on stuff like motor mounts, accessory brackets, and it'll only be this year I do suspension stuff, but I plan to go overkill on that.
The only thing I can remember I thought was light was some engine accessory bracket. Everything else looks good. I think anyone who wants to "caution" someone owes it to be specific...if only because it's a good bit more work, and for that reason and others the commenter has more skin in the game... ;)

[feeble]

The more my life depends on it, the more safety factor I build into the critical areas. Brakes, steering and suspension all qualify.

Large safety factors are built into car for a reason, straight analysis numbers rarely account for real world use (fatigue over rough roads, impact forces from potholes, accidents, etc).

You have a lot of innovative ideas and I am enjoying this build, but please review the integrity of your designs and welding. If you haven't already, make some sample welds that are representative of critical areas on the car, cut them apart and inspect them for internal porosity and weld penetration.

I'm certain we'd all like to see you enjoy this car for a long time.

[ace_xp2]

So long as the frame is strong enough to keep the arms on, I don't see a problem. Don't forget we're talking about steel, so if a floorpan weld isn't great you're more likely to net deformation and cracking verse outright failure.
Cages are tough items in cars like this, on the one hand passenger compartment ingress is a big deal in a cabin designed for constraining body movements well, but in a lot of these old cars once the forces get large enough you're going to encounter a variety of sheet metal that wasn't designed to deflect a human body well, dead either way. So the presence of a less then perfect cage will only effect you so much.
At the end of the day most of our cars are rolling coffins, and putting in three points, cages and seats will make you feel better right up 'til that front end collision hits the frame with enough force to take your leg off while it's headed for the back of the car. Just the name of the game.

[Motorcitydak]

Very true ace, I think we all know these cars safety wise are nothing like we have today. I did my best to tuck the cage away and i think even in the back seat i would have a hard time hitting my head, of course in a crash that would fit sure change

It is also worth noting that only my upper control arm mounts are made of 1/8 plate, the lowers are 1/4 and iirc around 2.5 tall. I don't think anyone can question if those are more than adequate for the application

[raustinss]

My questioning was more to do with the mounting of said control arms....did you use 1/8" or heavier...looks can be deceiving in pictures. Also the use of the bolt together aluminum if I remember correctly it's been awhile since I've gone thru the thread. And back to the control arms...upper..the one Johnny joint looks like it could be point loaded in a slightly different direction then where the mount is

[Motorcitydak]

I understand your confusion on the upper mounts as i think i am now on my third design of them. However every time i have built them it has been with 1/8.

The bolted together aluminum crossmember that i built is actually insanely rigid and yet only really will see an force on the vertical piece between the two mounting locations for the coil over shocks. The assembly will get additional stress when one wheel has different loads than the other but i am more than confident it can handle that. It is built from 1/4 6061

I know what you are saying about the upper control arm itself. With them not on the car right now i just do not remember if that joint is in a perfect line from the ball joint center to the control arm mount
Of course that is a really good point and is something i will have to check. If it is out, I may just cut the bracket off and move it so that joint is in line.

I do appreciate all of the feedback but i still am comfortable with my decision to use 1/8 for the upper mounts. That is roughly what the frame is made of and unless i built pads for the arm brackets to attach to the frame, I would not use anything thicker

[brawls43]

I would agree that 1/8" seems thin, when you look at the systems everybody else is building and using. Sizing it off the frame rail material makes sense in terms of welding, but not necessarily in terms of what that frame rail was designed to take. The 1969 frame rails didn't carry the majority of the suspension loading. The K member and stamped inner fender panels took the main loading. And using flat 1/8" stock compared to stamped and formed 1/8" pieces isn't as comparable either. Stamped/formed pieces carry much more strength than flat stock. That's why you see most people using thicker material for control arm tabs. I'd reinforce the frame rails with thicker plates and use thicker material for the mounting tabs. The good news with steel is that it'll bend, no break, but it would still be a shame to see it bend and crumple from hitting a pot hole or bump. Love the overall design and concept your working on though! Can't wait to see this thing running.

[Motorcitydak]

I completely agree that formed steel makes everything stronger, I may end up adding more to these UCA mounts. I will revisit them later(like before this car gets on the road), I have been very preoccupied with possibly moving down south. I did get some time to get things done tho, I have been working on getting it some electricity using that tiny battery that I got

I wanted to mount the battery with as light of a mount as I could think of so I wanted to use sheet metal, to avoid welds I bent it instead. Problem is that I do not have a metal brake (or is a break)? So I just used my cheapo HF press and a thick piece of steel, clamped down my sheet and then just bent it up then finished off the edge on some of the C channel of the press itself

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/20150404_212129_zpssc0y7ly1-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20150404_212129_zpssc0y7ly1.jpg.html)

This is near the end product, still needs the corners welded, add a gusset under the battery and then some priming and painting. Also need to add some all thread to make a clamp. I think I am going to use rubberized truck bed coating in a can to paint the area the battery will sit in to keep it cushioned

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/20150404_213243_zpsp9ak1rh9-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20150404_213243_zpsp9ak1rh9.jpg.html)

The battery and bracket weigh maybe 6 pounds, hard to believe that it will work. I will see how it goes tho, if needed I can add another battery to this bracket for more juice but this little guy still packs 540CCA. Those battery terminals will be changed to the eyelet type shortly

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/20150404_214552_zpsv890n39q-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20150404_214552_zpsv890n39q.jpg.html)

[Motorcitydak]

Ladies and gentlemen..........it's alive!

Video to come as soon as photobucket decides it's done loading it for the 5th time


Edit:Here it is!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/th_20150416_150229_zps2kdgpmez-1.mp4 (http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g221/motorcitydak/20150416_150229_zps2kdgpmez.mp4)

[keepat]

Congrats! Sounds cool, good luck with the build!
Pat

[cactuss4]

Congrats on the fire!!!

[dusterbd13]

great!!! did you try to move it under its own power yet?

[RMonte]

Way to stick with it! Good job.

[jetsetw31]

Congrats on your progress.

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks fellas! Sorry I thought I had replied earlier, it still cannot move under its own power just yet but rest assured that I am getting closer.

Work is still progressing on the car, I am trying to get the brakes, steering and suspension wrapped up.

For the brakes I have finally mounted my tilton pedal assembly and its reservoirs for good then ran the hard line which is all 3/16 NiCopp with -3an steel fittings on all the ends. Conveniently NiCopp is now on the shelf at autozone so it is as easy to come by as it is to work with, I cannot recommend this stuff enough. I used just about every inch of the 50ft roll that I got when I did my brake and clutch hard lines. Just for piece of mind, all the hard line will get covered with convoluted looming

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/20150515_153707_zpsf9icuzqf-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20150515_153707_zpsf9icuzqf.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/20150515_153701_zps7cyzix9e-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20150515_153701_zps7cyzix9e.jpg.html)

For the steering the shaft has to go under the center shaft for the front CV so it had to get real interesting

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/20150515_153638_zpsjpw0noyc-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20150515_153638_zpsjpw0noyc.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/20150515_165617_zpsj46t0pee-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20150515_165617_zpsj46t0pee.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/20150515_165558_zpsf4gknfhn-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20150515_165558_zpsf4gknfhn.jpg.html)

I used 3/4 stainless steel DD shaft and bronze bushings to keep it all in place, happy to say that I can finally turn the steering wheel and watch the tires turn. I know that ideally you need an equal amount of u joints on the shaft but here I really did not have much choice, I needed the double just off the rack and from there I had a 40 degree angle to make up to get to the column and a single just can't do that. The double joints that I used are from Woodward Steering, same company that made my steering rack, and are a very good quality and so much cheaper than what I can find thru summit racing

The rear axle is nearly done, only thing left is the brakes, grease the bearings and put it back under there for good. You can see the heavy weld beads that I put of the tubes to bend them, I ended up putting a half a degree of camber on each side and 1/16 of toe in

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/20150515_153822_zpschdvsd2w-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20150515_153822_zpschdvsd2w.jpg.html)

Also finally built my actual lower control arms. A few years back I bought a pile of racing lowers that you can sort of see in the back of the axle picture, they donated some parts to make mine. The bushing ends use mono balls so no deflection but will give smooth operation, I will just live with the NVH from them. I made a really simple jig to position everything and just put 2 mono balls into the ends to keep them straight

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/20150515_130411_zpsmdqjqyvn-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20150515_130411_zpsmdqjqyvn.jpg.html)

and back mocked up on the car

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/20150515_160101_zpskayscizw-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20150515_160101_zpskayscizw.jpg.html)

[Motorcitydak]

This again will be the last of any update on the car build as we will soon be relocating about 900 miles away. As is sits now it could move itself if I put fluid in the clutch and rear brake circuit. It is back sitting on all 4 wheels with bags packed and ready for the move. There were a few things that I wanted to wrap up with the rear axle. I got my Wilwood brakes and made the mounts for those. I adapted my air hose to clamp the calipers in place then checked that they were holding perfectly straight then welded in place

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/06/20150529_182558_zpsybuatsog-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20150529_182558_zpsybuatsog.jpg.html)

Painted with etching primer then painted and re-assembled

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/06/20150531_144932_zpsb7helcdj-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20150531_144932_zpsb7helcdj.jpg.html)

Axle hung back under the car

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/06/20150531_182716_zpsr1dizyyy-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20150531_182716_zpsr1dizyyy.jpg.html)

and rear driveline before it went in. Because it is only 22 inches from joint to joint I could get away with spinning just a 2 inch tube to 10,000 without (fingers crossed) any issues

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/06/20150612_163908_zpsqaifgriu-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20150612_163908_zpsqaifgriu.jpg.html)

[dusterbd13]

hows the move going?

[Motorcitydak]

Hey Duster, thanks for checking! We actually just got settled about 2 weeks ago in the new place. Good news is that we are not too far from you now, just outside of the myrtle beach area! I have ordered my first new parts for the car, still waiting for them to arrive. Now the problem is just that I have pretty much the same sized 2 car garage. However things are possibly in motion for a new building, thinking 32x40 may suffice. I am hoping to get steady work progressing here soon!

[Motorcitydak]

First update in the new place, unfortunately its about the same size area to work as I had before. Just a 2 car garage and the charger has to live with the Lotus so I still have to be careful about making a mess. Those Z06 front brake calipers are not what I need since I am using manual brakes so they are up for sale, replacing them are these Wilwood aero 6 calipers with 5.4 inch piston area

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/20150826_125222_zpsh3go1puf-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20150826_125222_zpsh3go1puf.jpg.html)

Now, I sort of cheated on these. The regular aero 6's use a 0.67 inch thick brake pad, my rear calipers have 0.8 thick pads. Having to always be difficult I wanted the thicker pads for the front as well so they will last longer BUT wilwood does not offer all compounds of their brake pads in these thicker pads but the 0.67 pads are offered in the BP10, BP20, etc pads. So, I just bought the wider calipers that can hold the 0.80 pads when I want to run more aggressive pads and the 0.67 BP10 pads on the street. That required some work to the caliper mount bracket, had to mill it down some to align the caliper correctly but all is well now

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/DSCF3159_zpsoxh8z780-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3159_zpsoxh8z780.jpg.html)

Wheel's fit great, can easily fit my fingers between the caliper and all areas of the wheel

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/DSCF3157_zps7hx6q3ai-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3157_zps7hx6q3ai.jpg.html)

Thinking it is about time to make this thing start moving itself around, just a few more things to do! Need to get some custom CV shafts done up and some shocks

[Motorcitydak]

The front diff is not very large volume wise for oil capacity. When I bought this diff from a junk yard it had spun a bearing due to either low/no oil or it being full of junk. I stuffed 2 quarts in the rear diff and would like to fit a good amount in the front one too. I have 2 hose barbs on the diff so a remote reservoir is just a little work away. I ended up with this, should hold about an extra quart and a half. Still need to add hose barbs, a fill plug and a vent

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/09/DSCF3180_zpswefqmhpq-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3180_zpswefqmhpq.jpg.html)

Had to fit in this location so that it sits at the same altitude as the diff

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/09/DSCF3183_zps9d6ezcvx-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3183_zps9d6ezcvx.jpg.html)

Next up I built some brackets to hold my cooling fan in place, pretty simple stuff. I sprayed some bed liner on the lower tabs because they slide into clips onto the radiator, didn't want the paint getting scrapped and leaving bare metal to rust

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/09/DSCF3185_zpsltpsxsxh-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3185_zpsltpsxsxh.jpg.html)

The fan is a 2800cfm Flex-A-Lite

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/09/DSCF3187_zpsv16f9gfk-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3187_zpsv16f9gfk.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/09/DSCF3189_zpsiblu3xno-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3189_zpsiblu3xno.jpg.html)

[dusterbd13]

I need to take a ride down your way and see this thing in person. ids pretty radical for a one man shop build.

and how do you test your welds for leaks/seal leaking welds? ive always been concerned about that when contemplating making my own fluid reservoirs.

[Motorcitydak]

Just give me a heads up and come on by! A nice day of cars and myrtle beach sounds pretty good! What I did with this tank is before I put the last panel on it I filled out with water to check for leaks and also it's volume. Once I put a npt fitting on there I'll connect my air to it and fill it with a couple psi then just spray all the seams with windex or soap and water. When I made my oil pan I just set it on a table with the hoses on and filled it with water

[cbpldc]

Sweet project! You just killed half my afternoon with all this reading!

I am by no means an expert, so please take this comment for what its worth, but is the hard tube mounted to your inner fender the high point of your cooling system? If so, you may want to cut a bleeder valve into that for when you're filling your cooling system.

Again, this is amazing, and you are taking on a huge project, and its flipping sweet! Good luck with the build!

Chris

[Motorcitydak]

Glad you liked it Chris! I too have spent countless hours on this site and many others drooling over what people are building, it's all very inspiring

Yes, that hard line on the drivers side inner fender is a high part but the radiator cap is still the highest of the cooling system. Thankfully I had a similar thought before I had those pieces powder coated. If you look close there is a 1/8npt brass plug in the high part of that tube. There are actually three of them in the radiator hoses that I build

[Motorcitydak]

Finally an update on the car, I have been dealing with a clutch issue lately. Could not get the trans to shift with the car running, figured it had to be the TOB not moving far enough. I had a 3/4 master cyl on it first, tried to use a 7/8 but still not enough, used a 1 inch master and that finally got it working. With that done, I have begun the break in process on the rear diff, letting the car idle in 4th gear for 5-10 minutes. I'm frustrated about this but still am waiting on the driveshaft shop to get to work on my front cv's, it's been over 2 months and still nothing even drawn up......I'm open to suggestions for other shops to do the work for me

I have been doing a little wiring on the car, got the keyless system from MCB Matt and love it! I really wanted some modern conveniences with this car like not having to use a key for anything. Now I just carry the fob, walk up to the car and it will unlock itself. Get in, hit the brake and clutch, press a button and we are off to the races!! I obviously still have a lot more work to do here and need to clean it all up

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/DSCF3249_zpsgls4ulix-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3249_zpsgls4ulix.jpg.html)

I got some metal work done as well. The trunk floor was a mess that I need to fix before I go any further. As usual first order of business is to remove the things that I no longer needed. This included the rear leaf spring mounts

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/DSCF3231_zpsjzisom3d-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3231_zpsjzisom3d.jpg.html)

Out came the fuel tank, rear push rod suspension and then painted the inside of the frame rails then cleaned the flanges. You can also see that I have been working on the exhaust. I have 2 resonators in place and once the trunk floor is done I can get the pipes over the axle and the pick and fit the mufflers

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/DSCF3233_zps7ylg2pap-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3233_zps7ylg2pap.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/DSCF3235_zpsucxb3sbk-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3235_zpsucxb3sbk.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/DSCF3237_zpsamiuiywt-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3237_zpsamiuiywt.jpg.html)

Now to start filling in holes. To follow the curves of the frame meant some bending was in order, well I do not have any tools that can do that kind of work so I improvised. Used a BFH and a block of wood to hit it around the tube while keeping a foot on it so it would not go anywhere. This piece needed the bend over 5 inches so each one got it a little at a time, came out pretty good

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/DSCF3239_zpslyzebpy4-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3239_zpslyzebpy4.jpg.html)

Still have the sides to do as well as some bracing plus a really cool surprise!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/DSCF3245_zpsmgavf3pu-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3245_zpsmgavf3pu.jpg.html)

[Joshdub]

This thing is bad ass. I've wanted to build an awd muscle car but I have never found anyone else documenting one. Keep up the good work! I am excited to see what's next.

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks a lot Josh! Should not be long now before this thing moves. I am hoping to wrap up some metal work stuff and then start on paint and body work, getting ready for paint in the spring

I did finish up my trunk area with this thing that I think is pretty cool

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/DSCF3251_zpsgfrz1xve-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3251_zpsgfrz1xve.jpg.html)

and the removable cover

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/DSCF3253_zpsc67mwjfs-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3253_zpsc67mwjfs.jpg.html)

mapped out an area

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/DSCF3257_zpsgsziixej-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3257_zpsgsziixej.jpg.html)

and opened it up. I did this to get good airflow out of the back of the car, getting rid of any negative pressure that I would have to drag around. I want to use stainless mesh to cover this area and will probably put the stock emblems back into that mesh. I will also be building a legit rear diffuser and belly pan eventually

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/20151119_172435_zpsrfbjkmvq-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20151119_172435_zpsrfbjkmvq.jpg.html)

I got my exhaust up and over the axle, going to get my mufflers on the way as well

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/20151127_172837_zps91dn3vuh-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20151127_172837_zps91dn3vuh.jpg.html)

[Motorcitydak]

Spend over 6 hours at the drill press, still have some clean up to do and this is after I took 2 gallons of filings to the recycling center

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/20151130_184437_zps7likasuw-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20151130_184437_zps7likasuw.jpg.html)

The drill press motor gave up about 2 minutes from the end, I was just cleaning up a few holes and it lost all power. Im going to take the motor apart and see what I can do to revive it

The reason behind all the work was to get some weight out of the rear push rod shock setup. It is all 3/8 6061 and I'd guess I took 1/4 of the weight out of it. This thing will be very hard to see so it was just to save a little bit of weight

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/20151130_184501_zps1q9sst0y-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20151130_184501_zps1q9sst0y.jpg.html)

[andrewb70]

That's a lot of work for what, 1 pound?

Andrew

[Motorcitydak]

No doubt it was a ton of work for very little reward. Truth is I am sort of cooling my heels for a bit waiting for some things to arrive at the house so I did not have much else immediately to do on the car so I figured that I would tackle that. From what I can figure I drilled roughly 200 holes, 3/4 in diameter so that should be about 3 1/4 pounds removed. Not something really necessary or a good way to spend time but I just felt like doing it and think it looks pretty cool

[Motorcitydak]

I finally have the exhaust wrapped up, used a pair of magna flow stainless mufflers and some polished stainless tips I have had for years. Put them out the rear of the car in a corvette-ish style

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/20151213_190400_zps8po37fux-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20151213_190400_zps8po37fux.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/20151213_190352_zpsccbybn8o-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20151213_190352_zpsccbybn8o.jpg.html)

and also I am very happy to say that after a 2 year wait, I finally have the suspension system that I have wanted. I know that I got one of the very first kits that they sold to the public (serial #9), I just wish that my car was not so far from being on the road, I cannot wait to drive this thing! It is going to be awesome. So what I got is the Vi-King Berserker system which is an active shock that adjusts itself 1000 times a second to the road conditions. Each corner has its own computer and there also is a central computer that works with accelerometers and a steering wheel position sensor to adjust everything. I can use a 3 position switch for road, track and race, can data log, and will eventually be able to tune the thing on a computer to adjust literally anything. A huge thanks goes out to Matt at MCB and Jake at Vi-King for helping me out along the way here! Will be very happy to give as much feedback as I can. What is cool is that I am only using a 150# spring in the front and 200 in the rear, the shocks do all the rest of the magic. I can put up some better pics of the components shortly but for now here is the rear pushrod setup just about ready to go into the car, just need to mount the wheel travel sensors still

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/20151213_190425_zpsmr2kcxvf-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20151213_190425_zpsmr2kcxvf.jpg.html)

[SS PUNISHER]

In for sound clips with the exhaust lol

[Motorcitydak]

lol I will for sure put some up as soon as I get the fuel tank back in!

[Motorcitydak]

Exhaust is buttoned back up, fuel tank is back in and the rear suspension crossmember is back in. I had it running for about 10 minutes to continue breaking in the rear diff and start to cure the exhaust coating. What is nice is that with cat's, resonators, mufflers and resonator tips, the car idles pretty quite. It barks nicely with a throttle blip and I am really happy with it! Ill get a clip of the exhaust running and post that up soon

I had to mount the wheel position sensors for the Berserker system, each wheel gets its own computer and they will be mounted just in front of this setup. I also had to notch out the arms of the rocker to clear the coil spring mount of the shocks, will have to do the same on the front end as well

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/20151216_145216_zpsgvcmjabf-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/20151216_145216_zpsgvcmjabf.jpg.html)

[Cop Magnet]

Damn that cantilever system turned out awesome!

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks man, too bad where it lives it can never be seen, lol. Loving your build too!!

Exhaust clip as promised(don't mind the boots with shorts....lol)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/th_DSCF3334_zpszfx61y33-1.mp4 (http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g221/motorcitydak/DSCF3334_zpszfx61y33.mp4)

I mounted all of my wheel control computers

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/DSCF3325_zpsgkb6njqz-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3325_zpsgkb6njqz.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/DSCF3327_zpszchj4rm5-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3327_zpszchj4rm5.jpg.html)

The rear two, still going to clean up the wiring/routing

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/DSCF3336_zpstxnvnhrj-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3336_zpstxnvnhrj.jpg.html)

Mounted the front wheel travel sensors as well. Only thing needed to keep in mind is that they are only supposed to operate in a certain range, 2.75 inches of sweep with the center having the arm being straight up

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/DSCF3333_zps8xzky0tk-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3333_zps8xzky0tk.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/DSCF3329_zpskaix2qah-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3329_zpskaix2qah.jpg.html)

Checked clearance here between the coil spring and oil return hose to the dry sump tank, about an 1/8 but that is all I need

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/DSCF3317_zpswys5jogw-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3317_zpswys5jogw.jpg.html)

Lastly I placed the central computer. I want to build a lexan box around this to keep it protected but I wanted it sort of on display in the car

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/DSCF3338_zpssil47hnr-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3338_zpssil47hnr.jpg.html)

[rustomatic]

It's a complex beast!

[Motorcitydak]

Lol, it is for sure much smarter than I am!

[Motorcitydak]

I wrapped up my Vi-King Berserker install with the steering position sensor. I got really lucky here with just over 1/8 clearance between the wheel and the box I built around the brake pedal assembly

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/DSCF3344_zpsjeiijfmb-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3344_zpsjeiijfmb.jpg.html)

Then because of the taper on the end of my steering shaft, I had to extend the sensor bracket 2 inches. After that you need to check clearance between the sensor and wheel to be sure it will see the teeth but not contact to cause any damage

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/DSCF3346_zpsjpbatgcp-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3346_zpsjpbatgcp.jpg.html)

Springs are installed on the car finally after I have some adjustments and clearance work done, 200# fronts and 150# rears

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/DSCF3348_zpsrvpiyl5w-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3348_zpsrvpiyl5w.jpg.html)

Then finally for the first time ever I was able to set the car on the ground with actual suspension in place. The front is about 6 inches off the ground, think the rear still needs to come down a bit

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/DSCF3342_zpsghrmtzns-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3342_zpsghrmtzns.jpg.html)

[keepat]

Congrats! Good start to the new year!
Pat

[dusterbd13]

Freaking awesome.

I really gotta come down there and see it in person.

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks fellas! Mike, you wait much longer and we may be going for a ride. Annoyingly I am still waiting on the driveshaft shop to finish up my front CV's, if I had them the car could drive around right now.

I started fitting the fiberglass fenders, these are a very light weight set that I assume was made a long time ago but had never been mounted. They are pretty bad tho and need quite a bit of reshaping not to mention that I need to build flares into them. I am thinking that I would get a piece of that 2 inch pink insulation foam and glue that into place to start shaping them

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/DSCF3352_zpscq70qa7v-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3352_zpscq70qa7v.jpg.html)

[Motorcitydak]

I'm working on fitting the fenders to locate them and give a mount for the fenders as well as the headlights, I am using front sections from a '68 coronet. The rest of the fenders were not in any usable condition so there was nothing really lost here to the coronet community. Once I trimmed off the sheet metal that I did not need I was able to put these into place. I'll be putting a piece on the inside of the fenders to mount them to the headlight assembly

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/DSCF3354_zps71c3w6wx-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3354_zps71c3w6wx.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/DSCF3356_zpsl3tpovrk-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3356_zpsl3tpovrk.jpg.html)

Messing around with that and also the hood mounts I got some pretty good seams, still more work needed but its getting better

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/DSCF3359_zpsifujiyic-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3359_zpsifujiyic.jpg.html)

Also built metal quarter panel caps, never really liked the stock bolt on ones. These are more slick in my mind. Used 5/16 rod and some 16a

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/DSCF3361_zpszuioq9ty-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3361_zpszuioq9ty.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/DSCF3363_zpsep2y0f9j-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3363_zpsep2y0f9j.jpg.html)

Lines up pretty nice with the deck lid in place

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/DSCF3368_zpsw3gqcndx-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3368_zpsw3gqcndx.jpg.html)

This is the grill I plan on using, it is also from a '68 coronet but was also used by dodge on the '69 charger 500 which is a very rare car. I just wanted something more flush up to the front of the hood

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/DSCF3366_zpsjccqmvcc-1.jpg (http://s57.photobucket.com/user/motorcitydak/media/DSCF3366_zpsjccqmvcc.jpg.html)

[Supra510]

I am thinking that I would get a piece of that 2 inch pink insulation foam and glue that into place to start shaping them

You can use green floral foam from Michael's or another craft store also. Very easy to form ,doesn't break down from polyester resin either. Nice work on your project.

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks supra! I had heard and seen some things done with that foam but didn't know that polyester would not break it down. I was thinking I'd have to use epoxy with any type of foam. I'm hoping to get this stuff very soon and have a Michaels near by, was looking on their site and just wish they would say the dimension on the foam blocks they have. I think I remember that you use gorilla glue for these, is that right? Then over top a layer of the cheap tan masking tape?

[Supra510]

It's like this more or less so 9x4x3 http://www.papermart.com/floral-wet-foam-bricks/id=44979?origin=product_ads&id=39500031&Product_Type=Florist%20Supplies&utm_source=google&utm_medium=adwords&utm_campaign=product_ads&gclid=Cj0KEQiA_MK0BRDQsf_bsZS-_OIBEiQADPf--vVUWVtoOtBmdSLEzjUz_T942mgvn6oCFmNBfZfyB5gaAnHA8P8 HAQ

I used a hot glue gun to stick the blocks together, though the glue doesn't sand well. Luckily it doesn't take too much. Also spray adhesive works. I never used tape, though I wasn't trying to make a mold either. I just made the shape, applied the fiberglass, finished off with body filler for final shape and did the other side after. Not super easy to replicate exactly, but I got close enough...lol. My car is not nor will ever be a show car.

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks for that link, its a smokin deal on that foam! I was shying away from it because I could get the insulation foam for much less. Those bricks in the stores can be $5 a piece

[MuuMuu101]

I barely skimmed through your thread, but I think this project is awesome!

[813Demon340]

Great to see it coming together. Love the Charger 500 grille idea. Keep up the great work!!

[Motown 454]

Amazing build!

[Motorcitydak]

Thanks a lot fella's, keep checking back as I am trying to keep steady progress coming on this now. I'm still trying to work with places for the front CV's but am moving forward on body work as best I can. If you guys have a source you like for fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin I'm all ears