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    Results 1 to 16 of 16
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      corona,ca.
      Posts
      1,120
      Country Flag: United States

      making ” swivel links”like dse

      made some for my 72chevelles upper rear arms,i used timken a4059 tapered bearings on a 1.375 shaft and turned shoulder down to .588 for taper bearings i.d. im now in the process of making the lowers,but im on the fence if i should make them with bronze bushings for the shaft as dse does with 1.250 o.d.x1.00 id.take a look@ patent genuis.com under kyle tuckers name youll see what im talking about.i will be using 1.5 dom for main tube,1.25 for rearward tube,2.250x.25 for rubber bushings.do you guys think the bronze bushing is stronger or should i stick with the 2 tapered single row tapered roller bearings,that are rated@2400lbs load?by the way i am not making these to sell to the mass,just for my own fun to challenge my fab and machining ,weling skills.phil



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      Midwest
      Posts
      2,263
      Country Flag: United States
      Holy smokes, that just made me appreciative the DSE Swivel Links even more.
      Kevin Oeste
      V8 Speed and Resto Shop
      V8TV
      Muscle Car Of The Week
      V8 Radio Podcast

      All about us:
      https://www.v8speedshop.com


    3. #3
      Join Date
      Apr 2009
      Location
      san diego
      Posts
      5,101
      Country Flag: United States
      I did not know DSE had a pattent. That is awesome. Good for him.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      corona,ca.
      Posts
      1,120
      Country Flag: United States
      dse didnt come up with the idea.from what mark said@scand a couple off-road co. had that idea before,i think maybe they didnt get them patented.dse also uses gm vette aluminum end links for there a-body swaybar kit,and im trying to figure out what brackets there using for there quadra-link system the pics i saw in the projects section shows them on a table and they use an aluminum spacer for the lower arms that attach to said bracket that looks oem to my eyes.so...can any body give me any suggestions on which route i should go with the spindle bearing my idea or the bronze bushing?i have less that 45 bucks in matl.the bushing dse uses cost about 3.00! the taper bearings i have run about 23.00 ea.x per arm,but i got them free from my boss.there out of old 34 ford generators!there load rating is 3200+lbs. static,700+@90m rpm but the rearend wont be spinning that fast!anybody that has the use of a lathe,mill and cold saw,welder can make these,a little thinking is a you need to plan them out ill try and post pics of the uppers i made.when im all done making these if any member would like to make them there self i can share my drawing with them.thats what hot roddings about.phil

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Apr 2010
      Location
      Pittsburgh, PA
      Posts
      717
      speed tech has something like the dse swivel link also..articulate arms or something like that...spohn has the same style anti-bind for their a/gbody bars too
      72 buick skylark
      twin-turbo fuel injected buick 350..perhaps stroked to 370 in the works!

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      corona,ca.
      Posts
      1,120
      Country Flag: United States
      Got done boring and pressing sleeve into tube.I ended up using the bronze bushings 1.250x1.00 I.d. press fit of .003,the engineer@work said they where fine and can take the loads from autocross racing.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      corona,ca.
      Posts
      1,120
      Country Flag: United States
      Attachment 44901Name:  Picture1158.jpg
Views: 1400
Size:  38.2 KBAttachment 44899heres some pics of the work ive done for my swivel arms,the third pic is a fly cutter with a carbide cutter set@ radius for 2.250 dia for the bushing tube,that goes in r8 collet 3/4 shank.it makes notching tubes better than a hole saw,also tthe max dia for endmill hss is 2.00 from what kbc tools said.bronze bushings in tube 2nd pic.going to start on spindle tue.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Jul 2007
      Location
      Olathe, KS
      Posts
      1,158
      Country Flag: United States
      Will these be used with a 3 or 4 link? I can understand the desire to emulate the swivel link, but it does beg the question of their real world effectiveness. In the limited articulation environments our cars are usually in, the bind encountered in the 4 link will be due the suspensions desire to change link length throughout it's travel. With that said, I would expect these to be equally as effective as a spherical rod end.
      Are there any other reasons the swivel link is used rather than a rod end?

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Jun 2009
      Posts
      206
      Quote Originally Posted by Rhino View Post
      Will these be used with a 3 or 4 link? I can understand the desire to emulate the swivel link, but it does beg the question of their real world effectiveness. In the limited articulation environments our cars are usually in, the bind encountered in the 4 link will be due the suspensions desire to change link length throughout it's travel. With that said, I would expect these to be equally as effective as a spherical rod end.
      Are there any other reasons the swivel link is used rather than a rod end?
      They provide the bind-free articulation while still providing a bushing style mount. Rod ends provide enough articulation for the environment however the solid mount transfers too much road noise for most. Other than this I see no other benefit.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      corona,ca.
      Posts
      1,120
      Country Flag: United States
      4 link and what brett said,lot less road noise,i made some uppers with 2.00 spherical bearing super strong but was told by mark@scandc it would be to harsh for the street.i will use the car for track to,but street also.i was thinking of doing a 3 link but...will see.

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Jun 2005
      Location
      Greenwood, SC
      Posts
      2,314
      longterm durability is a lot higher this way than with a rod end as well. They don't like rain, or dirt, or anything else that most normal roads subject a suspension to.

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      corona,ca.
      Posts
      1,120
      Country Flag: United States
      Name:  Picture1159.jpg
Views: 1250
Size:  41.7 KBmore progress today.

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      corona,ca.
      Posts
      1,120
      Country Flag: United States
      new pic of finished arm.phil
      Attached Images Attached Images  

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Aug 2003
      Location
      Southern Louisiana
      Posts
      377
      As was correctly stated above. The binding problems a 4 link has is from the links wanting to change LENGTH, not twist. Your fixing a problem that doesn't exist, and not addressing the problem that does. Making swivel links will never give you the bind free suspension your looking for. It can't. There is a reason why you always want to have a rubber bushing at one end of the links. The deflection of the rubber allows a change in length, to some degree. Rod ends at both ends of the links just make the problem (binding) worse.

      If your car ran out of gas, would you rebuild the motor, or fill the tank?


      Kevin

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Nov 2002
      Location
      state of confusion
      Posts
      1,499
      Country Flag: United States
      Rear control arm length only needs to change if the chassis center of rotation is forced to coincide with the geometric "roll center". These are two separate things, and in the case where compliant control arm bushings are in use, the chassis center of rotation will move in such a way as to generally minimize the forces developed in the bushings. In the case of most triangulated/converging 4-link arrangements, the rotation center would be expected to migrate upward a little, and the bushings would be expected to "give" a little.

      You can't help getting twist along the control arms. Not when the chassis rolls in accordance with suspension roll stiffness plus tire flexibility, while the axle only rolls by whatever amount permitted by tire flexibility alone. At, say 4° apparent roll/g where the roll stiffness allows 3°/g and the tires 1°/g, the control arms still have to accommodate the entire 3°/g in some manner (compliant bushings, torsionally flexible arm section, spherical end connections, or swivel links such as these).


      Norm
      '08 GT coupe, 5M, suspension unstockish (the occasional track toy)
      '19 WRX, Turbo-H4/6M (the family sedan . . . seriously)
      Gone but not forgotten dep't:
      '01 Maxima 20AE 5M, '10 LGT 6M, '95 626, V6/5M; '79 Malibu, V8/4M-5M; '87 Maxima, V6/5M; '72 Pinto, I4/4M; '64 Dodge V8/3A

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Aug 2001
      Location
      Connecticut
      Posts
      1,571
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by gt1guy View Post
      As was correctly stated above. The binding problems a 4 link has is from the links wanting to change LENGTH, not twist.
      regarding length bind, you are correct, I have what most would think is a drag style 4 link in my car but it was intentional as I knew I'd lose the back seat to a 3 link setup when I built the suspension etc in the 1994 timeframe (pre DSE, etc) and I couldn't package the torque arm w/o tunnel mods (now that's been figured out by others)- the solution was to run 'biscuit bars' for the upper links - they are common as the upper link on oval track car 3 links- they give a bit in extension and compression and are tunable using different hardness rubber bushings and how much preload you put on them. If you pull one upper link bolt on a 4 link car and move the rear end in roll you'll see why this is needed to have a bind free roll- the difference in ride height side to side makes the bars basically fight over what the pinion angle should be. With these bars I have 2.5" roll with no resistance and I can push it manually to 4" roll. (way more than is needed). The other good thing with these upper bars is that it takes some shock off the tires making it more forgiving getting on and off the throttle (their original intent in racing is to keep from breaking the tires loose on sudden gas/brake transitions) -Dan
      1968 Camaro RS/SS, LS7 with Katech mods, T56 Magnum, C6Z06 Brakes
      1968 Camaro RS Convertible LS3/480hp/4L70E
      1962 Corvette 327-340hp stock
      1963 Corvette Split Window Coupe
      1967 Corvette L79 convertible
      2006 Corvette Z06
      2011 Corvette GS convertible





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