Best LSX daily driver accessory drive

[chevelle1970]

Who makes the best LSX accessory drive for GM A-body (1970 chevelle) naturally aspirated, power steering, Air, daily driver.

I need something new the one I have now just isn’t working out.

I have a Vintage air Front Runner LS on my LSX 454. They use Tuff Stuff alternators I have about 5k miles on the car.
The alternator on the car now is #4.
Vintage air (http://www.vintageair.com/) has been great about sending me new a new one every time I call their very nice. I love Vintage Air and will continue to buy products from them I just bought a New AC setup great people.
I just need something more for the daily driver long hall.

Vintage air also uses a single wire setup and I would like a three wire.

I have twin spal fans pulling about 36 amps, fuel pump, ignition etc' totaling about negative 4 amps out of the alternator at idle with the head lights on I cruising at about 2300 RPM kills the battery in about 30 minutes. The alternator just doesn’t put out enough amperage and even if it did I can’t get more than about 1000 miles out of one. They just don’t live.
I think it would be fine on a carbureted application something that doesn’t have the power needs that I do and doesn’t get driven daily.
At this point I need a better alternator or some kind of a solution or I will have to scrap the Front runner and buy something else.
Please comment if you have any ideas no matter what it is as I said even if it mean I have to buy a new accessory drive I need something reliable.

Oh ya and I hoped to use my 400 amp audio system some day at this point know way that kills the battery even faster.
Thanks
Keith

[hifi875]

get a stock corvette accessory drive system. i got mine from pace performance. ive got under 1k in it including sanden compressor and v.a adaptor bracket for it.

[chevelle1970]

I had looked at that when I planed my build and it looked like I would have clearance issues what make, model, and year car did you install the drive on? What VA bracket did you buy? Is the AC compressor top or bottom mount? Is the alternator top or bottom mount.
Thanks for the reply I need all the help I can get. I’m getting ready to do a frame up and don’t want any problems after its done I did the build and have 5k miles this is pretty much my last issue I need to sort out then I think I will be able do some long haul trips without any issues.
Thanks again
Keith

[XLexusTech]

Dibs on the front runner if it goes up for sale...

[WS6]

What kind of wiring do you have on the car? More specifically how is the alternator wired? Sounds more like you have other problem besides the alternator. I've been using Tuff Stuff alts for year without issues. This includes units used on factory EFI cars. The alt VA uses should either be a 105 or 120 amp unit which is plenty for an EFI car using electric fans etc

[chevelle1970]

The harness, wiring is Mast Motorsports. the front runner is a single wire. everyone says that this is part of the problume at idle and low RPM. I have had others tell me I need to find a OEM three wire that I can retro-fit to the front runner. With that said if I could identify a problume and solve it that would be great. I love the look of the front runner. I'm not the best with electrical but I have had a few guys that are look at it with no luck so fare other than replacing the alternator. Vintige air told me what is killing them as I said I'm on my fourth one is the small case alternator they supplied gets very hot with that type of load and most of the people they sell them to dont see the use (drive as meny miles per year) that I do with as much load.
Thanks for the help any other thoughts please share.
Thanks again
Keith

[hifi875]

69 camaro. the va bracket allows the sanden compressor to mount where the factory one does. i had to notch the frame.

[TnBlkC230WZ]

Why not get a new altenator? Get a Powermaster or an OEM and install it.

[jpdeuce]

We also had a Front Runner Tuff Stuff alternator go out in less than 500 miles. Since it sat on a shelf for almost a year before being installed the vendor wouldn't replace it. It cost over $200 to replace it and another $90 to have it overnighted so the guy could get home.
I'll look into Billet Specialties next time.

[chevelle1970]

Jpduece,
I talked with the guys over at Motor state distributers (lane Automotive) and they said they handle all three major brands and have the least amount of returns problems out of the Front Runner and I have to say Vintage Air customer service is the best those guys have always treated me very well.
With that said next time I will go OEM modified and chromed or powder coated.
Do you know or has anyone here modified an OEM drive to fit without notching the frame. Something that locates the alternator and AC compressor on top.
I’m not getting a lot of response here with all the Pro Touring cars out there somebody has some idea that will work.
Thanks for the response jpduece I hope your new alternator lives.
Keith

[Mkelcy]

Like this?

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/img0781n-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

GMPP serpetine setup without air and a Kwik AC compressor bracket.

[The WidowMaker]

chevelle1970, maybe im missing it, but like said earlier, why not go with different brand higher amp alternator? VA has to be using one that retrofits something(they shouldnt have one off alternators), so there must be others that work with the VA setup.

on a side note, do you have a mast motor, or just the harness? its my plan as well, so i may have some questions for you.

[ProdigyCustoms]

We also had a Front Runner Tuff Stuff alternator go out in less than 500 miles. Since it sat on a shelf for almost a year before being installed the vendor wouldn't replace it. It cost over $200 to replace it and another $90 to have it overnighted so the guy could get home.
I'll look into Billet Specialties next time.

Someone done you wrong. But it is not uncommon for companies to deny warranty on products that sat on the shelf. We quit carrying a well known brake manufacturer for this very reason. Brakes sat on the customers shelf 1 1/2 years, had a manufacturing issue upon install (We did the freakin install) and they billed us $400 to fix a manufacturing problem! Real simple, They are done!

We have a extended warranty policy of overriding the factory warranty in these cases. If you can send me back something that is obviously new, I don't care how old it is or what the manufacturers warranty is. Prodigy will warranty it and we will argue with the manufacturer to make it good.

[ProdigyCustoms]

I know you did not buy that front runner from us but I can find you a Powermaster 160 amp part number when I get to the office. I would give this a try, I have had really god luck with them

[TnBlkC230WZ]

I've been running a Powermaster 105 amp for a couple of years without issue. It never falls below 13.5 volts at idle even with the AC and Taurus fan running on high.

[camcojb]

I know you did not buy that front runner from us but I can find you a Powermaster 160 amp part number when I get to the office. I would give this a try, I have had really god luck with them
I swapped to the same unit on my VA LS front runner. Worked perfect.

Jody

[jpdeuce]

I don't know about an OEM drive that'll move it to the top. I know thats why most guys are having to notch the frame for factory drive stuff.

I do know I would love a part number for a Power Master to replace the stock Front Runner alternator though.

[ProdigyCustoms]

Chevelle1970, tried to call you back when the call droped but it went through the switch board.

I did find a part number for you for a low RPM Powermaster 160AMP unit. 374011X-11MP should do the trick

Here is that alternator on my Street Racer engine I am putting together as we speak. This is a March Style Track I put together but should be the same alternator as you need. Should have the same outlet for the charge wire and the mounts are at 12 and 6 o clock

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[chevelle1970]

Mkelcy,
Nice job looks great that is exactly what I’m talking about. OEM all the way, daily driver. VA talked me into trying a 140 amp 3 wire Tuff Stuff. If this one takes a dump I’m going to do exactly what you did thanks for the Pics.

Frank,
Thanks for taking the time to talk with me yesterday, Sorry we got call dropped I tried to call ya back a few times and couldn’t get through. As I said VA is sending me a 3 Wire. Also Rick at VA said I need to run a ground from the alternator case to the block, I’m going to try that as well. Next is a home grown drive.

Thank you to everyone that replied your thoughts and consideration are much appreciated.
Good luck on all your projects.
Keith

[ProdigyCustoms]

The ground thing was the next thing I was going to tell you. Sometiemes if it is anodize the unit has a hard time grounding completely

[rockytopper]

I am not sure if this has anything to do with your problem but it is well documnented over at LS1 Tech that the early LS engines 1997 I think that did not run the alt thru the pcm require a resistor to be installed on the alt wiring or they will burn out in a short period of time. This was for the OEM alt not sure in your case.

[Mkelcy]

The ground thing was the next thing I was going to tell you. Sometiemes if it is anodize the unit has a hard time grounding completely

Agreed, I had this on my blue '68 Camaro with anodized brackets. Just throw an ohmmeter from the case of the alternator to ground and see what you get. Anything more than an ohm, there's an issue.

[hifi875]

69importkilla here is the pic of the notch. i didn't know how to put it in a pm.

[CreepinDeth]

I have a 1970 Olds 442 (A-body) I'm looking at the swap for.
I've been following this guys LY6 accessories swap out and parts info.

post #17 and #18 lay most of it out.
http://www.offroadfabnet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8160


Like this?

GMPP serpetine setup without air and a Kwik AC compressor bracket.

Any chance you can post links to this stuff ?? That's EXACTLY how I want my 1970 442's new LY6 to look.
A/C compressor and Alternator on opposing sides up high. :)

I'm looking into LY6 engines, and I have most of the GM part #'s to buy the stuff through GMpartsdirect.
Can't tell if that's a Vette accessories setup or not.......is the power steering Vette too ??

I can tell it's got the passenger car intake and water pump though......

[69importkilla]

Thanks hifi, looks real good...

[Mkelcy]

Any chance you can post links to this stuff ?? That's EXACTLY how I want my 1970 442's new LY6 to look. A/C compressor and Alternator on opposing sides up high. :)

I also responded to your PM. The setup pictured in post 11 is an LS3, the accessory drive is for a Corvette (w/o AC - GM 19155167), the AC compressor bracket from from KWIK Performance (K10143) and I separately purchased a Sanden compressor. I had all the brackets powder coated satin black and upgraded the hardware for the KWIK bracket. Take a look here: http://paceperformance.com/i-5135244...7-engines.html (http://paceperformance.com/i-5135244-19155167-gmpp-accessory-drive-system-without-a-c-fits-ls2-ls3-ls7-engines.html) for the accessory drive w/o AC - there's no sense in buying parts you can't (or shouldn't) use.

[CreepinDeth]

Thanks Mike!!

[Taman]

If you keep blowing alternators, I would check your ground. Ground IS the most important circuit. Current is made by electrons which is negative in polarity. That means power flows from ground to positive. We are taught coventional power flow not electron flow. You can't have too many grounding points! I ground the battery to the engine, chassis and body. I ground the engine to the body and chassis. I also ground the body to the chassis. Never had an issue. I do not use solid core wire. Current flows around not inside the wire. Stranded wire has more surface area. Try more grounding points and see if that solves the problem.