Retro-Roller Cams

[sr73bu]

While my motor is out (and i need to re-seal a few things) I was considering swapping cams...

A few years ago I put in a 286 (hydrualic) comp cam.. It seems to be working fine, but with alot of talk about low zinc levels in oil and the fact that i really havent driven it enough to know if its starting to fail, is it worth it to go roller?

My main goals with this motor are longevity and durability... (think long trips and some autocrossing)

Any input on roller cams, specifically comp cams "retro-roller" setup would be great!

Thanks in advance,

Sean

[ArtosDracon]

As for the cams themselves, they're great, no complainst there. As to whether it would benefit you, can we get pictures of your current lifters and how many miles\years you'd like to put on them once re-built?

[Lowend]

There is really no downside to a roller cam...
Keep in mind you will probably have to swap the whole valvetrain (springs, retainers, pushrods)

Hydraulic Roller Cams have effective red line of 6500RPM, but that does not sound like it's a problem here.

Post your engine combo, we'll make recommendations

[Pro Stock]

If you already have a decent amount of time on your present cam and it still looks good you should be able to use it with no problems. Anytime you install a flat tappet cam whether it be hydraulic or solid you should use a zinc additive or a high zink oil such as the Brad Penn or similar specialized oil. It sounds as if your kicking around the idea of installing a roller anyway and that is always the safest way to go. John Partrige at Bullet Cams set me up with my solid roller for my first gen small block, I know that everybody reccomends Comp Cams and their stuff is great so you can't go wrong with either.

Dale

[sr73bu]

Thanks for the replys everyone... I guess i'm trying to put some insurance in my motor... my fear is a long drive and wiping the cam at the worst time (as it always happens)

The setup is as follows:

REBUILT STOCK bottom end: 2 bolt mains

64cc World Product Sportman 2 heads (Iron) w/ screw in studs

Comp Cams (forgot the P#, but can get it) HD valve springs (good up 575 lift, I believe)

Comp Cams Magnum pushrods (again, no P#, but I can get it)

Comp Cams Magnum 1.6 stamped roller rockers

286 Magnum cam (286/286 Dur / 490 lift)

Performer RPM intake

Holley 750

from my estimates its about a 10:1 Comp ratio

from my research, i'll just need to by the kit with cam/lifters/button/ and possibly longer push rods (i'll call Comp to get that info)

-Sean

[Lowend]

Personally - I've been most impressed with Crower's Hyd Roller cam setups. Very high quality and well engineered.

Plan on ponying up for a setup of true roller rockers...

I'm liking Crower Cam 00404 (http://www.crower.com/index.php/search-results/) it's got a little more duration but a wider lobe separation than what you're running now. That should spread the power band out a bit and make a little more juice up top
Just get Crower's matching component kit (84544) and you are set with the springs/pushrods/lifters ect.

You may need to machine the valve spring seats on those heads as the valve springs are larger in diameter than "stock" GM's

[ArtosDracon]

That is a LOT more money and effort than he likely needs.

Upgraded springs and a used flat tappet cam would make me nervous personally. If you have the money, then now would be time to drop a new cam in it, and you may as well get a roller, slightly better power and good insurance. If you would like I should be able to drop your specs into a dyno program in about 24 hours and let you know about Cams. I don't like just about ANY off the shelf cams made today. Too many people take the cam companies advice and ignore the proper ways to build an engine in favor of just throwing in a big cam with too much LCA and are happy when their butt dyno says it's better.

Your peak HP should be decided by your head choice, then where you get that power, and your torque curve should be decided by your cam. Unless you're fuel injected and your computer requires it, like the LS guys, you don't need more than 112* of LSA and on a 10:1 build with decent heads, you could easily be looking at 109-110.

[sr73bu]

Thanks for all of your help...

I'll make my decision soon...

My friends father (built a few engines), thinks I should leave it in... He said if it hasn't flattened by now I should be fine as long as I keep adding Zinc Additives.... I followed all assembly/ break in procedures so I guess i'm just paranoid...

I may just wait and see how it goes :fingersx:... since its about $1000+ to go roller....

Man i can't make up my mind!

Thanks again!

-Sean