Ball Joint Stuck!

[tnbandit]

I was cutting a half coil off my front springs this weekend. Driver side, no problem. Passenger side, NO GOOD. I broke a ball joint pickle fork trying to get that thing apart last night. I hammered and hammered(5 lb. brass hammer) on the bolt and control arm. Soaked it in PB Blaster, let it set all night. Still no good. Tried a small propane torch for heat, not happening. The thing won't budge! What can I do? Anybody want to come break this loose? lol:help:

[MrQuick]

hitting the threaded stud does very little.

Try hitting the spindle side with a medium iron hammer. Works for me all the time. Also lower the car and try to place a 2x4 between the upper arm and the frame. Then raise the car. This will lessen the angle on the studs. Disconnect the tie rod so you can get a good swing on it. Crank the spindle to one side. You want to get a good hit on the beefy section where the BJ stud goes through.

I like to leave the nut on at least 2 turns or place a jack under but not supporting the control arm. You want to let the control arm free to drop a bit.
Vince

[tnbandit]

Ok, I'll give that a try in the morning. Thanks

[novaderrik]

when you were hammering on it, did you have a jack under the ball joint?
if so, take the jack out and let the spring pressure do the work for you. a few good wacks and even the most stubborn of balljoints pop out if the spring is pushing on it.

[tnbandit]

No jack was out. but i did leave the nut on a few threads as Mr quick suggested. so if it did pop loose it wouldnt fall completely out.

[ZZ430]

Use the right tool, either buy one or rent one.

[tnbandit]

right tool as in pickle fork?.....i already stated i had one and it broke. got another one and still no luck!

[novaderrik]

i think it was David Pozzi that invented a balljoint separator tool that fits in between the upper and lower balljoints and pushes them apart.

[John Wright]

Have you tried one of these on a air chisel?

http://www.tooltopia.com/k-tool-international-81996.aspx?utm_source=nextag&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=KTI81996&utm_campaign=nextag_r1

[wmhjr]

i think it was David Pozzi that invented a balljoint separator tool that fits in between the upper and lower balljoints and pushes them apart.

Marcus sells these. I bought one. SO much better than smacking the friggin ball joints around!

[bochnak]

Marcus sells these. I bought one. SO much better than smacking the friggin ball joints around!

I made 1 for a few bucks. Go to the hardware store and buy 2 bolts and a coupler. I like to use bolts/coupler which have the same hex/wrench size as the BJ's.

[wmhjr]

I made 1 for a few bucks. Go to the hardware store and buy 2 bolts and a coupler. I like to use bolts/coupler which have the same hex/wrench size as the BJ's.

The one advantage to the ones that Marcus has is that they have larger pivot ends, so you're not twisting on the studs when you expand and they take care of odd angles - plus they're beefier. To be honest, they aren't very expensive. You have a great idea for a home made tool if you don't plan to use it much, but now that I have mine, I've used it a bunch of times already. Way more than I expected. The one from Marcus was a whopping $19.90!

[JRouche]

Ive separated a few ball joints over the years. Always used a pickle fork. Never broke one though. And they do have an up and down side just for some that forgot, I did once :)

I am against hammering on the spindle, just not kosher for me.

For a really stuck joint I made a sleeve for my dewalt jack hammer.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/jackhammer_dewalt-1.jpg

Yes, it was a major task. Had to stand up on the work bench above the vice holding this big hammer on the pickle fork. Just hammering away. This was after using a two pound sledge on the pickle fork and wearing me out. The joint finally popped loose. Not fun. Pickle fork never broke.

A spreader (press) type ball joint separator would be the hot ticket I think. I need to add one to my tool box. Hammering and forcing just doesnt sound right, kinda primitive. Forcing a wedge in between to parts doesnt sound as productive as pressing the pin out directly. But usually the pickle fork works with just a couple whacks.

I wont be standing on the bench anymore for a ball joint. Before that happens Ill take the advise from you guys. JR

[tnbandit]

Ok so I'm still not making progress. Tried the block of wood between the upper control arm and frame as suggested by Mr. Quick. Then I thought if I took the upper ball joint loose, I could just slide the whole spindle off the lower ball joint. But even the upper BJ is stuck! What the hell do I need to do to get these things loose?!?

[ZZ430]

right tool as in pickle fork?.....i already stated i had one and it broke. got another one and still no luck!

No, check a Snap-on or Matco catalog.

[John Wright]

Ok...worst case senerio...you could take the lower control arms loose at the frame.....lower it down with the floor jack(be sure to have the car already up high enough to let the control arm swing down far enough to get the spring out).

Not the preffered way, but it can be done with caution.

Then you could get at that buggar and give it a real kick in the butt with the hammer to get it loose.....if that still doesn't work, take the upper control arm loose and take the arms and spindle somewhere that has the tools to get it apart for you....this shouldn't be that difficult, I'm wondering what is up.

[wmhjr]

Ok so I'm still not making progress. Tried the block of wood between the upper control arm and frame as suggested by Mr. Quick. Then I thought if I took the upper ball joint loose, I could just slide the whole spindle off the lower ball joint. But even the upper BJ is stuck! What the hell do I need to do to get these things loose?!?

I think you had a couple answers. You need to either make the tool yourself or buy the tool from Marcus. That'll get the spindles off and you can do what you want.

ESPECIALLY if you have tall ball joints (don't know if you do) the pickle fork is a real problem.

[BonzoHansen]

The local advance auto 'loans' tools and they have the tool you need.

[bochnak]

Buy the tool here:

http://scandc.com/tools.htm

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif


Or use your imagination and make one. This tool/method works really well w/o tearing boots.

[tnbandit]

Buy the tool here:

http://scandc.com/tools.htm

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif


Or use your imagination and make one. This tool/method works really well w/o tearing boots.
Ok now i'm seeing how this would be a better tool for the job. i wasn't understanding the whole coupler idea.

[bochnak]

Ok now i'm seeing how this would be a better tool for the job. i wasn't understanding the whole coupler idea.

BTW, I put a small counterbore on each bolt head so it won't slip off BJ stud.

[MrQuick]

wow, sorry you are having issues. We never had one this bad.


Vince

[KWIKND]

Have you put away the brass hammer and tried a medium sledge yet?
Just like baseball its all about bat speed!!
Also a simple punch end (cut off the chisel point) on an air hammer works good too.
Good Luck,
Dan

[tnbandit]

Buy the tool here:

http://scandc.com/tools.htm

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif


Or use your imagination and make one. This tool/method works really well w/o tearing boots.

OK I had my coworkers in the tooling department make me one of these using hardened steel drilled in the center and 5/8 nut welded to it. I can use different length bolts depending on my application. All my bolts and the bottom of the tool itself were counter sunk to allow it to sit on the BJ stud effectively. I'll. Try to get pics of it later.

[MrQuick]

man, must be nice to have a tooling department. LOL


vince

[tnbandit]

So here's my tool I had made. Very similar in design.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/5e7a239c-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/f034f111-1.jpg
We used a 1" allen wrench cut to about 4 inches. Drill a 5/8 hole in one end with a 5/8 hex nut welded on and counter sunk the other end to sit on the ball joint stud. Then I can use Whatever length 5/8 bolt I need to get the job done. All bolt heads are also counter sunk.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/ecefaf51-1.jpg
Turned on the bolt till it couldnt turn anymore(not by me anyway) and the studs still have not budged! Why the hell are these being so stubborn? Even hammered on the spindle with the pressure being on it and still no luck! Do I just need to torch them or cut them with a saw? This is getting very frustrating as I cant put it back together to get it to a shop either. Any other suggestions? Does this tool look right? Is there something I'm missing?

[MrQuick]

crap, I though we were going to hear some good news.

Get a coil spring compressor drop it down the shock hole, hook up to the spring and hold the spring up then pull the control arms with the spindles.

If you still can't get them apart off the car then start looking for replacments.

where are you located?


Vince

[tnbandit]

West tennessee, About halfway between Memphis & Nashville.

[John Wright]

wow, sorry you are having issues. We never had one this bad.


Vince+1...never ran into one of these that was as stubborn as the one you have there....

[John Wright]

Try your tool again and add some heat to the spindle right where the stud goes through the spindle...then hit it with your hammer...something has got to give.

[a67]

Most likely the ball joint stud nuts were over torqued. Or maybe someone thought red locktite was a good idea...

Anyway, when you strike the knuckle where the stud passes through, back up the opposite side with a larger hammer. This will help (a lot) in popping the stud loose.

With a back up hammer the force is concentrated into that area of the knuckle.

Bob.

[tnbandit]

What's a backup hammer?

[MrQuick]

thats where you put a hammer against the impact surface then hit that hammer with a larger hammer or hit the surface on the opposite side with an equal sized hammer... can you walk and chew bubble gum at the same time? it helps
Vince

[John Wright]

What's a backup hammer?
place an additional hammer(preferrably a heavy one) on the backside of where you are striking...(back up hammer) this will send more of the blow directly into the part ...just like driving nails in a 2x4.....if you hit a nail in a 2x4 and the 2x4 bounces, then you can't drive the nail in....use a back up hammer and you can drive the nail all the way in one hit.



edit: whoops!...what he^^^ said

[a67]

thats where you put a hammer against the impact surface then hit that hammer with a larger hammer or hit the surface on the opposite side with an equal sized hammer... can you walk and chew bubble gum at the same time? it helps
Vince

NO, don't do that! Never hit one hammer with another. Hammer faces are hardened and will readily chip and throw a piece into the nearest eye-ball.


A back up hammer is placed opposite of the striking surface on the knuckle.

IOW, place the back up hammer on one side of the knuckle, then strike the knuckle opposite of it. This way the knuckle is wedged between the two hammers.

Bob.

[tnbandit]

OK. I'll give that a try. Got to find another hammer.

[John Wright]

NO, don't do that! Never hit one hammer with another. Hammer faces are hardened and will readily chip and throw a piece into the nearest eye-ball.


A back up hammer is placed opposite of the striking surface on the knuckle.

IOW, place the back up hammer on one side of the knuckle, then strike the knuckle opposite of it. This way the knuckle is wedged between the two hammers.

Bob.Whoa...yup, I agree. I read the response too quickly and thought he said the same thing I did.....

yeah DO NOT hit two hammers together, people can die that way...a sliver can shear off of the hammer's surface at enough velocity to go right through ya.

[6'9"Witha69]

So here's my tool I had made. Very similar in design.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/5e7a239c-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/f034f111-1.jpg
We used a 1" allen wrench cut to about 4 inches. Drill a 5/8 hole in one end with a 5/8 hex nut welded on and counter sunk the other end to sit on the ball joint stud. Then I can use Whatever length 5/8 bolt I need to get the job done. All bolt heads are also counter sunk.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/ecefaf51-1.jpg
Turned on the bolt till it couldnt turn anymore(not by me anyway) and the studs still have not budged! Why the hell are these being so stubborn? Even hammered on the spindle with the pressure being on it and still no luck! Do I just need to torch them or cut them with a saw? This is getting very frustrating as I cant put it back together to get it to a shop either. Any other suggestions? Does this tool look right? Is there something I'm missing?
Just to be sure, put some anti sieze on the threads of the bolt into the shaft. It may help get a little more movement. Also, turn the wheels and see about getting as pong a lever on the wrench doing the turning as possible.

And the backup hammer works well too once there is as much pressure as possible between the BJ studs.

[Olav]

http://www.biltema.no/no/Bil---MC/Verktoy-og-verkstedutstyr/Avtrekker/Endeleddavtrekker/

Try to get one of these...

[Charley Lillard]

My experience tells me you aren't hitting the knuckle hard enough. How big is your hammer ? With the tool you made applying pressure , a good whack on the side of the knuckle should do it.

[tnbandit]

its a wooden handled claw hammer not sure of the weight. I'd say 2 lbs. And its hitting hard enough to throw sparks.

[jknight16]

You need a 5lb "engineer's hammer" at least. You're generating speed with that claw hammer but there's no "torque" upon impact.

[6'9"Witha69]

A single jack at least.

[MrQuick]

NO, don't do that! Never hit one hammer with another. Hammer faces are hardened and will readily chip and throw a piece into the nearest eye-ball.


A back up hammer is placed opposite of the striking surface on the knuckle.

IOW, place the back up hammer on one side of the knuckle, then strike the knuckle opposite of it. This way the knuckle is wedged between the two hammers.

Bob.
I like to live on the edge of death.....don't you guys wear face shields and leather clad kevlar jackets when your in the shop? I do...safety glasses and face shield and I've never seen a hammer shatter. What kind of hammers break? The Mythbusters couldn't do it with a quality hammer.

seriously yeah, be safe and use safety equipment.

I just can believe this is giving the poor guy this much grief. Nuts.


Hold on...sparks? you need to hit it square...a grazing hit will create sparks. Should contact flat and a dead stop blow. Doubt you are generating much force with the claw hammer. Get youself a big ball peen...I love these 40 oz-er's,
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Charlies right, you need to get in there and swing on it. try to hit it square at these sections and opposite side for the bottom. I'd pull the caliper and rotor off, pop off the tie rod and crank the spindle to what ever side you can get a nice swing in but hit it square.
https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=38575&d=1275617276

Vince

[Charley Lillard]

Get a bigger hammer. What you are using is too small. You will see. A 4 or 5 pound hammer will work.

[novaderrik]

its a wooden handled claw hammer not sure of the weight. I'd say 2 lbs. And its hitting hard enough to throw sparks.

the biggest claw hammer i've seen is a 28 oz framing hammer. i have a few 20oz framing hammers from my days building trusses, and most people that have never swung a hammer for a living think they are insanely huge since the hammers in most people's houses are 16oz or smaller.

so in conclusion, your hammer is too small- get a bigger hammer. even with 9 years of swinging a hammer 12 hours a day building trusses, my mighty Craftman fiberglass 20oz hammers usually aren't big enough to get balljoints to pop apart. a 2lb sledge would be a good investment for you at this point. also, don't be afraid to swing that thing.

[tnbandit]

Thanks guys. I'll try to swing by Walmart tonight but doubt they'll have anything like that. Maybe Lowes this weekend. This is frustrating.

[CarlC]

Wallmart will have a big enough hammer.

Also, it's likely that the threads on the ball joints are damaged from the separator. Use a thread file to correct them, or replace the joint. It's a lot easier to fix this stuff before trying to re-assemble.

[MrQuick]

Thanks guys. I'll try to swing by Walmart tonight but doubt they'll have anything like that. Maybe Lowes this weekend. This is frustrating.
i know, its upsetting us too and its not even our car. LOL

We hope you get this fricken ball joint loose!!
Vince

[tnbandit]

Oh trust me I've got all new parts going back in. Once this puppy breaks loose I got all new ball joints upper & lower and all new control arm bushings. Just stock rubber as I can't afford. The good stuff LOL.

[JRouche]

Geeze, wonder why I used the pile driver and a pickle fork. Yeah, a pain, you have to remove the control arms to use it. But mine wasnt budging, no matter what. It was a 1971 car and prolly original ball joints.

I dont like hitting the spindle so much. But I do think if you were to lube the threads of your tool and apply all the force that you could (before breaking it) and give the spindle some solid taps with a nice 3lbs sledge it should snap open.

But if it doesnt I wouldnt keep hammering on the spindle. And Im talking about a decent swing. Say about a foot and a half. Some decent hits. It should pop loose with the preloaded tool.

If it doesnt I would think about removing the control arm(s) and taking it to the bench or press. When I did my difficult ball joints I was gonna replace them anyway. So I wasnt concerned about wrecking the surface of the joint or the boot. But I didnt want to hurt the spindle. With the tool (pickle fork) placed correctly it put all the load on the ball joint, not the spindle. The wedge goes on the ball joint, not the spindle.

Not saying you should have to go my route. But just in case.

Oh, and after removing my ball joints the pin of the joint was clean and smooth as well as the bore on the spindle. I have NO idea why it grabbed so tightly. Just one of those things.

And why didnt I take it right to the 50 ton press? Well to be honest I didnt think it was gonna need that. And to make up a holder for the entire thing would have taken me just as much time. I had the control arms out anyway for other work.

I still like the pickle forks. Just gotta make sure to put the wedge on the ball joint side and not the spindle side. And use a really BFH! In my case it was the jack hammer :) Oh, and when my control arms were clamped up in the vice I tried using one of my biggest sledges on the pickle fork. It wasnt doing anything cept giving me a workout. Thats when I brought out the pile driver. JR

[tnbandit]

WOO HOO!!!!!!!!!!! FINALLY the mechanical gods have smiled down on me! It finally broke loose with the separator tool. First the top joint broke loose, then I realigned my spreader tightened it a little and about 3 good whacks with a 3 lb ball peen hammer was all it took.Thanks for all the advice and tips. Now just waiting on parts to arrive and start the reassembly process. Hopefully that won't be such a pain.

When replacing the control arm bushings, will i have to have those pressed out & new pressed back in? Also the lower ball joints, do I need to get those pressed in on just let the castle nut draw it in? Thanks again.

[John Wright]

Woohoo!...glad you got it....it was bothering me and it wasn't even my car....(just like MrQuick said)

You guys will probably laugh....I use the hammer end of a fiberglassed handled firewood splitting maul....not sure of the weight but it fits up in the fender well area and allows a good hard smack at the spindle...never fails to unstick a ball joint in one whack.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/049206666207xl-1.jpg

[wmhjr]

When replacing the control arm bushings, will i have to have those pressed out & new pressed back in? Also the lower ball joints, do I need to get those pressed in

Yes, and Yes. If you're using stock control arms the old bushings need pressed out and new ones pressed in. The lower balls need to be pressed in.

[John Wright]

There is an easy to use ball joint press(fairly inexpensive tool) that you can use if you want to squeeze in a new lower ball joint into the LCA. As for taking the old one out....I now use a press because I have one, but I used to just support the LCA over a short 3-4" piece of pipe and hit the stud with a large hammer and it will drive right out.

[wmhjr]

Yeah John, you're right. I guess I just always figured if I need to have access to a press anyway to put the new ones in, just press the old ones out also. But not everyone has access to a good press.

A little heat can also help if you're not pressing the old ones out.

[68firebird]

Here's the press I used to remove the old ball joints and install the new ones, worked great.

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-1-ball-joint-u-joint-c-frame-press-service-kit-38335.html

The bushings on the other hand were more difficult for me. I made one of those homemade removal tools, which worked pretty well, but I couldn't press the new ones back in, so I actually dropped mine off at my local shop and had them press the new ones in, he charged me $15 a piece, well worth it to me to get it done the right way.

[tnbandit]

My work has a small hydraulic press that would do the job, but i'm not sure what kind of coupling to use to keep from damaging the bushings and ball joint. Maybe a similar sized socket?

[John Wright]

My work has a small hydraulic press that would do the job, but i'm not sure what kind of coupling to use to keep from damaging the bushings and ball joint. Maybe a similar sized socket?
yes...I use a piece of pipe the same diameter to press in and a piece of pipe slightly larger underneath to press them out.


Control arm bushings....Hmm, I used my 20T shop press on the lower bushings, but I swapped the entire upper arms out that came with new bushings. For the uppers, some use a 5/8" diameter threaded rod with large washers/nuts and such to press in and out without bending the arms.

[6'9"Witha69]

Or the local tire shop should be able to do all the CA bushings and LBJs for 20-30 bucks.

[John Wright]

Side note if pressing in the LCA bushing yourself....find a small piece of angle or something to help you keep from crushing the LCA bushing flanges....See pic of my LCA with Del-A-lum bushings...BTW, the bushings came from Global West and they included the piece of angle(pictured) in the bushing kit.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/03/ControlArm1-1.jpg

[MrQuick]

good stuff john,
every shop should have an assortment of pipe and tubing.

holy cow its about time....Im waiting for the "I can't get the old bushings out" thread....

I like to use an air chisle to collapse the inner circumfrence section of shell then the section that is inside the structure on the a arm, then try to get a section of the outside section on the shell part with the edge to stop it from going in too far...if done properly they will literaly fall right out. You can get the same results with a proper hammer and flat chisle.

The ball joint...just cut the boot off and whack it with a hammer while arm body is supported on a table or 4x4. Falls right out.


Vince

[tnbandit]

The ball joint fell out last night when it all came apart. I'm going to work on getting the control arms loose tonight when I get home from work. Wish me luck LOL.

[a67]

I like to live on the edge of death.....don't you guys wear face shields and leather clad kevlar jackets when your in the shop? I do...safety glasses and face shield and I've never seen a hammer shatter. What kind of hammers break? The Mythbusters couldn't do it with a quality hammer.

seriously yeah, be safe and use safety equipment.


Vince

You are really something else. You post a technique that can cause serious bodily injury and then joke about it. I was going to post some pictures of two hammers I picked up at a yard sale. A 4 # mini-sledge and a regular 10 # sledge.

Both have fractures out of the faces and down the sides. Obvious what the guy did.

And note that I never stated that the hammers would shatter. But that they will chip.

But you don't need to believe me. Check out this link:

http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/17562/reader-says-mythbusters-missed-on-hammer-strikes

As I said, never hit one hammer with another. And make sure that you read to comments to the article I linked.

Bob.

[JRouche]

Hi Bob. Ill agree, you really shouldnt hit a hammer with another hammer.

But my reasons are a lil diff. I dont do it because its hard on the tools. I like my tools and dont abuse them. So if I needed another piece of steel in between the object Im trying to hit and the hammer Ill always grab a piece of mild steel. Striking hardened steel against hardened steel is an abuse of tools if they were not meant for the purpose. You will usually see tools that do strike a hardened piece to another as one being a lil softer than the other. Or they are not hardened to the same levels. Think of a firing pin or an impact hammer. There is usually a softer piece in the path of force.

Now I didnt read all the comments on the post you supplied. But I think some of the safety issues might be one or two things.

Abuse of tools. Mushroomed heads on any hammer is an abuse. Heads do get deformed. But its up to the owner of the tool to dress the head of the hammer BEFORE it mushrooms out. Some folks like to just keep on hammering away for years as the head of the hammer mushrooms out and splits apart. YUP.. Thats a grenade waiting to happen.

Second, safety issues. Frickin eye protection!!! Yeah, Im 45 and I would rather loose any of my other bodily functions before my eye sight. Yup, cut and arm, leg. Gimme a poop bag, catheter this or that. And even one of my greatest enjoyments. Yeah, that one. But my eye sight is still number one. So anytime I go to town with a hammer or any other power tools I put on the glasses. I have a set hanging off every machine and five sets laying around ready to grab.

Put ON yer eye protection guys. Ive already been twice to the opto guy to have him dig out some metal. Besides being expensive its kinda painful. JR


You are really something else. You post a technique that can cause serious bodily injury and then joke about it. I was going to post some pictures of two hammers I picked up at a yard sale. A 4 # mini-sledge and a regular 10 # sledge.

Both have fractures out of the faces and down the sides. Obvious what the guy did.

And note that I never stated that the hammers would shatter. But that they will chip.

But you don't need to believe me. Check out this link:

http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/17562/reader-says-mythbusters-missed-on-hammer-strikes

As I said, never hit one hammer with another. And make sure that you read to comments to the article I linked.

Bob.

[MrQuick]

You are really something else. You post a technique that can cause serious bodily injury and then joke about it. I was going to post some pictures of two hammers I picked up at a yard sale. A 4 # mini-sledge and a regular 10 # sledge.



Both have fractures out of the faces and down the sides. Obvious what the guy did.



And note that I never stated that the hammers would shatter. But that they will chip.



But you don't need to believe me. Check out this link:



http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/17562/reader-says-mythbusters-missed-on-hammer-strikes



As I said, never hit one hammer with another. And make sure that you read to comments to the article I linked.



Bob.



actually Bob I am something else and its you that is making a matter of this. This was supposed to be a PM to you but since its out here I will aire it. humor<---
Please: Re read what I posted and you will see that I had no idea what a rehammer or unhammer or whatever it was. I was speculating on what the definition was. Someone asked. I offered no deadly technique. No hammer-fu here.

Another thing I find hinky is how one would get injured from shattering metal when one should clearly use safety glasses and a full face shield when the impacting of metals might be induced. Are we not using metal to impact metal? Seems redundently retorical.

Joke about it? Jokes are funny, that comment was to be taken ironic with the past posts on this thread. Its not as deep as I usually get so it should have been clear. The amount of scatter being circulated was over flowing and I was trying to un agitate our OP friend. The matter was just mind blowing.



If you knew me or have read any of my past threads you will clearly see that I will do my best to try to help someone that might need it. I am serious, I will spend hours, brain storn with collegues.... I don't care how many post counts you have, how much you contribute to the site, how many track days you have under your Simpson.... I will put forth ALL the cranial sucktitude I posses necessary to give aide or help along my fellow brethren to help fellow brethren come to an honest conclusion and get a possible problem solved just moved along dropping down the lonely tech section to be placed in a quiet archive just to be waiting to be pooped out for some member with a similar problem to help him with that ohh moment. <----light bulb



I'm not here to show off my flashy new LED tail lights, my fantastical 3 link suspension I made in Allen's dog house using nothing but used bachelorete party favors or feed the project frenzied wading pool of slightly frozen jello...but to think I would give bad advice that could cause one to loose ones virginity is just preposterous but I will acknowledge your disgust and tip my hat to you and vow, it will never have to cross your 19" monitor this year. <--sarcasum



I will never ever tell you how to think, I will just propose ideas that you can think about. We are all adults and we can make our own decisions.

Please be know that I am aware of my spelling but please understand that I have a very heavy Philippino accent.<--humor





but honestly the hammer deal. you can't always believe what you see on the internet. The mythbusters actually busted (<--pun-y) the hammer exploding hammer myth. I'd believe Cary Grant and Tory but in my heart I am sorry someone in cyber space was injured trying a barbaric method on hammer usage. I truly love hammers enough to not use them at the same time.

Its a misunderstanding that just should not have to be mentioned but yes I went there....lets get together and help someone.

Bob, please. Next time, pm me with a complaint like everyone else does. Most times its just read or typed out of context and just gets ugly with no other communication. Thank for being a great sport. And Cheers to TN bandit for getting it done.

Sincerely Vince

and JR...Mushroomed heads....hard on the tools...poop bag....I just don't know how to address this....silence might keep me out of trouble but it just because I am speechless. LOL My wife thanks you for that. LOL


But if you were to walk in my shop you would also notice eye, ear, head, hand and body protection hanging all over the place. Never give the guys an excuss for not using proper protection.

Mods please do not delete this, its my best work and I hate to have to cut and paste this into yet another thread. <---humor, please don't ban me...no really it is. It may take a few hours to soak. :)

[tnbandit]

Well I like your humor Vince! And honestly humor keeps us sane sometimes with some of these frustrating project we dive into! Right? Or was it left? And as you said we are all adults and make our OWN decisions. No matter how many different methods we are suggested or told to try, we are still accountable for only ourselves and not everyone else. As nobody else is accountable for me, but me. Thanks again for ALL the advice and suggestions!