CS140 wiring

[Grrr]

I'm installing a taurus elec fan in my 65 GTO and eventually AC someday so I had to upgrade my alternator first. I found a CS140 out of a 95 caddy in the boneyard for $20. btw, there's tons of em probably because of cfc and the reason why they are so cheap.




Went straight to autozone to test it. ,...tested good and had quiet bearings. I rotated the clock wiring orientation to straight up instead of 4 oclock. Cleaned it up, changed pulley, it bolted right up and I got the wiring done. It charges right at 14.5 volts.



I've seen several different ways to wire it though. The way I followed wiring it said, on the old external regulator, to jump the outside wires and snip the "extra" resistor brn/wht wire behind the fuse box because it only likes to see "one" resistor ...the gauge light.



My question is ..... the other ways I've seen to wire it also said to jump the 2 inside wires of the external regulator together. Do I need to do that? What do they feed?



The 2 speed taurus fan was only $20 too. Out of a 94 Lincoln continental. I also already installed this same fan in my s10 and it won't budge over 190 with the AC on, with the fan on low, when it used to climb to 210 at a stop light. My GTO easily climbed to 210 even while driving and I rarely drove it during the summer heat. Now hopefully I can drive it year round without worrying about it overheating.

[MonzaRacer]

Ok from your old regulator wires you do jump the 12v key on from dash light to the f terminal(this is what feeds the field terminal at the alternator unless you simply reroute the wiring) this you run to the CSI alt F terminal, run the L terminal from key on through a 10 amp fuse to L terminal.
Now I do something that helps in most of the cases I install the CSI144 alternator on is loop the S terminal over to the battery post on the alternator (the alt has an internal feed but it just helps keep that connection from over heating, ask me how I know) and also make sure you up grade the 10ga charge wire to 8 ga, again ask how I figured out it needs upgrading.
I use similar alternators all the time most are in the 124 to 140 amp output so they really kick butt. and yes older v belts will hold up very well. I added a wiring diagram, it doesnt show using the s terminal wire looping over to battery post but if you look at the alternator internal diagram it shows it.
also remember to crimp AND solder all electrical connections, and I also prefer shrink tubing to protect connections then Ill retape may harness.
Lee Abel
AFTERMARKET PERFORMANCE

[Grrr]

I didn't want to cut my original harness. I disconnected the old external regulator and jumped the 2 outside wires.

I pulled the F pin from the original alt plug and soldered the wire to the new L conn pin in the 144 plug. I DID loop the existing S in the 144 plug to the BAT.

I am going to run a new 8 gauge with a 12 gauge fusable link to a new 30/40 amp fuse box directly from the alt for any new loads so the existing original harness shouldn't be overloaded. correct? I read alot of good stuff over at madelectric and he gives alot of props to the original GM engineers and says not to run a new wire straight from the alt to the battery like you see alot of people recommend, due to overcharging. ....or tap off the battery for high power loads like you see alot of stereo shops do.

I didn't use the other wire in the original harness or the other 2 wires from the 144 plug.

What I didn't do that some have said to do and some haven't ...is connect the 2 inner wires at the old external regulator connection. Disregard the colors.

Like this:




or should it be like this?:

[MonzaRacer]

no need on inner 2 wires as all your doing is looping the 12 volt key on through the idiot light to the F terminal wire for old alternator. Just follow the diagram, I would recommend using the larger 8ga and run it down to the starter or to where your battery positive picks up the old 10 ga, me I make shunts for s terminal on gm starter and use external solenoids on firewall. as for over charging, thats crap. dont believe me look at later model Blazers, big charge wire right from battery to alternator post.
My professional opinion I have never had any CSI alternator nor SI series ever over charge by going straight to battery, you just cant see it if car has amps gauge.
As for over charge, nah the newer alternators can charge as high as 15 volts, I like high to mid 14s, also hook up a volt meter to battery after installing it and flip on some loads, high beams, blower motor. and such, with a used alt hope for no more than 80mV ac if it spike over that check ebay and get a new rectifier bridge. Weak diodes will let too much AC current through and damage a battery. If you have max of 150mV AC or less you will get away with it for while but eventually battery will die.
I see lots of newer tester that wont find ac ripple as they dont look for it till it has steady rpm and not when you turn something on.
Spec for new alternator is 40mV ac, I can live with 50 to 60 on "new" units.
Good Luck and ask any questions you want.

[67 455 Bird ragtop]

Easiest solution is to go to www.wiringharness.com. Enter your car info. Then order part number 37787. No cutting factory harness. It's a plug and play option that converts your old external regulator system into an internal system. They have one setup for the SI type alts and one for the CS type like yours. $19 plus shipping.

[John Wright]

From the site in the post above.....a whole catalog of wiring for your car.

http://www.wiringharness.com/PDFS/GT...ns_Tempest.pdf

[68Formula]

Yup, plug and play. I did the SI conversion (p/n 27755)