Need some advice or maybe more...

[72camaross]

I am stuck guys. I've read, searched, read, searched for countless hours. I can't make a decision so I'm throwing the question out to the guru's.

Currently I have a 68 Camaro subframe, sitting there with not a thing on it. I want to put it back on it's wheels. I am not going to be racing the car, just a driver with some performance. I want it to feel something like a newer car. So here's what I'm looking at/for:

hotchkis TVS suspension
spring and shocks OR coil overs ???
upa/lca tublar or original ???
original steering or rack and pinion ???
power disc brakes (full bolt on packages? performance vs price?)
iroc steering box
solid body bushings
del-a-lum bushings

I keep getting overwhelmed when I start reading about all the different options, AFCO, ATS, AFX, hotchkis, dse, yadda yadda. I just need a direction and some knowledge from people in the know. I suppose a budget is needed. It'd be nice to know a high and low figure then go from there.
PLEASE HELP!!!! thanks guru's!

rookie

[MrQuick]

Just a daily driver? Yeah I heard that before. Next thing you know you'll be at every track day within 400 miles.

DSE arms, not really needed but they look cool. nice cause its Del a lumed Speedtech,globals,Hotchkis pick a set.
Speedtech AFX tall spindles
L&H Pro Billet F, X Body "Short" Steering Arms
Hotchkis springs
Bilstien shocks
Hotchkis hollow sway bar
Lee 600 box
Solid bushings
DSE sub frame connectors

C5 front brakes

Very nice, proven package

[72camaross]

yeah daily driver atleast in the summer months... luckily there is no track within 400 miles of me or you'd probably be right. That's why I want to start with a solid base and be able to upgrade just in case.

are the tall spindles going to affect the size wheels or brakes I can run? I'd like to get a matching brakes on all 4s... not that big of deal though. And are you saying forget about the TVS stuff and just buy what I would need??

Who on this site can hook me up with a package like this at the right price?

Keep the idea's comin guys, I know there's millions of them out there.

[cheapthrillz]

Just a daily driver? Yeah I heard that before. Next thing you know you'll be at every track day within 400 miles.

DSE arms, not really needed but they look cool. nice cause its Del a lumed Speedtech,globals,Hotchkis pick a set.
Speedtech AFX tall spindles
L&H Pro Billet F, X Body "Short" Steering Arms
Hotchkis springs
Bilstien shocks
Hotchkis hollow sway bar
Lee 600 box
Solid bushings
DSE sub frame connectors

C5 front brakes

Very nice, proven package

Hey Vince, could he do the Gulstrand Mod in place of the tall spindles and upper arms to save on costs? I can't remember if the G-mod corrects everything that Tyler's tall spindle and upper arms correct. Just a thought if he's on a budget.

Other than that, everything else that Vince posted sounds great. Most of the sponsors on this site sell this stuff, so just start calling them up!

[72camaross]

Speedtech AFX tall spindles
L&H Pro Billet F, X Body "Short" Steering Arms

What do these give me that my stock ones don't? How does it effect which brake package I go with as well? What would I need to keep as far as stock steering components? All of them or is it best to replace some of them?

So it's possible I could just do something like this:

Stock A-arms and some bushings (del-a-lum or rubber)
Hotchkis springs
Bilstien shocks
Hotchkis hollow sway bar
Lee 600 box
Solid bushings
DSE sub frame connectors

Then some sort of brake package like CPP or Kobe3 or something??


Thanks guys,

If you didn't realize it yet, I'm not good at this stuff and have had this car sitting in the garage for 5 years. Anyone have good experience with certain vendors?

[cheapthrillz]

Speedtech AFX tall spindles
L&H Pro Billet F, X Body "Short" Steering Arms

What do these give me that my stock ones don't? How does it effect which brake package I go with as well? What would I need to keep as far as stock steering components? All of them or is it best to replace some of them?

So it's possible I could just do something like this:

Stock A-arms and some bushings (del-a-lum or rubber)
Hotchkis springs
Bilstien shocks
Hotchkis hollow sway bar
Lee 600 box
Solid bushings
DSE sub frame connectors

Then some sort of brake package like CPP or Kobe3 or something??


Thanks guys,

If you didn't realize it yet, I'm not good at this stuff and have had this car sitting in the garage for 5 years. Anyone have good experience with certain vendors?

You need to do some more research (or this thread will get ugly lol).

Read up on the first gen suspension here:
http://www.pozziracing.com/first_gen_suspension.htm

Then research the G-mod and look through the suspension forums here at P-T.com

[cheapthrillz]

This is taken from David's Website.

<H2>Below is my response to a suspension geometry question from the Team Camaro Forum

The question relates to the Guldstrand mod and if lowering the upper A frame more than Guldstrand recommends, or using a taller spindle plus the Guldstrand mod to get more negative camber gain is a good idea.

Please understand that you can't focus ONLY on camber gain. As they say, a little knowledge is dangerous, and in the case of suspension geometry I feel it's VERY true. If you are going to change anything from stock, it's a good idea to understand all the ramifications of your "improvements". Since most everything concerning your suspension is interelated, one change usually affects other aspects of your suspension.Changing upper A frame mounting location will change:

Camber curve, or gain.
Side scrub of the tire tread.
Bumpsteer
Roll center height, and amount of RCH movement- up and down and SIDEWAYS! (not kidding)
Roll stiffness
The roll center height affects driver feel, roll stiffness, how much of the cornering roll torque is fed through the springs, shocks, sway bars, vs how much is fed directly via the geometry to the tire.
EXTREME EXAMPLE: If the roll center were raised to the same height as the center of gravity, NO roll torque would be fed through the suspension at all! The car would not be tuneable by changing sway bars or springs!
SO lowering the upper A frame usually will raise the front roll center, increase the neg camber gain, increase tire side scrub, the higher roll center will move more - the more you lower the upper A frame mount. If it get's too high, the tires will tend to break loose if small bumps or undulations are hit in a corner. The suspension- springs, shocks, swaybar, should be softened to accept the resulting lowered roll torque generated.
The starting point "should" be the tires, and what they require for best performance. Some tires need more negative camber than others.
You should temper tire requirements with the application, street, track, drag, roadrace, autocross, type of track, type of pavement, banking, bumps, etc.
They all have specific requirements from geometry to setup, and how much wear can be tolerated. I assume you would be concerned if your front tires wore out the inside edge in 500 miles?
You would then set up your suspension geometry, springs, swaybars, shocks, alignment, to best work with "that" tire.
The Guldstrand mod lowers the upper mount about an inch or just a bit under that.
It retains low tire side scrub, stable roll center movement and height, some beneficial negative camber gain.
Consider that my 89 IROC camaro had 1/2 to 3/4 degree static neg camber with the adjsters moved all the way in. The McPherson strut suspension added little in negative camber gain during roll.
Late vettes have similar neg camber gain much less than the Guldstrand mod. I don't have the figures, but the A frame angles I see lead me to that conclusion.
The newer radial tires have SOME ideal requirement for camber. But I don't know what that is! THAT is the burning question, and the starting point for the suspension geometry improvement proccess.
That data is generally only known by suspension and tire engineers.
TRADEOFFS.

Why not lower the holes more than Guldstrand did?

More negative camber gain might be better, but it could easily be worse in other areas.
You brake hard at the end of a long straightaway, now the tires are unevenly loaded on the inside edge during straight ahead braking! Result-poor braking, wheel locking.
Example two, you brake hard and turn into a corner, - all is good, you then get past the middle of the corner, get on the gas, the front end raises up under acceleration, now the camber curve goes the other way! The tire will lean out more! Your increased neg camber curve cranks camber out of the outside front tire, is that good? Result- corner exit understeer.
You enter a long high speed sweeper, the car is under power, front lifts a bit higher than static ride height due to power applied and aero lift. BUT you need to corner hard, you are on a flat curve going 90mph. How much negative camber did you lose? how much understeer are you going to have?
The best I can say is "dont' get greedy", people do break the rules sometimes, I've seen some crazy stuff work and win, especially on a circle track sprint type car. Those guys have some wierd ideas! But, circle tracks do not have flat or off-camber corners.
TUBULAR ARMS VS THE GULDSTRAND MOD

The Guldstrand mod increases negative camber gain, when the car leans (rolls) in a turn, the tire will not lean out as much as it does with stock geometry. It will also raise the front roll center making it more compatable with the rear roll center height.

Stock upper A arms can achieve around 3 degrees positive caster. "Properly" made Tubular upper arms allow higher positive caster alginment settings with pretty close to the same amount of shims front and rear. Increased positive caster from tubular upper arms can eleminate the tire leaning out when turning sharply. Steering effort will increase, but if you have power steering it won't matter. There are also dynamic weight jacking effects from high caster.

Park your Camaro on level ground and turn the wheels to the right to full lock, the left front tire will lean outward, (positive camber) by about 3 to 4 degrees, increased positive caster of around 5 degrees will keep the tire vertical. Remember the chassis will dive and roll in a turn and you need excess neg camber gain to make up for that.

A First Gen Camaro has 8.75 degrees steering axis inclination* (SAI) built into it, If you were able to turn the front wheels sharper to a 90 deg turn, the wheels would camber out by 8.75 degrees, minus any positive caster you have set. You can't turn your front wheels that sharply, but you can turn them around 26 degrees, which is almost 30% of 90 degrees.

In general, more neg camber gain via the Guldstrand mod will help most on large sweeper type corners, - generally high speed turns.

The tubular upper arms will allow 5 degrees positive caster with minimum shim stack which isn't achieveable with stock arms, usually 3 deg + is all you can get. Large amounts of caster tends to help most when the wheels are turned very sharply, like at an autocross, but it does help a bit on larger radius turns. The nice thing about positive caster is, it goes away when you point the wheels straight ahead, so you can use less neg camber setting

* SAI, Steering Axis Inclination, draw a line from top balljoint to bottom balljoint this is the rotation axis of the front wheel, a First Gen Camaro SAI is 8.75 deg from vertical with the top balljoint closer to the center of the car than the lower.
</H2>

[72camaross]

You need to do some more research (or this thread will get ugly lol).

Read up on the first gen suspension here:
http://www.pozziracing.com/first_gen_suspension.htm

Then research the G-mod and look through the suspension forums here at P-T.com

haha thanks for the input. That stuff is way over my head and I won't be doing any racing. It is a driver so I think I may be ok with just stock components then if I ever want to upgrage I can pick up some tubular arms.

trust me I've been reading pozzi's site and PT and Camaros.net for a while trying to find a solution that fits my needs/budget and that overal I'll be happy with.

[cheapthrillz]

haha thanks for the input. That stuff is way over my head and I won't be doing any racing. It is a driver so I think I may be ok with just stock components then if I ever want to upgrage I can pick up some tubular arms.

trust me I've been reading pozzi's site and PT and Camaros.net for a while trying to find a solution that fits my needs/budget and that overal I'll be happy with.

Most of it goes over my head also..... I think the main thing that seperates the performance handling characteristics of a first gen from a new car is.... god help me.... "the poor suspension geometry".

David Pozzi would be the guy to talk to about your situation.... He (and others) "tried" to help me with my Father's car, but it wasn't in the budget and the subframe had already been painted.

Here is the thread I started. Same kind of questions as yours:
https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32401

[72camaross]

Most of it goes over my head also..... I think the main thing that seperates the performance handling characteristics of a first gen from a new car is.... god help me.... "the poor suspension geometry".

David Pozzi would be the guy to talk to about your situation.... He (and others) "tried" to help me with my Father's car, but it wasn't in the budget and the subframe had already been painted.

Here is the thread I started. Same kind of questions as yours:
https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32401


I read your thread. It is very similar to what I'm looking at. I do want to correct some of the geometry now and get a good ride height and stance.
I wonder if I could get away with the GW uca/hotchkis 2" drop springs and shocks/SSBC brake kit.
How do you like that kit?

The thing with the ATS spindles is I don't know if I'll end up with C5 brakes or not and don't know if I want to spend that much. I think I could be happy with the stockers

[Fesler built]

If you are looking to save money you can run with a Hotchkis suspension and it will be fine for what you want. Do a nice base system and dont go overboard. You dont need all the other stuff unless you want more. Your car with uppers and lowers will run great and only if you want to blow the extra coin do you need to keep going. Everyone wants to sell products but if you are on a budget and want a great driving car Hotchkis and Global West have great inexpensive systems to run.

[ProdigyCustoms]

Your asking our number one Project Planning question. And we sell and build mild to wild set ups starting with Hotchkis TVS all the way up to AME and DSE set ups, and everything in between.

Having a full line of products, we can help you get the best products for your project, not the best for our pocket book since we will make a few pennies no matter which product you buy.

[72camaross]

If you are looking to save money you can run with a Hotchkis suspension and it will be fine for what you want. Do a nice base system and dont go overboard. You dont need all the other stuff unless you want more. Your car with uppers and lowers will run great and only if you want to blow the extra coin do you need to keep going. Everyone wants to sell products but if you are on a budget and want a great driving car Hotchkis and Global West have great inexpensive systems to run.


Are you talking stock uppers/lowers or the GW? I'm thinkin pretty mild is all I need.

[72camaross]

Your asking our number one Project Planning question. And we sell and build mild to wild set ups starting with Hotchkis TVS all the way up to AME and DSE set ups, and everything in between.

Having a full line of products, we can help you get the best products for your project, not the best for our pocket book since we will make a few pennies no matter which product you buy.


Thanks! I was hoping you'd pop in. I think all I need a mild street set up that will give the ride height and stance I want. Maybe you can PM what you'd recommend along with the stock parts I have and we can set something up.

[cheapthrillz]

Thanks! I was hoping you'd pop in. I think all I need a mild street set up that will give the ride height and stance I want. Maybe you can PM what you'd recommend along with the stock parts I have and we can set something up.

You'll probably have to call Frank and talk to him. He stays busy. If you called him and told him your budget, he would definately hook you up with the best system you can afford. And at a good price.

[67rstbkt]

I'm in the same boat, except I've pulled the trigger and started putting this stuff together. Hopefully, it will give me what I want. Here's my setup for my '67


welded the stock subframe
global west upper arms (poly bushings)
stock lower arms (poly bushings)
Guldstrand mod
Global west solid sub frame bushings and subframe connectors
Good quality lowering springs and a nice set of shocks (still need to purchase)
still need to pick out the steering box

[72camaross]

I'm in the same boat, except I've pulled the trigger and started putting this stuff together. Hopefully, it will give me what I want. Here's my setup for my '67


welded the stock subframe
global west upper arms (poly bushings)
stock lower arms (poly bushings)
Guldstrand mod
Global west solid sub frame bushings and subframe connectors
Good quality lowering springs and a nice set of shocks (still need to purchase)
still need to pick out the steering box


Do you mind if I ask where you're at $$ wise? If not that's ok. You can PM if you prefer. You basically have started pulling the trigger on the stuff I'm looking at and thinking about. What do you plan to do for brakes?

[67rstbkt]

Do you mind if I ask where you're at $$ wise? If not that's ok. You can PM if you prefer. You basically have started pulling the trigger on the stuff I'm looking at and thinking about. What do you plan to do for brakes?


Sure, no problem. I've accumulated some of this stuff as deals come up so the pricing may vary from what it costs brand new. If you check the for sale section on this site and lat-g, you can find good deals on new stuff.

I found a subframe locally that was in much better shape than the one I had. The guy had basically stripped it down, converted to a stock type disk brake setup, and changed all the bushings out to poly. That cost me $700

Global West upper arms (poly bushings): purchased in the for sale section from another member on this site: $375

Guldstrand mod: Can be free, but I purchased the template for $18 from Guldstrand motorsports. I figure they probably deserve something for it, even if it's just a piece of paper.

Welded frame: free - I welded it myself, so just time

Global West Solid sub frame mounts: about $100 from Summit racing

Powdercoat: I stripped the frame down to metal and found a guy that gave me a good deal (I think): $250

So the total so far is: $1443

I still need to buy shocks, springs, and subframe connectors. I'll most likely use the disc brake setup that came with the subframe I bought (at least for awhile). Everything was brand new, the guy did all the work, then went a different direction, so I should be able to reuse most of the rest of the steering components and lower control arms. I posted some pics of where my subframe is at in my build thread. I should have it mounted up by this weekend and will be starting on assembling the suspension soon after.

[MrQuick]

Hey Vince, could he do the Gulstrand Mod in place of the tall spindles and upper arms to save on costs? I can't remember if the G-mod corrects everything that Tyler's tall spindle and upper arms correct. Just a thought if he's on a budget.

Other than that, everything else that Vince posted sounds great. Most of the sponsors on this site sell this stuff, so just start calling them up!



Speedtech AFX tall spindles
L&H Pro Billet F, X Body "Short" Steering Arms

What do these give me that my stock ones don't? How does it effect which brake package I go with as well? What would I need to keep as far as stock steering components? All of them or is it best to replace some of them?

So it's possible I could just do something like this:

Stock A-arms and some bushings (del-a-lum or rubber)
Hotchkis springs
Bilstien shocks
Hotchkis hollow sway bar
Lee 600 box
Solid bushings
DSE sub frame connectors

Then some sort of brake package like CPP or Kobe3 or something??


Thanks guys,

If you didn't realize it yet, I'm not good at this stuff and have had this car sitting in the garage for 5 years. Anyone have good experience with certain vendors?

We put a set of AFX spindles on a customers car with stock arms rebuilt with ES poly bushings , a chopped MOOG BBC A/C coil spring, a Hotchkis bar and an ATS/Lee box. It rode so well and improved the the down falls of the stock suspension. The customer was very happy.

Thats a cheaper list, you can even get down and dirty with the shocks and springs but honestly...
Of all the Items I have listed the AFX spindle should not be a list throw away, should be a staple.
Over stock spindles You get:
real proven geometry improvments in camber gain, "substantial bump steer improvments without the tirewear"
"a large sealed bearing hub". Reduces brake noise and gives an overall road feel of smooth.
"Easily mount larger C5 C6 brakes".
"Lighter than the factory spindle".
"" = 4 things the Guldstrand mod does not address.
I always recommend DSE arms because it has Del A lums and for the caster gain so you don't have a crazy shim pack.

Toss the parts list around to save cash but the AFX should be a given.

I know how these threads go and everyone gets butt hurt but these add ons are what I do and would do on my own cars. I am not going to get into a big bash about my recommendations cause you can take it with a grain of salt or try it out. I have yet to receive a complaint (not counting ugly welds).
72camaroSS if you want to save money, go with Frank at Prodigy customs. He will beat anyone on the planet. With his ties with Speed tech you will be very happy. If it helps with your budget, I will give you a set of my weld in subframe connectors, just pay for shipping. PM me if you are interested.

Now this is for adding on to a stock frame, if I had a no bottom sky's the limit budget, then I'd go full DSE sub frame. Next in line would be Jake's Rod shop frame.
Vince

[cheapthrillz]

bump steer improvments without the tirewear

Ahhhh...... Knew I was missing something important.

Prop's to Vince for the subframe connectors too!

[72camaross]

We put a set of AFX spindles on a customers car with stock arms rebuilt with ES poly bushings , a chopped MOOG BBC A/C coil spring, a Hotchkis bar and an ATS/Lee box. It rode so well and improved the the down falls of the stock suspension. The customer was very happy.

Thats a cheaper list, you can even get down and dirty with the shocks and springs but honestly...
Of all the Items I have listed the AFX spindle should not be a list throw away, should be a staple.
Over stock spindles You get:
real proven geometry improvments in camber gain, "substantial bump steer improvments without the tirewear"
"a large sealed bearing hub". Reduces brake noise and gives an overall road feel of smooth.
"Easily mount larger C5 C6 brakes".
"Lighter than the factory spindle".
"" = 4 things the Guldstrand mod does not address.
I always recommend DSE arms because it has Del A lums and for the caster gain so you don't have a crazy shim pack.

Toss the parts list around to save cash but the AFX should be a given.

I know how these threads go and everyone gets butt hurt but these add ons are what I do and would do on my own cars. I am not going to get into a big bash about my recommendations cause you can take it with a grain of salt or try it out. I have yet to receive a complaint (not counting ugly welds).
72camaroSS if you want to save money, go with Frank at Prodigy customs. He will beat anyone on the planet. With his ties with Speed tech you will be very happy. If it helps with your budget, I will give you a set of my weld in subframe connectors, just pay for shipping. PM me if you are interested.

Now this is for adding on to a stock frame, if I had a no bottom sky's the limit budget, then I'd go full DSE sub frame. Next in line would be Jake's Rod shop frame.
Vince

Vince,
That info is great! Thank you so much and the subframe connectors, well I really don't know what to say I'm too blown away. Maybe you can answer more questions about the AFX spindles. Like am I limited to certain brake packages? Certain steering options?
And with the DSE arms and del-a-lums, I thought the GW arms came the same way? maybe I read something wrong but is there a difference besides brand for those items?
From what you're saying and to meet what I am looking for I think the AFX does have to try to stay on the list, it may just come to a budget thing. I need to figure out what it would cost to do it without the AFX and with (brakes, shocks/springs, steering components, etc). I'm glad you spoke up I don't really know how these threads go and I'm definitly in no position to bash anyones opinions or recommendations!!
Thanks again,
Joel

[cheapthrillz]

I wouldn't worry too much about the c5 brakes.... they are very affordable!

[MrQuick]

If you want to save money you can either buy the C5 brakes used or buy remans. We have used remans in the past with no issues and even with the additional core charge still comes out cheaper than new, life time warranty too.

I know I may sound like an ATS fan boy, I don't stock these, I don't sell them for a living and I don't get commission for using them but from what we have felt, witnessed , experienced just by installing these made it the most single part that you can install and actually feel the difference. The first set we installed was on a stock 67 Camaro and the customer reported a very positive feel and faster mph in a turn. The better brakes are just a by product.

Global west arms are good too. I was just naming arms off the top of my head and Im sure I missed some. Advantage over stock, caster increase, strength and del a lum bushings. Either aftemarket or stockers with Del's.
Steering, you can use a regular 2nd generation Camaro 12:1 ratio box. Great feel and you can still find them cheap. Be sure to reuse your pitman arm.
Shocks, no need for the coil overs. Koni classics will give you a good feel and they are adjustable.
Find a stock 1" bar and put on a set of Energy suspension bushings.
This should have been the post after yours on page one.


I would sit down and do some soul searching. Really feel what yuou plans are. You say you want a nice ride and perform like a new car. Do you want 15" rims? Can you go 17" or even 18" rims? Do you need to stop better? Do you want a lower stance?
Go over your budget and see where you can cut the fat. Put a serious list together then give Frank a call. You will not be sorry.

I am serious about the subframe connectors. If it helps you afford to buy the AFX spindles, they are yours... I don't sell my parts. The only way you get them is if we build your car. When you get your order together send me an email. [email protected] I can give you the sources for the C5 stuff too.


you have access to a welder and weldor right?
vince

[72camaross]

If you want to save money you can either buy the C5 brakes used or buy remans. We have used remans in the past with no issues and even with the additional core charge still comes out cheaper than new, life time warranty too.

I know I may sound like an ATS fan boy, I don't stock these, I don't sell them for a living and I don't get commission for using them but from what we have felt, witnessed , experienced just by installing these made it the most single part that you can install and actually feel the difference. The first set we installed was on a stock 67 Camaro and the customer reported a very positive feel and faster mph in a turn. The better brakes are just a by product.

Global west arms are good too. I was just naming arms off the top of my head and Im sure I missed some. Advantage over stock, caster increase, strength and del a lum bushings. Either aftemarket or stockers with Del's.
Steering, you can use a regular 2nd generation Camaro 12:1 ratio box. Great feel and you can still find them cheap. Be sure to reuse your pitman arm.
Shocks, no need for the coil overs. Koni classics will give you a good feel and they are adjustable.
Find a stock 1" bar and put on a set of Energy suspension bushings.
This should have been the post after yours on page one.


I would sit down and do some soul searching. Really feel what yuou plans are. You say you want a nice ride and perform like a new car. Do you want 15" rims? Can you go 17" or even 18" rims? Do you need to stop better? Do you want a lower stance?
Go over your budget and see where you can cut the fat. Put a serious list together then give Frank a call. You will not be sorry.

I am serious about the subframe connectors. If it helps you afford to buy the AFX spindles, they are yours... I don't sell my parts. The only way you get them is if we build your car. When you get your order together send me an email. [email protected] I can give you the sources for the C5 stuff too.


you have access to a welder and weldor right?
vince

Hey Vince,

I've been doing the soul searching. I ended up paying off a lot of debt which was good but took away from my car fund so that is now in the process of being rebuilt. From the posts I've been reading the C5 setup is definitly the way to go for me and my budget for a solid brake setup. My plans are to have the car sit lower (not too low) with 17" wheels (I don't mind 18"s except the price) and drive it. There are no tracks or drag strips near me so I'm not even worried about any of that. My biggest concern is to just have a solid car that is street worthy at the moment. I need to get it rolling.

I'm working on a list but it led me to some questions. I want to go with C5 brakes so I've confused myself on which spindles I can use. Can I use my stock ones? ATS spindles you said would work or can I use the C5 spindle? I'm tryin to see if I can do it one way for now, then get the ATS spindles later or just wait a little longer and buy the ATS.
I think it'll be easiest for me to go UCA/LCA stockers with Del's, find a used steering box and get some energy suspension bushings. With that I can make some calls and see about the shocks/springs.

Thanks again for your advice Vince on the setup. I'm hopin to have it on wheels before Sept. I do have access to a welder and ppl who weld. What is shipping to Canada these days?

[72camaross]

http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=26706

I would buy this if I knew I could put either every part on my car or put my shell on top of this... haha because it's everything I'm looking for and actually more.