Painless, Vintage Air, in 02 LS1 in a 65 GTO

[crustysack]

Electrical is not my strong point but I have a brain and am being meticulous but a couple things have come up. I have a 18 circuit Painless chassis harness and am running a vintage air ac/heat unit- the painless fuse box has a 30 amp fuse and corresponding wire for the ac/heater control -the vintage air is supplied with a wire with a 30 amp circuit breaker (their wording for I assume a fuse) that should be connected to the + terminal on the battery or starter solinoid- can I just connect the vintage wire to the wire from the fuse block? there is also a key on power source that is already hooked up. Has anyone run this setup before and what did you do- thanks.

[ProdigyCustoms]

NO. As instructed that wire and the ground wire MUST go to a direct battery source.

[crustysack]

so should I just clip the ac/heat wire from the fuse box and not use it?? the instructions are not specific about the ground wire going directly to the neg battery terminal- just shows the wire to ground- and it is not long like the positive one. Thanks for the advice and I have seen some of your cars they are SICK!!!!! If I win the lotto I would love to have you create something for me. But for now I'm building a dream car on a realism budget.

[ProdigyCustoms]

Here are some instructions and it shows that the hot and ground need to go direct to battery. We discussed this very subject at the Vintage Air dealer meeting last week. but this system is running on mili amps, if your ground is weak, the system looses part of a mili amp signal, which can cause havoc. Just ignore that wire in your fuze box.

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[TnBlkC230WZ]

The VA systems have an ignition and battery hot. They want to battery hot to go to the battery so that you get less electrical feedback to the sensitive electrical systems.

In theory you can power the battery feed with the 30 amp battery circuit in the Painless harness. However, you have to make sure you have condensors and/or one way diodes on the coil, altenators, cooling fans and and any other item that makes electrical noise.

The battery acts as a buffer to eliminate electrical noise; however, a lot of people also run things like cooling fans directly from the battery. The net effect is you can have some electrial noise at the battery.

I do run my VA system from my fuse panel, but it is a custom circuit panel. All electrical motors, ignition curcuit and accessory circuit are powered through relays. The relays have one-way diodes in them to ensure they turn off when they are suppose to turn off.

I will give you one example. My tach and speedo run on the same ignition hot electrial cirucit. Both are electronic with the tach connected to the coil negative post. The speedo sensor wire runs in the same harness as the tach wire. The coil signnal drives my speedo crazy at speeds below 25 MPH. Unhook the tach and the speedo works fine. So, I need to redesign my coil circuit with a condensor and diode. I've already put a ladder resistor on the speedometer ciruit. With the VA system, you won't see the effects of the electrical noise. The system just won't work correctly and you will not know why or you will get electrical spikes on it.

[crustysack]

Thank you gentlemen for the information and the reasoning to back it up, I believe I am running the previous version VA system. Thanks again and look for my next post shortly because I am sure theres gonna be something:cheers: