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    Results 1 to 9 of 9
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Posts
      25

      alternator questions for chevelle

      i'm not sure which style alternator to use?

      I can buy a 84 camaro 94amp 12SI at my work for 46$

      or i can get a 93 Camaro 140amp CS? for 79$

      Or a 92-96 C4 or camaro 120amp CS? for 64$

      The wiring of the CS alternators is throwing me off. talking about diodes and resistors? i have no idea.. and there talking about Installation of the diode, which must be used with MSD 6A boxes (i have the 6al) is there a simple diagram for this? lol

      I just have the old style External reg.. and i'm stalling a 500w amp for my stereo system and H4 headlight system with 70w low beams and either 100w or 130w high beams... So i'm going to need a alternator to keep up with the set up..

      And another thing.. Is it possible to " overload the system" by installing the 120 or 140amp alternator?

      Sorry for the stupid questions.. but i'm in the process of learning wiring as you can see lol..



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Location
      Houston, TX
      Posts
      232
      If you have plans to pull major amps at idle forget about the 12si and go straight for a cs144 alternator. The wiring for a CS is similar to the 12si, all that you need to do is get your harness to accept a 12si, then you buy a simple adapter harness which plugs into your 12si connector; the other side interfaces with the CS. You will also need to purchase a metric bolt which screws into the alternator ear; if I remember correctly it is a 10mm bolt, approx. 1.5" in length. Furthermore, you need to make sure that these alternators have ears that are 180 degrees apart.

      As far as resistors, the conversion harness will come in two versions: one with built in resistance and one without. If you use an LED as your charge indicator light, you will need a harness with built in resistance. If you use a standard bulb, it is not necessary.

      You will not overload the system.
      Who is wise? One who learns from every man... Who is strong? One who overpowers his inclinations... Who is rich? One who is satisfied with his lot... Who is honorable? One who honors his fellows" - Ben Zoma, Ethics of the Fathers, 4:1

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Feb 2007
      Location
      USA, TN
      Posts
      850
      X2 on the CS altenator. The only way to go. If you are still using your idiot light, it will be very easy. The resistors are only needed if you are not using your charge light. You will need a larger charging wire.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Feb 2009
      Location
      muggy midwest
      Posts
      533
      Country Flag: United States
      I do these GM swaps all the time-you can actually use a 6" diameter cased alternator such as the 140-amp you mentioned...the stock alternator bracket will accept it...just loosen the bracket bolt that secures it to the intake and loosen the one at the water pump....slide alt. in place, adjust belt tension, tighten alt. down-then tighten your two bolts. As for the wire harness, you can get a 3-wire CS style pigtail at any parts store-you loop the 10-ga. red lead back to the charge post or to a remote 12v junction if you plan to add one. On the new pigtail, the white wire gets spliced with your blue alt. wire and the black one from the pigtail is not used. Now, back at your external regulator, un-plug the 4-wire lead and from the harness side you need to splice the brown and the blue wires together, the orange and yellow wires get capped off. Now, run an 8 ga. charge lead to your battery and you are done. People will tell you that a HO alternator will burn up your factory wiring...not true-they want to sell you a fuse panel kit so of course they will tell you that and while it is a good idea, if your wiring is in good shape to begin with-no worries, your circuit will only draw as much power as they need to operate regardless of what kind of alternator you are running. However, once you start adding aftermarket components like a fan, electric fuel pump, etc. it is strongly suggested you run these through a fused, relay protected circuit in-dependant of the factory wiring save for maybe an IGN source which won't hurt anything anyhow. This is where a remote junction comes into play. But as far as a general conversion to a CS style alternator in an otherwise stock externally regulated system, the above illustration is how you do it. Factory gauges will dictate the need for a diode, otherwise it's plug and play. Imo, since I run most aftermarket components separate from the factory fuse block, unless there is some sort of damage to the panel itself, I never see the need to replace it. It's much cleaner to run an aux. fuse panel from a late model GM car and this way you can put it (ie hide it) wherever you want.
      "...if at first you don't succeed, try again.
      If you still don't succeed, then quit-no sense being a damn fool about it..."
      -W.C. Fields

      HARNESSWORX
      (formerly gmachinz)

    5. #5
      Join Date
      May 2005
      Location
      Fontana, CA
      Posts
      4,960
      Country Flag: United States
      Nick R.
      69 Camaro - 383, 700R4, 12 bolt 3.55, Hotchkis, Bilstein, Global West, Morris Classic
      08 HHR SS - Still Stock for now
      Do you still believe in all the things that you stood by before? Are you out there on the front lines, or at home keeping score?
      Do you care to be the layer of the bricks that seal your fate? Would you rather be the architect of what we might create?

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Southern Indiana
      Posts
      4,709
      Country Flag: United States
      I have a CSI 144/ slim line PM starter package for sbc/bbc with 14 " /168 tooth fly wheels.
      Waiting for starter to come in to nail down actual price but last bunch came with CSI 144 alternator, alt pigtail, small frame starter and starter bolts for $299. This is with GM alternator/starter but need to nail down prices again as the AC Delco plugs are way high but worth the cash, also can be ready for remote solenoid also.
      PM and Ill get back to you with prices by end of month if not sooner.
      Lee Abel
      AFTERMARKET PERFORMANCE

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Location
      Houston, TX
      Posts
      232
      Give National Quickstart a call if you are looking for a CS144, they will hook you up with a great price on a NEW cs144, with your pulley of choice so you don't even need to swap pulleys, and they can also supply you with the wiring harness adapter:

      http://www.alternatorparts.com/

      They're prices are great give em a call.
      Who is wise? One who learns from every man... Who is strong? One who overpowers his inclinations... Who is rich? One who is satisfied with his lot... Who is honorable? One who honors his fellows" - Ben Zoma, Ethics of the Fathers, 4:1

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Posts
      25
      Quote Originally Posted by kryptik View Post
      If you have plans to pull major amps at idle forget about the 12si and go straight for a cs144 alternator. The wiring for a CS is similar to the 12si, all that you need to do is get your harness to accept a 12si, then you buy a simple adapter harness which plugs into your 12si connector; the other side interfaces with the CS. You will also need to purchase a metric bolt which screws into the alternator ear; if I remember correctly it is a 10mm bolt, approx. 1.5" in length. Furthermore, you need to make sure that these alternators have ears that are 180 degrees apart.

      As far as resistors, the conversion harness will come in two versions: one with built in resistance and one without. If you use an LED as your charge indicator light, you will need a harness with built in resistance. If you use a standard bulb, it is not necessary.

      You will not overload the system.
      can u still use the conversion harness with the resister and the warning light at the same time?

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Feb 2007
      Location
      USA, TN
      Posts
      850
      Quote Originally Posted by chevelle327c5 View Post
      can u still use the conversion harness with the resister and the warning light at the same time?
      You need one of the other, but not both.




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