Relay box

[Takid455]

Tried finding an OE box that I could use w/ close success, but not what I was looking for. I decided to make my own. I plan to use 1/8" plastic/ thermo plastic and mold/ bend it to the configuration I desire. a basic rectangle w/ removable lid.
Before I do such, is there a place that has fuse/ relay housing pre made? I looked at an index card holder and while the size was close, it was rather flimsy.

I have 6 relays and the same amount of fuses. I would like room for 2 more of each.

[H2Ogbodies]

Take a look under the hoods of the LT1 4th gens...here's what I used for a 66 Chevelle drag car project-it houses plenty of room for relays, fuses, spares, IGN and HOT terminals, etc. Very compact and clean. I always source late model cars of every make for compact fuse panels-they aren't hard to find in a boneyard.

[Takid455]

thats looks exactly what I need. what years was that from? the lt1 4th gen was from 93-97. probably all the same.

[H2Ogbodies]

Yep...all years from 93-97 are the same. There are literally a ton of choices, this is just one of them. I have a lot of fuse panels from all sorts of vehicles...I espescially like the mini style fuse/relay panels...they are slick as well. I used this panel to power the fuel/nitrous solenoids, line loc, trans brake, aux. relay for fan over-ride, prim. and sec. fuel pumps, master arming, etc. Very handy.

[MCMLXIX]

http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=772

HL62943 Mini Relay Box, 4 Gang, Splashproof

Hella

HL62943 Mini Relay Box, 4 Gang, Splashproof
Can be dovetailed with HL62942 16 gang fuse box
Relays with brackets or fuses will not fit
Relays Not Included
$39.92

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[67 455 Bird ragtop]

Take a look under the hoods of the LT1 4th gens...here's what I used for a 66 Chevelle drag car project-it houses plenty of room for relays, fuses, spares, IGN and HOT terminals, etc. Very compact and clean. I always source late model cars of every make for compact fuse panels-they aren't hard to find in a boneyard.

I recently pick up one of these off a 93 Camaro at a local yard. I also grabbed the mount off the inner fender. $15 out the door!!!! Do you have a schematic for this box or know of one online somewhere? Too be honest I haven't had time to look yet. But if you can help out I'd appreciate it.

[TnBlkC230WZ]

Take a look under the hoods of the LT1 4th gens...here's what I used for a 66 Chevelle drag car project-it houses plenty of room for relays, fuses, spares, IGN and HOT terminals, etc. Very compact and clean. I always source late model cars of every make for compact fuse panels-they aren't hard to find in a boneyard.

The Delphi panels are very cool. It is all I use for wiring. Best of all, they have OEM reliability. Once you crip one of the connectors, you'll never go back to Amp or anthing else. You should be able to find all the terminals and part numbers to wire it up in the Delphi catalog. Most of them use ISO 280 relays which are easy to find too.

http://delphi.com/pdf/contact/brochures/DCS_GlobalCatalog.pdf

www.mouser.com (http://www.mouser.com) sells most of the parts.

[Takid455]

pickup a fuse box from a lt1 4th gen. thanks for the lead, just about exactly what I needed. I need to find a cover. The junk was hit in the front and might have had the cover inside which was full of stuff or on the ground covered in snow.

again, thanks for the lead.

what are the terminal #'s? typical 56 series terminals are a tad thinner. look like 630 metric pack and AF for the fuses??

[TnBlkC230WZ]

pickup a fuse box from a lt1 4th gen. thanks for the lead, just about exactly what I needed. I need to find a cover. The junk was hit in the front and might have had the cover inside which was full of stuff or on the ground covered in snow.

again, thanks for the lead.

what are the terminal #'s? typical 56 series terminals are a tad thinner. look like 630 metric pack and AF for the fuses??

Termals will either be 280 or 630 if you got if from a GM car. Do you have a pic? If it has maxi-fuses, it will use 800. The most common are 280 for relays and fuses. They are easy to measure. 2.8mm is 280 and 1/4 inch is 630. Check the link to the catalog I posted above. If it has 280 buss bars, you will need to know if they 15 mm or 16.2 mm. On the 280 terminals, you will also need to know if they are tanged or tangless.

[Takid455]

the relay ones are 1/4" and spec out to be 630 w/ tangs according to measurements on the drawings like these: delphi # -12052227, 12015865, 12015864. (PG 7.5). I found terminals for 18-16, 16-14 and 12 awg at mouser.

having trouble locating the fuse holders. mouser does not list the numbers in the delphi catalog 12131446 and 12131456. (PG 7.7) they are stated to be AF female terminals unsealed. any help to located some is appreciated. being this is soured from a Firebird, I'm assuming everything to be delphi, no? the picture provided in the delphi catalog and what I have appear to be similar.

[H2Ogbodies]

You know, a lot of times when I'm bored I just stroll through my local yards and check newer stuff out-I usually find a nice way the factory is integrating things like junctions, relay/fuse panels, etc. and whenever I see something I like, I incorporate the idea on every future project-whether it's for me or a customer. That Chevelle had a ton of stuff wiring wise-I basically built a harness on my wiring table and used prolly 25 different spools or wire just to put it all together. Then I tie in all the required circuits, test the harness outside of the car, then in it goes-then I cut/relabel as I go. I gave the customer a QuarkXPress document page layout showing the whole system. I have fun with wiring so for me it's no biggie but you gotta have a well thought out plan if you do your own wiring. This car has all the normal aftermarket doo-dads but a lot of stuff had aux. controls, over-rides AND had to have a total kill switch from either inside or outside of the vehicle AND I designed an anti-theft circuit for it too. My advice is to lay your plans all out on paper and make SURE they make sense on paper prior to pulling any wire. For example, with this guy-he wanted use his shifter button to both hit the nitrous off the line AND release the transbrake-I said I could do that but it may not be the best scenario...so after I went through the motions in air (literally!) and imagined what it would be like to leave the line hard with about 1000 HP at the tires with ONLY ONE HAND on the wheel while he released the 'brake, I strongly (but nicely) suggested we should think about safety and control and have the trans brake activate via the floor mounted dimmer switch...this way, you have both hands on the wheel and use the button on the shifter for the solenoids. So on paper the wiring all had to make sense. Once it all comes together, it's always great seeing it all work as intended with safety precautions planned in as well.

[TnBlkC230WZ]

having trouble locating the fuse holders. mouser does not list the numbers in the delphi catalog 12131446 and 12131456. (PG 7.7) they are stated to be AF female terminals unsealed. any help to located some is appreciated. being this is soured from a Firebird, I'm assuming everything to be delphi, no? the picture provided in the delphi catalog and what I have appear to be similar.

I believe the first part number should be 12131446. I searched my usually sources for them and nobody seams to stock them. There are a couple of options

1. Call Mouser and ask for a quote. They can get anything in the Delphi catalogs. The only down side is you have to purchase the quantity Delphi ships in. Sometimes it is 25 and sometimes it is 10,000. The quote is free, so I would ask.

2. Since you know what car it came out of, go to the Chevy dealer and see if you can order them

3. Here is the link to the technical drawing for the predessor part number. http://connectors2.delphi.com/dcsgdmcs/del/attachments/2D%20Drawings%20(PDF%20Format)/15339427.m001.tif.pdf. It looks like the same terminal sold in the Delphi's 4 terminal ATO fuse blocks kits. Painless sells them for a painful price. However, many autoparts stores sell them for about $5.

[astroracer]

I used a "Project Box" from Radio Shack to hide the relays for my trucks head and driving lights. I painted the box body color and it disappears on the fender.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/100_1188vi-1.jpg
These are less than 10 bucks and R.S. has a number of various sizes.
Mark S.

[garner67]

I used a stainless steel access panel from a plumbing supply company, which I mounted in my fender apron. Then, I fabricated a metal box that attaches to the panel.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[TnBlkC230WZ]

You could also use a NEMA 4X box. They can be submerged and sprayed directly with a hose. Some have cool clear covers. I used one for my fan controller

[sunkistcamaro]

I used a stainless steel access panel from a plumbing supply company, which I mounted in my fender apron. Then, I fabricated a metal box that attaches to the panel.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Very nice!

[Takid455]

called mouser and my local GM dealer w/o luck on the fuse terminals. any help in located some would be appreciated.

[TnBlkC230WZ]

The best thing to do is find a box you can get the terminals for.

Here is my setup. It is all new parts that are available at Mouser. There was only one part I couldn't get which hold two additional maxi-fuses. There are 10 relays and 26 fuses.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IMG_0216-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/IMG_0219-2.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/IMG_0231-1.jpg

[Takid455]

what terminals do you have for the regular atc fuses? looking at the minis, they look like what I have/ need. looks like they are mp 280 series? wonder if I can 'make' them fit in my box?

[Takid455]

here are the terminals I have currently from the OE fuse box.

[TnBlkC230WZ]

Those terminals are not 280s. The smaller fuses in my panel are ATM (mini fuses) and use 280 terminals. The bussbars are on 16.2mm centers.

The ISO 280 relays are all 30 amp and the external relays are 60 amp with 120 amp surge ratings.

Edit: Let me check my box of parts when I get home. I may have the part you are looking for.

[TnBlkC230WZ]

First, The terminals you have are not the AF terminals in the catalog. I do have one, but it is a cheap Chinese knock off. Painless Performance uses the genuine Delphi parts in their CirKit Boss 3 and 7 circuit panels. At least they do in the one I have.

[Takid455]

perhaps I should contact painless and see if that have what I need. If I dont have the AF terminals pictured, then what is it I have?

[TnBlkC230WZ]

I'm not sure what they are. I can't find a tech sheet on them. They are a buss bar terminal and the AF terminals are not a buss bar.

[Takid455]

after some leg work, found this place has them. like to see if I can find teh OE part # and save some coin.

link (4 bar)
http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/cPath/150/products_id/1052

one way
http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/cPath/150/products_id/1055

[TnBlkC230WZ]

OMFG. That price is aweful.

Now that I know the family of terminals, I was able to look them up in the Delphi search engine and get the part numbers. Mouser does carry them. Filter for delphi then filter for I, III, pack-con, etc. You will find them.

PCS Connectors also has them at half the price, but still a rip off.

The data sheet will show them as singles, but they come on a real so they should be connected. Before ordering make sure they are not sending singles. Also make sure you get the buss bar style. They are different.

Here is a link to the datasheet. It has the buss bar and non-buss bar listed as well as part numbers.
http://connectors2.delphi.com/dcsgdmcs/del/attachments/2D%20Drawings%20(PDF%20Format)/12004552_CUS01_S01.tif.pdf

[Takid455]

TnBlkC230WZ - BIG THANKS. :hail::hail: Thanks for helping me through this. Saved me a good bit of head scratching, fustration and coin. wound up using a combination of mouser, delphi and waytek catalogs to locate all the goodies. Seems there was some cross referencing #'s as some of the old #'s are obsolete. Purchased all through Mouser. Since I was greatly helped, I have decided to post my findings/ research in case it may help some else out in the future.

Terminals & Delphi #'s for the 93-97 f-body fuse/ relay box are as follows:
Pak-con III (fuses)
10-12 AWG 12020400 (single)
12020337 (reel)
14-16 AWG 12020321 (single)
12020338 (reel)
16-18 AWG 12020334

Metri pack 630 special (relays)
16-18 AWG 12015864
14-16 AWG 12015865
12 AWG 12052227


I ordered reel where desired and singles elsewhere. I guess we'll see in a few days if I did my homework correctly. thanks for the help again. you the man!!!!!!.:1st:

[TnBlkC230WZ]

Glad I was able to help. One last thought. I stopped ordering terminals for 18 gauge wire and just use the next larger size provided you are using GXL wire. For TXL wire, stay with the correct terminals. Makes it easier to deal with two sizes. If you order the reel, you can cut them for the singles.

[rb70383]

Back from the grave, Need a smilie digging up a grave. :)

I pickied up the under hood power center from a 95ish Caddy. It is like 4 different panels mounted on one bigger piece that bolts to the inner fender. I also picked up the relay box out of a 95 F body.

how can you tell which terminals I need? I havent tried to take them apart yet, but I want all new terminals so I can rewire with the gauge wire I want. I have the delphi cat downloaded and looking through it but wow there are a lot of different styles.

[67 455 Bird ragtop]

When using a relay/fuse box out of a factory car, like the 93 Camaro I found, is it better to run new wiring for each fuse/relay or just trace all the existing wires to the proper fuse/relay and use them ???

[Dr G]

I guess there are a lot of ways to do this, which is basically to build a power control unit (PCU) from scratch. When I was rewiring an 1988 M3 a while back I built a PCU which mounted on the transmission tunnel between the seats and contained all fuses, relays, circuit breakers and switches to controll all DC power for the car. I built it in the style of a mid to late 90's European racecar. Some pics here:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/baseofboxwinputoutput-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/breakerboxcoverconstruction3-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/breakerboxrear1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/PCUbasefinishedwiring1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/PCUbasefinishedwiring4L-1.jpg

I recall the Mil Spec relays in 12V style (vs. 24V) were very hard to source and very expensive, but very cool.

I'm doing sort of a similar thing on my 56 F100 now, though not as fancy.

If I had $3500 to spare I'd save myself a lot of trouble and get a MoTeC PDU from Apex Speed Technology:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/MotecPDU-1.jpg

Gustave

[armourmark]

Wow! Is that the wiring for the flux capacitor-which makes time-travel possible? lol

[TnBlkC230WZ]

Back from the grave, Need a smilie digging up a grave. :)

I pickied up the under hood power center from a 95ish Caddy. It is like 4 different panels mounted on one bigger piece that bolts to the inner fender. I also picked up the relay box out of a 95 F body.

how can you tell which terminals I need? I havent tried to take them apart yet, but I want all new terminals so I can rewire with the gauge wire I want. I have the delphi cat downloaded and looking through it but wow there are a lot of different styles.

The number of terminal styles is bewildering. It is really hard to tell what you have unless you have the part number for the panel. Then you can look it up on the Delphi search tool to the datasheet and get all the part numbers for the connectors.

[RS_Customs]

I guess there are a lot of ways to do this, which is basically to build a power control unit (PCU) from scratch. When I was rewiring an 1988 M3 a while back I built a PCU which mounted on the transmission tunnel between the seats and contained all fuses, relays, circuit breakers and switches to controll all DC power for the car. I built it in the style of a mid to late 90's European racecar. Some pics here:


I recall the Mil Spec relays in 12V style (vs. 24V) were very hard to source and very expensive, but very cool.

I'm doing sort of a similar thing on my 56 F100 now, though not as fancy.

If I had $3500 to spare I'd save myself a lot of trouble and get a MoTeC PDU from Apex Speed Technology:

Gustave

Very cool! Nice work.

That's some money in connectors alone. Wish I could find a more affordable mil spec connector that wasn't plastic.

Robert

[rb70383]

The number of terminal styles is bewildering. It is really hard to tell what you have unless you have the part number for the panel. Then you can look it up on the Delphi search tool to the datasheet and get all the part numbers for the connectors.

Is the part number on the panel? All the ones look like the modular style the Delphi has.

I went back to the yard and found something even better. Out of a mid 90's, wanna say 95 Le sabre. Mounted in the middle top of the fire wall. IIRC 16 maxifuses and 8 relays mounted underneath.

[rb70383]

Dr G.

That is some nice work. I am going to do my wire harness from scratch but nothing like that. Any more pix of it?

[Dr G]

Here are a few more pics.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/relaytraywwires1L-1.jpg

This shows the bottom side of the aircraft relay sockets. These use mil-spec wire sockets just like mil-spec connectors except that the pins are on the bottom of the relays. My records show I got Leach brand, and for these the part number was SO-1063-9033/9034.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/LeachJCRelaySocketL-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/relaytraybottom2XL-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/relaytray3-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/integratedrelaytray1L-1.jpg

I configured the PCU so that the relays sat above the cover, for easy replacement if needed. Also for cooling as they got fairly hot when energized.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/relays3-1.jpg

Here is a pic of the various circuit breakers, switches and relays I used. Circuit breakers were ETA and Klixon.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/allparts2-1.jpg

This is a cheat sheet I made to remind me what was what below the switch/breaker panel once everthing was covered:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/switchbreakerassignmentsXL-1.jpg

This is the mil spec bus bar I bought, and cut in two to use as two (actually three) seperate bus bars. You can buy these from Chief Aircraft.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/MSbusbarpartsunbagged-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/modifiedbusbar1-1.jpg

I'll scratch around to see what other pictures I have stored.

Gustave

[Dr G]

Dr G.

That is some nice work. I am going to do my wire harness from scratch but nothing like that. Any more pix of it?

Here are some additional pics of the M3 harness I built. In no particular order.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/firewallrtsidewiring1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/frontofengine1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/LHSFirewallConnectorsengineXL-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/PCUincar1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/PectelECU1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/sensorconnector1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/10/leftsideharness-1.jpg

Note that although this was a 4-cylinder 4-valve engine, it did have coil on plug and full sequential injection, requiring both a cam sensor and crank sensor, as well as throttle, MAP and Lambda.

Gustave

[rb70383]

thanks for the pics. Highly impressive. Do you make a schematic on paper first? Is this just the engine harness or for the whole car?

[rb70383]

TnBlkC230WZ - BIG THANKS. :hail::hail: Thanks for helping me through this. Saved me a good bit of head scratching, fustration and coin. wound up using a combination of mouser, delphi and waytek catalogs to locate all the goodies. Seems there was some cross referencing #'s as some of the old #'s are obsolete. Purchased all through Mouser. Since I was greatly helped, I have decided to post my findings/ research in case it may help some else out in the future.

Terminals & Delphi #'s for the 93-97 f-body fuse/ relay box are as follows:
Pak-con III (fuses)
10-12 AWG 12020400 (single)
12020337 (reel)
14-16 AWG 12020321 (single)
12020338 (reel)
16-18 AWG 12020334

Metri pack 630 special (relays)
16-18 AWG 12015864
14-16 AWG 12015865
12 AWG 12052227


I ordered reel where desired and singles elsewhere. I guess we'll see in a few days if I did my homework correctly. thanks for the help again. you the man!!!!!!.:1st:

Thanks. I have some of the same fuse/relay panels and this will help :) I know a long time ago, but did you get everything to work right?


Glad I was able to help. One last thought. I stopped ordering terminals for 18 gauge wire and just use the next larger size provided you are using GXL wire. For TXL wire, stay with the correct terminals. Makes it easier to deal with two sizes. If you order the reel, you can cut them for the singles.

Good idea on not needing a 18ga specific terminal. I have the before mentioned Fbody relay panel and also a panel with various panels on it from a 95ish caddy as well. It seems to use the 280 series of connectors as well. Takes a while to find out anything about these things. CAnt find any identifying marks/numbers on any of the panels I have. Makes it that much harder.

[TnBlkC230WZ]

The panels in the late 1990 to early 2000 GM trucks which are highly optioned are well documented in the Delphi catalog and easy to get parts for. It is located on the left side of the firewall under the hood. The base model trucks don't have it

[liquidh8]

Old thread, back from the dead. I have this same exact panel. The part numbers for the "reel", are a minimun or like 2000. wow, I need nowhere near this much, but would like to get the buss bars. Any tips?

Did yo uever finish your project with this?